Part 176

«Aniline Black.»—Water, 20 to 30 parts; chlorate of potassa, 1 part; sal ammoniac, 1 part; chloride of copper, 1 part; aniline and hydrochloric acid, each 1 part, previously mixed together. It is essential that the preparation should be acid, and the more acid it is the more rapid will be the production of the blacks; if too much so, it may injure the fabric. The fabric or yarn is dried in ageing rooms at a low temperature for 24 hours, and washed afterwards.

«Black on Cotton.»—For 40 pounds goods, use sumac, 30 pounds; boil 3⁠/⁠4 of an hour; let the goods steep overnight, and immerse them in limewater, 40 minutes, remove, and allow them to drip 3⁠/⁠4 of an hour; add copperas, 4 pounds, to the sumac liquor, and dip 1 hour more; next work them through limewater for 20 minutes; then make a new dye of logwood, 20 pounds, boil 2 1⁠/⁠2 hours, and enter the goods 3 hours; then add bichromate of potash, 1 pound, to the new dye, and dip 1 hour more. Work in clean cold water and dry out of the sun.

«Black Straw Hat Varnish.»—Best alcohol, 4 ounces; pulverized black sealing wax, 1 ounce. Place in a phial, and put the phial into a warm place, stirring or shaking occasionally until the wax is dissolved. Apply it when warm before the fire or in the sun. This makes a beautiful gloss. {267}

«Chrome Black for Wool.»—For 40 pounds of goods, use blue vitriol, 3 pounds; boil a short time, then dip the wool or fabric 3⁠/⁠4 of an hour, airing frequently. Take out the goods, and make a dye with logwood, 24 pounds; boil 1⁠/⁠2 hour, dip 3⁠/⁠4 of an hour, air the goods, and dip 1⁠/⁠4 of an hour longer; then wash in strong soapsuds. A good fast color.

«Black Dye on Wool, for Mixtures.»—For 50 pounds of wool, take bichromate of potash, 1 pound, 4 ounces; ground argal, 15 ounces; boil together and put in the fabric, stirring well, and let it remain in the dye 5 hours. Take it out, rinse slightly in clean water, then make a new dye, into which put logwood, 1 1⁠/⁠2 pounds. Boil 1 1⁠/⁠4 hours, adding chamber lye, 5 pints. Let the fabric remain in all night, and wash out in clean water.

«Bismarck Brown.»—Mix together 1 pound Bismarck, 5 gallons water, and 3⁠/⁠4 pound sulphuric acid. This paste dissolves easily in hot water and may be used directly for dyeing. A liquid dye may be prepared by making the bulk of the above mixture to 2 gallons with alcohol. To dye, sour with sulphuric acid; add a quantity of sulphate of soda, immerse the wool, and add the color by small portions, keeping the temperature under 212° F. Very interesting shades may be developed by combining the color with indigo paste or picric acid.

«Chestnut Brown for Straw Bonnets.»—For 25 hats, use ground sanders, 1 1⁠/⁠2 pounds; ground curcuma, 2 pounds; powdered gallnuts or sumac, 3⁠/⁠4 pound; rasped logwood, 1⁠/⁠10 pound. Boil together with the hats in a large kettle (so as not to crowd), for 2 hours, then withdraw the hats, rinse, and let them remain overnight in a bath of nitrate of 4° Bé., when they are washed. A darker brown may be obtained by increasing the quantity of sanders. To give the hats the desired luster, they are brushed with a brush of couchgrass, when dry.

«Cinnamon or Brown for Cotton and Silk.»—Give the goods as much color, from a solution of blue vitriol, 2 ounces, to water, 1 gallon, as they will take up in dipping 15 minutes; then turn them through limewater. This will make a beautiful sky blue of much durability. The fabric should next be run through a solution of prussiate of potash, 1 ounce, to water, 1 gallon.

«Brown Dye for Cotton or Linen.»—Give the pieces a mixed mordant of acetate of alumina and acetate of iron, and then dye them in a bath of madder, or madder and fustic. When the acetate of alumina predominates, the dye has an amaranth tint. A cinnamon tint is obtained by first giving a mordant of alum, next a madder bath, then a bath of fustic, to which a little green copperas has been added.

«Brown for Silk.»—Dissolve annatto, 1 pound; pearlash, 4 pounds, in boiling water, and pass the silk through it for 2 hours; then take it out, squeeze well, and dry. Next give it a mordant of alum, and pass through a bath of brazil wood, and afterwards through a bath of logwood, to which a little green copperas has been added; wring it out and dry; afterwards rinse well.

«Brown Dye for Wool.»—This may be induced by a decoction of oak bark, with variety of shade according to the quantity employed. If the goods be first passed through a mordant of alum the color will be brightened.

«Brown for Cotton.»—Catechu or terra japonica gives cotton a brown color; blue vitriol turns it to the bronze; green copperas darkens it, when applied as a mordant and the stuff is boiled in the bath. Acetate of alumina as a mordant brightens it. The French color Carmelite is given with catechu, 1 pound; verdigris, 4 ounces; and sal ammoniac, 5 ounces.

«Dark Snuff Brown for Wool.»—For 50 pounds of goods, take camwood, 10 pounds, boil for 20 minutes, then dip the goods for 3⁠/⁠4 of an hour; take them out, and add to the dye, fustic, 25 pounds, boil 12 minutes, and dip the goods 3⁠/⁠4 of an hour; then add blue vitriol, 10 ounces, copperas, 2 pounds, 8 ounces; dip again 40 minutes. Add more copperas if the shade is required darker.

«Brown for Wool and Silk.»—Infusion or decoction of walnut peels dyes wool and silk a brown color, which is brightened by alum. Horse-chestnut peels also impart a brown color; a mordant of muriate of tin turns it on the bronze, and sugar of lead the reddish brown.

«Alkali Blue and Nicholson’s Blue.»—Dissolve 1 pound of the dye in 10 gallons boiling water, and add this by small portions to the dye bath, which should be rendered alkaline by borax. The fabric should be well worked about between each addition of the color. The temperature must be kept under 212° F. To develop the color, wash with water {268} and pass through a bath containing sulphuric acid.

«Aniline Blue.»—To 100 pounds of fabric, dissolve 1 1⁠/⁠4 pounds aniline blue in 3 quarts hot alcohol, strain through a filter, and add it to a bath of 130° F.; also 10 pounds Glauber’s salts, and 5 pounds acetic acid. Immerse the goods and handle them well for 20 minutes. Next heat slowly to 200° F.; then add 5 pounds sulphuric acid diluted with water. Let the whole boil 20 minutes longer; then rinse and dry. If the aniline be added in 2 or 3 proportions during the process of coloring, it will facilitate the evenness of the color.

«Blue on Cotton.»—For 40 pounds of goods, use copperas, 2 pounds; boil and dip 20 minutes; dip in soapsuds, and return to the dye 3 or 4 times; then make a new bath with prussiate of potash, 1⁠/⁠2 pound; oil of vitriol, 1 1⁠/⁠4 pints; boil 1⁠/⁠2 hour, rinse out and dry.

«Sky Blue on Cotton.»—For 60 pounds of goods, blue vitriol, 5 pounds. Boil a short time, then enter the goods, dip 3 hours, and transfer to a bath of strong limewater. A fine brown color will be imparted to the goods if they are then put through a solution of prussiate of potash.

«Blue Dye for Hosiery.»—One hundred pounds of wool are colored with 4 pounds Guatemala or 3 pounds Bengal indigo, in the soda or wood vat. Then boil in a kettle a few minutes, 5 pounds of cudbear or 8 pounds of archil paste; add 1 pound of soda, or, better, 1 pail of urine; then cool the dye to about 170° F. and enter the wool. Handle well for about 20 minutes, then take it out, cool, rinse, and dry. It makes no difference whether the cudbear is put in before or after the indigo. Three ounces of aniline purple dissolved in alcohol, 1⁠/⁠2 pint, can be used instead of the cudbear. Wood spirit is cheaper than alcohol, and is much used by dyers for the purpose of dissolving aniline colors. It produces a very pretty shade, but should never be used on mixed goods which have to be bleached.

«Dark-Blue Dye.»—This dye is suitable for thibets and lastings. Boil 100 pounds of the fabric for 1 1⁠/⁠2 hours in a solution of alum, 25 pounds; tartar, 4 pounds; mordant, 6 pounds; extract of indigo, 6 pounds; cool as usual. Boil in fresh water from 8 to 10 pounds of logwood, in a bag or otherwise, then cool the dye to 170° F. Reel the fabric quickly at first, then let it boil strongly for 1 hour. This is a very good imitation of indigo blue.

«Saxon Blue.»—For 100 pounds thibet or comb yarn, use alum, 20 pounds; cream of tartar, 3 pounds; mordant, 2 pounds; extract of indigo, 3 pounds; or carmine, 1 pound, makes a better color. When all is dissolved, cool the kettle to 180° F.; enter and handle quickly at first, then let the fabric boil 1⁠/⁠2 hour, or until even. Long boiling dims the color. Zephyr worsted yarn ought to be prepared, first, by boiling it in a solution of alum and sulphuric acid; the indigo is added afterwards.

«Logwood and Indigo Blue.»—For 100 pounds of cloth. Color the cloth first by one or two dips in the vat of indigo blue, and rinse it well, and then boil it in a solution of 20 pounds of alum, 2 pounds of half-refined tartar, and 5 pounds of mordant, for 2 hours; finally take it out and cool. In fresh water boil 10 pounds of good logwood for half an hour in a bag or otherwise; cool off to 170° F. before entering. Handle well over a reel, let it boil for half an hour; then take it out, cool and rinse. This is a very firm blue.

«Blue Purple for Silk.»—For 40 pounds of goods, take bichromate of potash, 8 ounces; alum, 1 pound; dissolve all and bring the water to a boil, and put in the goods; boil 1 hour. Then empty the dye, and make a new dye with logwood, 8 pounds, or extract of logwood, 1 pound 4 ounces, and boil in this 1 hour longer. Grade the color by using more or less logwood, as dark or light color is wanted.

«Blue Purple for Wool.»—One hundred pounds of wool are first dipped in the blue vat to a light shade, then boiled in a solution of 15 pounds of alum and 3 pounds of half-refined tartar, for 1 1⁠/⁠2 hours, the wool taken out, cooled, and let stand 24 hours. Then boil in fresh water 8 pounds of powdered cochineal for a few minutes, cool the kettle to 170° F. Handle the prepared wool in this for 1 hour, when it is ready to cool, rinse and dry. By coloring first with cochineal, as aforesaid, and finishing in the blue vat, the fast purple or dahlia, so much admired in German broadcloths, will be produced. Tin acids must not be used in this color.

«To Make Extract of Indigo Blue.»—Take of vitriol, 2 pounds, and stir into it finely pulverized indigo, 8 ounces, stirring briskly for the first half hour; then {269} cover up, and stir 4 or 5 times daily for a few days. Add a little pulverized chalk, stirring it up, and keep adding it as long as it foams; it will neutralize the acid. Keep it closely corked.

«Light Silver Drab.»—For 50 pounds of goods, use logwood, 1⁠/⁠2 pound; alum, about the same quantity; boil well, enter the goods, and dip them for 1 hour. Grade the color to any desired shade by using equal parts of logwood and alum.

«GRAY DYES:»

«Slate Dye for Silk.»—For a small quantity, take a pan of warm water and about a teacupful of logwood liquor, pretty strong, and a piece of pearlash the size of a nut; take gray-colored goods and handle a little in this liquid, and it is finished. If too much logwood is used, the color will be too dark.