Part 8

The Shrub Halimus, is a sort of Sea-Purslain: The newly peeping Leaves (tho' rarely us'd) afford a no unpleasant Acidule, even during winter, if it prove not too severe.

Purslain is accus'd for being hurtful to the Teeth, if too much eaten.

51. Radish, Raphanus. Albeit rather Medicinal, than so commendably accompanying our Sallets (wherein they often slice the larger Roots) are much inferior to the young Seedling Leaves and Roots; raised on the Monthly Hot-Bed, almost the whole Year round, affording a very grateful mordacity, and sufficiently attempers the cooler Ingredients: The bigger Roots (so much desir'd) should be such as being transparent, eat short and quick, without stringiness, and not too biting. These are eaten alone with Salt only, as carrying their Peper in them; and were indeed by Dioscorides and Pliny celebrated above all Roots whatsoever; insomuch as in the Delphic Temple, there was Raphanus ex auro dicatus, a Radish of solid Gold; and 'tis said of Moschius, that he wrote a whole Volume in their praise. Notwithstanding all which, I am sure, the great Hippocrates utterly condemns them, as Vitiosoe, innatantes ac aegre concoctiles. And the Naturalist calls it Cibus Illiberalis, fitter for Rustics than Gentlemens Tables. And indeed (besides that they decay the Teeth) experience tells us, that as the Prince of Physicians writes, It is hard of Digestion, Inimicous to the Stomach, causing nauseous Eructations, and sometimes Vomiting, tho' otherwise Diuretic, and thought to repel the Vapours of Wine, when the Wits were at their genial Club. Dioscorides and Galen differ about their Eating; One prescribes it before Meals, the latter for after. Some macerate the young Roots in warm milk, to render them more Nourishing.

There is a Raphanus rusticanus, the Spanish black Horse Radish, of a hotter quality, and not so friendly to the Head; but a notable Antiscorbutic, which may be eaten all the Winter, and on that account an excellent Ingredient in the Composition of Mustard; as are also the thin Shavings, mingled with our cold Herbs. And now before I have done with this Root, for an excellent and universal Condiment. Take Horse-Radish, whilst newly drawn out of the Earth, otherwise laid to steep in Water a competent time; then grate it on a Grater which has no bottom, that so it may pass thro', like a Mucilage, into a Dish of Earthen Ware: This temper'd with Vinegar, in which a little Sugar has been dissolv'd, you have a Sauce supplying Mustard to the Sallet, and serving likewise for any Dish besides.

52. Rampion, Rapunculus, or the Esculent Campanula: The tender Roots eaten in the Spring, like those of Radishes, but much more Nourishing.

53. Rocket, Eruca Spanish; hot and dry, to be qualified with Lettuce, Purcelain, and the rest, &c. See Tarragon.

Roccombo. See Onions.

54. Rosemary, Rosmarinus; Soverainly Cephalic, and for the Memory, Sight, and Nerves, incomparable: And tho' not us'd in the Leaf with our Sallet furniture, yet the Flowers, a little bitter, are always welcome in Vinegar; but above all, a fresh Sprig or two in a Glass of Wine. See Flowers.

55. Sage, Salvia; hot and dry. The tops of the Red, well pick'd and wash'd (being often defil'd with Venomous Slime, and almost imperceptible Insects) with the Flowers, retain all the noble Properties of the other hot Plants; more especially for the Head, Memory, Eyes, and all Paralytical Affections. In short, 'tis a Plant endu'd with so many and wonderful Properties, as that the assiduous use of it is said to render Men Immortal: We cannot therefore but allow the tender Summities of the young Leaves; but principally the Flowers in our cold Sallet; yet so as not to domineer.

Salsifax, Scorzonera. See Vipergrass.

56. Sampier, Crithmum: That growing on the Sea-Cliffs (as about Dover, &c.) not only Pickl'd, but crude and cold, when young and tender (and such as we may Cultivate, and have in our Kitchin-Gardens, almost the Year round) is in my Opinion, for its Aromatic, and other excellent Vertues and Effects against the Spleen, Cleansing the Passages, sharpning Appetite, &c. so far preferrable to most of our hotter Herbs, and Sallet-Ingredients, that I have long wonder'd, it has not been long since propagated in the Potagere, as it is in France; from whence I have often receiv'd the Seeds, which have prosper'd better, and more kindly with me, than what comes from our own Coasts: It does not indeed Pickle so well, as being of a more tender Stalk and Leaf: But in all other respects for composing Sallets, it has nothing like it.

57. Scalions, Ascalonia, Cepæ; The French call them Appetites, which it notably quickens and stirs up: Corrects Crudities, and promotes Concoction. The Italians steep them in Water, mince, and eat them cold with Oyl, Vinegar, Salt, &c.

58. Scurvy-grass, Cochlearia, of the Garden, but especially that of the Sea, is sharp, biting, and hot; of Nature like Nasturtium, prevalent in the Scorbute. A few of the tender Leaves may be admitted in our Composition. See Nasturtium Indicum.

59. Sellery, Apium Italicum, (and of the Petroseline Family) was formerly a stranger with us (nor very long since in Italy) is an hot and more generous sort of Macedonian Persley, or Smallage. The tender Leaves of the Blancht Stalk do well in our Sallet, as likewise the slices of the whiten'd Stems, which being crimp and short, first peel'd and slit long wise, are eaten with Oyl, Vinegar, Salt, and Peper; and for its high and grateful Taste, is ever plac'd in the middle of the Grand Sallet, at our Great Mens Tables, and Prætors Feasts, as the Grace of the whole Board. Caution is to be given of a small red Worm, often lurking in these Stalks, as does the green in Fennil.

Shallots. See Onion.

60. Skirrets, Sisarum; hot and moist, corroborating, and good for the Stomach, exceedingly nourishing, wholsome and delicate; of all the Root-kind, not subject to be Windy, and so valued by the Emperor Tiberius, that he accepted them for Tribute.

This excellent Root is seldom eaten raw; but being boil'd, stew'd, roasted under the Embers, bak'd in Pies, whole, sliced, or in pulp, is very acceptable to all Palates. 'Tis reported they were heretofore something bitter; See what Culture and Education effects!

61. Sorrel, Acetosa: of which there are divers kinds. The French Acetocella, with the round Leaf, growing plentifully in the North of England; Roman Oxalis; the broad German, &c. but the best is of Green-Land: by nature cold, Abstersive, Acid, sharpning Appetite, asswages Heat, cools the Liver, strengthens the Heart; is an Antiscorbutic, resisting Putrefaction, and imparting so grateful a quickness to the rest, as supplies the want of Orange, Limon, and other Omphacia, and therefore never to be excluded. Vide Wood-Sorrel.

62. Sow-thistle, Sonchus; of the Intybus-kind. Galen was us'd to eat it as Lettuce; exceedingly welcome to the late Morocco. Ambassador and his Retinue.

63. Sparagus, Asparagus (ab Asperitate) temperately hot, and moist; Cordial, Diuretic, easie of Digestion, and next to Flesh, nothing more nourishing, as Sim. Sethius, an excellent Physician holds. They are sometimes, but very seldom, eaten raw with Oyl, and Vinegar; but with more delicacy (the bitterness first exhausted) being so speedily boil'd, as not to lose the verdure and agreeable tenderness; which is done by letting the Water boil, before you put them in. I do not esteem the Dutch great and larger sort (especially rais'd by the rankness of the Beds) so sweet and agreeable, as those of a moderate size.

64. Spinach, Spinachia: of old not us'd in Sallets, and the oftner kept out the better; I speak of the crude: But being boil'd to a Pult, and without other Water than its own moisture, is a most excellent Condiment with Butter, Vinegar, or Limon, for almost all sorts of boil'd Flesh, and may accompany a Sick Man's Diet. 'Tis Laxative and Emollient, and therefore profitable for the Aged, and (tho' by original a Spaniard) may be had at almost any Season, and in all places.

Stone-Crop, Sedum Minus. See Trick-Madame.

65. Succory, Cichorium, an Intube; erratic and wild, with a narrow dark Leaf, different from the Sative, tho' probably by culture only; and for being very bitter, a little edulcorated with Sugar and Vinegar, is by some eaten in the Summer, and more grateful to the Stomach than the Palate. See Endive.

66. Tansy, Tanacetum; hot and cleansing; but in regard of its domineering relish, sparingly mixt with our cold Sallet, and much fitter (tho' in very small quantity) for the Pan, being qualified with the Juices of other fresh Herbs, Spinach, Green Corn, Violet, Primrose-Leaves, &c. at entrance of the Spring, and then fried brownish, is eaten hot with the Juice of Orange and Sugar, as one of the most agreeable of all the boil'd Herbaceous Dishes.

67. Tarragon, Draco Herba, of Spanish Extraction; hot and spicy: The Tops and young Shoots, like those of Rochet, never to be secluded our Composition, especially where there is much Lettuce. 'Tis highly cordial and friendly to the Head, Heart, Liver, correcting the weakness of the Ventricle, &c.

68. Thistle, Carduus Mariæ; our Lady's milky or dappl'd Thistle, disarm'd of its Prickles, is worth esteem: The young Stalk about May, being peel'd and soak'd in Water, to extract the bitterness, boil'd or raw, is a very wholsome Sallet, eaten with Oyl, Salt, and Peper; some eat them sodden in proper Broath, or bak'd in Pies, like the Artichoak; but the tender Stalk boil'd or fry'd, some preferr; both Nourishing and Restorative.

69. Trick-Madame, Sedum minus, Stone-Crop; is cooling and moist, grateful to the Stomach. The Cimata and Tops, when young and tender, dress'd as Purselane, is a frequent Ingredient in our cold Sallet.

70. Turnep, Rapum; moderately hot and moist: Napus; the long Navet is certainly the most delicate of them, and best Nourishing. Pliny speaks of no fewer than six sorts, and of several Colours; some of which were suspected to be artificially tinged. But with us, the yellow is preferr'd; by others the red Bohemian. But of whatever kind, being sown upon the Hot-bed, and no bigger than seedling Radish, they do excellently in Composition; as do also the Stalks of the common Turnep, when first beginning to Bud.