wunder · Library

Part 8

A Birder's Guide to North Dakota · Kevin J. Zimmer — chapter 8 of 20 · ~1,699 words · public domain

Read in the Wunder reader — free

The lake is mostly open water with few marshy areas. It is not particularly good for nesting waterfowl. Nevertheless, in summer you should be able to find American White Pelicans; Double-crested Cormorants; Great Blue Herons; Ring-billed, California, and Franklin’s Gulls; and Black Terns although only the latter nests. A sprinkling of ducks use the lake in summer—both those that nest here and those from neighboring marshes. During migration, check for transient ducks, geese, and shorebirds. Short-eared Owls nest in the grassy areas.

The wooded ravines, tree lines, and shelterbelts provide habitat for migrant and nesting passerines. Look for Black-billed Cuckoo, Eastern and Western Kingbirds, Gray Catbird, Brown Thrasher, Yellow Warbler, Orchard Oriole, American Goldfinch, and Rufous-sided Towhee (spotted race).

There are two roads in the western part of Bowman County along which most of the specialties of the area can be found. The first starts from the town of Rhame (northwest of Bowman on U.S. Highway 12). From Rhame go south on a paved road for 6.0 miles. Watch for a power relay station (Slope Electric Cooperative) on the left, and turn right (west) on the next road (paved). Start watching the fields and roadsides for Northern Harrier, Swainson’s and Ferruginous Hawks, Merlin (rare), Sharp-tailed Grouse, Gray Partridge, Western Kingbird, Loggerhead Shrike, Lark Bunting, Vesper Sparrow, and McCown’s and Chestnut-collared Longspurs.

After 5.0 miles the road swings south. Stay with it for 7.0 miles, and turn right (west) on a dirt road, which starts to zigzag south just beyond a cattleguard some 2.2 miles ahead. Go 2.8 miles and watch on the right for a large field peppered with black sage. Check here in summer for Sage Grouse, Long-billed Curlew, Sage Thrasher (very rare), and Brewer’s and Lark Sparrows.

Rock Wrens and Belted Kingfishers nest in the eroded buttes by the stream, and Say’s Phoebes and Cliff Swallows nest under the bridge. Lark Buntings and Lark Sparrows are rather common.

A better road for most of these species starts at Marmarth (Slope County) and runs south to the state line. From the middle of Marmarth (The St. Charles Hotel should be on your left.), proceed west for 0.4 mile. Turn left on a gravel road which angles off just before Highway 12 swings to the right and crosses a bridge over the railroad tracks.

Heading south, you will pass a prairie-dog town on your right after 13.1 miles. This town is not very conspicuous from the road, but it is rather extensive. Watch for Black-tailed Prairie Dog, Black-footed Ferret (one was observed here in 1976), Burrowing Owl, and McCown’s Longspur.

The predominant habitat is short-grass prairie with extensive flats of black and silver sages. Some of the hillsides have lots of junipers. This is good raptor country. Look for Turkey Vulture, Northern Harrier, Swainson’s and Ferruginous Hawks, Prairie Falcon, and Golden Eagle. Harding County (directly south in South Dakota) is known as one of the best areas in that state for Golden Eagles, so it is possible that many of the eagles seen in Bowman spill over from Harding.

This road passes through some of the best habitat in the state for Sage Grouse. Sharp-tailed Grouse are also numerous. The Long-billed Curlew, although uncommon, is present each year in these sage-covered grasslands. Other species to look for are Mountain Plover (accidental); Common Nighthawk; Horned Lark; Loggerhead Shrike; Western Meadowlark; Lark Bunting; Vesper, Lark, and Brewer’s (common) Sparrows; and Chestnut-collared and McCown’s Longspurs.

Some 4.8 miles beyond the prairie-dog town, turn left on a dirt road to the Little Missouri River, where the trees and brush act as a migrant trap. During migration, it is the natural spot to turn up a western vagrant. Return to the main road and continue south for 2.2 miles to a small bridge near an eroded butte. Check for Say’s Phoebes and Cliff Swallows. Some 6.0 miles farther there is a larger bridge, where Cliff Swallows nest in good numbers, and you may find a Belted Kingfisher or a Say’s Phoebe. The state line is at the end of the bridge.

e) Slope County

If you did not find a Sage Grouse in Bowman County, try the road from Marmarth to Amidon. It is 42 miles long, and takes off from the east edge of Marmarth, where it is marked by a sign. The best area is the first six miles, where the sage is thickest. However, it may be worthwhile to drive the entire road.

While in Marmarth, check the trees in the residential area for nesting Western Pewees. One place where they have nested in the past is in the cottonwoods at the Marmarth Picnic Area. Turn left (south) off Highway 12 on the first street west of the St. Charles Hotel, drive 0.2 mile, and swing right to the small picnic area.

Stewart Lake National Wildlife Refuge is excellent for marshland and grassland birds. To get there go north from Bowman on U.S. Highway 85. After 12.0 miles turn left (west) by the flying-goose sign. After 3.0 miles turn right and cross the cattleguard toward the lake.

This refuge is rather small, but in migration the lake attracts all of the regular ducks, shorebirds, gulls (watch for California), terns, and swallows. Species which nest in the reedy borders include American Bittern, Blue-winged Teal, American Coot, Sora, Spotted Sandpiper, Wilson’s Phalarope, Black Tern, Marsh Wren, Common Yellowthroat, and Red-winged and Yellow-headed Blackbirds. In the mixed-grass prairie watch in summer for Northern Harrier; Sharp-tailed Grouse; Upland Sandpiper; Burrowing Owl; Horned Lark; Sprague’s Pipit; Loggerhead Shrike; Lark Bunting; Baird’s, Lark, and Grasshopper Sparrows; and Chestnut-collared Longspur.

Evergreen forests are limited in North Dakota, being found primarily in the badlands of the Little Missouri. Most tracts are dominated by juniper. However, in north-central Slope County a large tract of several hundred acres dominated by ponderosa pine borders the Burning Coal Vein Campground and Columnar Juniper Area.

To reach the area, continue north on Highway 85 from the turn-off to Stewart Lake for 10 miles and turn left on a gravel road at a sign for the campground. Go 0.2 mile and turn left. After 1.0 mile turn right. Stay on this road (follow the signs) for the next 10.2 miles and turn right to the campgrounds. The turn-off to the picnic area is 1.2 miles up the road.

For the past few miles you will have passed excellent stands of ponderosa pine. This hilly, forested country is more reminiscent of the Black Hills of South Dakota than of anything which one might expect to find in North Dakota. This is the only place in the state where the Yellow-rumped Warbler (Audubon’s race) nests. It can be found on practically any pine-covered slope. Its call note, a distinctive “chip”, may be of great use in locating the bird.

Other species of the pine forests include Sharp-shinned Hawk, Merlin (rare), Wild Turkey, Mourning Dove, Common Flicker (red-shafted race), Black-billed Magpie, American Crow, Red-breasted Nuthatch (rare), Brown-headed Cowbird, Rufous-sided Towhee, and Chipping Sparrow.

Another specialty of the area is the Poor-will, an uncommon breeder, which is more easily found on the periphery of the forested slopes than in the middle of them. A good place to watch and listen for it in the evenings is the area directly surrounding the Columnar Juniper Area (just up the road from the picnic site). Overlooking the spot is a pull-off which makes a good vantage point.

Check the brushy tangles at the picnic area for House Wren, Brown Thrasher, Lazuli Bunting, Rufous-sided Towhee, and Chipping and Lark Sparrows. Open flats and arid slopes surrounding the pine forest should be checked for Prairie Falcon and Say’s Phoebe.

f) Billings County

Besides being one of the most scenic, Billings County is one of the most rewarding to bird. As is the case with Bowman and Slope Counties, this county is good for western specialties and vagrants.

The two best areas can be reached from the town of Medora. The first is Sully’s Creek State Park. At the eastern edge of town by a sign for the park, turn south on East River Road. Keep left at the first fork and right at the next two. After 2.5 miles you will reach the campground.

This 80-acre park is nestled along the Little Missouri River and contains a good stand of cottonwoods and willows surrounded by sagebrush flats and grasslands. There is a high dirt cliff along the eastern edge, where Prairie Falcons sometimes nest and (if you are lucky) Big-horned Sheep play around.

Birds are abundant. One can expect to find most of the typical “badlands” species. Along the river look for Belted Kingfisher, any of the regular swallows, and migrant waterfowl and shorebirds. The sagebrush flats are good for Sharp-tailed Grouse, Gray Partridge, and Field Sparrows. In the cottonwoods and among the tangles of wild rose, snowberry, and currants, you may find Common Flicker (both red-shafted and yellow-shafted races, as well as many hybrids), Downy and Hairy Woodpeckers, Eastern Kingbird, Least and Willow Flycatchers, Western Pewee (rare), Blue Jay, American Crow, White-breasted Nuthatch, Black-capped Chickadee, House Wren, Gray Catbird, Brown Thrasher, Cedar Waxwing, Red-eyed and Warbling Vireos, Yellow and Black-and-white Warblers, Ovenbird, Yellow-breasted Chat, American Redstart, Northern (Bullock’s) Oriole (rare), Black-headed Grosbeak, Lazuli Bunting, Rufous-sided Towhee (spotted form), and Chipping Sparrow. The chat is heard more often than seen, but “pishing” noises are often effective in bringing this species out into the open.

The other top spot in Billings County is the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial, for which the exit is well marked along I-94. The entrance is at the western edge of Medora (which you may want to explore). Just inside the park there is a visitors’ center with interpretive displays and a good selection of books dealing with the natural history of the area. The 38-mile scenic loop is an excellent drive for seeing the park and its birds.

There are several prairie-dog towns scattered throughout the park. The first is 3.1 miles up the scenic loop. Check this and other towns for Black-tailed Prairie Dog, Burrowing Owl, and Black-billed Magpie. To the left of the town there is a Sharp-tailed Grouse dancing ground. Look for performing males.

← Previous chapterAll chaptersNext chapter →

A Birder's Guide to North Dakota · The Wunder Library — complete classics, free to read, with narration.

© 2026 Wunder Learning LLC · Terms & Privacy