Part 15

There is such a bewildering variety of Sweet-peas that any suggestion of choice is impossible, but usually the special collections put up by seedsmen will prove more satisfactory than those of one’s own choosing, if one is unfamiliar with the names of the varieties.

Verbenas

In sowing the seed of Verbenas it is best to keep colours separate, as white, pink, scarlet, scarlet with white eye, and the new Mayflower Verbena—one of the finest novelties brought out in recent years.

They should be started early in flats or hotbed, soaking the seed in hot water for three or four hours before planting. It germinates very irregularly, often coming up after one has ceased to expect it. The soil should be kept moist so long as there is any chance of more plants appearing. Verbenas will thrive in any good soil, striking root wherever a point touches the ground. Cultivate, if in loam or stiff soil, as long as there is room to work between the plants, which should be set at least a foot apart. Verbenas do finely on the rockwork, seeming to enjoy the cool corners they find under the stones, and the finest I have ever grown have been in such a situation.

Vincas (Periwinkles) are an exceedingly beautiful and little known tender perennial worthy of extensive cultivation, as easily grown as an Aster or Verbena, and very effective in large beds. For the price of one greenhouse plant a dozen plants may be raised from seed. The foliage is deep green and glossy, and large single flowers of exquisite colour and texture—pure ivory white, white with a crimson eye, and rosy crimson—are borne at the end of every branch covering the plants, which grow from fifteen to eighteen inches high and nearly as broad. As a border for a Canna bed nothing could be better, and they make fine symmetrical winter bloomers. No finer plants for house decoration could be desired.

The seeds, which should be started early in hotbeds or flats, germinate in from ten to fifteen days, sometimes earlier. Set out plants, when all danger of frost is past, in muck, if possible, or in well-enriched loam, setting a foot or fifteen inches apart each way, cultivating once a week, if in loam or stiff soil, but if in muck it will only be necessary to mulch. Water every day during the hot weather, and if kept from seeding they will bloom from June until cut down by frost. They do well in full sunshine or in shade, but must have a fair amount of moisture. If no seeds form plants may be lifted in the fall and potted in large pots for winter blooming.

Small plants of the Chrysanthemum obtained from the florist in the spring will, with proper care, make fine blooming plants by fall. Plant out, when all danger of frost is past, in a sunny bed composed of rather sandy loam and muck well manured and made deep and mellow. Set the plants from a foot to eighteen inches apart each way and cultivate at least once a week during the summer. They should never suffer for water, as if once allowed to dry out they never fully recover.

When the plants are six or eight inches high pinch back to four inches. Allow four branches to spring from this main stalk, removing all others. When these are four inches long pinch back again, allowing each of the four shoots to form three or four branches and nipping out all others as they appear. If a few very large flowers are desired, allow only the four branches to grow from the main stem, removing all other shoots. When the branches are six inches in length pinch back for the last time not later than August 1st, after which they should be allowed to grow on undisturbed, removing all but the terminal buds if fine flowers are desired.

Lift by September 1st, transfer to large pots or boxes, according to the size of the plants. The soil should be given a good watering the day before lifting, that the earth may cling to the roots and that the plant may be in the best condition for moving. Cut around the plant with the trowel, leaving a ball of earth as near as possible the size and shape of the pot it is to fill. Avoid disturbing the roots.

Set in a cool, shady place for a few days and keep in a rather cool, dry atmosphere after removing to the house. Water freely and give liquid manure once a week. Do not shower the tops after buds appear, or keep where bulbs are growing in water, as moisture at this stage is apt to cause the buds to blast. Chrysanthemums are quite certain to be attacked at some stage of their growth with black aphis, or lice, which are very troublesome to get rid of once they have gained a foothold. It will be wise, therefore, to keep the foliage constantly dusted with tobacco at all seasons of their growth, as in this form tobacco is most effective. Once the pest has gotten a start fumigating with tobacco smoke will be necessary. Shut the plants in a close room or box and smoke thoroughly.

Chapter ELEVEN Vines

Harsh outlines of buildings, a dead tree, a dilapidated fence, a sunny window, an obtrusive outbuilding, may be transformed by the use of Nature’s drapery. There exists in the minds of many, unfortunately, a prejudice against vines on the house as injurious to walls. This is entirely unfounded, the contrary, so far as I am able to judge, being the case, especially on the south and west sides of frame houses, where the paint and consequently the woodwork, will be found in a much better state of preservation when protected by such vines as Ampelopsis Veitchi, Virginia Creeper, Woodbine, and the like, than when exposed to the burning, blistering rays of the sun. Vines make a thick growth of overlapping leaves which shed rain and prevent its penetrating to the walls. In England, where it is much used, it is said that walls covered with Ivy are almost indestructible, so hard and dry has the cement remained under its protecting care.

Adlumia (Mountain Fringe, Climbing Fumitory, Alleghany Vine)

One of the prettiest of summer vines is the Adlumia, though it lasts but one short summer. It is a biennial, stooling the first summer and the second summer bursting into a wealth of tender green foliage, as finely cut as a fern, with hundreds of sprays of delicate flowers—a delightful vine when grown on the north side of the house, where it retains its fine green throughout the season, though in the hot sun it is inclined to burn. It is especially appropriate for funerals. It self-sows, and once established there is sure to be an abundance of it from year to year. In the fall seeds may be scattered where the plants are to remain, or the seed may be germinated in another spot and the seedlings transplanted later. As the plants always receive a check when moved, it is better to do so as early as possible in the fall, that they may become established before cold weather. Plants should be set two feet apart.

Cobæa scandens (Cup-and-Saucer Vine) is a most desirable summer vine. It grows to a great height and blooms freely, throwing great, bell-shaped flowers—pure white, greenish white, lavender, mauve, and purple—from the axil of nearly every leaf. The flowers of the purple variety are pale green at first, changing through all the shades of lavender and purple to plum.

There is another variety—the San Salvador Cobæa—that is even more desirable than the C. scandens. The flowers are much smaller, but have greatly exaggerated stamens that give them distinction. Its chief beauty, however, is the foliage of light, translucent green, to which the sun, shining through it, gives a luminous quality rare in vines. In manner of growth, too, it is superior, its many-lobed leaves lying parallel to, or flat on the netting, instead of at right angles, as is the case with C. scandens. Both these vines do well in a north or east exposure and require less water than most vines. They are admirable for covering an old tree or any partly dead wood.

Seed should be started in the hotbed early in spring, setting them on edge and covering a quarter of an inch deep. Unless the soil appears dry they should not be watered until the plants are up and have their first true leaves. Set out when danger of frost is past in mellow soil, watering as needed, and giving support for the vines to cling to. To stone and brick, or the bark of a tree, they will cling of themselves, each leaf-spray ending in a tendril that attaches itself to any rough surface. I have never been able to ascertain what height they will attain if given support, but the top of a reasonably tall tree falls short of their ambition.

The Centrosema (Butterfly Pea) is rather a hard vine to propagate from seed. Seeds germinate freely, but the young plants seem strangely lacking in vigour, so that frequently, after making a few inches of growth, they refuse to go further, and gradually dwindle away. It is therefore better to make several sowings, soaking the seed in hot water for an hour before using, and planting in hotbed or cold-frame. If it is dropped an inch or two apart in the rows there will be no occasion for disturbing until it is time to transplant into the open ground—which would better be deferred until the plants are six or eight inches high. They should be moved with as little disturbance as possible, pressing the trowel down its full length and lifting and transferring to their permanent position on the east side of the house in one operation. Water and press the earth around the roots and furnish immediate support. Thus treated they will usually thrive and bloom in a few weeks, continuing until frost unless seeds form, which should not be allowed on young plants.

Were they much more difficult to raise, it would still be worth many trials and failures to secure one thrifty plant, so lovely it is when in bloom. I do not remember another plant whose blossoms give one such an idea of perfection—of exquisite and minute finish, as this lovely Centrosema with its beautiful colour, delicate markings, and symmetry of form. Before it bloomed I had begun to wonder whether it was worth all the trouble, but when I saw the first perfect blossom all doubts vanished and I would go to much greater trouble to possess it.

The Centrosema is of slender growth, and seldom exceeds eight or ten feet. Plants should be set a foot apart in front of a wire trellis or other support. They are hardy, but should be given protection in winter.

Gourds are a very useful family. They are an ornamental feature of the summer garden, and afford an economic and unique addition to the winter’s supply of plant receptacles, hanging-baskets, low bowls for Tulips, Crocus, and other bulbs. Many of them are highly ornamental and graceful climbers—as the Wild Cucumber, Bryonopsis, Coccinea Indica, and Abobra, which have delicate foliage and showy fruit, and may be grown where any quick-growing vine is wanted. They are especially good for covering rear fences or unsightly outbuildings.

Some of the varieties have large white flowers which are finer than a Clematis, and of the fruit of large-flowered ones the prettiest hanging-baskets are made. Saw them in two when thoroughly ripe and dry, remove the pulp, scrape the shell clean and thin and give a coat of green or brown shellac inside and out, and hang with brass chains. They are more satisfactory if the gourds are a year old and perfectly dry. A hole must be made for drainage, and in case of bowls, tiny supports fastened to the bottom with glue to raise them from the table, as without the free circulation of air they are liable to mould.

Seed must be sown as early as possible that the fruit may have time to ripen before frost. Set out when all danger of frost is past in any garden soil in a sunny position where they will have good support, as they are vigorous and rapid climbers and will quickly go to the top of a tall tree. They are liable when first set out to be eaten off by cutworms, and they should be protected by a bottomless tin can sunk into the ground two or three inches, care being taken that there are no worms inside the can. The gourds do not grow for some little time after setting out, as they are making roots; but once they begin the development is rapid.

The variegated Japanese Hop is another summer vine that should be extensively grown. Its large, handsome foliage, freely splashed with white, is very showy and effective, and it thrives in almost any situation and soil, though paying well for extra care or attention in the way of cultivation, watering, and food. The vines are not hardy, but, as they self-sow, once established they are practically permanent. Several plants should be set near each other, as only the female plant bears seed. The leaves of this are smaller and the vine more slender. The great-leaved, robust vine bears no seed.

It is better to plant the seed in the fall, as when planted in the spring it may not come up until the following year. If this is the case the ground where it is sown should be left undisturbed until the following spring, when it will make an early appearance. When it does sprout the same season, the seed germinates in from eight to ten days. The plants do equally well on north, south, east or west walls, but should be kept sufficiently watered on the south or west.

There is but one precaution I have found necessary in growing the Japanese Hop: namely, to give it a rather elastic support, a twine trellis being better than a rigid wire one. The finest Japanese Hop I ever saw grew over a south window on a trellis of chicken netting; the growth was wonderful, and the great leaves were beautifully splashed with white. I was exceedingly proud of the vine, but one day I saw it hanging limp and withered from its trellis, and an investigation revealed the astonishing fact that it had grown so rapidly and attached itself so firmly to the unyielding wire that it had pulled its roots entirely out of the ground, literally committing suicide. Since then I have used a more yielding support.

The Japanese Morning-glory should be started in the house or hotbed and not transplanted into the open ground until the nights and ground are warm.

Many of the varieties received direct from Japan are only adapted for growing in pots; that is how the Japanese grow them, and we can hardly expect to improve on their methods. Pot off all plants showing unusual markings, or oddly shaped leaves, and plunge in the sand-box, giving sunshine and abundance of water and using large pots, or shifting frequently as needed. Give liquid manure once or twice a week. Furnish support for the vines to run on, either a trellis or sticks in the sides of the pot and strings run back and forth through and around them, or they may be trained against the wall back of the sand-box. Most of the seeds purchased here, however, are grown in this country, and the plants are as rugged as the old-fashioned Morning-glory. It will be noticed that those with oddly shaped leaves and broad, hairy stems rarely bloom here, the buds appearing too late to develop before frost. Grown in pots these might give some interesting specimens. If only a few of the buds are allowed to develop the size will be greatly increased.