Part 16

The Maurandya Vine is one of the most satisfactory for low trellises, window-boxes, vases, rockwork, and the like, in summer, and for hanging-baskets in winter. In the open air it attains a height of five or six feet, giving an abundance of pink, white, and lavender-coloured, foxglove-shaped flowers, an inch and a half in length. The smooth, shining leaves are ivy-shaped and cling to supports by a twist of the stem. It grows readily from seed, and germinates in from twelve to fifteen days. For trellis and outdoor work start early in flats or hotbed, setting out when danger of frost is past, but for winter use June is early enough to sow seed. It requires no special treatment, doing well in any situation with good soil and sufficient moisture. This is one of the most graceful and useful vines for either summer or winter.

Thunbergias (Black-eyed Susans) like a warm, sunny situation, and in good soil will grow six or eight feet tall and be covered, until cut down by frost, with a wreath of tube-shaped, flat-faced blossoms two inches in diameter—pure white, white with black eye, yellow with white eye, and yellow with black eye. They are very valuable for covering low trellises, the foundations of porches, window-boxes, urns, or rockwork where a small vine is needed. They are admirable as basket or bracket plants in winter. They grow freely from seed, germinating in about twelve days, and should be started early in flats in the house or the hotbed. Much finer plants are grown in this way than can be purchased from the florist. Their only enemy is the red spider, and they should be showered frequently to prevent an attack.

The Manettia Vine is one of the most satisfactory vines for winter blooming, requiring only a small pot and a place in a sunny window, and blooming better when pot-bound. A daily watering, and occasional doses of weak liquid manure when the other plants are getting it is all the care it needs. It does not require a warm atmosphere, blooming freely in a temperature of about 50°, and giving an unfailing succession of its bright little flowers every day during the winter. It is that rare thing—a plant which the florists have not overpraised. It is every bit as good as it is claimed to be. Though equally at home in a hanging-basket or on a trellis, I have found it most attractive when grown on strings across the window in company with Solanum jasminoides, whose sprays of airy white flowers contrast with the orange and scarlet of the Manettia. A small plant obtained from the florist in spring and potted in a four-inch pot, with good compost, will be ready to bloom by November, and will remain in bloom from that time until spring, when it should be repotted in a six-inch pot and plunged in the sand-box to grow for winter blooming. The only precaution necessary is to keep it in a small pot, as it blooms more freely when pot-bound. Cut back if not branching freely, as the bloom comes at the ends of the new growth.

Clematis (Virgin’s Bower)

The large-flowered Clematis are the most expensive vines we have. So slowly do they propagate from cuttings that the price remains high from year to year. The cheapest way to obtain them is to raise them from seed and, though this is a more or less uncertain method, the expense is so slight compared to the purchase of plants that where many are required it is worth repeated efforts. Plant the seeds in flats in the house either in fall or spring. Cover an eighth of an inch and press the soil down firmly, keeping moist and warm. They germinate in from six weeks to a year; for this reason fall planting is desirable, as the soil may more easily be kept in the right condition. When the plants are large enough to handle, pot off into small pots and plunge in the sand-box, if the weather is warm enough, or in a sunny window if cold. Winter in a frost-proof cellar the first winter, putting them in the open ground where they are to remain till the following spring. The plants will give a few blossoms the second season, enough to show the variety, and the next year may be expected to bloom freely. Plants raised from seed are more likely to bloom and do well than those from cuttings.

Clematis paniculata comes more freely from seed than the Jackmanni strains, and should be largely grown, as it is one of our loveliest vines and blooms when most others have ceased. Clematis flammula self-sows and established little plants are continually coming up in unexpected places, which may be removed to any desired position, as this variety does not in the least mind being disturbed. All Clematis are benefited by winter protection, and such varieties as Ramona and other spring bloomers should have the tops protected with sacking or old carpet. Mrs. Edward Andre dies to the ground in the winter, but should be well protected around the roots. Many growers cut back Clematis to within a few feet of the ground each fall, but where large spaces are to be covered one loses much time, as the frost usually does all the trimming necessary. The early spring bloomers from last season’s wood and cutting back in the fall simply lessen the blossom points. If it is necessary to trim for symmetry or lack of room it should be done immediately after the plants are through blooming, that they may have abundant time for new growth.

Bignonia Radicans (Trumpet Vine)

It is to be regretted that this fine vine is so common and old-fashioned that no one seems to appreciate it sufficiently to bring it up to its really magnificent possibilities. When grown as a shrub no finer plant for a hedge could possibly be desired. For this purpose the plants should be set about three feet apart, or even closer, if it is desired that the hedge should be useful as well as ornamental. Set in an even row where the hedge is desired, tie each plant to a stout stake, and allow only one branch to grow, cutting this back when three feet high to form the head, which should be made to branch freely. By the time the stake has rotted away the plant will have made a trunk as large as one’s wrist and perfectly self-supporting. All dead and weak branches should be trimmed out each year and the hedge kept pruned back to symmetrical growth. If the seed-pods are not allowed to form the plant will be in bloom nearly all summer. Such a hedge will be a thing to bequeath to posterity along with old oaks and fine elms.

The Trumpet Vine is equally desirable as a climber, and on some surfaces is self-supporting, but on others, as the side of a building or a board fence, it often fails to attach itself, and in that case must be artificially supported. This should be very securely done, as a hard storm may tear a heavy-topped specimen entirely away from its support and do much damage. The best support is afforded by stretching a galvanised wire across a branch, just under a joint, and fastening each end by a staple driven firmly into the building.

Grown as a shrub on the lawn the Trumpet Vine is very fine and should be trained to a stake and grown the same as a Kilmarnock Willow. Every year, as my Bignonias bloom, I grow more and more enthusiastic over their possibilities, and wish more people would grow them with some definite aim in view.

Chapter TWELVE Ornamental Foliage Plants from Seed

Canna (Indian Shot)

All Cannas—the gorgeous orchid-flowered, as well as the old-fashioned sorts—can be easily and cheaply grown from seed and will give blossoming plants almost as soon as those started from bulbs. When one must buy plants and the fine new varieties are desired, the starting of an eight-or ten-foot bed is a matter for economical consideration. Five or six dollars is as little as one can expect to pay for such a bed if plants are purchased, but by starting the seed the cost is reduced to a mere bagatelle. It is better to buy seed by the ounce, as not all will come up, and one should make sure of a sufficient quantity. The seed must be filed on the end opposite the germ, so that the white shows through plainly, and the best way to do it is to tack a piece of medium sand-paper to a piece of wood and rub the seed on that. It is better to do this before they are wanted, as it is a tedious process when one is in a hurry. Soak the seeds in hot water for an hour or two before planting and sow in hotbed or flat, keeping moist and warm. When large enough to handle, prick out in thumb-pots and place in a warm, sunny window. It would be even better to start them in tiny pots, plunged in a box of sand or in the hotbed, to avoid danger in removing, as they sometimes suffer in the process. Though one of the toughest plants when of some size, the little seedlings are exceedingly tender. Shift as needed until time to place in the open ground when all danger of frost is past. Plant, if possible, in muck well manured, as Cannas do exceptionally well in that soil and can scarcely have too much food and water. Unless one has city water or other supply it is better to make the Canna bed somewhat lower than the lawn, that all the water may be retained and not run off, as it will if the beds are raised. If tall-growing varieties are grown in the centre the effect will be as good as though the bed were raised and less water will be needed. A good mulch of lawn clippings will help to keep the soil moist, mellow, and free from weeds and will greatly lessen the care of it. Seed sown in February or March will give blooming plants in June, and by fall there will be a fine lot of roots to store away for another year.

Coleus, which are practically indispensable in all ornamental bedding, are easily raised from seed and will make fine plants by June. Start seed in rather deep flats in the house in February or March, covering lightly and giving a warm place (see directions for growing house-plants from seed). They germinate in from five to seven days. As soon as the plants have their first true leaves place in a warm, sunny window and encourage them to grow as rapidly as possible. When they have two or three leaves the colours will be sufficiently developed to admit of making selections, and if the box is at all crowded they can be potted off and grown on until time to plant out. Coleus are very sensitive to cold and should not be planted out in the open ground until the nights are warm. Never allow the Coleus to flower, as this injures the foliage greatly. Pinch out the flower heads as they appear. Water liberally and pinch back occasionally to symmetrical form. Any soil that suits the Canna, or other ornamental foliage plant, will do for the Coleus—a light, sandy loam enriched with manure is as good as anything, and leaf-mould answers admirably.

Where a quantity of Cineraria, or Dusty Miller, is needed for borders, it is much more economical to grow from seed, starting them in hotbeds and planting out when all danger of frost is past, setting six inches apart.

Ricinus, or Castor-oil Bean

Probably the most effective and tropical-looking plant in cultivation to-day is the Ricinus, and fortunately it is within the reach of everyone. It is usually seen as a solitary specimen on the lawn, or as the centre of a bed of other plants, or probably in a long row; it is more effective, however, in a group, and thus grown makes a good background for low plants. Seed should be started early in house or hotbeds. It germinates in twelve to fifteen days. The best results will be obtained when started in the house by planting in three-or four-inch pots. Put two or three seeds in a pot and remove all but one if more come up. Before filling the pots with earth mixed with good compost, a piece of shard, or flat stone, should be placed over the drainage hole to confine the roots, as they make a very rapid growth. Shift into larger pots as required, and plant out when all danger of frost is past in a deep, rich soil. Marsh earth is best, but where this is not available any good garden soil will answer if heavily manured and well watered. The young plants are somewhat backward after transplanting and frequently refuse to grow at all, so that it is well to have a few plants in reserve against a possible emergency. After the plants are a foot high, little if any trouble will be experienced. The newer Zanzibar varieties are the most desirable, being very fine both in colour and development, growing under favourable conditions from eight to ten feet tall with leaves three feet in diameter.

Banana plants are very showy and attractive and in the North are more or less of a novelty. They may be planted out in the open ground or in tubs when all danger of frost is over. Though less sensitive to root disturbance than the Ricinus, they are very impatient of the immediate presence of other plants, and young plants should be grown by themselves. Robust two-year-old plants, however, may be used as centres for beds of Cannas or similar plants with fine effect. When obtainable they should be given a compost of muck and old manure and supplied with a very liberal amount of water; the water from the laundry and kitchen should be saved for them, as one can scarcely overfeed them. Give a warm, sunny situation, protected from rough winds, which whip and tear the broad leaves, rendering them most unsightly. A southeast angle of building or shrubbery furnishes an ideal location. In the fall the plants may be removed to the cellar in the tubs in which they have been grown, or they may be lifted, if grown in the open ground, and planted in suitable tubs for the adornment of the conservatory or living-room. Grown indoors they are very ornamental, the foliage being perfect, which is rarely the case out of doors. It is also much easier to carry the plants through the winter in this way; as they are very sensitive to cold and damp when dormant and cannot be carried successfully in a cellar where these conditions exist, even though it be free from frost. In the South—and the same method may be employed in the North, provided the cellar conditions are right—the plants are dug up, the soil removed, and the roots wrapped in gunny-sacks and laid on a shelf in the cellar, all the leaves being removed except the central one, which must be carefully protected from all injury.

Chapter THIRTEEN Bulbous and Tuberous-rooted Plants

Cannas may be started any time in April or May. The old-fashioned tall-growing varieties may be put in the open ground early in May. Cover with three or four inches of soil and protect the bed with a little rough manure if the nights are cold, the finest of the manure being left to enrich the soil when the plants are up.

The large-flowering French and Orchid-flowered Cannas are delicate and very sensitive to cold and damp and should be started in the house with heat. Divide the roots into points and pot separately in leaf-mould, or they may be placed in baskets of sand set in a warm, sunny place and kept constantly moist; this is the simplest and best way of handling them. Cannas are less likely to mould or decay in sand than in soil, and it is easier to keep a uniform degree of moisture in the baskets than in the small pots. The baskets should be partly filled with fine white sand and the roots laid in place, points up, as closely as convenient, and sufficient sand added to cover them. They must not be planted out until all danger of frost is past and the nights are warm, and they should then be handled very carefully to avoid injuring the tender roots. Give them a soil of muck or heavily manured loam and abundance of water. The most convenient place for starting bulbs of all kinds is a warm upstairs room, over a kitchen or elsewhere, with a south or west light. A wide shelf may be arranged under the windows and one’s entire supply of bulbs started there in pots and baskets out of the way. Seeds of flowers and vegetables may also be started there to advantage.

Dahlias are best started in the baskets of sand, putting the bunches in whole, with the crown just below the surface of the sand. When they have sprouted and the weather is warm they should be removed from the sand and carefully divided. A number of tubers will have failed to start, while others will have thrown several shoots. If the number of plants is not sufficient more may be secured by grafting part of the green shoots into the dormant toes. Remove a shoot, cut the end to a wedge shape, remove a corresponding wedge from the crown of a toe and insert the shoot; it should rest in the toe an inch or more and be placed in the ground at once—drawing the earth around it snugly that the scion may be in no danger of separating from the toe before it has formed a union. Only one shoot should be left on a tuber, and the removal of the extra ones for grafting is a distinct gain. Whenever it is necessary to divide the roots a portion of the stem with a well-defined eye must be given to each division, otherwise there will be no top growth; the toes will root, but they will not grow. For further directions see chapter on growing Dahlias from seed.

Caladium esculentum, or Elephant’s Ears, is a native of the Sandwich Islands, where it furnishes a staple article of food called Poa. The root when cooked is like a potato. It is better to start separately in pots an inch larger than the bulbs, setting the top of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. Pot with muck or good compost and keep moist and warm. They respond to heat and moisture the most readily of all dormant bulbs, beginning to grow at once and making steady progress, the root growth keeping step with the top much more uniformly than is usual with bulbs that are wintered dry. It is an ideal plant for the amateur, as easily grown as a hill of corn. If fine plants are desired only those bulbs showing a live centre-shoot should be used. If the winter conditions have been favourable the bulbs will show a strong centre-shoot or rolled-up leaf; where this has decayed or dried off there will frequently be side-shoots which are worth saving when the supply of bulbs is small, and which will produce fair results, but for really good plants the centre-shoot is necessary.

Plant out when all danger of frost is past, in muck if possible, or in heavily manured loam; the more freely they are watered the finer will be the growth. Old bulbs should give leaves three feet or more in length and correspondingly wide.

Single specimens are fine in pots, vases, or tiles, but they are really seen at their best in large clumps on the lawn, or edging beds of Cannas or other subtropical plants.

They are easily wintered and multiply very rapidly; and, as much better effects can be obtained by planting largely of one variety, an effort should be made to have a generous supply. Aim for a tropical luxuriance of effect—whether the plants used are Cannas, Caladiums, Ricinus, or all three.

Tuberous Begonias should be started at the same time as the Caladiums, Cannas, and other tuberous plants. Pot singly in small pots of leaf-mould, setting the tuber level with the surface of the earth, but shaping the soil away from it toward the edge of the pot that water may not settle around it. The side showing a slight depression is the top. Often it is difficult to determine this, in which case the bulb may be laid on the surface until growth begins and the fact can be determined, when it may be potted. Do not keep too warm, as that induces a leggy growth; a temperature of about 60° is right.

Bed out, when all danger of frost is past, in partial shade. In England it is claimed that they will stand the hottest sun, but the atmosphere of England is very different from our dry air, and the tuberous Begonia does better with us if shaded. Where there is no natural shade an awning of cotton cloth during the hottest part of the day answers every purpose. Gloxinias are started the same as tuberous Begonias and require practically the same treatment, but more heat. Fuller cultural directions are given in the chapter on growing from seed.