Part 9

Dined at Brookville, the first Blue Ridge Mountain, good plain dinner with excellent milk and honey. Walked up the mountain, saw great quantities of whinberries; a delightful stream of water near the summit.

Arrived at Staunton at seven, very sleepy the last stage; sometimes the driver and I asleep at the same time, and the road very hilly, quite wonderful that I should have arrived safe. Many of the houses here are built as in Switzerland; trees are just squared and notched, or dove-tailed at the ends; sometimes the interstices are filled with clay or mortar. The wild vine climbs to the top of the highest trees.

SATURDAY, JUNE 28TH.

Rose at four having slept very soundly, a natural consequence of only two hours the night before and riding outside all day. Disappointed about getting a seat with the driver, which was occupied by a coloured man whom they would not permit to go inside. Found the passengers truly American, asking many questions and lauding the country. Passed through a forest chiefly of oak. A branch of walnut brushed across the coach and left a perfume behind. Paid for supper and bed 75 cents. Arrived 1/4 past seven A.M. Paid for breakfast 50 cents, the usual price in this town because not much frequented except at certain seasons to the spring. Breakfasted at Jenning's Gap. Just before ascending a steep part of the mountain I got out to walk but it began to rain and I had to resume my seat. The streams of mud through which we dashed were quite astounding. On descending we found no rain. Dined at Charrodale on venison taken in the mountains, 50 cents. One of our travellers, a German who plays on the guitar and the pianoforte, along with three others; he sang the "Swiss Boy" to us.

I here mounted the roof of the coach as the blacks were not permitted to enter it; before we got to the foot of the mountain there came on a terrible storm of thunder and lightning with tremendous rain. It cleared up and we had a beautiful drive over the mountain before descending to the warm springs. We descended safely, if the drag chain had snapt we should have been thrown down the precipice. Got to Warm Springs at seven; took coffee. Then took the bath which seemed very hot, though only called the Warm Springs, 96 degrees. Felt very warm in bed though not disagreeably so. Most of the trees are oak and pine.

SUNDAY, JUNE 29TH.

Slept soundly after the bath so that I did not hear the thunder. The bedroom I hope the smallest I shall meet with; got up at half past four but not able to shave; obliged to sleep in my shirt, as the night-shirt was made wet by crushing a pineapple into the bag. On the road I stept down to feel the Hot Spring which was hot indeed, I did not learn the degrees. Breakfasted at Maurice Hill. Drove over mountains chiefly covered with oaks and pines; the chief danger in crossing these mountains is the snapping of the drag chain. Dined nearly one mile from Sulphur Springs; a good deal of company; ran down to the spring, the water a sulphur taste. Took leave of fellow passengers consisting of an elderly lady and her daughter of the name of Parker of Philadelphia, a family from Baltimore; a gentleman about sixty with his wife and two daughters, one not more than seven years, and a middle-aged lady born in London. We had spent two or three days very pleasantly and parted reluctantly. I received an invitation to their house. Set off to Lewisburgh and arrived a little before six; a little thriving place. The hill before descending to the White Sulphur Spring I find is the back-bone, as the streams flow each way; eastward into the Atlantic, and westward into the Mississippi. For some time past the negroes have been so numerous that whites have appeared rather strange. Some of the trees that are hollow are fired to drive out the squirrels, and others have been fired by lightning and others split by the same means. A double-bedded room.

MONDAY, JUNE 30TH.

Rose at half past three. Found my companion to be a member of Congress. There were two others in the stage, also a pleasing lady, wife to one of the members, also a young man, H. C. Hart, a midshipman, who was returning from a sail round the world, also a lively Frenchman. Breakfasted at Kamley. Dined at Deak.

The road as usual very hilly, covered with oak, pines, etc., also a curious honeysuckle and rhododendrons; the Hawk's Nest a jutting rock, 1100 feet high and a magnificent view of the river which does not appear 20 yards wide and is more than 200. Also the hills covered with trees, those below looking mere shrubs.

As we came near the Falls of Kanawha the bridge had been washed down, therefore we were ferried over; the road for some time carried alongside the rocks overhanging the river. Arrived 1/4 before ten at Kanawha, got supper and to bed at 1/4 past ten, to be called up at half past three. Eight beds in a large room; the window wide open, but I selected one of the beds the farthest off and secured my trousers under my pillow. The names of the two M.P.'s were Mr. Doon and Marshall McLatcher. Here I had the first introduction to mosquitoes, but they behaved rather mercifully, or perhaps my blood was not to their taste.

TUESDAY, JULY 1ST.

Rose half past three; dressed without a glass. On the road observed two little bears chained; they are fed one or two years and then eaten; these were about two months old. Also saw a quantity of pigs. A beautiful drive along the Kanawha. Indians farm on this side; mountains of fine timber on the other. Breakfasted 16 miles from the Falls, on good coffee and honey. Plenty of bucks' horns hung in the yard. Another young bear chained in a yard to be fed and eaten. 65,000 pigs driven last year through one turnpike gate. Large salt-works, the brine is pumped up and evaporated. Good coals are drawn out of the mountains on both sides of the valley, fine springs of gas escaping out of the surface which ignited on applying a live coal. The negroes said it would continue burning a week or two unless put out by rain.

Waited at Charleston nearly an hour and then found the coach filled with passengers, my seat particularly hot and disagreeable, so that I got outside; the driver refused to have more than one with him. I insisted on the seat, at length the other person went upon the roof, and I had a pleasant ride through hilly country covered with forest trees. On descending the hills one of the horses ran the coach wheel a little on the bank, so as nearly to throw it down the precipice. Again we forded the river in consequence of the bridge being washed away. Arrived at Guyandotte on the Ohio at half past eleven, got some coffee and entered the mail steamboat, where I slept pretty well notwithstanding the lightning and the shaking of the vessel.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 2ND.

Rose half past five at the sound of a bell so that the beds could be adjusted before breakfast; shaved and washed my mouth in iced water. Walked on shore to Portsmouth; saw a basket of offal beef thrown into the river; a warm morning, the ice on the butter steaming, 17 dishes of hot meat besides vegetables for the people. Paid to Maysville including breakfast and bed 3 dollars. Very much pleased with the cabin boy singing about "Father fighting for him and liberty," "Tennessee and liberty."

Arrived at Maysville at half past one.

Took a julep consisting of 1-1/2 glass of wine with plenty of sugar and ice, also several herbs, mint, etc., mingled together, making a richly flavoured beverage. Took some dinner but found nothing good but some cucumber and onion. Paid fare to Lexington, 4 dollars. Passed yesterday a chapel made of squared pines dove-tailed together. At sunset I and Mr. Hart the young midshipman, went and bathed in the Ohio, most delightfully warm and the current very strong. The river rose last winter but one, 63 feet.

Maysville, a very pretty place to stop a day or two. The beach is high and consequently has a fine view of the steam boats, which are often passing up and down this noble river.

THURSDAY, JULY 3RD.

Rose soon after six as the stage to proceed in does not come in till eight. Slept pretty well till about twelve, when a negro came to put down the window as he said a storm was coming; presently I heard thunder which became louder and was followed by heavy rain. At the hotel here, three fans were made to move overhead to cool and drive away the flies. It was pulled by a nice black girl. Paid for dinner, supper, bed and breakfast one dollar. The ferryboat moved across by means of six horses revolving round. No cyder to be had here, everyone drinking spirits or ale, the julep is called a hailstorm. Passed over some of the best and worst roads in the U.S. some limestone, and macadam and limestone. Came to the blue or sulphur springs resembling Harrogate; took some lemon juice in the water. Arrived at Hillsburgh at half past seven, having had nothing to eat since breakfast at seven. At Paris I parted with Mr. and Mrs. Marshall, and Mr. Hart the young midshipman, with considerable regret. Mr. M. had to explain on the way to his constituents. Mr. McLatcher continued with me to Lexington where we arrived at ten o'clock. After getting some coffee I hastened to bed, found three beds in the room, only one occupied. On the way yesterday we found a good deal of hemp grown, and much of it manufactured into bagging, etc. The land rolling or undulated is generally well cultivated.

FRIDAY, JULY 4TH.

Rose soon after six in expectation of finding out my old friend R. M.; rather disappointed to find from the innkeeper who is an Irishman, that the Monks were dispersed, only one remaining in the neighbourhood. He offered to walk with me to make further enquiry. At daybreak the drums announced the Day of Independence, which I find is to be celebrated in an extraordinary manner at Frankford. A half-brother of Richard Monks was sent for by the innkeeper; by him I learned the melancholy news of his brother's death which happened in Sept. 1832. He had left Lexington and settled at Louisville 3 or 4 months, then bought the half of a brother's estate opposite Troy on the Ohio; there his daughter married and settled at ----. Another son at Louisville keeping a coffee house. Walked with Mr. Monks to the College and heard two orations, vehement and abusive of the old country, lauding France and even Spain, the latter on account of Isabella who patronized Columbus, eulogised Bonaparte and declaimed against Russia for the treatment of the Poles; several negroes were peeping at the three doorways, but not allowed to enter or even to listen to an oration in favour of liberty.

Paid 5-1/2 dollars to Louisville. At home I am considered a quick eater, but here I have not half done before most have left the room. A gentleman I met here said the labour of the negroes in Louisiana cultivating sugar was excessive, so that the women have hardly any children. A factory 5 yards by 8, two storeys, 4 windows on one side, turned by three miserable blind horses. Disappointed that R. Monks' brother did not call, as he kept me waiting all afternoon. Slept two or three hours till the stage left at 12.

SATURDAY, JULY 5TH.

Awakened at half past eleven luckily; only two passengers but these took special care of themselves, lying along the seat sleeping all the way. The road exceedingly rough, so as to prevent me having a minute's sleep. Arrived at Frankford at six A.M., a very crowded inn. Never saw more drinking going on, all sorts of spirits, etc.; broken glass on the floor and an immense spitting box. A good road most of the way, limestone macadamised. A good many beech trees with some vines as thick as my leg climbing to the top. Only two passengers from Frankford and an agreeable breeze, so that I could not have done better in my own carriage. On coming out of Frankford we passed over a high old crazy bridge; changeable weather, thunder and rain and still very oppressively hot between the gleams. Arrived at Louisville 1/4 past five P.M. and felt less tired considering that I had not been in any bed but moving on for some days. Went to enquire for Mr. Hulme but found the canal office two miles off, therefore set about to find young Monks, but could learn nothing till I called at the Post Office where I got the information. Took coffee, then called upon him. Found him very busy supplying with spirits, and gave him Mr. Brandreth's letter and promised to call again when he was not so busy. Retired to bed at half past eight.

SUNDAY, JULY 6TH.

Rose half past six, dream about my dear father; got a good breakfast with plenty of good milk. Took a hack to Mr. Hulme, at the canal office, for which I paid 25 cents. Heard Mr. H. was at Louisville but expected immediately as they were repairing one of the locks. Shewn through a very large steamer, the Mediterranean, 600 tons capable of 800, and boilers 250 tons, consumes 36 tons of wood daily, sometimes goes to New Orleans in five days, 1500 miles.