Part 123

Forms small staples from wire.

Holds shoe upper to lip of insole.]

Trims off surplus part of shoe upper and lining.]

In all of the lasting operations the tacks are driven but part way in, except at the heel portion of the shoe, where they are driven through the insole and clinched on the iron heel of the last. The tacks are driven only part way in, in order that they may be afterward withdrawn so as to leave the inside of the shoe perfectly smooth. In making shoes other than Goodyear Welts, with the exception of the Goodyear Turn Shoe, it is necessary to drive the tacks through the insole and clinch them inside the shoe, so that the different portions of the sole inside the shoe have clinched tacks. These are left even after the shoe is finished. This smooth interior of the shoe is one of the essential features of the Goodyear Welt Process.

In the lasting operation there is naturally a surplus amount of leather left at the toe and sometimes around the sides of the shoe, and this is removed on the Rex Upper Trimming Machine in which a little knife cuts away the surplus portion of the leather very smoothly and evenly, and simultaneously a small hammer operating in connection with the knife pounds the leather smooth along the sides and the toe of the shoe. The shoe then passes to the Rex Pounding Machine, in which a hammer pounds the leather and counter around the heel so that the stiff portion of the shoe conforms exactly to the shape of the last.

The shoe is now ready to receive the welt, which is a narrow strip of leather that is sewed along the edge of the shoe, beginning where the heel is placed and ending at the same spot on the opposite edge. This welt is sewed from the inside lip of the insole, so that the needle passes through the lip, upper and welt, uniting all three securely and allowing the welt to protrude evenly along the edge. The needle in making this stitch does not go inside the shoe, but passes through only a portion of the insole, leaving the inside perfectly smooth. This part of the work was formerly one of the most difficult and laborious tasks in shoemaking. As it was performed entirely by hand, the drawing of each stitch depended upon the strength and mood of the workman. It is of course obvious that with different operators stitches were oftentimes of different lengths and drawn at different tensions; for human nature is much the same everywhere, and it is impossible for a workman who has labored hard all day to draw a stitch with the same tension at night as might have been possible in the morning.

WELT AND TURNED SHOE SEWING MACHINE

Upper portion shows operator at machine. The lower shows formation and location of stitch formed by this machine.

Welt Stitch

Welt]

It is surprising how quickly and easily the work is done on the Goodyear Welt Sewing Machine. This famous machine has been the leading factor in the great revolution that has taken place in shoe manufacturing. Its work should be carefully noted--all stitches of equal length and measured automatically, the strong linen thread thoroughly waxed and drawn evenly and tightly; for the machine never tires, and it draws the thread as strongly in the evening as in the morning. Every completed movement of the needle forms a stitch of great strength, which holds the welt, upper and insole securely together.

As the lasting tacks as well as the tacks which hold the insole in place on the last were withdrawn just prior to this operation, it will be seen that the inside of the shoe is left perfectly smooth. After this process the surplus portions of the lip, upper and welt which protrude beyond the stitches made by the Goodyear Welt Machine are trimmed off by the Goodyear Inseam Trimming Machine--a most efficient machine, in which a revolving cup-shaped knife comes in contact with the surplus portions of the leather and trims them off very smoothly down to the stitches.

INSEAM TRIMMING MACHINE.

Trims shoe upper lining and lip of insole smooth down to stitches.]

Beats welt so that it stands out evenly round edge of shoe.]

Workman tacks shank in place and fills bottom with ground cork and rubber cement.]

At this stage the shoe is passed to the Universal Welt Beater, in which a little hammer vibrating very rapidly beats the welt so that it stands out evenly from the side of the shoe. As the leather is bent around the toe, it is the natural tendency of the welt to draw more tightly at that place, and this is taken care of by a little knife which the operator forces into operation, in the beating process, the toe is being taken care of, and it makes a series of little cuts diagonally along the edge of it. The insole and welt now receive a coating of rubber cement. This cement is contained in an air-tight tank and is applied by means of a revolving brush, which takes its supply of cement, as required, from a can.

In this way, an even coating of any desired thickness is given to the insole and welt. This machine has many advantages; the cement being closely confined in the tank, there is almost no waste in its use. Formerly, when this was done by hand, the waste through evaporation or lack of care on the part of the workman was very material.

The heavy outsole of the shoe also receives at this time proper attention. The flesh side of this sole, or the side next to the animal, receives a coating of rubber cement, and after it has dried slightly the operator of the Goodyear Improved Twin Sole Laying Machine takes the work in hand. In this machine there is a rubber pad, or mould, which has been made to conform to the curve in the sole of the shoe. After placing the last on the spindle, which is suspended from the machine and hangs over the rubber mould, the outsole having been previously pressed against the bottom of the shoe, the operator by pressing the foot lever causes this arm to descend, forcing the shoe down into the mould, so that every portion of the sole is pressed against the bottom of the shoe and welt. Here they are allowed to remain for a sufficient length of time for the cement to properly set, the operation being repeated on a duplicate part of the machine, the operator leaving one shoe under pressure while he is preparing another.

SOLE LAYING MACHINE.

Presses outsole to bottom of shoe where it is held by rubber cement.]

Roughly rounds outsole and welt to conform to shape of last. Cuts small channel along edge for stitches.]

The next operation is that of trimming the sole and welt so that they will protrude a uniform distance from the edge of the shoe. This work is performed on the Goodyear Universal Rough Rounding Machine, which gauges the distance exactly from the edge of the last. It is often desired to have the edge extended further on the outside of the shoe than it does on the inside and also that the width of the edge should be considerably reduced in the shank of the shoe. This is taken care of with great accuracy by the use of this machine. The operator is able to change the width at will. By the use of this remarkable machine the operator is also enabled to make the sole of the shoe conform exactly to all others of similar size and design.

Turns back lip of channel preparatory to stitching.]

Coats surface of channel so it may be laid to cover stitches.]

The surplus portion of the leather is now trimmed off on the Heel-Seat Rounding Machine, and the channel cut by the knife on the Rough Rounding Machine is turned up so that it leaves the channel open. This is done by the Goodyear Universal Channel Opening Machine, in which a little wheel, turning very rapidly, lays the lip smoothly back.

~SEWING THE SOLE TO THE SHOE~

The outsole is now sewed to the welt. This operation is performed on the Goodyear Outsole Rapid Lockstitch Machine, which is very similar in operation to the Goodyear Welt Sewing Machine used in sewing the welt to the shoe. The stitch, however, is finer and extends from the channel which was cut for it to the upper side of the welt, where it shows after the shoe has been finished. The lockstitch formed by this machine is a most durable one. Using a thoroughly waxed thread, it holds the outsole securely in place, even after the connecting stitches have been worn off. This is one of the most important machines in the shoemaking process. It is able to sew even in the narrow shank, where a machine using a straight needle could not possibly place its stitch.