Part 4

The aquarium itself should be arranged so that the turtles can leave the water at will and dry themselves periodically. A cluster of smooth, flat rocks in the middle, or at one end of the aquarium will permit them to do so.

Dry Land Species:

Description and diet: Tortoise is the term generally used in referring to dry land turtles. They seldom swim or enter the water. Carapace and plastron (upper and lower shell) range from light tan to dark brown in color; The skin is rough appearing and the legs are scaled and elephant-like, with no webbing of the feet. Food consists of vegetables, fruits, grass cuttings, dandelions, petals from various garden flowers, bits of raw meat that is finely chopped, and canned dog food. Foods such as carrots, string beans, and corn are valuable in the diet, and should be ground or scraped. Many of the tortoises are fond of earthworms, so these should also be offered. Food supplements, such as cod liver oil, liquid multiple vitamins, powdered calcium, and bone meal, should also be added to foods periodically. Box, wood, and Muhlenberg's turtles (as well as other semi-aquatic species) will do well in captivity if a shallow water dish is provided. These species will generally eat meat as well as vegetable matter.

Cold weather care: In the fall, around late October or early November, your tortoise will want to hibernate. It will probably dig its own burrow out of doors, given it is in the correct environment. If the conditions outside are not proper for your tortoise to burrow, he may be placed in a box in a cool, dry area where a constant temperature can be maintained, such as a garage. Cover him with a layer or two of old, shredded newspapers. He is now ready to be "stored" for the winter. If your tortoise is to spend the winter in the house, be sure to keep food and water available. House temperatures do not permit a tortoise to hibernate properly, and starvation is possible if he is not allowed to eat when he stirs about during the winter.

Hot weather care: Hibernation ends some time in spring, usually in March. The tortoise may be a little sluggish at first, but as the weather becomes warmer, interest and appetite improve. Water, food, and shelter from the sun must always be available, and a night shelter is advised.

Illness and treatments: Most turtle owners are familiar with the basic care requirements of their pets; however, there are a few common ailments that may require prompt treatment. The simple remedies here have been found to be successful in many cases.

Respiratory ailments: Turtles and tortoises are usually susceptible to colds and pneumonia. Bubbling of the nose and mouth and "gasping" are symptoms of this. Isolation from the other turtles in a heated box or aquarium is mandatory. A heat lamp may be used several times a day--but always with a shaded corner into which the turtle can crawl when he gets too hot. Cold-remedy salves can also be rubbed on the turtle's nose to help relieve congestion. The turtle should be kept warm and isolated until all traces of his cold have disappeared. (Injection of an anti-biotic serum into the leg or forelimb, once a day, is sometimes successful, as well as anti-biotic pills given orally; but consult a veterinarian or Society member before attempting this as some drugs are dangerous for turtles.) If caught in its early stages pneumonia can be overcome. The turtle in question should be isolated and kept warm, and the following medicine should be administered with an eye dropper: Dissolve together

½ ounce of water 1 tablet Chlortetracycline 4-5 drops liquid vitamins

Administer daily for two days and then skip a day. Repeat. This formula has proven itself quite effective after 5 or 6 days.

Cracked shell: Immediately place injured turtle in a clean, paper towel-lined box, and bring indoors so that ants and flies will not torment him. If shell is bleeding, gently wash it with a mild solution of boric acid and pat dry. This may have to be done several times before bleeding stops. Put his box in a warm, quiet spot in the house, and leave him completely alone except for offering a shallow bowl of drinking water from time to time. If he survives the first 24 hours, he will probably pull through. (The lungs are under the carapace, and if the broken shell has penetrated the lung area, there is practically nothing that can be done for the turtle.) If the wound is bad or jagged, it may be filled with Canadian Balsam--after bleeding has stopped and then securely tape with electrician's tape. The tape may be left on for several months if necessary, but it should be checked every six weeks or so, to make sure infection has not set in. Once the turtle has started eating and resumed his normal routine, he is probably well on the road to recovery.

Soft shell, and swollen eyes: This is almost always due to an improper diet and lack of direct sunlight. Add vitamins and ground bone meal to the food; offer raw, lean chopped meat; and see that the turtle is placed in direct sunlight for several hours each day. (When turtles are placed in direct sun, they must have a shaded area into which they can retreat when the temperature goes too high.) Swollen eyes may also be bathed in a dilute solution of boric acid to alleviate swelling and puffiness.

Fungus: This appears as white spots, lumps, or flakes on the skin or shell. Addition of plain table salt to the aquarium water will often cure the condition. Fungus on the shell may be helped by painting the area with 5% iodine or 2% gentian violet solution. Always keep the turtle out of the water for a period of 2 to 4 hours after applying either iodine or gentian violet, so as not to wash the medication from the shell or skin. If the fungus continues after several treatments, allow a week or so before experimenting with another medication, as many times the combination of medications can be detrimental to the turtle.

Parasites: Parasites may be suspected if the turtle suffers a great loss of weight or a loss of appetite without apparent cause, or if he has a ravenous appetite. Parasites may be evident in the stools, but are not always readily seen. If suspected, have a veterinarian diagnose and treat this condition. In addition, shots of vitamins can be administered periodically for maintaining good health. If, however, the turtle is on the proper diet, shots such as these may not be needed.

Conclusion:

Many different kinds of turtles make satisfactory additions for your collection. Actually, every one of our native turtles, at least when small in size, can be acceptable. Larger examples of some species, however, are sometimes unpleasant and even positively dangerous as members of your collection. Below is a list of those turtles that should be avoided by the amateur herpetologist:

Adults: Common Snapping Turtles Alligator Snapping Turtle Soft-shelled Turtles Very Large Sliders Musk Turtles Mud Turtles

The larger species, or large adults of some species, tend to become aggressive and dangerous as they grow older, and many times a finger is mistaken for a morsel of food. Avoid the aforementioned turtles if your interest in these hard-shelled friends is new.

These are some turtles, of course, that can be handled without fear of biting or scratching. Any of the smaller species of sliders can make acceptable additions to your collection. Below is a list of those turtles that are, and may be handled and studied by the amateur:

Young: Common Snapping Turtle Soft-shelled Turtles Sliders Musk Turtles Mud Turtles Diamond Back Terrapin

Although young turtles make safe additions to your collection, land turtles of all kinds are best, seldom if ever bite, feed readily, and survive a long time in captivity. They include: Eastern, Florida, Three-toed, and Ornate Box Turtles, and the Red-Foot Tortoise. None of these are commonly available from commercial dealers, however.

D.J.C.

LIZARDS (order Squamata) (suborder Lacertilia)

Keeping lizards as "pets" can be a very challenging task, because, it has been found that many species will not thrive in captivity.

When looking for a lizard to buy or catch, keep in mind some of the basic requirements the animal should have while you are choosing a lizard. The lizard should be alert and active. Check its mouth for signs of sores, bad teeth or gums, or other indications of mouth rot. Check the eyes for discharges, make sure the eyes are not sunken into the head. Observe it walking to insure that there is no damage to the limbs. Do not accept a lizard that has a discharge from the nose, this could be a symptom of a respiratory infection.

Lizards vary a great deal in their dietary requirements, therefore, it is very important that you are very sure of the animal's identification before you purchase or collect it. You cannot always rely on the pet store dealer for an accurate identification. If the lizard is one that you have caught, then you can refer to a field guide for a positive identification.

Some lizards are strictly insect eaters, others eat only fruits and vegetables, some will only eat meat, a few lizards will only eat eggs, and then there are some that will eat nearly anything. Most insectivores will only eat live insects. If it is hard to get live insects, you may be able to get the lizard to accept dead food by offering it on the end of a thin wire. By moving the insect, the lizard will think it is alive, and often will grasp the food. Insectivores require a large amount of food, and the food should be varied: don't feed all meal worms, or all crickets, but try to offer a variety of insects.

The vegetarians or herbivores need to be fed a mixed variety of fruits and vegetables. Often, color will induce a lizard to eat, so always include some apple or tomato to the diet if the lizard doesn't seem interested in food. The meat eaters are often the easiest to induce to eat. Canned dog food is usually used as a basic, but whole mice are much more of a balanced diet. Sometimes it is necessary to skin the mouse in order to get the lizard to eat it. Whatever dietary requirements your lizards have, their food should be supplemented with a vitamin and mineral powder. Steamed bone meal is often used. Just sprinkle a small amount on the food, and then mix it in so the lizards will take it in with their food.

Although the size of the cage is usually not critical for lizards, cage props may be essential in order to insure that the animal thrives. If the lizard is a burrower in the wild then it is often necessary that it be able to burrow in captivity. If the animal is normally arboreal, Then you must have a branch for it to climb on. Because of this, it is most important that you know what species of lizard you have; then learn as much as possible about its habits and habitat.