Part 9

And here should not be forgotten, that wholsome, as well as agreeable sort of Bread, we are taught to make; and of which we have eaten at the greatest Persons Tables, hardly to be distinguish'd from the best of Wheat.

Let the Turneps first be peel'd, and boil'd in Water till soft and tender; then strongly pressing out the Juice, mix them together, and when dry (beaten or pounded very fine) with their weight of Wheat-Meal, season it as you do other Bread, and knead it up; then letting the Dough remain a little to ferment, fashion the Paste into Loaves, and bake it like common Bread.

Some roast Turneps in a Paper under the Embers, and eat them with Sugar and Butter.

71. Vine, Vitis, the Capreols, Tendrels, and Claspers (like those of the Hop, &c.) whilst very young, have an agreeable Acid, which may be eaten alone, or with other Sallet.

72. Viper-grass, Tragopogon, Scorzonera, Salsifex, &c. tho' Medicinal, and excellent against the Palpitation of the Heart, Faintings, Obstruction of the Bowels, &c. are besides a very sweet and pleasant Sallet; being laid to soak out the bitterness, then peel'd, may be eaten raw, or Condited; but best of all stew'd with Marrow, Spice, Wine, &c. as Artichoak, Skirrets, &c. sliced or whole. They likewise may bake, fry, or boil them; a more excellent Root there is hardly growing.

73. Wood-Sorrel, Trifolium acetosum, or Alleluja, of the nature of other Sorrels.

To all which might we add sundry more, formerly had in deliciis, since grown obsolete or quite neglected with us: As among the noblest Bulbs, that of the Tulip; a Root of which has been valued not to eat, but for the Flower (and yet eaten by mistake) at more than an hundred Pounds. The young fresh Bulbs are sweet and high of taste.

The Asphodil or Daffodil; a Sallet so rare in Hesiod's Days, that Lobel thinks it the Parsnep, tho' not at all like it; however it was (with the Mallow) taken anciently for any Edule-Root.

The Ornithogalons roasted, as they do Chestnuts, are eaten by the Italians, the wild yellow especially, with Oyl, Vinegar, and Peper. And so the small tuberous Roots of Gramen Amygdalosum; which they also roast, and make an Emulsion of, to use in Broaths as a great Restorative. The Oxylapathum, us'd of old; in the time of Galen was eaten frequently. As also Dracontium, with the Mordicant Arum Theophrasti, which Dodonæus teaches how to Dress. Nay, divers of the Satyrions, which some condited with Sugar, others boil'd in Milk for a great Nourisher, now discarded. But what think we of the Cicuta, which there are who reckon among Sallet Herbs? But whatever it is in any other Country, 'tis certainly Mortiferous in ours. To these add the Viola Matronalis, Radix Lunaria, &c. nay, the Green Poppy, by most accounted among the deadly Poysons: How cautious then ought our Sallet-Gatherers to be, in reading ancient Authors; lest they happen to be impos'd on, where they treat of Plants, that are familiarly eaten in other Countries, and among other Nations and People of more robust and strong constitutions? bessides the hazard of being mistaken in the Names of divers Simples, not as yet fully agreed upon among the Learned in Botany.

There are bessides several remaining, which tho' Abdicated here with us, find Entertainment still in Foreign Countries: As the large Heliotrope and Sun-flower (e're it comes to expand, and shew its golden Face) which being dress'd as the Artichoak, is eaten for a dainty. This I add as a new Discovery. I once made Macaroons with the ripe blanch'd Seeds, but the Turpentine did so domineer over all, that it did not answer expectation. The Radix Personata mounting with their young Heads, Lysimachia siliquosa glabra minor, when fresh and tender, begins to come into the Sallet-Tribe. The pale whiter Popy, is eaten by the Genouese. By the Spaniards, the tops of Wormwood with Oyl alone, and without so much as Bread; profitable indeed to the Stomach, but offensive to the Head; As is also Coriander and Rue, which Galen was accustom'd to eat raw, and by it self, with Oyl and Salt, as exceedingly grateful, as well as wholsome, and of great vertue against Infection. Pliny, I remember, reports it to be of such effect for the Preservation of Sight; that the Painters of his Time, us'd to devour a great quantity of it. And it is still by the Italians frequently mingled among their Sallets. The Lapatha Personata (common Burdock) comes now and then to the best Tables, about April, and when young, before the Burrs and Clots appear, being strip'd, and the bitterness soaked out, treated as the Chardoon, is eaten in Poiverade; Some also boil them. More might here be reckon'd up, but these may suffice; since as we find some are left off, and gone out, so others be introduc'd and come in their room, and that in much greater Plenty and Variety, than was ever known by our Ancestors. The Cucumber it self, now so universally eaten, being accounted little better than Poyson, even within our Memory, as already noted.

To conclude, and after all that has been said of Plants and Salleting, formerly in great esteem, (but since obsolete and quite rejected); What if the exalted Juice of the ancient Silphium should come in, and challenge the Precedency? It is a Plant formerly so highly priz'd, and rare for the richness of its Taste and other Vertues; that as it was dedicated to Apollo, and hung up in his Temple at Delphi; So we read of one single Root brought to the Emperor Nero for an extraordinary Present; and the Drug so esteem'd, that the Romans had long before amass'd a quantity of it, and kept it in the Treasury, till Julius Cæsar rob'd it, and took this away, as a thing of mighty value: In a word, it was of that Account; that as a sacred Plant, those of the Cyrenaic Africa, honour'd the very Figure of it, by stamping it on the Reverse of their Coin; and when they would commend a thing for its worth to the Skies, [Greek: Bat-ou silphion], grew into a Proverb: Battus having been the Founder of the City Cyrene, near which it only grew. 'Tis indeed contested among the Learned Botanosophists, whether this Plant was not the same with Laserpitium, and the Laser it yields, the odoriferous Benzoin? But doubtless had we the true and genuine Silphium (for it appears to have been often sophisticated, and a spurious sort brought into Italy) it would soon recover its pristine Reputation, and that it was not celebrated so for nothing extraordinary; since bessides its Medicinal Vertue; it was a wonderful Corroborater of the Stomach, a Restorer of lost Appetite, and Masculine Vigour, &c. and that they made use of it almost in every thing they eat.

But should we now really tell the World, that this precious Juice is, by many, thought to be no other than the Faetid Assa our nicer Sallet-Eaters (who yet bestow as odious an Epithet on the vulgar Garlick) would cry out upon it as intolerable, and perhaps hardly believe it: But as Aristophanes has brought it in, and sufficiently describ'd it; so the Scholiast upon the place, puts it out of Controversy: And that they made use both of the Leaves, Stalk, (and Extract especially) as we now do Garlick, and other Hautgouts as nauseous altogether. In the mean time, Garcius, Bontius, and others, assure us, that the Indians at this day universally sauce their Viands with it; and the Bramins (who eat no Flesh at all) inrich their Sallets, by constantly rubbing the Dishes with it. Nor are some of our own skilful Cooks Ingnorant, how to condite and use it, with the Applause of those, who, ignorant of the Secret, have admir'd the richness of the Gust it has imparted, when it has been substituted instead of all our Cipollati, and other seasonings of that Nature.

And thus have we done with the various Species of all such Esculents as may properly enter the Composition of our Acetaria, and cold Sallet. And if I have briefly touch'd upon their Natures, Degrees, and primary Qualities, which Intend or Remit, as to the Scale of Heat, Cold, Driness, Moisture, &c. (which is to be understood according to the different Texture of their component Particles) it has not been without what I thought necessary for the Instruction of the Gatherer, and Sallet-Dresser; how he ought to choose, sort, and mingle his Materials and Ingredients together.

What Care and Circumspection should attend the choice and collection of Sallet Herbs, has been partly shew'd. I can therefore, by no means, approve of that extravagant Fancy of some, who tell us, that a Fool is as fit to be the Gatherer of a Sallet as a Wiser Man. Because, say they, one can hardly choose amiss, provided the Plants be green, young, and tender, where-ever they meet with them: But sad experience shews, how many fatal Mistakes have been committed by those who took the deadly Cicutæ, Hemlocks, Aconits, &c. for Garden Persley, and Parsneps; the Myrrhis Sylvestris, or Cow-Weed, for Chaerophilum, (Chervil) Thapsia for Fennel; the wild Chondrilla for Succory; Dogs-Mercury instead of Spinach: Papaver Corniculatum Luteum, and horn'd Poppy for Eringo; Oenanthe aquatica for the Palustral Apium, and a world more, whose dire effects have been many times sudden Death, and the cause of Mortal Accidents to those who have eaten of them unwittingly: But supposing some of those wild and unknown Plants should not prove so deleterious and unwholsome; yet may others of them annoy the Head, Brain, and Genus Nervosum, weaken the Eyes, offend the Stomach, affect the Liver, torment the Bowels, and discover their malignity in dangerous and dreadful Symptoms. And therefore such Plants as are rather Medicinal than Nourishing and Refreshing, are studiously to be rejected. So highly necessary it is, that what we sometimes find in old Books concerning Edules of other Countries and Climates (frequently call'd by the Names of such as are wholsome in ours, and among us) mislead not the unskilful Gatherer; to prevent which we read of divers Popes and Emperors, that had sometimes Learned Physicians for their Master-Cooks. I cannot therefore but exceedingly approve of that charitable Advice of Mr. Ray (Transact. Num. 238.) who thinks it the Interest of Mankind, that all Persons should be caution'd of advent'ring upon unknown Herbs and Plants to their Prejudice: Of such, I say, with our excellent Poet (a little chang'd)

Happy from such conceal'd, if still do lie, Of Roots and Herbs the unwholsome Luxury.

The Illustrious and Learned Columna has, by observing what Insects did usually feed on, make Conjectures of the Nature of the Plants. But I should not so readily adventure upon it on that account, as to its wholsomness: For tho' indeed one may safely eat of a Peach or Abricot, after a Snail has been Taster, I question whether it might be so of all other Fruits and Herbs attack'd by other Insects: Nor would one conclude, the Hyoscyamus harmless, because the Cimex feeds upon it, as the Learned Dr. Lyster has discover'd. Notice should therefore be taken what Eggs of Insects are found adhering to the Leaves of Sallet-Herbs, and frequently cleave so firmly to them, as not easily to be wash'd off, and so not being taken notice of, passing for accidental and harmless Spots only, may yet produce very ill effects.

Grillus, who according to the Doctrine of Transmigration (as Plutarch tells us) had, in his turn, been a Beast; discourses how much better he fed, and liv'd, than when he was turn'd to Man again, as knowing then, what Plants were best and most proper for him: Whilst Men, Sarcophagists (Flesh-Eaters) in all this time were yet to seek. And 'tis indeed very evident, that Cattel, and other [Greek: panphaga], and herbaceous Animals which feed on Plants, are directed by their Smell, and accordingly make election of their Food: But Men (bessides the Smell and Taste) have, or should have, Reason, Experience, and the Aids of Natural Philosophy to be their Guides in this Matter. We have heard of Plants, that (like the Basilisk) kill and infect by looking on them only; and some by the touch. The truth is, there's need of all the Senses to determine Analogically concerning the Vertues and Properties, even of the Leaves alone of many Edule Plants: The most eminent Principles of near the whole Tribe of Sallet Vegetables, inclining rather to Acid and Sowre than to any other quality, especially, Salt, Sweet, or Luscious. There is therefore Skill and Judgment requir'd, how to suit and mingle our Sallet-Ingredients, so as may best agree with the Constitution of the (vulgarly reputed) Humors of those who either stand in need of, or affect these Refreshments, and by so adjusting them, that as nothing should be suffer'd to domineer, so should none of them lose their genuine Gust, Savour, or Vertue. To this end,

The Cooler, and moderately refreshing, should be chosen to extinguish Thirst, attemper the Blood, repress Vapours, &c.

The Hot, Dry, Aromatic, Cordial and friendly to the Brain, may be qualify'd by the Cold and Moist: The Bitter and Stomachical, with the Sub-acid and gentler Herbs: The Mordicant and pungent, and such as repress or discuss Flatulency (revive the Spirits, and aid Concoction;) with such as abate, and take off the keenness, mollify and reconcile the more harsh and churlish: The mild and insipid, animated with piquant and brisk: The Astringent and Binders, with such as are Laxative and Deobstruct: The over-sluggish, raw, and unactive, with those that are Eupeptic, and promote Concoction: There are Pectorals for the Breast and Bowels. Those of middle Nature, according as they appear to be more or less Specific; and as their Characters (tho' briefly) are describ'd in our foregoing Catalogue: For notwithstanding it seem in general, that raw Sallets and Herbs have experimentally been found to be the most soveraign Diet in that Endemial (and indeed with us, Epidemical and almost universal) Contagion the Scorbute, to which we of this Nation, and most other Ilanders are obnoxious; yet, since the Nasturtia are singly, and alone as it were, the most effectual, and powerful Agents in conquering and expugning that cruel Enemy; it were enough to give the Sallet-Dresser direction how to choose, mingle, and proportion his Ingredients; as well as to shew what Remedies there are contain'd in our Magazine of Sallet-Plants upon all Occasions, rightly marshal'd and skilfully apply'd. So as (with our sweet Cowley)

If thro' the strong and beauteous Fence Of Temperance and Innocence, And wholsome Labours, and a quiet Mind, Diseases passage find; They must not think here to assail A Land unarm'd, or without Guard, They must fight for it, and dispute it hard, Before they can prevail; Scarce any Plant is used here, Which 'gainst some Aile a Weapon does not bear.

We have said how necessary it is, that in the Composure of a Sallet, every Plant should come in to bear its part, without being over-power'd by some Herb of a stronger Taste, so as to endanger the native Sapor and vertue of the rest; but fall into their places, like the Notes in Music, in which there should be nothing harsh or grating: And tho' admitting some Discords (to distinguish and illustrate the rest) striking in the more sprightly, and sometimes gentler Notes, reconcile all Dissonancies, and melt them into an agreeable Composition. Thus the Comical Master-Cook, introduc'd by Damoxenus, when asked [Greek: pôs esin autois onmphonia]; What Harmony there was in Meats? The very same (says he) that a Diatessaron, Diapente, and Diapason have one to another in a Consort of Music: And that there was as great care requir'd, not to mingle Sapores minime consentientes, jarring and repugnant Tastes; looking upon him as a lamentable Ignorant, who should be no better vers'd in Democritus. The whole Scene is very diverting, as Athenæus presents it; and to the same sense Macrobius, Saturn. lib. I. cap. I. In short, the main Skill of the Artist lies in this:

What choice to choose, for delicacy best; What Order so contriv'd, as not to mix Tastes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring Taste after Taste, upheld by kindliest change.

As our Paradisian Bard introduces Eve, dressing of a Sallet for her Angelical Guest.

Thus, by the discreet choice and mixture of the Oxoleon (Oyl, Vinegar, Salt, &c.) the Composition is perfect; so as neither the Prodigal, Niggard, nor Insipid, should (according to the Italian Rule) prescribe in my Opinion; since One may be too profuse, the Other over-saving, and the Third (like himself) give it no Relish at all: It may be too sharp, if it exceed a grateful Acid; too Insulse and flat, if the Profusion be extream. From all which it appears, that a Wise-Man is the proper Composer of an excellent Sallet, and how many Transcendences belong to an accomplish'd Sallet-Dresser, so as to emerge an exact Critic indeed, He should be skill'd in the Degrees, Terms, and various Species of Tastes, according to the Scheme set us down in the Tables of the Learned Dr. Grew, to which I refer the Curious.

'Tis moreover to be consider'd, that Edule Plants are not in all their Tastes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made us to consist of different Parts and Members, both Internal and External; so require they different Juices to nourish and supply them: Wherefore the force and activity of some Plants lie in the Root; and even the Leaves of some Bitter-Roots are sweet, and è contra. Of others, in the Stem, Leaves, Buds, Flowers, &c. Some exert their Vigour without Decoction; others being a little press'd or contus'd; others again Raw, and best in Consort; some alone, and per se without any [Greek: skenasia], Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore must be taken by the Collector, that what he gathers answer to these Qualities; and that as near as he can, they consist (I speak of the cruder Salleting) of the Oluscula, and ex foliis pubescentibus, or (as Martial calls them) Prototomi rudes, and very tenderest Parts Gems, young Buds, and even first Rudiments of their several Plants; such as we sometimes find in the Craws of the Wood-Culver, Stock-Dove, Partridge, Pheasants, and other Upland Fowl, where we have a natural Sallet, pick'd, and almost dress'd to our hands.

I. Preparatory to the Dressing therefore, let your Herby Ingredients be exquisitely cull'd, and cleans'd of all worm-eaten, slimy, canker'd, dry, spotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And then that they be rather discreetly sprinkl'd, than over-much sob'd with Spring-Water, especially Lettuce, which Dr. Muffet thinks impairs their Vertue; but this, I suppose he means of the Cabbage-kind, whose heads are sufficiently protected by the outer Leaves which cover it. After washing, let them remain a while in the Cullender, to drain the superfluous moisture: And lastly, swing them altogether gently in a clean course Napkin; and so they will be in perfect condition to receive the Intinctus following.

II. That the Oyl, an Ingredient so indispensibly and highly necessary, as to have obtain'd the name of Cibarium (and with us of Sallet-Oyl) be very clean, not high-colour'd, nor yellow; but with an Eye rather of a pallid Olive green, without Smell, or the least touch of rancid, or indeed of any other sensible Taste or Scent at all; but smooth, light, and pleasant upon the Tongue; such as the genuine Omphacine, and native Luca Olives afford, fit to allay the tartness of Vinegar, and other Acids, yet gently to warm and humectate where it passes. Some who have an aversion to Oyl, substitute fresh Butter in its stead; but 'tis so exceedingly clogging to the Stomach, as by no means to be allow'd.

III. Thirdly, That the Vinegar and other liquid Acids, perfectly clear, neither sowre, Vapid or spent; be of the best Wine Vinegar, whether Distill'd, or otherwise Aromatiz'd, and impregnated with the Infusion of Clove-gillyflowers, Elder, Roses, Rosemary, Nasturtium, &c. inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant.