Part 7

32. Jack-by-the-Hedge, Alliaria, or Sauce-alone; has many Medicinal Properties, and is eaten as other Sallets, especially by Country People, growing wild under their Banks and Hedges.

33. Leeks, and Cibbols, Porrum; hot, and of Vertue Prolifick, since Latona, the Mother of Appolo long'd after them: The Welch, who eat them much, are observ'd to be very fruitful: They are also friendly to the Lungs and Stomach, being sod in Milk; a few therefore of the slender and green Summities, a little shred, do not amiss in Composition. See Onion.

34. Lettuce, Lactuca: Tho' by Metaphor call'd Mortuorum Cibi, (to say nothing of Adonis and his sad Mistriss) by reason of its Soporiferous quality, ever was, and still continues the principal Foundation of the universal Tribe of Sallets; which is to Cool and Refresh, besides its other Properties: And therefore in such high esteem with the Ancients; that divers of the Valerian Family, dignify'd and enobled their Name with that of Lactucinii.

It is indeed of Nature more cold and moist than any of the rest; yet less astringent, and so harmless that it may safely be eaten raw in Fevers; for it allays Heat, bridles Choler, extinguishes Thirst, excites Appetite, kindly Nourishes, and above all represses Vapours, conciliates Sleep, mitigates Pain; besides the effect it has upon the Morals, Temperance and Chastity. Galen (whose beloved Sallet it was) from its pinguid, subdulcid and agreeable Nature, says it breeds the most laudable Blood. No marvel then that they were by the Ancients called Sana, by way of eminency, and so highly valu'd by the great Augustus, that attributing his Recovery of a dangerous Sickness to them, 'tis reported, he erected a Statue, and built an Altar to this noble Plant. And that the most abstemious and excellent Emperor Tacitus (spending almost nothing at his frugal Table in other Dainties) was yet so great a Friend to Lettuce, that he was us'd to say of his Prodigality, Somnum se mercari illa sumptus effusione. How it was celebrated by Galen we have heard; how he us'd it he tells himself; namely, beginning with Lettuce in his younger Days, and concluding with it when he grew old, and that to his great advantage. In a word, we meet with nothing among all our crude Materials and Sallet store, so proper to mingle with any of the rest, nor so wholsome to be eaten alone, or in Composition, moderately, and with the usual Oxeloeum of Vinegar, Pepper, and Oyl, &c. which last does not so perfectly agree with the Alphange, to which the Juice of Orange, or Limon and Sugar is more desirable: Aristoxenus is reported to have irrigated his Lettuce-Beds with an Oinomelite, or mixture of Wine and Honey: And certainly 'tis not for nothing that our Garden-Lovers, and Brothers of the Sallet, have been so exceedingly Industrious to cultivate this Noble Plant, and multiply its Species; for to name a few in present use: We have the Alphange of Montpelier, crisp and delicate; the Arabic; Ambervelleres; Belgrade, Cabbage, Capuchin, Coss-Lettuce, Curl'd; the Genoa (lasting all the Winter) the Imperial, Lambs, or Agnine, and Lobbs or Lop-Lettuces. The French Minion a dwarf kind: The Oak-Leaf, Passion, Roman, Shell, and Silesian, hard and crimp (esteemed of the best and rarest) with divers more: And here let it be noted, that besides three or four sorts of this Plant, and some few of the rest, there was within our remembrance, rarely any other Salleting serv'd up to the best Tables; with unblanch'd Endive, Succory, Purselan, (and indeed little other variety) Sugar and Vinegar being the constant Vehicles (without Oyl) but now Sugar is almost wholly banish'd from all, except the more effeminate Palates, as too much palling, and taking from the grateful Acid now in use, tho' otherwise not totally to be reproved: Lettuce boil'd and Condited is sometimes spoken of.

35. Limon, Limonia, citrea mala; exceedingly refreshing, Cordial, &c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice, secluding the over-sweet or bitter. See Orange.

36. Mallow, Malva; the curl'd, emollient, and friendly to the Ventricle, and so rather Medicinal; yet may the Tops, well boil'd, be admitted, and the rest (tho' out of use at present) was taken by the Poets for all Sallets in general. Pythagoras held Malvæ folium Sanctisimum; and we find Epimenides in Plato at his Mallows and Asphodel; and indeed it was of old the first Dish at Table: The Romans had it also in deliciis, Malvæ salubres corpori, approved by Galen and Dioscorides; namely the Garden-Mallow, by others the Wild; but I think both proper rather for the Pot, than Sallet. Nonius supposes the tall Rosea, Arborescent Holi-hocks, that bears the broad Flower, for the best, and very Laxative; but by reason of their clamminess and Lentor, banished from our Sallet, tho' by some commended and eaten with Oyl and Vinegar, and some with Butter.

Mercury, Bonus Henricus, English Mercury, or Lapathum Unctuosum. See Blitum.

37. Melon, Melo; to have been reckon'd rather among Fruits; and tho' an usual Ingredient in our Sallet; yet for its transcendent delicacy and flavor, cooling and exhilarating Nature (if sweet, dry, weighty, and well-fed) not only superior all the Gourd-kind, but Paragon with the noblest Productions of the Garden. Jos. Scaliger and Casaubon, think our Melon unknown to the Ancients, (which others contradict) as yet under the name of Cucumers: But he who reads how artificially they were Cultivated, rais'd under Glasses, and expos'd to the hot Sun, (for Tiberius) cannot well doubt of their being the same with ours.

There is also a Winter-Melon, large and with black Seeds, exceedingly Cooling, brought us from abroad, and the hotter Climates, where they drink Water after eating Melons; but in the colder (after all dispute) Wine is judg'd the better: That it has indeed by some been accus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach (as do all things else eaten in excess) is not deny'd: But a perfect good Melon is certainly as harmless a Fruit as any whatsoever; and may safely be mingl'd with Sallet, in Pulp or Slices, or more properly eaten by it self, with a little Salt and Pepper; for a Melon which requires Sugar to commend it, wants of Perfection. Note, That this Fruit was very rarely cultivated in England, so as to bring it to Maturity, till Sir Geo. Gardner came out of Spain. I my self remembring, when an ordinary Melon would have been sold for five or six Shillings. The small unripe Fruit, when the others are past, may be Pickl'd with Mango, and are very delicate.

38. Mint, Mentha; the Angustifolia Spicata, Spear-Mint; dry and warm, very fragrant, a little press'd, is friendly to the weak Stomach, and powerful against all Nervous Crudities: The gentler Tops of the Orange-Mint, enter well into our Composition, or are grateful alone (as are also the other sorts) with the Juice of Orange, and a little Sugar.

39. Mushroms, Fungi; By the Orator call'd Terræ, by Porphyry Deorum filii, without Seed (as produc'd by the Midwifry of Autumnal Thunder-Storms, portending the Mischief they cause) by the French, Champignons, with all the Species of the Boletus, &c. for being, as some hold, neither Root, Herb, Flower, nor Fruit, nor to be eaten crude; should be therefore banish'd entry into our Sallet, were I to order the Composition; however so highly contended for by many, as the very principal and top of all the rest; whilst I think them tolerable only (at least in this Climate) if being fresh and skilfully chosen, they are accommodated with the nicest Care and Circumspection; generally reported to have something malignant and noxious in them: Nor without cause; from the many sad Examples, frequent Mischiefs, and funest Accidents they have produc'd, not only to particular Persons, but whole Families: Exalted indeed they were to the second Course of the Cæsarian Tables, with the noble Title [Greek: Brôma theôn], a Dainty fit for the Gods alone; to whom they sent the Emperor Claudius, as they have many since, to the other World. But he that reads how Seneca deplores his lost Friend, that brave Commander Annæus Serenus, and several other gallant Persons with him, who all of them perish'd at the same Repast; would be apt to ask with the Naturalist (speaking of this suspicious Dainty) Quæ voluptas tanta ancipitis cibi? and who indeed would hazard it? So true is that of the Poet; He that eats Mushroms, many time Nil amplius edit, eats no more perhaps all his Life after. What other deterring Epithets are given for our Caution, [Greek: Barê pnigoenta mukêtôn], heavy and choaking. (Athenæus reporting of the Poet Euripides's, finding a Woman and her three Children strangl'd by eating of them) one would think sufficient warning.

Among these comes in the Fungus Reticularis, to be found about London, as at Fulham and other places; whilst at no small charge we send for them into France; as we also do for Trufles, Pig-nuts, and other subterraneous Tubera, which in Italy they fry in Oyl, and eat with Pepper: They are commonly discovered by a Nasute Swine purposely brought up; being of a Chessnut Colour, and heady Smell, and not seldom found in England, particularly in a Park of my Lord Cotton's at Rushton or Rusbery in Northampton-shire, and doubtless in other places too were they sought after. How these rank and provocative Excrescences are to be treated (of themselves insipid enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or Conditure) that they may do the less Mischief we might here set down. But since there be so many ways of Dressing them, that I can incourage none to use them, for Reasons given (besides that they do not at all concern our safer and innocent Sallet Furniture) I forbear it; and referr those who long after this beloved Ragout, and other Voluptuaria Venena (as Seneca calls them) to what our Learned Dr. Lyster says of the many Venomous Insects harbouring and corrupting in a new found-out Species of Mushroms had lately in deliciis. Those, in the mean time, which are esteemed best, and less pernicious, (of which see the Appendix) are such as rise in rich, airy, and dry Pasture-Grounds; growing on the Staff or Pedicule of about an Inch thick and high; moderately Swelling (Target-like) round and firm, being underneath of a pale saffronish hue, curiously radiated in parallel Lines and Edges, which becoming either Yellow, Orange, or Black, are to be rejected: But besides what the Harvest-Months produce, they are likewise rais'd Artificially; as at Naples in their Wine-Cellars, upon an heap of rank Earth, heaped upon a certain supposed Stone, but in truth, (as the curious and noble Peiresky tells us, he found to be) nothing but an heap of old Fungus's, reduc'd and compacted to a stony hardness, upon which they lay Earth, and sprinkle it with warm Water, in which Mushroms have been steeped. And in France, by making an hot Bed of Asses-Dung, and when the heat is in Temper, watering it (as above) well impregnated with the Parings and Offals of refuse Fungus's; and such a Bed will last two or three Years, and sometimes our common Melon-Beds afford them, besides other Experiments.

40. Mustard, Sinapi; exceeding hot and mordicant, not only in the Seed but Leaf also; especially in Seedling young Plants, like those of Radishes (newly peeping out of the Bed) is of incomparable effect to quicken and revive the Spirits; strengthening the Memory, expelling heaviness, preventing the Vertiginous Palsie, and is a laudable Cephalick. Besides it is an approv'd Antiscorbutick; aids Concoction, cuts and dissipates Phlegmatick Humours. In short, 'tis the most noble Embamma, and so necessary an Ingredient to all cold and raw Salleting, that it is very rarely, if at all, to be left out. In Italy in making Mustard, they mingle Limon and Orange-Peel, with the Seeds. How the best is made, see hereafter.

Nasturtium Indicum. See Cresses.

41. Nettles, Urtica; Hot, dry, Diuretic, Solvent; purifies the Blood: The Buds, and very tender Cimae, a little bruised, are by some eaten raw, by others boil'd, especially in Spring-Pottage, with other Herbs.

42. Onion, Cepa, Porrum; the best are such as are brought us out of Spain, whence they of St. Omers had them, and some that have weigh'd eight Pounds. Choose therefore the large, round, white, and thin Skin'd. Being eaten crude and alone with Oyl, Vinegar, and Pepper, we own them in Sallet, not so hot as Garlick, nor at all so rank: Boil'd, they give a kindly relish; raise Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cut Phlegm, and profit the Asthmatical: But eaten in excess, are said to offend the Head and Eyes, unless Edulcorated with a gentle maceration. In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the Sight, is imputable only to the Vapour rising from the raw Onion, when peeled, which some commend for its purging and quickning that Sense. How they are us'd in Pottage, boil'd in Milk, stew'd, &c. concerns the Kitchin. In our cold Sallet we supply them with the Porrum Sectile, Tops of Leeks, and Eschalots (Ascalonia) of gust more exalted, yet not to the degree of Garlick. Or (by what of later use is much preferr'd) with a Seed or two of Raccombo, of a yet milder and delicate nature, which by rubbing the Dish only, imparts its Vertue agreeably enough. In Italy they frequently make a Sallet of Scalions, Cives, and Chibbols only season'd with Oyl and Pepper; and an honest laborious Country-man, with good Bread, Salt, and a little Parsley, will make a contented Meal with a roasted Onion. How this noble Bulb was deified in Egypt we are told, and that whilst they were building the Pyramids, there was spent in this Root Ninety Tun of Gold among the Workmen. So lushious and tempting it seems they were, that as whole Nations have subsisted on them alone; so the Israelites were ready to return to Slavery and Brick-making for the love of them. Indeed Hecamedes we find presents them to Patroclus, in Homer, as a Regalo; But certainly we are either mistaken in the Species (which some will have to be Melons) or use Poetick Licence, when we so highly magnify them.

43. Orach, Atriplex: Is cooling, allays the Pituit Humor: Being set over the Fire, neither this, nor Lettuce, needs any other Water than their own moisture to boil them in, without Expression: The tender Leaves are mingl'd with other cold Salleting; but 'tis better in Pottage. See Blitum.

44. Orange, Arantiæ (Malum aureum) Moderately dry, cooling, and incisive; sharpens Appetite, exceedingly refreshes and resists Putrefaction: We speak of the Sub acid; the sweet and bitter Orange being of no use in our Sallet. The Limon is somewhat more acute, cooling and extinguishing Thirst; of all the [Greek: Oxubapha] the best succedaneum to Vinegar. The very Spoils and Rinds of Orange and Limon being shred and sprinkl'd among the other Herbs, correct the Acrimony. But they are the tender Seedlings from the Hot-Bed, which impart an Aromatic exceedingly grateful to the Stomach. Vide Limon.

45. Parsnep, Pastinaca, Carrot: first boil'd, being cold, is of it self a Winter-Sallet, eaten with Oyl, Vinegar, &c. and having something of Spicy, is by some, thought more nourishing than the Turnep.

46. Pease, Pisum: the Pod of the Sugar-Pease, when first beginning to appear, with the Husk and Tendrels, affording a pretty Acid, enter into the Composition, as do those of Hops and the Vine.

47. Peper, Piper, hot and dry in a high degree; of approv'd Vertue against all flatulency proceeding from cold and phlegmatic Constitutions, and generally all Crudities whatsoever; and therefore for being of universal use to correct and temper the cooler Herbs, and such as abound in moisture; It is a never to be omitted Ingredient of our Sallets; provided it be not too minutely beaten (as oft we find it) to an almost impalpable Dust, which is very pernicious and frequently adheres and sticks in the folds of the Stomach, where, instead of promoting Concoction, it often causes a Cardialgium, and fires the Blood: It should therefore be grosly contus'd only.

Indian Capsicum, superlatively hot and burning, is yet by the Africans eaten with Salt and Vinegar by it self, as an usual Condiment; but wou'd be of dangerous consequence with us; being so much more of an acrimonious and terribly biting quality, which by Art and Mixture is notwithstanding render'd not only safe, but very agreeable in our Sallet.

Take the Pods, and dry them well in a Pan; and when they are become sufficiently hard, cut them into small pieces, and stamp 'em in a Mortar to dust: To each Ounce of which add a Pound of Wheat-flour, fermented with a little Levain: Kneed and make them into Cakes or Loaves cut long-wise, in shape of Naples-Biscuit. These Re-bake a second time, till they are Stone-hard: Pound them again as before, and ferce it through a fine Sieve, for a very proper Seasoning, instead of vulgar Peper. The Mordicancy thus allay'd, be sure to make the Mortar very clean, after having beaten Indian Capsicum, before you stamp any thing in it else. The green Husks, or first peeping Buds of the Walnut-Tree, dry'd to Powder, serve for Peper in some places, and so do Myrtle-berries.

48. Persley, Petroselinum, or Apium hortense; being hot and dry, opens Obstructions, is very Diuretic, yet nourishing, edulcorated in shifted warm Water (the Roots especially) but of less Vertue than Alexanders; nor so convenient in our crude Sallet, as when decocted on a Medicinal Account. Some few tops of the tender Leaves may yet be admitted; tho' it was of old, we read, never brought to the Table at all, as sacred to Oblivium and the Defunct. In the mean time, there being nothing more proper for Stuffing, (Farces) and other Sauces, we consign it to the Olitories. Note, that Persley is not so hurtful to the Eyes as is reported. See Sellery.

49. Pimpernel, Pimpinella; eaten by the French and Italians, is our common Burnet; of so chearing and exhilarating a quality, and so generally commended, as (giving it admittance into all Sallets) 'tis pass'd into a Proverb:

L'Insalata non è buon, ne bella Ove non è la Pimpinella.

But a fresh sprig in Wine, recommends it to us as its most genuine Element.

50. Purslain, Portulaca; especially the Golden whilst tender, next the Seed-leaves, with the young Stalks, being eminently moist and cooling, quickens Appetite, asswages Thirst, and is very profitable for hot and Bilious Tempers, as well as Sanguine, and generally entertain'd in all our Sallets, mingled with the hotter Herbs: Tis likewise familiarly eaten alone with Oyl and Vinegar; but with moderation, as having been sometimes found to corrupt in the Stomach, which being Pickl'd 'tis not so apt to do. Some eat it cold, after it has been boil'd, which Dr. Muffet would have in Wine, for Nourishment.