Part 7

Typical bottomland habitat can be found near Sibley Island. To reach it start at the Bismarck Airport on the road to the terminal and drive south on Highway 1804 for 2.1 miles. Turn right (west) on a surfaced road. After 0.5 mile you have a choice of continuing straight (west) or turning left (south). To reach the best habitat, turn left and follow the road as it swings to the left. Go 2.2 miles (.5 mile past the bend) and turn right at the sign to the Girl Scout camp.

The road passes through excellent bottomland habitat. This consists mostly of cottonwood, green ash, box elder, and to a lesser extent American elm and bur oak. The understory, which is thick in some areas, includes Wood’s rose, red-osier dogwood, snowberry, bittersweet, and wild grape.

After birding around the camp, drive all the way to the river. From the high banks you will have a good vantage point from which to look over the sandbars for the area’s three specialties—Piping Plovers, Little Terns, and skinny-dippers. The latter species, although cosmopolitan in range, is quite rare in North Dakota. (When present they are “hard to miss”.)

The Piping Plover can sometimes be found in good numbers. This is one of the best areas in the state for them. Likewise, this stretch of the river is the only known nesting site for the Little Tern in North Dakota. When looking for them, remember that their locations vary from year to year, depending on the sandbars. The best way to find them is to check as many points along the river as possible. A spotting scope would be very useful in looking for all three aforementioned species.

If you do not get the plover or tern here, backtrack 2.2 miles to the fork before the Girl Scout camp and turn left (west). Drive 0.5 mile to 12th Street or 1.5 miles to Washington Street. By taking either south you will eventually reach the river. The view at the end of Washington Street is better, but access may be difficult if the river is high. During migration you may want to check General Sibley Park along Washington Street for passerines.

b) Morton County

The city of Mandan lies in Morton County just across the Missouri River from Bismarck. Most of the birds here are about the same as on the other side of the river, but there are some important exceptions.

To reach the best spots, take I-94 west to Mandan and turn off onto Main Street (I-94/Highway 10 Business Loop). Turn left (south) on 6th Avenue Southeast at the sign to Fort Lincoln State Park. This street becomes Highway 1806 and leads to most of the better birding spots.

Fort Lincoln State Park (about four miles south of Mandan) is worth a visit. It is not a particularly good spot for birds, although you will probably find typical upland species present. The most interesting feature of the park is its historical significance. There are three important sites: 1) the Slant Indian Village, which was once occupied by the Mandan Indians, 2) Fort McKeen Infantry Post, which was occupied by the 6th Infantry, and 3) Fort Abraham Lincoln, home of the colorful George Armstrong Custer and his famous 7th Cavalry. The two military posts were active in the late 1800’s. The park also offers an interpretive museum, picnic sites, and several modern camping sites (complete with electrical hook-ups).

Continue south on Highway 1806 for 6.0 miles to the Little Heart River. Turn left on an unmarked side road just north of the bridge. This passes under an old railway trestle and through a field of alfalfa and tall wheat grass. A colony of Sedge Wrens has nested here in recent years. This area is also dependable for Gray Partridge, Bobolink, American Goldfinch, Dickcissel, and Grasshopper Sparrow. At the field’s edge and in the woods look for Cedar Waxwing, Veery, Yellow-breasted Chat, Northern and Orchard Orioles, Lazuli Bunting, Black-headed Grosbeak, and other typical bottomland birds.

Several roads lead from Highway 1806 down to the river, some of which you may want to take in order to look for bottomlands species and migrants. Some 4.0 miles past the Little Heart River Bridge, a small road leads left to a good point for Piping Plover and Little Terns.

Another interesting spot is 6.8 miles past the bridge. Here, you will enter a small badlands with several severely eroded buttes, much like those in the extreme western part of the state. Watch for Turkey Vulture, Swainson’s and Ferruginous Hawks, Western Kingbirds, and Say’s Phoebes (rare; look near old buildings). Rock Wrens can be surprisingly common. The best way to find them is to park and walk past eroded buttes. It is just a matter of watching and listening for their distinctive series of trills.

A great place for winter birding is the Northern Great Plains Research Station in Mandan. To reach it, continue west on Main Street past Highway 1806 and turn left after one mile on Highway 6 (8th Street Northwest). Cross the railroad trestle and continue on 10th Avenue Southwest for 0.8 mile to a bridge. Just beyond, turn right at the sign.

These grounds are good for winter birding because of the conifers. Look for all of the regular winter species and for invaders such as Cedar and Bohemian Waxwings, Pine Siskins, Purple Finches, Pine (rare) and Evening Grosbeaks, Red Crossbills, and Golden-crowned Kinglets. The Townsend’s Solitaire, although rare, has been a fairly frequent visitor in recent years. The trees are good also for roosting owls. With luck, you may even turn up a Long-eared Owl.

c) Dunn County

Yet another location for migrant and nesting waterbirds is Lake Ilo National Wildlife Refuge. To reach it, start just south of the town of Killdeer at Highway 22, go east for 3.0 miles on Highway 200, and turn right at the sign.

Drive south through the mixed-grass prairie, which is good for Northern Harrier, Swainson’s Hawk, Ring-necked Pheasant, Sharp-tailed Grouse, Eastern and Western Kingbirds, Horned Lark, Lark Bunting, Lark and Grasshopper Sparrows, and Chestnut-collared Longspur. Turn left (2.0 miles) and bird until the road dead-ends at a farmhouse.

To bird the rest of the refuge, return to Highway 200 and head east again. Turn right (1.5 miles) toward the recreation area (just before the cemetery). After 0.3 mile the road forks. Go straight (keeping right) and follow the road as it heads to the lake and then makes a little square back to the road on which you entered. By taking this little loop you will get a good view of Lake Ilo. From this vantage point look for Common Loon (rare migrant), Western Grebe, American White Pelican, Double-crested Cormorant, Great Blue Heron (lake edges), Black-crowned Night Heron (lake edges), ducks and geese, and Sandhill and Whooping (rare) Cranes (migration—lake edges).

After taking the loop, turn right and drive 0.4 mile. Turn left and almost immediately swing to the right (at the fishing sign) and head toward the lake. Turn right at the sign pointing to the headquarters (0.5 mile). After 0.8 mile you may do three things: 1) turn right to the headquarters for information, 2) go straight for a different view of the lake, or 3) swing left to the slough.

The slough is the best area for birding. After swinging left, proceed for 0.8 mile, turn left, and drive for 1.1 miles past the entire marsh.

Species to be seen from spring to fall include Red-necked (rare), Horned (uncommon), Eared, Western (uncommon), and Pied-billed Grebes; Great Blue Heron; Black-crowned Night Heron; American Bittern; Mallard, Common Pintail; Blue-winged Teal; Northern Shoveler; Gadwall; American Wigeon; Ruddy Duck; American Coot; Sora; Virginia Rail; Killdeer; Spotted Sandpiper; Willet; Marbled Godwit; American Avocet; Wilson’s Phalarope; Black Tern; Belted Kingfisher; Eastern and Western Kingbirds; Barn, Cliff, and Tree Swallows; Marsh Wren; Common Yellow-throat; Red-winged, Brewer’s, and Yellow-headed Blackbirds; and Song and Savannah Sparrows. Many other ducks, shorebirds, and swallows may be seen as migrants or as occasional summer visitors.

After driving by the marsh, turn right, south for 1.0 mile, and turn right on a road through a mixed-grass prairie, which is good for Chestnut-collared Longspurs and possibly for Baird’s Sparrows.

d) Bowman County

Because of its position in the very southwestern corner of the state, Bowman County is one of the most exciting to bird. If you are going to find any truly western vagrants, your chances are better in either this county or the next two.

The best spot for both waterbirds and grasslands species is Bowman-Haley Dam National Wildlife Refuge. To reach it go north on U.S. Highway 85 from the South Dakota border for 5.3 miles, and turn right on an improved gravel road at a sign saying “Bowman-Haley Dam Recreation Area”. (This turn-off is about 11 miles south of Highway 12 near Bowman.) Go 5.0 miles east and turn right (south) at the sign saying “Point Rec Area 3 Miles”. After 2.0 miles turn left (east).

In the first mile check the roughly-plowed fields for McCown’s Longspurs in both spring and summer. After 1.3 miles the road becomes narrower and grassier and begins to loop around the lake. It should still be passable in all but wet weather. From 1.3 miles until 4.8 miles (where the road ends at a fence), you will be traversing some excellent grasslands. Most are mixed-grass prairie, but close to the lake there are tall-grass fields choked with weeds.

The mixed-grass prairie is good for nesting Sharp-tailed Grouse, Gray Partridge, Upland Sandpiper, Marbled Godwit, Burrowing Owl, Sprague’s Pipit (uncommon), Baird’s Sparrow, and Chestnut-collared Longspur. In the weedy fields where vegetation is taller and thicker, look for Bobolink, Dickcissel, and Clay-colored, Vesper, Grasshopper, and Savannah Sparrows.

For a different view of the lake, back-track to Highway 85, turn right (east), drive 3.0 miles, turn right (south), go 1.9 miles until the road forks, and swing right toward the marina. After 0.2 mile bear right. This road is good for birding, and there are picnic sites as well as room to spread your sleeping bag.