Part 3

One last reminder: always wash your hands after having handled your captives. The skin secretions can be very irritating to the eyes.

Housing Your Captive Toad or Frog.

As with salamanders, the toads and frogs can be put into two categories: 1. Aquatic, and 2. Terrestrial (living on land). Both types of amphibians can be successfully kept in aquaria.

1. Aquatic and semi-aquatic toads and frogs. The truly aquatic toads and frogs that are often kept in captivity by amateur herpetologists are the South American Surinam toad, Pipa pipa, and the African clawed frog, Xenopus laevis. Both forms can be kept in a 10-gallon aquarium with gravel on the bottom, a few rocks, and some aquatic plants. A secure top should always cover the top of the aquarium. The water should be filtered, and a temperature of 70 to 78°F will do nicely for these species. The water level of the aquarium can be from 6 to 10 inches.

Many of the true frogs (genus Rana) can be kept in a semi-aquatic condition. That is, a few inches of water on one end of the aquarium, and some type of land area on the other end. In this way, the frog can either be in the water or out--whatever it wishes. One way to set up this situation would be to use a 10-gallon aquarium with a little gravel on the bottom, and a few large, flat rocks for the frogs to climb onto can be put in. A screen top must be put on the top to keep the frogs inside. If bullfrogs (Rana catesbeiana) are to be kept, a 15 or 20-gallon aquarium would be needed. With this set-up, the water should be changed at least twice per week. To give the amphibians a sense of security, the back and sides of the aquarium should be painted a dark brown or black (paint the outside glass). Try to avoid any bright lights over your toads' or frogs' aquarium.

2. Terrestrial and Arboreal Species. All of our native toads are adapted to life on land. In captivity they will do well if given a few inches of soil (1/3 black dirt, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 fine sand), a few pieces of bark to hide under, and a small, shallow water dish. A 5 or 10-gallon aquarium will do. The sides and back should be painted a dark brown or black, and a screen top will be needed to keep them inside. The soil mixture should be replaced every few weeks for proper sanitation. If the soil mixture becomes too wet, it should be replaced.

Besides most toads, the South American horned frog, Ceratophrys, the African burrowing frog, Pyxicephalus, and the spadefoot toads, Scaphippus, can be kept in this type vivarium. However, if you notice that the bottom of the toads' or frogs' hind feet are becoming raw from too much digging, it may be best to keep them on wet paper towels rather than on any soil.

Treefrogs.

A typical terrarium set-up will work very well for most treefrogs. But, even though you may have the most beautiful terrarium plants--the treefrogs will spend most of their time sticking to the upper corners of the aquarium. Besides plants, a few small branches and a shallow water dish are also required. Spraying the terrarium once-a-day will do the treefrogs and the plants some good.

The temperature for most treefrogs or terrestrial toads and frogs can range from 68 to 75°F. However, tropical species should not fall below 70°F.

Food and Feeding.

Becoming familiar with the natural history of your captive amphibian will help you determine what they can be fed. Giving your toad or frog a variety of live insects is a good practice. For the totally aquatic species; earthworms, minnows, goldfish, shrimp, and even small tadpoles, are all eaten by them. If these are not available, try small pieces of raw fish, liver, or beef. Toads and large frogs will eat mice--the size depending on the size of the toad or frog.

Feeding your animals by just dumping in a number of crickets, worms, or flies is a very poor management practice. For one thing, if you have several toads or frogs in one aquarium, the stronger, more alert animal will probably eat more than the others, and one or two will be under fed. Also, if you add live crickets to a well planted terrarium, many of the plants will be eaten by the crickets before they are eaten up themselves. It is thus strongly recommended that all your toads and frogs be fed by hand, using a thin wire or long pair of forceps. Place the cricket or worm on the end of the wire and move it in front of the amphibian. In this way you can be sure all are getting the proper amount of food, and this is also a good way to feed such things as liver or pieces of raw beef.

As a general rule, all your toads and frogs will do well if fed on a regular basis of 2 to 3 times per week. It is good practice to dust the worms or insects once a week with a calcium/phosphorus powder. This will supply your specimens with the much needed minerals.

Tadpoles.

It happens so often that people have seen tadpoles (Toad and frog larvae) in ponds or puddles while out in the country, and have taken them home--only to find out they have no idea how to care for them. The development of these amphibians can be a real learning experience for children, and with proper care, your tadpoles can mature to small toads or frogs.

Overcrowding and lack of proper food are two mistakes made most often by people who try to keep tadpoles. One half to one dozen is more than enough to try to keep. Put them in a shallow pan, with 1 to 3 inches of water in it. The larger the tadpoles, the deeper the water should be. Insert an air stone to keep the water in motion. No rocks or gravel are needed, but some live aquatic plants can be put in with them. KEEP THEM CLEAN. Never allow the water to stand dirty for more than a few hours. Be sure that the clean water is free from chlorine.

To feed your tadpoles, it is essential to give them a variety, and to furnish them with both plant and animal foods. Their staple diet could be boiled lettuce, rabbit chow, and cooked liver. Give them small amounts of food at one time. You can feed them 3 or 4 times a day. When you see the water is becoming dirty--change it. You may want to try and feed them a tropical fish food called "molly flake food"; or you might try some hard boiled egg. Keep the water temperature at 70 to 72°F.

Once the tadpoles begin to lose their tails, grow front legs, and take in air at the surface, they are beginning to turn into a toad or frog. At this stage, they should not be disturbed. When they no longer have any tail, and stay out of the water, they can be fed a variety of small insects, or small pieces of earthworms.

T.R.J.

TURTLES AND TORTOISES (order Chelonia)

Overview:

Large numbers of hatchling and adult turtles are sold or traded each year in the United States. Unfortunately, from the point of view of the turtles themselves, the majority of them are condemned to death by unintentional maltreatment and few manage to survive a year. The species most often abused is the red-eared slider, Chrysemys scripta elegans. Next most common are the map turtles, Graptemy, and third in abundance are the painted turtles, Chrysemys picta. All are water turtles and require much the same care in captivity. Since the red-eared slider is the most common of all, the general account that follows is based upon the slider group of turtles. This is the largest group of native turtles, including some 16 different kinds. All live in ponds and lakes, and may be given about the same care in captivity. Comparisons with other groups follow the general account, save the tortoises, or dry land turtles, which will be discussed in more detail after the aquatic turtle account.

Aquatic Species:

Description and diet: Water turtles, such as the red-eared slider, vary in color and usually have webbed feet for swimming. These turtles are generally carnivorous (meat eaters), and their primary diet consists of chopped raw beef, horsemeat, fish, worms, and also aquatic greens. Some water turtles will eat bits of green leafy vegetables, such as fresh greens, lettuce, endive, and spinach. All turtles are different, however, and a variety of foods should be offered to determine their likes and dislikes. Food supplements should also be used. Some of these are: cod liver oil, liquid multiple vitamins, and powdered calcium or bone meal. These may be added directly to their food.

Box, wood, and Muhlenberg's turtles or other semi-aquatic species do well in captivity when a basin of shallow water is provided for soaking. Diamondbacks need brackish or slightly salty water. These also generally eat vegetable matter as well as meat.

All weather care: As these turtles are generally kept indoors, an aquarium is the best means of maintaining them. Temperatures may be controlled by the use of a heater, thermostat, and thermometer. The best temperature will range between 72 to 85° F. A filter and pump may be used to keep the water clean. It is advisable to feed the turtles in a separate container, as foods foul the water quickly.

The aquarium and accessories should be kept clean and scrubbed periodically. Water turtles may be kept out of water for some time, if necessary, with no ill effects. However, they cannot eat out of the water. These turtles must also have sunlight in order to grow and maintain a hard shell and sound bones. They should be allowed to sun at least twice a week ... always with a shade of some type over a portion of the container, so they will not become over-heated.