Part 9

Watch on the left for the turnoff to the Cottonwoods Campground, which is about 5.4 miles from the visitors’ center. This spot lives up to its name in that there are many cottonwoods. It is a good place for Common Flicker, Blue Jay, American Crow, Black-capped Chickadee, Red-eyed and Warbling Vireos, Northern (Bullock’s) Oriole (rare), Black-headed Grosbeak, and Lazuli Bunting. In the summer, there are lots of people in addition to the birds.

A better area can be reached by continuing for 1.0 mile, turning left, and then immediately right to the picnic area. This spot is not only well-wooded, but also it has good patches of secondary growth. Look here for Common Flicker, Willow Flycatcher, Western Pewee, Blue Jay, Black-capped Chickadee, Gray Catbird, Brown Thrasher, Red-eyed and Warbling Vireos, Black-and-white and Yellow Warblers, Ovenbird, Yellow-breasted Chat, American Redstart, Black-headed Grosbeak, Lazuli Bunting, Rufous-sided Towhee, and Chipping Sparrow.

The Jones Creek Trail (1.3 miles past the picnic area) passes through vegetation typical of the park. There is also an excellent stand of sage. Although not many birds are seen along the trail, it is good for Sharp-tailed Grouse, Rufous-sided Towhee, and Field Sparrow.

Most of the park is occupied by short-grass prairie spotted with occasional large sagebrush flats. Many of the rolling hills and ravines are covered with junipers.

In open areas, watch for Swainson’s and Ferruginous Hawks; Prairie Falcon; Golden Eagle; Sharp-tailed Grouse; Black-billed Magpie; Mountain Bluebird; Rufous-sided Towhee (brushier areas); Field, Grasshopper, and Lark Sparrows; McCown’s and Chestnut-collared Longspurs; Bison; White-tailed Jackrabbit; Mule Deer; Gopher Snake; and Prairie Rattlesnake. Check in the vicinity of eroded buttes for Poor-will (rare), Say’s Phoebe, and Rock Wren.

These badlands are fairly good in winter, mainly for raptors and western vagrants. Look for Northern Goshawk (rare), Rough-legged Hawk, Prairie Falcon (rare), and Bald (rare) and Golden Eagles. Townsend’s Solitaires usually winter, and Clark’s Nutcrackers and Gray-crowned Rosy Finches sometimes wander over. In fact, 200 of the latter species were found on a recent Medora Christmas Count. Other species found here are Sharp-tailed Grouse, Ring-necked Pheasant, Great Horned Owl, Hairy and Downy Woodpeckers, Horned Lark, Black-billed Magpie, Black-capped Chickadee, White-breasted and Red-breasted (uncommon) Nuthatches, American Robin, Bohemian and Cedar Waxwings, Northern Shrike, Evening Grosbeak, Purple Finch, Common Redpoll, and American Tree Sparrow.

After visiting the park, it is easy to see how Theodore Roosevelt developed such a keen interest in conservation from having lived here.

NORTHWESTERN NORTH DAKOTA

This sector is known chiefly for its large concentrations of breeding waterfowl and for its prairie specialties, such as the Baird’s Sparrow. The density of nesting waterbirds (not just ducks, but also grebes, cormorants, herons, etc.) is truly spectacular, and the number and abundance of prairie specialties would warm the heart of any lister. Another dimension to this sector (in addition to the lakes, potholes, prairie grasslands, and wooded coulees) is the badlands habitat with many western species at the edge of their ranges.

Because of the unique blend of habitats, the northwestern sector is strongly recommended to the visiting birder for top priority. If you are limited in time, a tour of the North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park and of the refuges around Kenmare should enable you to see most of the state’s specialties. While a visit between the months of September and April could be more profitably spent in some other part of the state, you could hardly go wrong in visiting here between May and August.

a) Dunn County

As mentioned, badlands habitat does exist in the northwest sector. Its easternmost extension is found around the Little Missouri State Park. To reach it, go north from the town of Killdeer on State Highway 22 for about 17 miles, turn right (east) at the sign for the park, and proceed to the camping area.

This is still a primitive area, and the campground is not developed. All trails are for hiking and horseback riding only. If your time is limited, forget this spot and go on to the North unit of Roosevelt Park. However, if you enjoy the peace and solitude of primitive areas, this is the place for you.

The park has not been birded much, so it is hard to say what you may find. Judging from the habitat, almost any badlands-type bird could be found. Some of the likely ones include Say’s Phoebe, Black-billed Magpie, Mountain Bluebird, and Lazuli Bunting.

b) McKenzie County

One of the most interesting and unique places to bird in the state has to be the North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial. Most of the western species which inhabit the south unit can be found here also, and most birders who have visited both units agree that the north unit is better. This may be true partly because people-pressure is greater in the south unit, which lies right along the interstate.

To reach the park, go south from Watford City on U.S. Highway 85 for about 15 miles and turn right (west) at the sign. The headquarters are at the entrance.

The most productive birding spot is Squaw Creek Campgrounds, which is 5.1 miles from the headquarters. There are large trees (mostly cottonwoods) as well as an ample understory in many places. Breeding species include Common Flicker (both Red-shafted and Yellow-shafted, as well as many hybrids), Downy Woodpecker, Willow Flycatcher, Western Pewee (rare), Black-capped Chickadee, Brown Thrasher, Gray Catbird, Red-eyed and Warbling Vireos, Black-and-white Warbler, Ovenbird, Yellow-breasted Chat, American Redstart, Lazuli Bunting, Black-headed Grosbeak, Rufous-sided Towhee (spotted race), and Field Sparrow (open areas adjacent to the campgrounds). This is one of the most consistent locations in the state for finding the chat, bunting, and grosbeak. By making a careful check of the cottonwoods, you should be able to turn up several Common Nighthawks, which rest on the more horizontal limbs during the day.

Besides providing good nesting habitat, the wooded areas and thickets along the river serve to attract numbers of migrants and wintering species. In winter watch for Northern Goshawk (rare), Ring-necked Pheasant (willow thickets), Great Horned Owl, Downy and Hairy Woodpeckers, American Crow, Black-billed Magpie (more-open areas), Black-capped Chickadee, White-breasted Nuthatch, American Robin, Bohemian and Cedar Waxwings, Northern Shrike (willow thickets), Evening Grosbeak, Common Redpoll (willow thickets), and American Tree Sparrow (willow thickets).

The rest of the park is mostly short-grass prairie mixed with large patches of sage, rolling hills spotted with junipers, and sharply eroded buttes streaked with colorful veins of clay and mineral deposits. The birds to be found in the open areas are Swainson’s and Ferruginous Hawks; Prairie Falcon; American Kestrel; Golden Eagle; Sharp-tailed Grouse; Black-billed Magpie; Mountain Bluebird; Western Meadowlark; Field, Grasshopper, and Lark Sparrows; and Chestnut-collared Longspur. The Say’s Phoebe and Rock Wren should be watched for (and listened for) around eroded buttes, sharp cuts, and under bridges.

You will probably see few birds in the open areas of the park in winter, but look for Rough-legged Hawk, Golden Eagle, Sharp-tailed Grouse, Gray Partridge (prefers cultivated fields), Snowy and Short-eared Owls, Horned Lark, Black-billed Magpie, Northern Shrike, Western Meadowlark, American Goldfinch, Common Redpoll, and American Tree Sparrow. In early and mid-November Sandhill Cranes pass over the badlands by the hundreds.

The park personnel can provide a detailed list of nature trails. One that merits mention is the Caprock Coulee Nature Trail, which winds through an area of junipers. Even though you will not be overwhelmed with birds, the trail is an interesting one. Look for Golden Eagle, Mountain Bluebird, Rufous-sided Towhee, Field Sparrow, Coyote, and Mule Deer. This trail is a consistent spot for seeing Mountain Bluebirds. Each year there are usually a couple of nesting pairs.

Another trail takes off from the Caprock Coulee Trail and leads over the ridge to a prairie-dog town, where the dogs are much wilder than those of the roadside colonies. Since the colony is somewhat remote, your chances are better for finding a Burrowing Owl. At any rate, you should find Black-billed Magpie, Western Meadowlark, and Field Sparrow.

For a pleasant place to camp, go south on Highway 85 from the park for 4.8 miles and turn right (west) to the Custer National Forest Summit Campgrounds (not deluxe but more than adequate). There is a nice scenic overlook, and you may even find some good birds. Wild Turkeys may be seen in nearby ravines.

A fine marsh can be found just south of Williston (the second largest town in the northwestern sector) in northern McKenzie County. From U.S. Highway 2 just west of town, go south on Highway 85 for 2.3 miles and cross the Missouri River. For the next couple of miles the road transects fine marshlands, which should be checked for all of the usual waterbirds.

c) McLean County

One of the better locations for transient and breeding waterbirds and grasslands species is the Audubon National Wildlife Refuge. To reach it, go north on U.S. Highway 83 from County Road #48 north of Coleharbor for 2.8 miles and turn right (east). After 0.5 mile, turn left to the headquarters for a map, birdlist, and current information.

This refuge (formerly Snake Creek Refuge) was renamed in honor of John James Audubon, who made one of his last painting and collecting expeditions to this area in 1843. About the only thing that has not changed since he was here is the extremely rich birdlife.