Part 6

Even the most casual observer will soon note that not all of the canyon’s rocks have been equally affected by erosion. Indeed, it is the nature of this differential erosion that gives Palo Duro Canyon the rugged sculptured appearance that accounts for much of its beauty.

Visitors to Palo Duro Canyon commonly ask why the rock formations are so diversely shaped. The answer to this question lies in the rocks themselves. Because the various rock strata are of unequal hardness, they erode at different rates of speed. Hence, the harder, more resistant rocks, such as the sandstones and conglomerates of the Trujillo Formation, form the shelves, ledges, and “caps” of the rock sculptures. The Lighthouse (fig. 31) and other pedestal rocks (fig. 16) are good examples of land-forms produced by differential erosion. The “hoodoos” mentioned earlier are also the products of this type of erosion (figs. 16 and 20).

Softer rocks like shales and clay are more readily eroded and they normally form slopes rather than cliffs or ledges (fig. 12). Grooves, recesses, and caves have also developed in some of the less resistant rocks such as the shales and gypsum beds of the Quartermaster Formation. Catarina Cave (fig. 27) which has formed in the red and white shales of the Spanish Skirts (fig. 26) is a good example of this type of feature. Caves of this type afforded protection to both man and wild animals since the dawn of history, for their remains have been found in a number of similar caves.

Thus, within a relatively short time—geologically speaking—the familiar land-shaping processes described above have joined forces to provide Texas with one of its most remarkable natural attractions. But interestingly enough, the same geologic processes that created these unusual formations are busily at work destroying them. As time passes and erosion progresses, the caps of the pedestals are worn away and the underlying shales crumble and are washed into the valley below. Yet even as the old land-forms are being destroyed, wind, water, ice, and man are attacking the canyon walls to produce still more of these interesting erosional remnants.

WHAT TO DO AND SEE AT PALO DURO CANYON STATE PARK

The visitor to Palo Duro Canyon can choose from a number of recreational and educational activities. Moreover, regardless of whether one visits for a few hours to picnic along the banks of the river, or spends a week at one of the well-kept campgrounds, the visit will probably be both pleasant and rewarding. In the pages that follow there is a brief description of certain of the park landmarks and some of the more popular attractions within the canyon. The numbers in parentheses refer to numbers which designate these places on the map of Palo Duro Canyon (fig. 2, pp. 4-5). Hopefully, this information will help one to plan his visit to the canyon and thereby make his stay more enjoyable and worthwhile.

Park Entrance (1).—

The first stop in the park is the gate at the ranger station (fig. 21). Here one pays a modest admission fee and receives literature and information about the park. The park is open every day of the year, but the entrance gates close at sundown.

Coronado Lodge and Observation Point (2).—

The overlook at Coronado Lodge (fig. 22), located about half a mile from the Park Entrance, is a good place to start one’s visit. Situated on a ledge of Ogallala caliche (p. 26), the Lodge is an attractive, rustic structure constructed of blocks of Trujillo sandstone (p. 22). Its picture windows and outdoor overlook provide a matchless view of the canyon and make it possible to become oriented for the descent to the canyon floor. Large, coin-operated telescopes permit close-up views of distant parts of the canyon, and there are museum cases containing objects of historical and geological interest from the Palo Duro area. If possible one should visit the Coronado Observation Point more than once during the visit, preferably at different times of the day. Because of shifting clouds and changing lighting conditions, the canyon presents a continually changing panorama from sunrise to sunset. Open year-round, the Lodge offers a complete line of souvenirs, film, and camping supplies. There is also a snack bar where coffee, sandwiches, and cold drinks can be purchased.

The Scenic Drive (1-16).—

After viewing the canyon from Coronado Lodge, one should take the scenic drive on Park Road 5. This paved, all-weather road descends the northwest rim of the canyon and continues on to the turnaround at Cow Camp, a distance of about 8 miles. Although the present scenic drive was completed in 1951, the path that it follows is essentially that which was laid out by Colonel Charles Goodnight when he established Palo Duro ranch in 1876. The road descends to the canyon floor in a series of well-engineered turns, but because it drops some 800 feet in little more than a mile it is wise to use second or low gear on the descent. One should also observe the posted speed limits (10 to 20 miles per hour) and keep to the right side of the road at all times.

In the 800-foot drop from rim to floor, the complete geologic section of the canyon is traversed, as one passes from the Pleistocene sands through the Ogallala, Trujillo, and Tecovas Formations, before reaching the Quartermaster Formation which is exposed in the canyon floor. Each of these geologic formations is discussed elsewhere in this publication (pp. 16-28).

Pioneer Amphitheatre (3).—

Upon reaching the canyon floor, Park Road 5 flattens out and from this point it is but a short distance to the Pioneer Amphitheatre, one of the canyon’s newest and most popular attractions. Here, located at the foot of a colorful 600-foot cliff, is a remarkable 1500-seat outdoor theatre of latest design (fig. 23). Each evening during a ten-week summer season, a symphonic drama portraying the history of the Texas Panhandle is presented in the amphitheatre. Information about these productions can be obtained at the Park Entrance, Coronado Lodge, and other points within the park.

Sad Monkey Train Ride (4).—

The Sad Monkey Railroad begins—and ends—at Sad Monkey, Texas, a small “community” that lies at the foot of Triassic Peak (fig. 24). Unlike most miniature railroads, the Sad Monkey Special is not a “kiddie” ride. Instead, this 2-mile journey provides an opportunity to get away from the road for a closer look at the geologic formations exposed along the track. There are especially good views of the Spanish Skirts (fig. 26), Catarina Cave (fig. 27), and Triassic Peak (fig. 25). These, and other features of geologic interest, are pointed out by an experienced lecturer who also presents a brief review of the geologic history of the area.

Triassic Peak (5).—

Long used by Indians and ranchers as a Palo Duro landmark, the canyon visitor will find Triassic Peak to be equally useful as a geologic landmark. When viewed from the Sad Monkey Railroad Terminal, the south face of Triassic Peak clearly reveals three of the four major geologic formations of the canyon (fig. 25).

The lower one-third of the peak consists of deeply furrowed, red and white banded shales of the Quartermaster Formation (p. 17). Overlying the Permian red beds are the brightly colored, multi-hued Tecovas shales of Triassic age (p. 19). The composition of the Tecovas is such that the lower shales tend to weather into relatively gentle slopes with rather smooth surfaces. Triassic Peak is capped by a weather-resistant layer of Trujillo sandstone, and this durable cliff-forming sandstone has served as a protective covering to impede the erosion of the softer rocks of the Tecovas and Quartermaster Formations. Although it has withstood the ravages of time exceedingly well, the large blocks of Trujillo sandstone which litter the flanks and foot of Triassic Peak clearly indicate that weathering and mass-wasting have exacted their toll in the geologic past.

Sad Monkey, Texas derives its name from the prominent mass of Trujillo sandstone at the southern extremity of Triassic Peak. When viewed in the proper perspective—and with the proper amount of imagination—this massive block of sandstone bears a striking resemblance to an aged and saddened monkey.

Spanish Skirts (6).—

Few of the canyon’s features are as well-named as the gaudy Spanish Skirts (fig. 26). The lower part of this multi-colored bluff consists of alternating layers of red and white Quartermaster shale, capped by the colorful maroon and lavender Tecovas shales. Located on the north flank of Timber Mesa, the Spanish Skirts and nearby Catarina Cave can be reached by an easy half-mile path. The trail begins on the west side of Park Road 5, just beyond the Timber Creek bridge located several hundred feet from the Sad Monkey Station.

Catarina Cave (7).—

A short distance west of the Spanish Skirts lies Catarina Cave. This depression has been washed out of the relatively soluble Permian shales (fig. 27).

Santana’s Face (8).—

Like Triassic Peak, Timber Mesa is capped by a thick layer of massively bedded Trujillo sandstone. On the eastern tip of the mesa the sandstone has been eroded in such a fashion that it resembles the profile of an Indian (fig. 28). This feature, called Santana’s Face, is best seen from the park road shortly after leaving Sad Monkey Station.

The Sky Ride (9).—