Part 11

THURSDAY, JULY 17TH.

Rose before six, again visited the Falls. Left soon after eight; paid the porter 12-1/2 cents, but he wanted more for cleaning my shoes. A favourable passage across as the wind blew the spray upwards; the water in parts much agitated; the ferryman demanded six cents extra for my baggage; nobody to carry it forward up the hill to the hotel; a man who came in the boat offered to carry it for 50 cents; this I refused and set off with it myself. I had not carried it more than two-thirds up the hill before I repented; the man came up and agreed for 25 cents; as it proved further than I expected I gave him a glass in addition. After changing my flannel shirt and getting a glass of milk I set off to the Falls, found a party going under the cascade; undressed and put on trousers, an oil-case jacket with a belt and a pair of rough shoes, and descended the staircase. There were two ladies but they were placed under the care of the guide. The rock projects amazingly, the path is narrow and rather slippery being constantly wet with the spray; at one place we were told to keep our heads down and hold our breath. I must say it proved more of an adventure than I expected; it resembled a tremendous shower of rain blown at us with the utmost fury; nothing much is to be seen, and I scarcely think it worth the trouble; the visit might be rendered much safer by means of a chain fastened alongside of the rock. A more irregular confused hotel, I never was in. Walked to the Falls alone by moonlight.

FRIDAY, JULY 18TH.

Rose half past five; paid six cents for shoes; walked to the Fall, still more magnificent than ever; green where there is most water; the whole Horseshoe filled with vapour rising a vast height, and at the bottom the water is rolled away one complete mass of foam, white as snow, too dazzling to behold; the spray rises in beautiful clouds and falls in gentle drops nearly a mile off. Paid for Niagara one dollar. Left at eleven, called to see the Whirlpool formed by the river going into a bay; then Brock's monument 170 steps; giving a fine view of the lake. Allowed 2-1/2 dollars for book and map. The stage gave way on going out, found the leather spring had broken, but we managed to go on slowly to Niagara. Bathed in Lake Ontario, then dined for 50 cents. Found one of our passengers to be Major Penn, who had been a good while in the East Indies and other parts of the world; also a young Irishman, a Canadian and an American. Sailed 1/4 before six; arrived at York at half past nine, went on shore to buy "The Tourist," and a map, but found the shops closed; returned and went to bed. The berths double and if fully occupied would be very disagreeable. Felt tired in the knee-joints, supposed from descending the staircase at the Falls and going up Brock's monument. Got a comfortable cup of tea, bread good, etc. Paid 6 dollars for passage including board. More satisfaction here than waiting for the Great Britain to-morrow; our passengers only about 8 or 10 and the cabin spacious and neat.

SATURDAY, JULY 19TH.

Passed a good night and rose a little before seven. Breakfast at 8 on tea and toast with some good veal cutlets. Read a Canada paper containing rather more Bristol news than the American papers, also a conceited account of the Falls. A very pleasant breeze. An intelligent gentleman from New York explained the reason for such excessive labour in this country, that a man was better rewarded, and after getting a few dollars he was stimulated to further exertion, and again he was able to make more of these savings by further investments or speculations. He thought there was much less learning among the young men in America; they became impatient to go into business; all at 21 years feel independent and able to get on, and consequently little under the control of the parents unless wealthy.

Left Toronto this morning at seven, arrived at Port Hope half past four; got to Cobourg half past six, went on shore and bathed again in the Lake Ontario, found the water cooler. A group of young women with fresher complexions than I had seen before in America. A head wind and the water considerably agitated. Walked the deck till after nine with two young men that are purposing going to Quebec.

SUNDAY, JULY 20TH.

During the night the boat pitched and rolled more than I expected. Got up at half past five, found some difficulty in shaving and a little qualmish. Passed two islands covered with wood. Made a poor breakfast, the milk had turned sour and I did not like the egg substitute. Went on shore at Kingston; entered a Sunday School but heard only some noisy instruction; then entered the English Church but service not commenced; then a Catholic Church, had some drops sprinkled upon me by the priest. Looked through a new steamer which was being built, a double wheel and the paddles alternately. A great quantity of wheat swept off the deck in our steamer. A great deal of money squandered here in barracks, forts, etc.; two ships rotting upon the stocks. The Rideau Canal comes to this place, only good as furnishing employment, but what becomes of old England? Passed the 1000 islands, rocky and covered with wood. An old Canadian with an elegant bag for tobacco studded with beads. Very sleepy and dull most of this afternoon. At seven came to Brockville a pretty little town situated on rising ground. Arrived at Prescott soon after nine. Cholera reported to be very bad at Quebec, ninety a day dying; still I shall go on, hoping for the best.

MONDAY, JULY 21ST.

Rose at four, got some new milk as a good foundation; paid 1/- English for bed, walked over the new steamboat with air-tubes on each side and two small helms attached to each, a 1-1/2 yd. long and 1/3 deep turning nearly upon the centre, 180 feet long and about 27 wide; two engines. Left at six, breakfasted outside; had a beautiful view of the bank and island. Paid 1/9 and 7 dollars for passage to Montreal. The sail most delightful; in some places the surface became suddenly disturbed, one side a whirlpool, the other boiling up. The Durham boats, as they are called, are drawn up the river by means of six oxen. Cornwall 1/4 past 11. One of the Durham boats drawn by two horses belly deep in the river because the banks are grassy and soft. Hazel trees different to ours; a good deal of nuts. Passed a very splendid Rapid, called at St. Regis, an Indian village; three young Indians nearly naked, one of them caught a halfpenny thrown a considerable distance, then jumped into the river; sailed with us in our boat then plunged into the water towards the shore; they had very black hair and were very brown. An old female Indian came to beg; also a canoe with two females and a little one. Prevailed on one of the females to sing: thought it a Catholic chant in the Indian language. Saw two canoes all of one piece of wood. Another delightful drive along the banks of the St. Lawrence; more Rapids; also a beautiful garden, almost the first I have seen since my visit to America. Arrived at Montreal at nine. The two last days have been spent delightfully.

TUESDAY, JULY 22ND.

Did not rise till seven, having dreamed a good deal about my late dear father. Read some newspapers; then joined Mr. Bradner in a gig up the mountain (Mount Royal); went the wrong way, so that we missed a good deal of the view of the city and river but ascended again; not so pleasant on account of the dust. Walked to the Hotel Dieu to see some ruins, but it proved only a hospital for sick people. Walked into the Cathedral, Notre Dame, a very large building, two galleries on each side and the seats below raised up from the altar. Got back and then walked to the Exchange News Room, read a good many English newspapers but found nothing particularly interesting; thence again to the Cathedral. Just before dinner, four o'clock, I was informed that the steamer was not going to Quebec; could not believe till I went down; they told me the agents had sent orders not to go in consequence of so few passengers, but that they certainly should go to-morrow, when they expected more passengers as there were races at Three Rivers. I and Ready from Bermuda sauntered about till dusk. This is one of the miseries of travelling, to be delayed in some little uninteresting place, or after you have seen all that is worth notice, of which there is very little in Montreal; fortunately the hotel is good enough, everything remarkably clean.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 23RD.

Rose at seven, no inducement to get up sooner. Called at the stage office to enquire about the Post Office and if they knew any Mr. Webster; was told he had left last night, tired of the place, no wonder! Employed all day reading the newspapers; an Indian came down by the wharf in a canoe to sell, asked ten dollars for it; found Major Penn, London; Messrs. White and Livingstone came up. The heat at 4 o'clock 96 degrees, but have passed the day very quietly in a shaded news-room. In addition to the St. George there is the Canadian steamer the Eagle so that I shall surely get away. Was informed that the weather has been unusually hot since the beginning of July, without rain. Whilst in the news-room the chief conversation was the cholera; one of the gentlemen at table said the fear of it had driven away 30 or 40 people from this house; surprised to find myself so comfortable under all these circumstances. Went on board the St. George steamer at eight, a noble vessel beautifully fitted up. On setting off a woman was taken on shore, a young man looked very dismal, and said she was taken with the cholera; she proved to have got into a wrong boat which I took care to inform the young man.

THURSDAY, JULY 24TH.

Rose at five having rested very well, though I suspected the bed-clothes not being dry. Went on shore at Three Rivers and into the market; Indians selling coloured baskets; a good supply of eggs and vegetables, also square lumps of sugar made from the maple. Bought a few red currants, notwithstanding the cholera; a number of canoes with different kinds of fish; the eels thicker than ours; just in time for the steamer, will not cut it so fine again. This morning almost chilly; yesterday at 4, 95 degrees and at six, 81. The shores on each side are lined with neat cottages. Good coffee and bread. Soon after nine the eccentric collar of one of the engines broke, so that we shall be some hours late; the other engine is also out of order, so that we may not arrive before 8 or 9. Luckily both were set to rights, and the tide is in our favour so that we now hope to get in at 3. Arrived at Quebec at two and hurried to the Post Office. Startled at sister's letter having a black wafer, but was greatly delighted to find all well both in it and in C. D.'s. The weather intensely hot. On enquiring for T. Marsden at the P.O. found his son lived next door to the Albion Hotel, and kept a small druggist's shop; I was shown upstairs; William and young wife with her mother, who had come from New York on a visit with another daughter were there. William looking better but very thin, which they said had been the case during the last three weeks in consequence of so much sickness; the cholera very bad, 29 deaths yesterday. Thomas lives about 1-1/2 miles off. Dined at the Hotel (Albion), walked with William to the hospital and then to his sister's; the little girl sang for us.

FRIDAY, JULY 25TH.

Rose at six. A good night's rest having supped chiefly upon milk. A thunderstorm at four reconciled us to it, in hopes of its driving away the cholera, which after all I cannot but think is exaggerated. Took a calash with young Fred Andrews, a most intelligent child of 8 years. Went over some romantic country, and in two hours came to an open space on the side of a mountain covered with trees. Fred pointed to his grandmother; she did not know me but was greatly affected. Found Thomas engaged in a small room teaching 26 boys and girls, some coming three miles. He did not know me; but was not so much altered as I expected. His wife soon told me of T.'s irregularities which caused him to leave the school at Quebec, and they had come to this wild place to break his connections; their neighbours gone except two or three the most villainous low Irish. If she left home some of the dram sellers would fetch away hay to pay T.'s shots. After dinner T. and I set off to Beauport Lake; sailed across, caught a nice trout but no other fish, and were only allowed to use the line. A great quantity of raspberries, and there had been many strawberries. His income at one time had been 25 dollars per week. He had received 100 dollars for tuning the organ at the Cathedral.

SATURDAY, JULY 26TH.

Made arrangements for setting off to the Falls (Montmorency Falls) at six, but the rain prevented us, almost the first disappointment in all my journey. It cleared up and we set off, a party of five to the Falls; a pleasant drive with several pleasing views of the city; disappointed with the Cascade; the grass wet, and not able to get to the foot; a strong current going to a saw mill. Returned soon after twelve; walked with T. Marsden's wife to the Potters' field to see Ainsworth's grave stone, but did not find it. Then to the Citadel whence I had a magnificent view though not quite clear; and descended by the tremendous staircase, 365 steps with an inclined plane to wind up stone. Crossed over the river in a four horse ferry to see the Indians settled there, but did not find them. On my return the boat had sailed and I was rowed in a canoe by three children; got to the inn a little after four. Found two pairs of stockings missing; got 2/- allowed. Paid 1-1/4 dollars for going to Montmorency. Rain as we set off to the steamboat: sailed at seven on my way home. Between 30 and 40 sat down to tea and coffee, the latter very good. Had some conversation with Mr. Livingstone; found he was a large store-keeper dealing in silks, woollens and cottons.

SUNDAY, JULY 27TH.

Very noisy people during the night, apparently great confusion and danger in passing the Rapids. Rose 1/4 past six, hazy almost the first time. Introduced by W. M. to a Mr. Buchanan a surveyor. 160 emigrants on the Canada, 12 unable to pay their fare, and their boxes taken as security. A heavy shower of rain cooled the air. Arrived at Montreal at half past four; saw the steamer sailing off to La Prairie though the Captain told me it did not go on Sunday evenings till five. Several of us were very anxious to be getting on to La Prairie; engaged a boat for two dollars more; had a written agreement. Very much troubled not to find the lady and her son and daughter ready for the boat; set off to meet them, came back determined to go on with Mr. Ready as it was getting late. The boatman came to tell me they were all waiting of me; got my luggage on board; a very narrow boat; found a good deal of agitation in the Rapids and the water nearly coming over, but we were all pretty experienced in sailing. On landing was surprised to find the four passengers with their luggage and four boatmen had crossed the St. Lawrence in a canoe. Two calashes were brought up, also a stage with four horses which had been sent in consequence of the steamer not waiting as they expected a signal from the Canada. The Captain behaved very ill, first promising to be in at four, and then telling us it did not sail till five. However, we engaged to go on to St. John's for two dollars. Arrived after twelve.

MONDAY, JULY 28TH.

Rested very well and rose at seven; a misty morning. Saw some fish, perch, etc., just taken. Sailed at six in the Franklin, the very nicest boat I have ever seen. A delightful morning; leaving the sick cities, Quebec and Montreal, and hastening home in good health and spirits. The Lake Champlain, only about 80 yards wide, and the shores low, covered with brushwood. Paid for passage to Ticonderoga 4-1/2 dollars. The dinner very good, five or six servants with turban caps. The dessert consisted of nuts, almonds, walnuts and raisins; all the spoons, etc., of silver; altogether the very neatest boat I ever saw. The Captain's room fitted with excellent portraits, in another part all sorts of advertisements, with a beautiful desk for the public use. Asked a dollar for a bottle of porter, then said half a dollar. Took a pint of port wine, charged one dollar; an impudent fellow with one of the waiters saw the bottle, he filled up his glass and drank it off without once looking at me. At Plattsburg on Lake Champlain an American officer came on board and allowed our portmanteaus to pass, on condition they contained only clothes. Very delightful scenery; beautiful islands with distant mountains on each side; a broad road up the mountain; an avalanche. Went on shore at Burlington and had a delightful bathe, the water pleasantly warm and a sandy slope. Quite a crowd at tea so had to attend the second course. Lay down in a berth till 12; then looked after luggage which I found to be all safely locked up; everything managed in the most admirable style; the sailors all in uniform and the boat let down with a rope, so that passengers could be landed with scarcely stopping the boat. At Ticonderoga the greatest hurry for beds; an offer made to pay for double-bedded rooms, so resigned myself to chairs: afterwards had a comfortable bedroom.

TUESDAY, JULY 29TH.

A pleasant walk before breakfast, paid 1-1/4 dollar for lodging, breakfast, and fare to Adirondack. Visited the ruined fort at Ticonderoga. Changed seats with a Mr. E. Tech--arrived at the foot of Lake George at 10. Walked towards Ticonderoga and returned by water; two saws at work cutting planks; went down below the falls; the river choked with bits of wood from the saw-mills. In descending on the other side two Indian boys were fishing. The mountain is covered with pines and also with bold rocks. We were told the highest mountain took fire about two years ago, and continued in flames more than a week; the dead pines are still remaining. The latter part of the Lake more interesting; several islands.

Arrived at Caldwell a little after seven. Paid the Captain 1-1/2 dollars he not having been able to give me silver out of a 5 dollar note; he then recommended me to be cautious about notes. After much trouble about beds we had tea with old bread, butter, plenty of sweets, also whinberries, etc. At length I prevailed upon a party to leave early and breakfast at Glen Falls. Went to bed before nine.