Part 122

It might seem that in all this multiplicity of operations confusion would occur, and that the many details and specifications regarding material and design of any given lot of shoes in process of manufacture would become hopelessly entangled with those of similar lots undergoing the same operations. But such is not the case; for, when an order is received in any modern and well-organized factory, the factory management promptly take the precaution to see that all the details regarding the samples to which the finished product is to conform are set down in the order book. Each lot is given an order number and this number, together with the details affecting the preparation of the shoe upper, are written on tags--one for each two dozen shoes--which are sent to the foreman of the cutting room. Others containing details regarding the sole leather are sent to the sole leather room, while a third lot is made out for the guidance of the foreman of the making or bottoming room, when the different parts which have received attention and been prepared according to specifications in the cutting and sole leather rooms are ready to be assembled for the making or bottoming process. If the tags which were sent to the cutting room were followed, it would be found that on their receipt the foreman of this department figured out the amount and kind of leather required, the kind of linings, stays, etc., and that the leather, together with the tags which gave directions regarding the size, etc., was sent to one of the operators of the Ideal Clicking Machine.

~SHOEMAKING MACHINERY IS ALL BUT HUMAN~

This machine has been pronounced one of the most important innovations that have been made in the shoe manufacturing industry during recent years, as it performs an operation which has heretofore successfully withstood every attempt at mechanical aid. Prior to its introduction, the cutting of upper leather was accomplished by the use of patterns made with metal edges, which were laid upon the leather by cutter, who then ran a small sharp knife along the edges of the pattern, cutting the leather to conform to it. This was a slow and laborious process, and if great care was not taken, there was a tendency to cut away from the pattern; and in many cases, through some slip of the knife, the leather was cut beyond the required limits.

This machine has a cutting board very similar to those which were used by the hand workman and over it is a beam which can be swung either to the right or to the left, as desired, and over any portion of the board. Any kind of skin to be cut is placed on the board, and the operator places a die of unusual design on it. Grasping the handle, which is a part of the swinging beam, he swings the beam over the die, and on downward pressure of the handle a clutch is engaged which brings the beam downward, pressing the die through the leather. As soon as this is accomplished, the beam automatically returns to its full height and remains there until the handle is again pressed.

The dies used are but three-quarters of an inch in height and are so light that they do not mar the most delicate leather when placed upon it. They enable the operator to see clearly the entire surface of the leather he is cutting out, and it is obvious that the pieces cut by the use of any given die must be identically the same.

After the different parts required by the tag have been cut out by the operator of the Clicking Machine, some of the edges which show in the finished shoe must be skived or thinned down to a beveled edge. This work is performed by the Amazeen Skiving Machine--a wonderful little machine in which the edge to be skived is fed to a sharp revolving disk that cuts it down to the desired bevel. The machine does the work in a very efficient manner, conforming to all the curves and angles. This skiving is done in order that the edges may be folded, to give the particular edge on which it is performed a more finished appearance. The skived edges are then given a little coating of cement and afterwards folded on a machine which turns back the edge and incidentally pounds it down, so that it presents a very smooth and finished appearance.

Aside from the work of skiving toe caps and folding them, there is generally a series of ornamental perforations cut along the edge of the cap. This is done very often by the Power Tip Press, by means of which the piece to be perforated is placed under a series of dies which cuts the perforations in the leather according to a predetermined design, doing the work all at one time. The number of designs used for this purpose are many and varied, combinations of different sized perforations being worked out in innumerable designs.

On one of the top linings of each shoe there has been stamped the order number, together with the size of the shoe for which the linings were intended. After all the linings have been prepared in accordance with the instructions on the tag, they, in connection with the various parts of the shoe, receive attention from the Stitchers, where all the different parts of the upper are united. The work is performed on a range of wonderful machines, which perform all the different operations with great rapidity and accuracy.

At the completion of these operations the shoe is ready to receive the eyelets, which are placed with remarkable speed and accuracy by the Duplex Eyeletting Machine. This machine eyelets both sides of the shoe at one time with bewildering rapidity. The eyelets are securely placed and accurately spaced; and as both sides of the upper are eyeletted at one time, the eyelets are placed directly opposite each other, which greatly helps the fitting of the shoe, as thereby the wrinkling of the shoe upper is avoided.

With the completion of this operation, the preparation of the shoe upper is finished, and the different lots with their tags are sent to the bottoming room to await the coming of the different sole leather portions of the shoe. These have been undergoing preparation in the sole leather room, where on receipt of tag the foreman has given directions for the preparation of outsoles, insoles, counters, toe boxes and heels, to conform with the requirements of the order.

The soles are roughly died out from sides of sole leather on large Dieing-out Machines, which press heavy dies down through the leather; but to make them conform exactly to the required shape, they are generally rounded out on a machine known as the “Planet Rounding Machine,” in which the roughly died-out piece of leather is held between clamps, one of which is the exact pattern of the sole. On starting the machine, a little knife darts around this pattern, cutting the sole exactly to conform with it.

The outsole is now passed to a heavy Rolling Machine, where it is subjected to tons of pressure between heavy rolls. This takes the place of the hammering which the old-time shoemaker gave his leather and brings the fibres very closely together, greatly increasing its wear.

This sole is next fed to a machine called the “Summit Splitting Machine--Model M,” which reduces it to an exactly even thickness. The insole--which is made of very much lighter leather--is prepared in much the same manner, and in this way it will be noticed that both the insole and outsole are reduced to an absolutely uniform thickness.

The insole also receives further preparation; it is channeled on the Goodyear Channeling Machine. This machine cuts a little slit along the edge of the insole, extending about one-half inch towards its center. It also cuts a small channel along the surface.

The lip which has been formed by the Goodyear Channeling Machine is now turned up on the Goodyear Lip Turning Machine, so that it extends out at a right angle from the insole, forming a lip or shoulder against which the welt is sewed. The cut which has been made on the surface inside this lip serves as a guide for the operator of the Welt Sewing Machine, when the shoe reaches that stage.

The heels to be used on these shoes have also been formed from different lifts of leather which are cemented together. The heel is then placed under great pressure, giving it exact form and greatly increasing its wear.

~THE DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE SHOE COME TOGETHER~

The counters are also prepared in this room, as well as the toe boxes or stiffening, which is placed between the toe cap and the vamp of the shoe. When these are all completed, they are sent to the making or bottoming room, where the completed shoe upper is awaiting them. Here a wonderfully ingenious little machine called the “Ensign Lacing Machine,” passes strong twine through the eyelets and in a twinkling ties it automatically. This is done so that all parts of the shoe will be held in their normal position while the shoe is being made. The knot tied by this machine is perfect and is performed with mechanical exactness. On high-grade shoes this work was formerly performed by hand and it will be readily recognized how difficult it was to obtain uniformity. The spread of the upper at the throat can be regulated perfectly when this machine is used. The different parts of the shoe now commence to come together. The workman places the toe box, or stiffening, in the proper location as well as the counter at the heel, and draws the upper over the last. To the bottom of this last has already been tacked by means of the U. S. M. Co. Insole Tacking Machine--which drives tacks automatically--the insole, which, it will be noticed, conforms exactly to the shape of the bottom of the last. This last, made of wood, is of the utmost importance, for upon the last depends the shape of the shoe.

ASSEMBLING MACHINE

Operator locates back seam of upper on last. Machine drives two tacks which hold it in place.]

The shoe as completed up to this point with the parts mentioned fastened together as shown, is now ready for assembling. The workman, after placing the last inside the shoe upper, puts it on the spindle of the Rex Assembling Machine, where he takes care that the seam at the heel is properly located. He presses a foot lever and a small tack is driven part way in, to hold the upper in place. He then hands it over to the operator of the Rex Pulling-Over Machine.

Draws shoe upper smoothly down to last. Operator adjusts it so that each seam occupies correct position on last. Machine automatically drives back to hold it in place.]

This machine is a very important one; for as the parts of the shoe upper have been cut to exactly conform to the shape of the last, it is necessary that they should be correctly placed on the last to secure the desired results. The pincers of this machine grasp the leather at different points on each side of the toe; and the operator, standing in a position from which he can see when the upper is exactly centered, presses a foot lever, the pincers close and draw the leather securely against the wood of the last. At this point the operation of the machine halts. By moving different levers, the workman is able to adjust the shoe upper accurately, so that each part of it lies in the exact position it was intended when the shoe was designed. When this important operation has been completed, the operator again presses a foot lever, the pincers move toward each other, drawing the leather securely around the last, and at the same time there are driven automatically two tacks on each side and one at the toe, which hold the upper securely in position. These tacks are driven but part way in, so that they may be afterward removed.

HAND METHOD LASTING MACHINE

Last sides of shoe.]

Last toe and heel of shoe.]

The shoe is now ready for lasting. This is one of the most difficult and important parts of the shoemaking process, for upon the success of this operation depends in a great measure the beauty and comfort of the shoe. The Consolidated Hand Method Welt Lasting Machine, which is used for this purpose, takes its name from the almost human way in which it performs this part of the work. It is wonderful to observe how evenly and tightly it draws the leather around the last. At each pull of the pincers a small tack driven automatically part way in holds the edge of the upper exactly in place, so that in the finished shoe every part of the upper has been stretched in all directions equally. The toe and heel of the shoe are considered particularly difficult portions to last properly. This important part of the work is now being very generally performed on the U. S. M. Co. Lasting Machine--No. 5, a machine of what is known as the “bed type.” It is provided with a series of wipers for toe and heel, which draw the leather simultaneously from all directions. There can be no wrinkles at the toe or heel of shoe on which it is properly used and the quality of work produced by it has been very generally recognized as a distinct advance in this important part of shoemaking. After the leather has been brought smoothly around the toe it is held there by a little tape fastened on each side of the toe and which is held securely in place by the surplus leather crimpled in at this point. The surplus leather crimpled in at the heel is forced smoothly down against the insole and held there by tacks driven by a very ingenious hand tool in which there is a constantly renewed supply of tacks.

UPPER STAPLING MACHINE