Amphibians and Reptiles in Captivity

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AMPHIBIANS AND REPTILES IN CAPTIVITY

Tom R. Johnson Robert N. Bader Donald J. Coxwell

SPECIAL ISSUE NUMBER 2 SEPTEMBER 1975

Cover design, booklet format, and photographs by Tom R. Johnson

EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE ST. LOUIS HERPETOLOGICAL SOCIETY

Tom R. Johnson, President 2820 Oakland Ave. St. Louis, Mo. 63143

Craig Petefish, Vice-President 11220 Hi-Tower St. Ann, Mo. 63074

Diane M. Johnson, Sec.-Treas. 2820 Oakland Ave. St. Louis, Mo. 63143

Donald J. Coxwell, Editor 11908 San Remo St. Louis, Mo. 63138

CONTENTS

Introduction iii Salamanders 1 Toads and Frogs 6 Turtles and Tortoises 13 Lizards 20 Snakes 25 Bibliography 35

INTRODUCTION

In recent years the number of people interested in keeping amphibians and reptiles in captivity has grown rapidly. All too often, these same people have little knowledge of the proper care needed for their captives, nor do they know where to turn in order to learn the needs of their animals.

Pet stores generally do not have the expertise to give out proper information on the identification and care of amphibians or reptiles. The booklets they sell on the subject are too general and too vague.

It is the intent of the authors of this special issue to offer the proper information needed to successfully keep amphibians and reptiles in captivity. We are by no means THE experts on the subject, nor do we claim to cover all the facts. However, we do hope that enough information is furnished to answer most of the common questions asked by people.

The bibliography has a list of books which go into more detail on amphibians and reptiles: their identification, and natural history, range, and care in captivity. Room did not permit the inclusion of amphibian diseases--thus, the bibliography will be of help there.

Due to the decline in the majority of crocodilians in the world, the authors do not condone their being kept in captivity by amateur herpetologists. We also contend that venomous reptiles, as well, do not belong in a private collection.

Acknowledgments.

A note of thanks goes to the authors listed in the bibliography; for, without their works, this special issue would have been extremely difficult.

Tom R. Johnson Robert N. Bader Donald J. Coxwell

SALAMANDERS (Order Caudata)

Background.

Salamanders have been on earth a very long time; as a matter of fact, the first land vertebrate animal was a type of salamander that evolved from air-breathing fresh water fish--around 300 million years ago (late Devonian period). Today, they range in size from a few inches to over five feet long (the giant salamander of China and Japan reach nearly 5 feet in length).

Salamanders require a moist environment of various degrees--from slightly moist (as with a newt eft stage), to a completely aquatic existence (as with the mudpuppy, hellbender, or adult newt). Nearly all salamanders require water for breeding and egg laying, but there are some varieties which lay their eggs on land, under logs or in leaf litter.

There are approximately 280 species of salamanders in the world--North America, Europe, and Asia sharing the majority of species. Missouri is the home of some two dozen species and subspecies.

Selection of Species to be Kept.

It would be erroneous to say that all species of salamanders can be successfully kept in captivity, because, as with other groups of animals, there are types which are hardy in captivity, and there are types which are extremely delicate. It is recommended that only the more hardy species be considered for keeping in the home.

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As far as local species are concerned, the various mole salamanders (genus Ambystoma: the tiger, spotted, and small-mouthed salamanders) seem to do well in captivity. They may live a long time (up to 10 or 12 years for some). They are large (hence, will eat food that is more available), and they do not require a special temperature range.

The central newt, Notophthalmus v. louisianensis, which is locally common, or the red-spotted newt, N. v. viridescens, which is sold in pet stores, are rather hardy, if kept properly. The mudpuppy and hellbender may do well, but they require considerably more space, and should be given a few flat rocks to hide under.

The smaller salamanders of Missouri are on the whole delicate and require cool temperatures. The best one to try to keep for a while in captivity is the slimy salamander, Plethodon g. glutinosus. The rest of the smaller salamanders (genus Plethodon and Eurycea) are usually difficult to maintain. If you do secure some of these, it is recommended that they be kept a short time for observation, and then released in the same area where they were taken.

Remember: several species of Missouri salamanders are protected by the Missouri Conservation Department. If you plan to collect your own specimens, be sure to follow all laws of the Conservation Dept. No animal can be collected in a state or national park, or taken from any cave.

Housing Your Captive Salamanders.

1. Terrestrial (land) species. The first consideration for keeping terrestrial forms is proper moisture. The home terrarium with deep soil and rooted plants is very good for many salamanders, but it affords too many hiding places, and you may never see your specimens.

A 1 to 2 inch layer of soil (1/3 black dirt, 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 fine sand) works very well for most land salamanders (mole salamanders, slimy salamanders, and the California newt). A few flat rocks or slabs of bark, or some dead leaves will furnish hiding places, and a small, shallow water dish should be provided. A 5- or 10-gallon aquarium would be about the right size for keeping several salamanders. Painting the sides and back with black or dark brown paint will furnish them with added security. Never crowd too many salamanders into a small aquarium. In the wild you seldom see more than one or two individuals in any one hiding place.

The soil mixture should be changed every 2 to 3 weeks, because it will tend to sour from your captive's excrement.

As far as lighting your vivarium, it is not necessary for the salamanders. They are all nocturnal, and shy away from any direct light. Thus, too much light can be harmful, and can also cause the vivarium to heat up. The proper temperature for most land living salamanders is from 65 to 72°F.

Whatever size aquarium you intend to use to house your salamander, be very sure it has a tight screen lid. An all glass lid should not be used because it prevents circulation of air, and allows the humidity to build up to nearly 100%. The soil mixture on the bottom of the vivarium should be slightly damp, not wet or soggy. For best results--a gradient of moisture from nearly dry to damp will furnish your salamanders with an environment in which they can choose their own "dampness".

2. Aquatic Species. Aquatic salamanders do well in an aquarium with a thin layer of gravel on the bottom, a few rocks, and a few plants. Once again, a 5- or 10-gallon aquarium would be the right size--but be sure that the top is tight--aquatic salamanders can also climb out. The water should be changed as often as necessary to keep it clear and odor free. Use spring water or aged tap water to insure that they are not exposed to any chlorine. The use of an aquarium filter will help keep the salamanders clean.

The water temperature should be kept at between 65 to 72°F. If you wish to illuminate the aquarium, use a fluorescent lamp, not an incandescent lamp. Never expose your salamanders to long periods of light, or very harsh light.

Food and Feeding.

The universal food item that can be fed to most of the salamanders discussed above is the earthworm. Worms are the natural food for many of them, they can be stored alive, they can be collected easily, or purchased at a bait shop. They supply most of the nutritional needs for salamanders, and they come in various sizes. For large salamanders the worms can be fed to them whole. Or for smaller species the worms can be chopped into small pieces and offered to the salamander on the end of a thin wire. Of course, insects of all sorts can be offered to salamanders. You can collect them yourself or purchase crickets or meal worms at a bait shop or pet shop. You may even try feeding small pieces of liver, beef, or even canned dog food, as well as small strips of raw fish. Salamanders, like other amphibians, will do well if fed three times per week. Dusting the food with calcium/phosphorus powder will help to keep your specimens healthy. Salamanders feed on live, moving animals, thus they usually eat best if stimulated by movement. The food can be held with long forceps or on a thin wire, and waved in front of the salamander. Food not eaten should be removed at once.

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