Travels in the Far East

Part 1

TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST

TRAVELS IN THE FAR EAST

ELLEN M. H. PECK (Mrs. James Sidney Peck)

New York Thomas Y. Crowell & Co. Publishers

Copyright 1909 By Ellen M. H. Peck

The University Press, Cambridge, U.S.A.

OZYMANDIAS

I met a traveller from an antique land Who said: Two vast and trunkless legs of stone Stand in the desert. Near them, on the sand, Half sunk, a shattered visage lies, whose frown, And wrinkled lip, and sneer of cold command, Tell that its sculptor well those passions read Which yet survive, stamped on these lifeless things, The hand that mocked them and the heart that fed: And on the pedestal these words appear: "My name is Ozymandias, king of kings; Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!" Nothing beside remains. Round the decay Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare The lone and level sands stretch far away.

--PERCY BYSSHE SHELLEY

TO MY DAUGHTER

FOREWORD

As the inspiration which caused the making of this "Tour" came from my daughter (the "you" of my story), and as she wished a record of the same published, my desire has been to give her as complete an idea of my journeyings as is possible by descriptive text and illustrations. The interest of friends in the plan has caused them to be included in my thought, and if the public desire to be added to the personal acquaintances whom I regard as my readers it will prove a pleasant recognition of a modest plan.

The nine months tour included Egypt, Northern India, Burma, Southern India, Ceylon, Malay Peninsula, Java, Siam, Southern China, Japan, Northern China, Manchuria, and Korea.

Realizing that impressions suddenly formed are not always to be trusted, an attempt has been made to have them tested by comparison with those formed by a longer residence.

In like manner only statements have been made on the authority of those who claimed to have knowledge and experience. The lack of guidance of either a Baedeker or a Murray has been felt in Java, Siam, China, Manchuria, and Korea, small local guide books and guides not being an equivalent as regards accurate testimony.

May these pages prove a pleasant reminiscence to those who have visited the scenes described, and an introduction to those who have not thus travelled, but some of whom may plan to "do likewise."

E.M.H.P.

MILWAUKEE, December, 1908

CONTENTS

PAGE

MILWAUKEE 1

CHICAGO 1

NEW YORK 1

THE AZORES 4

GIBRALTAR 4

MARSEILLES 5

PORT SAÏD 7

CAIRO 9

Part 2

SUEZ CANAL 34

ADEN, ARABIA 36

BOMBAY 37

JEYPORE 48

DELHI 56

AGRA 67

FATEHPUR-SIKRI 76

CAWNPORE 79

LUCKNOW 80

BENARES 82

SILIGURI 88

DARJEELING 89

CALCUTTA 93

BURMA 97

PROME 109

RANGOON 109

SHWE DAGON 111

MADRAS 116

TANJORE 118

TRICHINOPOLY 120

MADURA 122

TUTICORIN 124

COLOMBO 124

NUWARA ELIYA 127

KANDY 129

ANURADHAPURA 132

CEYLON 141

BATAVIA, JAVA 145

Part 3

BUITENZORG 147

GAROET 150

DJOKJAKARTA 154

MAOS 166

BANGKOK 174

SINGAPORE 201

JOHORE 201

HONG-KONG 204

CANTON 209

MACAO 216

SHANGHAI 225

NAGASAKI 229

KOBE 231

ONOMICHI 232

OSAKA 233

KYOTO 234

NARA 246

YAMADA 248

NAGOYA 250

YOKOHAMA 251

NIKKO 252

TOKIO 260

A VISIT TO NORTH CHINA 264

PEKING 273

TIENTSIN 301

SHANHAIKWAN 302

MUKDEN 305

NIUCHWANG 309

Part 4

DALNY 310

PORT ARTHUR 310

CHEMULPO, SEOUL 317

TOWARD YOKOHAMA 326

HOMEWARD BOUND 345

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

The Pyramids from the Nile, Cairo Frontispiece

Meshrebeeyeah windows 6

A bridge spanning the Nile at Cairo 11

The peculiar head-dress of the Cairo women 13

The Mosque of Amr 17

The interior of the Tomb Mosque of Kalaûn 20

Fountain in the Mosque of Sultan Hasan 24

Openwork dagobas 26

Citadel and Mosque of Mahomet Ali 28

The obelisk marking the site of Heliopolis 33

The Suez Canal near Port Saïd 36

Aden, Arabia 39

Victoria Station at Bombay 41

Queen's Road at Bombay 43

Country scene in Bombay 44

A Tower of Silence 46

Entrance to one of the Caves of Elephanta 48

Street scene in Jeypore 51

A Hindu woman of Jeypore 53

Interior view of Amber Palace 55

General view of Amber Palace and fort near Jeypore 57

Part 5

A gateway built during the seventeenth century in Delhi 59

The Pearl Mosque at Delhi 59

The Hall of Private Audience in the Palace, Delhi 61

Jumma Musjid, Delhi 61

The tomb of Emperor Humayun 64

Northern colonnade of the Islam mosque, showing ruined arch 66

Kutub Minar, the Tower of Victory in Old Delhi 68

Gateway leading to Taj Mahal 70

Taj Mahal 70

Screen in Taj Mahal 70

Shah Jahan and his wife in whose memory the Taj was built 70

Agra Palace and part of wall and gateway to the fort 73

An Octagon Tower of the Agra Palace 73

The Pearl Mosque 74

Akbar's tomb in Sikandra 74

General view of Fatehpur-Sikri 77

A column in the Audience Hall (Diwan-i-Khas) 78

Jasmine Tower and distant view of the Taj 81

The ghat at Cawnpore 81

The Residency at Lucknow 82

Bathing ghat, Benares 84

Burning ghat, Benares, where cremations occur 84

The Tope of Sarnath and the Jain Temple near Benares 86

A view of Darjeeling and the Kanchanjanga Range 89

A Nepaulese group 91

The Government House in Calcutta 94

An avenue of palms in the Botanical Gardens 96

Fort Dufferin and the moat, Mandalay 98

Part 6

Mandalay palace and its tower, called The Centre of the Universe 98

The Arakan Pagoda 100

One of the four gateways to the 450 Pagodas 100

The Queen's Golden Monastery 103

Karen women in Mandalay 103

Burmese country house near Mandalay 104

A national dance at Mandalay 107

On the Irrawaddy River, near Sagoing 109

General view of Rangoon 111

Shwe Dagon Pagoda at Rangoon 112

Entrance gateway, Shwe Dagon Pagoda 112

Chapels on platform around Shwe Dagon, Rangoon 112

Elephants carrying logs at Rangoon 115

The Gilded Sule as seen from Hytche Square 115

General view of Madras 117

The Great Subrahmanya Temple at Tanjore 119

Fort Rock, Trichinopoly 121

The Golden Lily Tank, Madura 123

Entrance to the Madura Temple 123

Street Scene in Colombo 124

General view of Nuwara Eliya 129

General view of Kandy 131

Entrance to the Botanical Gardens, Kandy 132

Temple of the Sacred Tooth in Kandy 132

Ruins of Anuradhapura 135

Near the Sacred Road, Thuparama Dagoba 136

The Moonstone Steps 139

Mihitale Steps 141

Part 7

Street scene in Kandy, Ceylon 143

The canal in the old city of Batavia 144

Batavia, Java 147

View of Mt. Salak from the Hotel Belle Vue 149

A village scene in Garoet, Java 151

The crater of Papandajang 153

The ruined temple of Prambanam 155

Bas-reliefs in the Siva Temple, Prambanam 155

The stairs leading to a Prambanam temple 155

The Three Graces in the Lara Jongram Temple, Java 157

The old temple at Mendoet 159

Boro Boedor, in Java 162

Stairway of Boro Boedor, Java 162

Boro Boedor, Java, showing one part of the gallery 162

A public square in Djokjakarta, Java 165

Designing sarongs in Batavia 167

Landscape near Batavia 169

Javanese vegetable sellers 170

A Javanese dignitary and his attendants 172

The King of Siam 175

In the Royal Palace of Wang Chang, Bangkok 180

Entrance to Prakeo, the Royal Temple 182

The Klong Canal at Bangkok 185

The famous Elephants' Kraal 189

Tower of Royal Palace at Ban-Pa-In 190

A Siamese girl 193

A royal barge at Bangkok 194

The collier quay at Singapore 201

Part 8

The Sultan's Palace at Johore 202

A general view of Hong-Kong 205

The public gardens in Hong-Kong 205

A typical street in a Chinese city 207

A five-story pagoda 211

Temple of the Five Genii at Canton 212

The San Paulo Façade 215

The bund at Macao, called Praia Grande 216

The bund at Shanghai 224

Mogi Road at Nagasaki 228

The main street in Kobe 231

The fort and castle at Osaka 232

The rapids near Kyoto 235

Bamboo Avenue in Kyoto 235

The Golden Pavilion 237

The largest pine tree in the world at Lake Biwa 238

Kasuga Temple 243

The Temple of Ise (Yamada) 249

Nagoya Castle 250

The way to the Temple, Ieyasu 254

Kokamon: Iemitzu Temple 254

A five-story pagoda 257

The gate called Yomei-mon 259

The Imperial Palace at Tokio 261

Court of the Temple Shiba at Tokio 263

Gate of Chionin in Kyoto 264

Ueno Park pagoda 264

The Little Orphan Rock in the Yangtse River 268

Part 9

Road to Kaling above Kia-Kiang 270

The Hankow bund 272

The Great Wall at Peking 274

Hata-men Gate 277

Peking girls 278

Llama Temple 278

A Peking cart 281

The Confucius Temple 281

Temple of Classics 281

The Inner Temple of Heaven 282

Outer Heaven, Temple of Heaven, Peking 285

The White Pagoda of the Yellow Temple 286

The Winter Palace of the Forbidden City 289

View from the Forbidden City 288

Marble Terrace of the Summer Palace 291

Marble Bridge of the Summer Palace 291

Nankow Pass 292

A tower of the Great Wall 295

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