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Part 7

The Geologic Story of Palo Duro Canyon · William Henry Matthews — chapter 7 of 12 · ~1,233 words · public domain

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The Sky Ride, located near the first water crossing on Park Road 5, transports visitors from the canyon floor to the top of Timber Mesa (fig. 28). The 300-foot ascent is made in ski-lift chairs that are comfortable and safe. The observation area atop the mesa offers an unusually fine view of most parts of the canyon.

The First Water Crossing (10).—

As it winds through the canyon, the park road crosses the Prairie Dog Town Fork of the Red River seven times in a distance of about 4 miles. These fords, or water crossings as they are called locally, are paved and are normally safe to pass through. They should, however, be avoided during times of heavy rains and flash flooding. Because of stream erosion, especially fine exposures of the Quartermaster Formation are revealed in the stream banks near several of the crossings.

The first of these crossings (fig. 29) is about 1 mile from the Sad Monkey Station and is one of the more popular picnic areas in the park. This area was also popular with earlier residents of the park, for it is believed to have been the campgrounds of both the Kiowa and Comanche Indians.

Colonel Charles Goodnight’s Dugout (11).—

As mentioned earlier (p. 6) Colonel Charles Goodnight entered the canyon in 1876 with more than 16,000 head of cattle. Although he later established more comfortable quarters, Col. Goodnight first lived in a primitive dugout similar to the one shown in figure 30. A replica of this early shelter has been constructed of mud, stone, and logs and can be seen on the west side of the park road just beyond the first water crossing (see fig. 29).

The Lighthouse (12).—

The unpaved road to the Lighthouse enters Park Road 5 about two-tenths of a mile beyond the first water crossing. Although considered by many to be the canyon’s best-known landmark, the Lighthouse is actually not within park boundaries. It is located in Little Sunday Canyon about 3 miles west of the road and is not easily accessible to the average visitor. Like many of the park’s natural attractions, the Lighthouse is an erosional remnant of colorful Trujillo shales and sandstones (fig. 31). A similar pedestal rock, the Devil’s Tombstone, can be reached by means of a trail which leaves the Lighthouse road and enters Sunday Canyon.

Capitol Peak (13).—

Capitol Peak (figs. 20 and 32) is a rather imposing geologic feature that can be seen from a number of points along Park Road 5. There are especially good views in the vicinity of the second water crossing if one will look to the west of the road. Just beyond the crossing an unimproved road leads to the foot of Capitol Peak. The lower part of this feature is composed of Quartermaster shales of Permian age and the upper section consists largely of Triassic Tecovas shales. When viewed from the proper angle, the silhouette of Capitol Peak is thought to resemble the prostrate form of a human (fig. 32). For this reason it has also been called the Sleeping Indian.

Fortress Cliff (14).—

The Ogallala Formation of Pliocene age (p. 23) forms the upper rim of the canyon and is well exposed in impressive Fortress Cliff (fig. 33). Although this precipitous cliff dominates the eastern rim of the canyon along most of the scenic drive, especially good views are afforded between the second and third water crossings.

The Rock Garden (15).—

Shortly after fording the river at the fifth water crossing, there is a jumbled pile of boulders on the west side of the road (fig. 34). This accumulation of Trujillo sandstone blocks has been named the Rock Garden. Many boulders such as these have accumulated on the floor of the canyon in ages past. However, most of these have been destroyed by weathering and their fragments removed by the canyon’s streams.

The Devil’s Slide (16).—

The Devil’s Slide can be reached by an unimproved road that leads southwest from the scenic drive for a distance of about half a mile. Composed of upper Quartermaster and lower Tecovas shales, the surface of this eroded spur is laced with many trails and “slides” that have been made by previous visitors (fig. 35).

The Turnaround (17).—

A loop marks the end of Park Road 5 and the conclusion of the scenic drive. Located in this area are a number of fine camping areas, picnic grounds, the old stone cottages called the “Cow Cabins,” and rest rooms with shower facilities (fig. 36).

Hiking.—

There are a number of established trails for the visitor who is interested in hiking. The more popular trails include those to the Spanish Skirts and Catarina Cave (p. 37), the Devil’s Tombstone, the Lighthouse (p. 39), and the Devil’s Slide (p. 40). Park rangers will be glad to provide more complete information about these and other trails within the canyon.

Horseback riding.—

Saddle horses can be rented at the stables located east of the road near the Pioneer Amphitheatre. There are a number of trail rides that can be taken on well-trained horses accustomed to the rugged terrain of the canyon. Additional information may be obtained from the attendants at the stable.

Camping and picnicking.—

An ample number of well-developed camping and picnic areas are scattered throughout the canyon. Most are located adjacent to or a short distance from Park Road 5; they are equipped with outdoor fireplaces and tables. Running water, rest rooms, and showers are provided in certain areas. Campsites are available on a first-come first-served basis, and there is a 10-day limit on overnight camping. Detailed information on camping regulations and camping areas is available from a park ranger or at the Entrance Station.

Photography.—

Palo Duro Canyon offers many opportunities for both amateur and professional photography. The multi-colored rock formations, erosional land-forms, and plants and animals offer limitless possibilities to the creative and imaginative photographer. Color shots are especially effective, but a haze filter will be helpful when photographing distant objects. Morning and afternoon are the best times for picture taking as the mid-day sun is “flat” and lends little perspective to the canyon scene.

PANHANDLE-PLAINS HISTORICAL MUSEUM

The visitor to Palo Duro Canyon State Park would do well to start his visit at the Panhandle-Plains Historical Museum located on the campus of West Texas State University in Canyon (fig. 37). Here all phases of history—recent, archeologic, and geologic—are depicted in the various halls. In the Hall of Pre-History are the fossilized remains and reconstructions of ancient animals that were entombed in the canyon walls as long as 200 million years ago. Elsewhere there are exhibits and dioramas that portray human history in the Palo Duro area. Beginning with the oldest known evidence of human occupation about 12,000 years ago, there is a succession of displays that tell the story of man in the Palo Duro—High Plains region. These exhibits follow man from the early Indians living in stone shelters, to the horse-using nomadic plains Indians who relied heavily on the great herds of bison and who fought a desperate but losing battle to save their homeland from invasion by the white man. Here, too, is the story of the coming of the Spanish conquistadores, the comancheros (see p. 6), and the advent of the anglican settler. All are portrayed by means of artifacts that represent the different cultures of the region’s colorful past.

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