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Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas, Recipes and Processes · Gardner Dexter Hiscox — chapter 333 of 563 · ~868 words · public domain

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Narcissus.—

Caryophyllin 10 minims Extract of tuberose 16 ounces Extract of jasmine 4 ounces Oil of neroli 20 minims Oil of ylang-ylang 20 minims Oil of clove 5 minims Glycerine 30 minims

{518}

Almond Blossom.—

Extract of heliotrope 30 parts Extract of orange flower 10 parts Extract of jasmine 10 parts Extract of rose 3 parts Oil of lemon 1 part Spirit of bitter almond, 10 per cent 6 parts Deodorized alcohol 40 parts

Artificial Violet.—Ionone is an artificial perfume which smells exactly like fresh violets, and is therefore an extremely important product. Although before it was discovered compositions were known which gave fair imitations of the violet perfume, they were wanting in the characteristic tang which distinguishes all violet preparations. Ionone has even the curious property possessed by violets of losing its scent occasionally for a short time. It occasionally happens that an observer, on taking the stopper out of a bottle of ionone, perceives no special odor, but a few seconds after the stopper has been put back in the bottle, the whole room begins to smell of fresh violets. It seems to be a question of dilution. It is impossible, however, to make a usable extract by mere dilution of a 10 per cent solution of ionone.

It is advisable to make these preparations in somewhat large quantities, say 30 to 50 pounds at a time. This enables them to be stocked for some time, whereby they improve greatly. When all the ingredients are mixed, 10 days or a fortnight, with frequent shakings, should elapse before filtration. The filtered product must be kept in well-filled and well-corked bottles in a dry, dark, cool place, such as a well-ventilated cellar. After 5 or 6 weeks the preparation is ready for use.

Quadruple Extract.—

By weight Jasmine extract, 1st pomade 100 parts Rose extract, 1st pomade 100 parts Cassia extract, 1st pomade 200 parts Violet extract, 1st pomade 200 parts Oil of geranium, Spanish 2 parts Solution of vanillin, 10 per cent 10 parts Solution of orris, 10 per cent 100 parts Solution of ionone, 10 per cent 20 parts Infusion of musk 10 parts Infusion of orris from coarsely ground root 260 parts

Triple Extract.—

By weight Cassia extract, 2d pomade 100 parts Violet extract, 2d pomade 300 parts Jasmine extract, 2d pomade 100 parts Rose extract, 2d pomade 100 parts Oil of geranium, African 1 part Ionone, 10 per cent 15 parts Solution of vanillin, 10 per cent 5 parts Infusion of orris from coarse ground root 270 parts Infusion of musk 10 parts

Double Extract.—

By weight Cassia extract, 2d pomade 100 parts Violet extract, 2d pomade 150 parts Jasmine extract, 2d pomade 100 parts Rose extract, 2d pomade 100 parts Oil of geranium, reunion 2 parts Ionone, 10 per cent 10 parts Solution of vanillin, 10 per cent 10 parts Infusion of ambrette 20 parts Infusion of orris from coarse ground root 300 parts Spirit 210 parts

White Rose.—

Rose oil 25 minims Rose geranium oil 20 minims Patchouli oil 5 minims Ionone 3 minims Jasmine oil (synthetic) 5 minims Alcohol 10 ounces

Ylang-Ylang Perfume.—

I.—Ylang-ylang oil 10 minims Neroli oil 5 minims Rose oil 5 minims Bergamot oil 3 minims Alcohol 10 ounces

One grain of musk may be added.

II.—Extract of cassie (2d) 96 ounces Extract of jasmine (2d) 24 ounces {519} Extract of rose 24 ounces Tincture of orris 4 ounces Oil of ylang-ylang 6 drachms Glycerine 6 ounces

TOILET WATERS.

Toilet waters proper are perfumed liquids designed more especially as refreshing applications to the person—accessories to the bath and to the operations of the barber. They are used sparingly on the handkerchief also, but should not be of so persistent a character as the “extracts” commonly used for that purpose, as they would then be unsuitable as lotions.

Ammonia Water.—Fill a 6-ounce ground glass stoppered bottle with a rather wide mouth with pieces of ammonium carbonate as large as a marble, then drop in the following essential oils:

Oil of lavender 30 drops Oil of bergamot 30 drops Oil of rose 10 drops Oil of cinnamon 10 drops Oil of clove 10 drops

Finally fill the bottle with stronger water of ammonia, put in the stopper and let stand overnight.

Birch-Bud Water.—Alcohol (96 per cent), 350 parts; water, 70 parts; soft soap, 20 parts; glycerine, 15 parts; essential oil of birch buds, 5 parts; essence of spring flowers, 10 parts; chlorophyll, quantity sufficient to tint. Mix the water with an equal volume of spirit and dissolve the soap in the mixture. Mix the oil and other ingredients with the remainder of the spirit, add the soap solution gradually, agitate well, allow to stand for 8 days and filter. For use, dilute with an equal volume of water.

Carmelite Balm Water.—

Melissa oil 30 minims Sweet marjoram oil 3 minims Cinnamon oil 10 minims Angelica oil 3 minims Citron oil 30 minims Clove oil 15 minims Coriander oil 5 minims Nutmeg oil 5 minims Alcohol (90 per cent) 10 fluidounces

Angelica oil is obtained principally from the aromatic root of Angelica archangelica, L. (N. O. Umbelliferæ), which is commonly cultivated for the sake of the volatile oil which it yields.

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