Part 175

DIURETIC BALL: See Veterinary Formulas.

DOG APPLICATIONS: See Insecticides.

«DOG BISCUIT.»

The waste portions of meat and tallow, including the skin and fiber, have for years been imported from South American tallow factories in the form of blocks. Most of the dog bread consists principally of these remnants, chopped and mixed with flour. They contain a good deal of firm fibrous tissue, and a large percentage of fat, but are lacking in nutritive salts, which must be added to make good dog bread, just as in the case of the meat flour made from the waste of meat extract factories. The flesh of dead animals is not used by any reputable manufacturers, for the reason that it gives a dark color to the dough, has an unpleasant odor, and if not properly sterilized would be injurious to dogs as a steady diet.

Wheat flour, containing as little bran as possible, is generally used, oats, rye, or Indian meal being only mixed in to make special varieties, or, as in the case of Indian meal, for cheapness. Rye flour would give a good flavor, but it dries slowly, and the biscuits would have to go through a special process of drying after baking, else they would mold and spoil. Dog bread must be made from good wheat flour, of a medium sort, mixed with 15 or 16 per cent of sweet, dry chopped meat, well baked and dried like pilot bread or crackers. This is the rule for all the standard dog bread on the market. There are admixtures which affect more or less its nutritive value, such as salt, vegetables, chopped bones, or bone meal, phosphate of lime, and other nutritive salts. In preparing the dough and in baking, care must be taken to keep it light and porous.

DOG DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES: See Veterinary Formulas.

DOG SOAP: See Soap.

DONARITE: See Explosives.

DOORS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

«DOSES FOR ADULTS AND CHILDREN.»

The usual method pursued by medical men in calculating the doses of medicine for children is to average the dose in proportion to their approximate weight or to figure out a dose upon the assumption that at 12 years of age half of an adult dose will be about right. Calculated on this basis the doses for those under 12 will be in direct proportion to the age in years plus 12, divided into the age. By this rule a child 1 year old should get 1 plus 12, or 13, dividing 1, or 1⁠/⁠13 of an adult dose. If the child is 2 years old it should get 2 plus 12, or 14, dividing 2, or 1⁠/⁠7 of an adult dose. A child of 3 years should get 3 plus 12, or 15, dividing 3, or 1⁠/⁠5 of an adult dose. A child of 4 should get 4 plus 12, or 16, dividing 4, or 1⁠/⁠4 of an adult dose.

As both children and adults vary materially in size when of the same age the calculation by approximate weights is the more accurate way. Taking the weight of the average adult as 150 pounds, then a boy, man, or woman, whatever the age, weighing only 75 pounds should receive only one-half of an adult dose, and a man of 300 pounds, provided his weight is the result of a properly proportioned body, and not due to mere adipose {266} tissue, should be double that of the average adult. If the weight is due to mere fat or to some diseased condition of the body, such a calculation would be entirely wrong. The object of the calculation is to get as nearly as possible to the amount of dilution the dose undergoes in the blood or in the intestinal contents of the patient. Each volume of blood should receive exactly the same dose in order to give the same results, other conditions being equal.

DOSE TABLE FOR VETERINARY PURPOSES: See Veterinary Formulas.

«DRAWINGS, PRESERVATION OF.»

Working designs and sketches are easily soiled and rendered unsuitable for further use. This can be easily avoided by coating them with collodion, to which 24 per cent of stearine from a good stearine candle has been added. Lay the drawing on a glass plate or a board, and pour on the collodion, as the photographer treats his plates. After 10 or 20 minutes the design will be dry and perfectly white, possessing a dull luster, and being so well protected that it may be washed off with water without fear of spoiling it.

DRAWINGS, TO CLEAN: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

DRIERS: See Siccatives.

DRILLING, LUBRICANT FOR: See Lubricants.

DRINKS FOR SUMMER AND WINTER: See Beverages.

DROPS, TABLE OF: See Tables.

DRYING OILS: See Oil.

DRY ROT: See Rot.

DUBBING FOR LEATHER: See Lubricants.

DUST-LAYING: See Oil.

DUST PREVENTERS AND DUST CLOTHS: See Household Formulas.

«Dyes»

In accordance with the requirements of dyers, many of the following recipes describe dyes for large quantities of goods, but to make them equally adapted for the use of private families they are usually given in even quantities, so that it is an easy matter to ascertain the quantity of materials required for dyeing, when once the weight of the goods is known, the quantity of materials used being reduced in proportion to the smaller quantity of goods.

Employ soft water for all dyeing purposes, if it can be procured, using 4 gallons water to 1 pound of goods; for larger quantities a little less water will do. Let all the implements used in dyeing be kept perfectly clean. Prepare the goods by scouring well with soap and water, washing out the soap well, and dipping in warm water, before immersion in the dye or mordant. Goods should be well aired, rinsed, and properly hung up after dyeing. Silks and fine goods should be tenderly handled, otherwise injury to the fabric will result.