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🍰 How to make tiramisu

Cook the yolks to 160°F, keep the mascarpone cold, and roll hard ladyfingers for two seconds. A first pan tonight, with the science that makes it stand.

5
lessons
~10 min
to learn
🔬 Science
subject
Ages 6–12
level
Start the course →

What you’ll learn

  1. Put the plastic cup backChoose ATK's cooked-yolk 13-by-9 over a shop cup, Stella's whole-egg whip, or King Arthur's sponge, and scale a first twelve-square pan with no rum.Put the cup back. Tonight is six yolks cooked to 160°F, cold mascarpone, and hard savoiardi. An adult owns the steam. You dip.
  2. Keep the mascarpone coldName mascarpone as a cold acid-set cream cheese, yolks as the 160°F walls, hard savoiardi as the floor, espresso powder as the punch, and Dutch cocoa as the bitter lid.Mascarpone stays cold or it breaks. Yolks are the walls. Hard biscuits only. Coffee plus powder. Dutch cocoa on top.
  3. Cook the yolks to 160Beat yolks pale, cook them over a one-inch simmer to 160°F, cool fifteen minutes, beat in cold mascarpone, and fold stiff whipped cream.Raw is traditional. Tonight is 160. Scrape the bowl. Cool, then cheese. Fold, do not beat. Stella's whole eggs wait.
  4. Dip, don't drownRoll each hard ladyfinger for two to three seconds, build two layers in a 13-by-9 with cocoa in the middle and on top, and skip the rum.Two to three seconds. Coffee, not rum. Spread, dust, repeat. Floors, not soup. Sift the lid.
  5. The fridge is the last ingredientChill six to twenty-four hours, keep the pan on the two-hour leftover clock, and tell Stella's whole-egg bowl and King Arthur's sponge from tonight's pan.Six hours before the knife. Two hours on the table, three to four days cold. A sponge is a different Saturday.

Questions this course answers

America's Test Kitchen cooks the yolks to 160°F. Why?

FDA sets 160°F for egg dishes. For recipes served raw or undercooked, FDA recommends pasteurized eggs or egg products. ATK's cooked tiramisu uses the 160°F method; traditional tiramisu can use raw yolks.

In your own words, why does America's Test Kitchen say to keep mascarpone cold until you beat it in?

ATK's recipe note: do not allow the mascarpone to warm to room temperature; it has a tendency to break. Kate Shannon Levine describes it as an acid-set cream cheese as thick as crème fraîche. Broken cheese will not stand in a 13-by-9.

Match each move to the job it does in tonight's tiramisu

160 is the safety target and the walls. Cold cheese is the body. A short dip is the floor. The fridge is the last cook.

Put tonight's tiramisu in the order that keeps it standing

Cook, cool, assemble, wait. The knife belongs at the end, not after the dusting.

ATK says the whole dip for each ladyfinger should take no longer than:

ATK: do not submerge; the entire process should take no longer than 2 to 3 seconds for each cookie. Hard savoiardi drink fast. A long bath is mush.

ATK says to refrigerate the assembled tiramisu at least how many hours before serving?

ATK: cover and refrigerate 6 to 24 hours. King Arthur's sponge version will accept 2 hours; tonight's dry biscuits need the longer set.

Grounded in trusted sources

  • America's Test Kitchen, Tiramisu Without Raw Eggs, 10 September 2007, 2½ cups strong black coffee room temperature, 1½ tablespoons instant espresso powder, 9 tablespoons dark rum (tonight omitted), 6 large egg yolks, ⅔ cup sugar, ¼ teaspoon table salt, 1½ pounds (680 g) mascarpone kept cold, ⅓ cup cream beaten into the yolks, ¾ cup cold heavy cream whipped to stiff peaks, 14 ounces (397 g) hard ladyfingers 42 to 60 depending on size, 3½ tablespoons Dutch-process cocoa, optional ¼ cup grated chocolate, beat yolks pale 1½ to 2 minutes, cook over 1 inch gently simmering water scraping constantly until the mixture coats a spoon and registers 160°F 4 to 7 minutes, cool about 15 minutes, beat in mascarpone 30 to 45 seconds, fold whipped cream, dip-and-roll each ladyfinger 2 to 3 seconds do not submerge, 13-by-9 glass or ceramic dish, 2 tablespoons cocoa then 1½ tablespoons, refrigerate 6 to 24 hours, brandy or whiskey may stand in for rum, hard not soft ladyfingers, mascarpone breaks if allowed to warm, https://www.americastestkitchen.com/recipes/3918-tiramisu-without-raw-eggs
  • America's Test Kitchen, Tiramisu, 9 September 2007, same amounts without the ⅓ cup cream in the yolks and without the water-bath cook, yolks beaten with sugar then rum then mascarpone, headnote warns the recipe contains raw or undercooked eggs, dip-don't-submerge 2 to 3 seconds, 13-by-9, 6 to 24 hours, https://www.americastestkitchen.com/recipes/3917-tiramisu
  • Kate Shannon Levine, The Best Mascarpone, America's Test Kitchen, 1 July 2017, acid-set cow's-milk cheese coagulated with citric or acetic acid then cooked to a crème-fraîche thickness, four national products tasted plain and in tiramisù, winner Polenghi Mascarpone made with all cream and no milk, 12 g fat and 1 g sugar per serving, luscious texture that sliced neatly, Vermont Creamery softer from glucono delta lactone, Galbani thicker from nonfat milk solids and slightly grainy, BelGioioso milder and denser from more milk than cream, https://www.americastestkitchen.com/taste_tests/1809-mascarpone
  • America's Test Kitchen, Food Safety 101: Temperature Guidelines & Best Practices, 12 December 2023, USDA-aligned table lists eggs at 160°F, danger zone 40°F to 140°F where bacteria double about every 20 minutes, food should not stay in that zone more than 2 hours or 1 hour if the room is over 90°F, leftover egg dishes follow the same leftover clock, https://www.americastestkitchen.com/articles/7889-food-safety-101
  • U.S. Food and Drug Administration, What You Need to Know About Egg Safety, 5 March 2024, fresh eggs may contain Salmonella even with clean uncracked shells, cook egg dishes to 160°F and use a thermometer, for recipes served raw or undercooked such as Caesar dressing and homemade ice cream use pasteurized in-shell eggs or pasteurized egg products, never leave cooked egg dishes out more than 2 hours or 1 hour above 90°F, leftover cooked egg dishes 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator, children older adults pregnant people and people with weakened immune systems at greater risk, https://www.fda.gov/food/buy-store-serve-safe-food/what-you-need-know-about-egg-safety
  • U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, Salmonella and Eggs, foodsafety.gov, cook egg dishes that do not contain meat or poultry to 160°F, use pasteurized eggs for foods that contain raw or lightly cooked eggs such as hollandaise sauce, Caesar salad dressing, and tiramisu, https://www.foodsafety.gov/blog/salmonella-and-eggs
  • Stella Parks, Rich and Creamy Tiramisu, Serious Eats, good ladyfingers strong espresso and no marsala wine, whole eggs instead of yolks so the mascarpone is not bulldozed, 5 large eggs (about 8¾ ounces / 245 g), 3½ ounces sugar (about ½ cup / 100 g), ¼ teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt, 24 ounces mascarpone (three 8-ounce containers) straight from the fridge, 5 ounces espresso or strong coffee (about ⅔ cup / 140 g) piping hot, ¾ ounce Dutch-processed cocoa (about ¼ cup / 20 g), ½ ounce vanilla, about 30 ladyfingers, combine eggs sugar and salt over a water bath stirring constantly until 160°F (71°C) no more than 5 minutes, then whip on high until foamy more than quadrupled and thick, https://www.seriouseats.com/best-tiramisu-recipe
  • Molly Marzalek-Kelly, Tiramisu, King Arthur Baking, two 8-inch sponge layers of 3 large eggs separated, ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar, ¾ cup (149 g) sugar divided, ¼ teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons (28 g) cold water, 1 teaspoon vanilla, ¾ cup (90 g) all-purpose flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder, bake 350°F 12 to 16 minutes, soak of ½ cup (113 g) boiling water, ¼ cup (50 g) sugar, 2 teaspoons espresso powder, ⅓ cup (76 g) Kahlua or amaretto or extra ⅓ cup boiling water plus 1 extra teaspoon espresso powder if skipping alcohol, filling of 1½ cups (340 g) heavy cream, ¾ cup (170 g) mascarpone, 2 teaspoons vanilla, ½ cup (57 g) confectioners' sugar, 2 tablespoons cocoa divided, chill at least 2 hours or overnight, ladyfinger variant uses three layers in an 8-inch square with a generous cup (about 190 g) filling per layer and an extra tablespoon of cocoa, https://www.kingarthurbaking.com/recipes/tiramisu-recipe

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