Part 10

Attended the Unitarian Church and heard an eloquent and very unusual discourse from 1 Tim. 2 ch. and 4 verse by Mr. Pierpoint; all the tunes known to me. On coming away I heard a very noisy preacher, a Revivalist, the man with me in the stage yesterday; a plain, poor chapel, the poor blacks in the galleries. After the sermon and singing several times, they were invited into the Church; about 8 or 10 godly women and children enrolled themselves. Called upon young Monks, had a pleasant chat and afterwards a walk along the esplanade. The canal is cut 2 miles through rock to avoid the falls. Came over the ground where a young man had been murdered, two out of four persons were found guilty and ordered to be executed in a month. Heard Mr. Pierpoint again this evening from the text "Pure religion and undefiled," the very best sermon I ever heard--religion a science of duties, as we stand related to each other, head, heart and hands; the Lord's Prayer if changed into synonymous language would be designated only a good moral sermon.

Saw Mr. Hulme this evening.

MONDAY, JULY 7TH.

Perspired much in the night; got up and dried myself with a towel; not much alarmed as my pulse strong and regular; perhaps it beats high in the thought that I am now at the most distant point from home.

Mr. Hulme called upon me and walked towards the steam boats; presented me with a chart of the Ohio. Called upon Joseph Monks, he sat with me on the steamer, then left and sent me six bottles of cyder. I promised him to write about their family. Left at 12 instead of 10. The table drawn out in a curious manner, a snack consisting of tongue, ham, almonds and raisins. Dined about half past one.

A long political debate in which a poor Jacksonian came off sadly worsted; considerable commercial knowledge displayed, but evidently too speculative a spirit, and consequently credit much thought of. At six took some coffee of which I am never tired. So hot that I pulled off my coat and handkerchief. The evening very pleasant--sparks from the chimney enough to fire the boat, this nearly the case with the Mediterranean the large steamer I saw yesterday. A grand sky, beautifully reflected on the Ohio; millions of sparks from the boilers with flashes of lightning, afterwards almost one continued blaze with much thunder.

TUESDAY, JULY 8TH.

Rose at four having rested tolerably only; felt a weakness in the small of my back; breakfasted on coffee without milk, excepting a little given me by one of the passengers. Paid for passage 4 dollars including lunch, dinner, supper and breakfast. Found the sparks last night had burnt into the deck. Agreed with a fellow to carry my portmanteau to the Erin, another steamer for 25 cents, his own terms, but found it uncertain when she was going, therefore ordered the baggage to the hotel on the brow. The man wanted more but was silenced by the innkeeper who said it was enough for all day. Arrived at Cincinnati at eight A.M.

1500 hams hung up in one room plastered over with lime. A large foundry, 8 oxen drawing one tree. At one the mail came up going to Wheeling. Paid 6 dollars to Columbus; nobody but a French woman and her child for ten miles. Here at Reading whilst changing horses I got some most excellent bread, butter and milk for which I paid 12-1/2 cents. This seems a better conveyance than the old crazy steamer. Took a cup of buttermilk for which they would not receive anything. A truly corduroy road, that is logs of wood laid across the road. Nearly upset into the river by running against a tree. Arrived at Lebanon 1/4 before 7. This last stage to Wainville, the driver drove most furiously and the horses went like mad. Why should tin drop-spouts be used instead of wood or lead? Almost everywhere the footpaths in the streets are paved with bricks.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 9TH.

Got to Springfield at half past five, a restless trembling night; such roads and such furious driving as enough to break arms and legs, through pits of water after the logs failed. Pretty good land divided into small farms, woods rather than forests; rather flat and the road bad and muddy, still worse, exceeding any I ever saw and yet this is called a national road. Well there were no other passengers or we should have been hauled out. Got to Columbus, it was the last twenty miles, all mud, so that we could only walk most of the way. Coming into Columbus such a flood that fields of corn are spoiled, and the road, half a yard of granite washed away; the old bridge also washed away so that we had to be ferried. Paid to Wheeling 6-1/2 dollars. At the next stage I was informed my name was not entered as having paid my fare. During the night the coach stopt and I and the other passengers were desired to get out, the horses were completely set fast in the mud; after resting some time they made a further effort; we scrambled through the mud and got in; very surprising that the roads are not better protected by railing or walls, not even over the mountains or ridges.

THURSDAY, JULY 10TH.

Passed a nicely situated little town called Rushott at five. Only two passengers, therefore able to sleep pretty well. Arrived at Zanesville half past six, the last stage beautifully macadamised. Sour bread and poor coffee. Got them to allow my name to be entered for Wheeling as paid for. Arrived at Cambridge at twelve. The driver managed the drag chain by treading upon an iron lever. The last 20 miles very hilly. A large waggon drawn by horses with sets of bells. After walking I found the coach nearly filled so that I got on with the driver. Observed some coal breaking out on the top of one of the high hills; this is generally the case so that they tunnel out from the valleys and are not troubled with water. Arrived at this side of the Ohio 1/4 past nine P.M., too late to be ferried across, so that after taking the mail at Cincinnati at one o'clock to arrive at Wheeling in 48 hours, here, after 56 hours we are obliged to stop in a poor inn, and to take a bed with four others in the same room. These are the miseries of travelling; delays upon the road, especially being confined a day or two in some little uninteresting spot--so far, however, I have been pretty fortunate, and should not complain, but like all poor unreasonable mortals, the more we have, the more we wish to have. The last stage or two very hilly, covered as usual with forest. This I believe is the character of the country on both sides of the Ohio.

FRIDAY, JULY 11TH.

Rose soon after four and ferried across the Ohio in two places in consequence of an island; the ferry impelled across by means of a windlass letting down frame work into the water, and altering the position of the boat. When arrived at Wheeling hotel could hear of no boat till evening. Went again to bed; got up at nine, felt a little earache and not much appetite for breakfast, occasioned by disappointment at the delay. At one dined with improved appetite and actually eat an apple dumpling. Sat and read several newspapers without finding much from England; then read some good letters in the "North American Magazine"; felt in better spirits.

Took my place for Pittsburg, 3 dollars, visited a collection of wild beasts; amused by a monkey riding a Shetland pony, but most gratified by seeing a rhinoceros and elephant each four years old; the former had worn his teeth very much; both feed chiefly upon hay. The keeper puts his head twice a day into the lion's mouth, dangerous only as far as the animal being disturbed by some of the spectators. A camel or dromedary (only one hump) also four years old. Sailed from Wheeling 1/4 past seven; the evening most delightful, the air warm and fragrant, the sky remarkably clear; the stars and moon appeared nearer. Found from conversation with the Captain and others that Tuesday or Wednesday have been considered very warm, also more thunder and lightning than they had often seen.

SATURDAY, JULY 12TH.

Rose at two, got into the stage at Steubenville, at three the coach quite full; ferried across the Ohio; passed through Paris; the country is very hilly and the soil poor. Stopped at Florence to breakfast, the remainder of the way hilly. On approaching Pittsburgh reminded of home by the coal and smoke; arrived at one o'clock. More than twenty steamers lying in the river, here the Ohio is joined by the Alleghany, the latter a much clearer river. In the stage met with an intelligent young man on his way to Erie, so concluded to stop at the same hotel. Paid to Wasson (?) half way to Erie 3 dollars. Walked to some iron works and saw them make rails very quickly, also some cannon boring. Walked across the aqueduct 400 yards long, cost 112,000 dollars. Called at the Post Office, but again disappointed.

Very sultry this evening, and I feel as if not likely to sleep; this is one of the depressing periods. After coffee I took a walk to the Catholic Church situated on an eminence. Pittsburgh is in a valley surrounded on all sides by verdant hills, and smoky as one of our English towns. This evening is so serene that the moon does not appear half its usual distance from the earth. Feel much relieved and refreshed by the walk and meditation. The first fence I had seen is here, and this by way of protecting the road, also the first time I had seen any horses' tails docked.

SUNDAY, JULY 13TH.

Got up at half past four: the stage nearly full. Observed almost the first potatoes in this neighbourhood. Crossed the Alleghany by means of a steam ferry. Paid for breakfast 25 cents. Arrived at Butler at one; hilly most of the way; a good many Dutch settlers in this part. Several large ant hills. Paid for the dinner, very good veal cutlets and excellent coffee, only 25 cents, the cheapest dinner I have had in America. The interesting young man mentioned yesterday is a Mr. Kennedy, a painter at Meadville, a Presbyterian; said they had in their town a Mr. Channing, an Unitarian and nephew to Dr. C. but not considered so clever. The coach we travelled in to-day is almost new, cost 520 dollars; this day fortnight in crossing the creek this side the Alleghany River, it was washed down the stream nearly half a mile rolling over all that way; only one passenger and the driver remained with it, and both escaped; had all the other passengers remained in, it is supposed the accident would not have happened. More like a Sabbath evening, the people seated at their log houses reading. The moon very splendid and apparently much nearer the earth than with us in England. Paid for the remainder of my passage to Erie 3 dollars; also for tea 25 cents.

MONDAY, JULY 14TH.

Passed a very restless night, scarcely sleeping at all. One of the passengers sick and he feared it was the cholera. This made me feel uncomfortable and I wished to sit with the driver, but was deterred by being told of Kennedy's brother, who had the year before fallen from the same stage and been killed on the spot, supposed to have been asleep.

Got to Meadville situated on the rising part of an extended vale. Here I parted with Mr. K. and his sick companion who is a paper maker. An old intelligent Irishman who had come out thirty years ago, and had done very well, was one of the passengers; he spoke of his domestic afflictions and particularly the death of his wife. Very warm but luckily only 4 passengers. The last drive of 15 miles has been very warm and a rough road, yet the horses do not appear much distressed; got a glass of buttermilk. Dined at Waterford; paid 25 cents. The stage filled; the sun had got to my side of the coach; a slow drive and choked with dust, by far the most disagreeable ride I have had. Got to Erie at half past four, told there was no boat to Buffalo till morning. I went upstairs to wash and put on a clean shirt, and was then informed of a boat, but I could not get ready in time; though perhaps it was only a trick of the innkeeper, it may be as well to get a good night's repose; without now and then a check I should in uninteresting places be hurrying on too fast and knock myself up. Fell in with a pleasing intelligent young man; now that they were out of debt I said they might improve the public roads--he said grants were occasionally made, but were objected to as unconstitutional.

TUESDAY, JULY 15TH.

Got up at half past six, felt restored and now think it better than pushing on in the steamboat last night. The young man confirmed the old Irishman's account of the student at Meadville, viz. that the young one we had seen would be at his studies in the morning, and in the afternoon discharge his board by working as a blacksmith. Accompanied on board the steamer by the innkeeper; found the wind favourable; sailed soon after 8 A.M. not a nice boat and the engine out of order, so that we shall be late before we get into Buffalo. Read in a periodical belonging to one of the passengers a terrible story written by Lord Morpeth. A most delightful breeze on the lake; how different to yesterday when stewed on the coach and covered with dust. Had some good singing on board by Methodists; got out at Portland and had a most delicious bath before dinner. Called at Dunkirk, also at Silver Creek; prevailed upon the ladies (Methodists) to sing again; paid for passage two dollars and 1/2 for dinner. Read a good deal in the "Temperance Intelligencer," in which a correspondent attempted to prove that the wine approved in Scripture was not fermented; another disapproves of the use of cyder and recommends the cutting down of apple trees. Landed at Buffalo at 8 P.M. a very pleasant sail. Some trouble in getting my portmanteau to the inn; an offer from Irishmen who did not know the place. Here informed of a change in the English Ministry.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 16TH.

Rose at six and felt somewhat languid, having never I suppose had time for such feelings. No walking in America; taken down by stages to the boats however short the distance. Bought a pennyworth of cracked hickory nuts. A delightful breeze. Met on the steamer an English gentleman, his lady and child. Set off in a stage and left Buffalo at eleven A.M.; found it a pleasant drive mostly along the banks of the river. Arrived at Niagara soon after four P.M. Immediately set off to the Falls; engaged till nearly seven without thinking of food, though I had eaten nothing since six this morning. Much struck with the Bridge over the Rapids to the Goat Island. Then walked towards the ferry, an immense sheet of water though only a small part compared with the Horse Shoe; returned and crossed over to Goat Island down Biddle's Staircase between the two cascades; afterwards to the bridge that overhangs the tremendous Fall, a huge piece of rock below occasionally visible when the foam was blown away; the vast clouds of mist rising very considerably into the air, and the stream for a great distance as white as milk. Ascended the tower, whence there is a more extensive view of the Rapids above as well as the river below. Again, after tea I went over the same ground and had a moonlight view of this most wonderful spectacle.