🥔 How to make mashed potatoes
Rinse the starch, rice the russets, fold the butter before the milk. A first pot tonight, with the science that keeps it fluffy.
What you’ll learn
- The bag of russetsPick russets for a fluffy first mash, name why Yukon Golds are a different dinner, and scale Kenji's four-to-six-plate pot.Buy russets. They fall apart, so you work them less. Yukon Golds make a creamier puree. An adult owns the peeler. You measure.
- Starch is the fightExplain potato cells, pectin, and starch granules, and say why a food processor and a box grater both fail.Cells stick with pectin. Granules swell and pop. Released starch is glue. Press, do not whirl. Do not grate.
- Cold water, then rinsePeel and cube russets, rinse until the water runs clear, simmer in salted water, then hot-rinse and steam dry.Cold start, sea-salty pot, knife-tender, thirty-second hot rinse, one minute of steam. Tiny cubes make a puddle.
- Rice, don't whirlRice the hot potatoes, fold in butter before milk, and season at the end.Ricer or food mill. Butter coats starch. Warm milk around the mound. Taste salt, then pepper. Chives are a hat.
- Plate, leftover, next potServe the mash hot, refrigerate leftovers within two hours, reheat to 165°F, and troubleshoot the next pot.Eat while it steams. USDA two-hour clock, 3 to 4 days in the fridge, 165°F to reheat. Glue is popped starch. Bland is shy salt.
Questions this course answers
Why does Kenji pick russets for a fluffy mash?
Kenji and Sasha Marx: mealy russets separate easily. Less work means fewer burst starch granules, so the mash stays light. The starch they do release rinses off.
In your own words, why does a food processor turn mashed potatoes into glue?
Kenji: a food processor releases an avalanche of starch. Marx: even a creamy puree should not be blitzed. Press, do not whirl.
Match each move to the job it does in Pico's fluffy pot
Rinse is starch control. Ricer is a gentle press. Butter is a coat. Cold salted water is even cooking plus seasoning.
Put Kenji's first fluffy mash in the order that keeps starch out and fluff in
Rinse first. Cook second. Press and fat third. Season and the leftover clock last. The processor never makes the list.
Kitchn says to add butter before the half-and-half. Why?
Kitchn: water in half-and-half combines with starch and makes glue. Butter first coats the starch. Kenji's fluffy recipe uses the same order.
Kenji grated potatoes to rinse off more starch. What happened when he cooked them?
Kenji boiled the grated, rinsed shreds for 45 minutes and they stayed pebbly. Calcium ions from burst cells strengthened the pectin.
Grounded in trusted sources
- J. Kenji López-Alt, Ultra-Fluffy Mashed Potatoes Recipe, Serious Eats, updated 26 September 2025, originally November 2010, later edited by Daniel Gritzer, russets for fluff, rinse starch before and after cooking, cells held by pectin, starch granules swell and pop, food processor becomes melted mozzarella, grating releases calcium that locks pectin, 2 lb russets, 6 tablespoons room-temperature butter, 1/2 cup whole milk, ricer or food mill, fold butter then simmer milk around the mound, about 15 minutes after a simmer, https://www.seriouseats.com/ultra-fluffy-mashed-potatoes-recipe
- J. Kenji López-Alt, Pommes Purée (Rich and Creamy Mashed Potatoes) Recipe, Serious Eats, updated 9 January 2026, Yukon Golds cooked in their skins, start in cold water, ricer then optional stand mixer, 1 stick butter and 1 1/2 cups hot cream, optional chicken stock, food processor a really bad idea, dense buttery puree versus fluffy russet mash, https://www.seriouseats.com/rich-and-creamy-mashed-potatoes-recipe
- Sasha Marx and Jacob Dean, The Best Potatoes for Mashed Potatoes, Serious Eats, updated 29 September 2023, russets for fluffy light mash because they break down with minimal work and their starch rinses off, Yukon Golds for rich puree because they release more gelated starch to bind butter, Robuchon-style 2:1 potato-to-butter needs that starch, never blender or food processor, ricer recommended, food mill for volume, masher uneven, https://www.seriouseats.com/best-potatoes-for-mashed-potatoes-8286174
- Dana Velden with Christine Gallary, Perfect Mashed Potatoes, The Kitchn, updated 2 October 2025, russets or Yukon Golds, avoid waxy reds, start in cold salted water, 2-inch chunks or the mash goes runny, knife-tender, butter melted in the pot first then warm half-and-half, never blender or food processor, butter coats starch so dairy water does not make glue, hold an hour over simmering water, leftovers airtight, reheat covered at 350 F with extra dairy, https://www.thekitchn.com/mashed-potatoes-recipe-180434
- Idaho Potato Commission, Dr. Potato, Are Idaho Yukon Golds an acceptable substitute for russets to make mashed potatoes, russet Burbank high specific gravity and dry fluffy mash, reds waxy and moist, yellows medium solids, do not overmix, add liquid ingredients warm and solid dairy nearer room temperature, https://idahopotato.com/dr-potato/print/is-yukon-golds-an-acceptable-substitute-for-russets-to-make-mashed-potatoes
- U.S. Department of Agriculture, Food Safety and Inspection Service, Leftovers and Food Safety, 31 July 2020, bacteria grow between 40 and 140 F, refrigerate leftovers within 2 hours or 1 hour above 90 F, shallow containers for rapid cooling, leftovers 3 to 4 days in the fridge or 3 to 4 months frozen, reheat to 165 F, cover to heat through, microwave cold spots, https://www.fsis.usda.gov/food-safety/safe-food-handling-and-preparation/food-safety-basics/leftovers-and-food-safety
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