Part 103

The use of various scents is more sinned against than any other toilet accessory. Only the faintest suggestion of perfume should be allowed to hang about the garments of a well-bred woman or girl. To wear any redolence on the person in the shape of sachet bags is unpardonable. To many people strong perfumes are extremely unpleasant, and those who have regard for the feelings of others would forbear their use for this reason alone, even were it not a sin against the canons of good breeding as well.

When perfumes are used, it is a dainty custom to choose one favorite scent and to use that, and that only, so that in time the sweet, illusive odor becomes almost a part of the personality.

Flowers, fresh, dewy flowers seem the natural adornment of youth especially, and to forswear the pretty custom would appear an uncalled-for giving up of the sweet thought which dedicates the flowers of the field to their human prototypes. Yet there is reason in the custom that has, in great measure, withdrawn them from the heated ball-room and the artificially illuminated dinner table.

Corsage bouquets, in dancing, become an early ruin. Carried in the hand at a ball, they are speedily tossed aside on the nearest point of refuge and left there to ignominiously fade. When flowers are worn at an evening entertainment, choose those that will best stand the light and heat.

The Face Veil.

In spite of the protestations of oculists, women continue to regard veils as an essential part of their toilets; first, because they are becoming; and, second, because they keep their hair in order. The plain tulles and nets, which come in all colors, single and double widths, are always pleasant to wear and less trying to the eyes than the coarser meshes. The veil of Brussels net wrought in sprigged designs is a failure. It is becoming to nobody, and is essentially inartistic.

Women with dark hair and eyes and a brilliant color look well in veils with the dots larger and nearer together. If the skin is clear, white veils are very becoming, though apt to give an impression of a made-up complexion. The woman with fair hair and blue eyes, and without color, generally looks best in a large meshed black veil, with the dots--if dots are worn--far apart. A navy blue veil makes the skin look clear and fair, and a gray veil should never be worn by the pale or sallow woman.

When to Wear Gloves.

The question of when to wear gloves is a much disputed point in the etiquette of dress. They are worn to dinner parties, but custom prescribes that they shall be removed in sitting down at the table. After using the finger-bowl, the gloves should be resumed before leaving the table, or else immediately after returning to the drawing-room. To wear gloves while assisting to pour tea for an "at home," is out of place, but it is very usual to wear them while receiving in the afternoon, though their omission at such a time is pardonable. The visitors, of course, wear both gloves and bonnets.

At a "stand-up" evening supper it is not usual to remove the gloves since there is really no time or place to do it, where each one is expected to leave as soon as possible to make room for the next. Remove the hand only of the right glove and tuck it back under the wrist.

Dancing parties always call for gloves, preferably light in tint. To wear gloves while playing cards is also an unnecessary affectation of elegance. Walking, driving, shopping and all outdoor events, such as lawn parties, etc., call for gloves. Tint and quality of these are to be regulated by the occasion or the costume.

When to Wear Low-cut Gowns.

This question has but one answer, "Never by daylight." In this respect the rule that governs the wearing of a man's dress suit--"from dusk to dawn," is applicable. Even on those occasions when the jealous daylight is shut out and candlelight reigns, dress suits and full décolleté gowns are not permissible. A concession can be made by cutting the corsage a little low in the throat, and by elbow sleeves or almost no sleeves.

For every social function held from midday to a late dinner hour, young girls, especially, should wear their gowns cut high with long sleeves, except on some gala occasion, when the rule may be somewhat relaxed as above.

Even at balls, evening parties, late dinners, the young girl's evening dress, if décolleté, should be very modest in cut. Where a dinner and dance follow a large afternoon reception and the men who are invited are apt to arrive at dinner in full evening dress, a girl's dress may be somewhat elaborated, but not to the extreme of ball costume.

Ball Dress.

For the ball-room the most elaborate dress is to be worn; décolleté corsage, flowers and jewels are all appropriate. Those who dance should wear pale colors and light, floating fabrics, leaving the heavy silks and velvets for those who do not indulge in this amusement.

A low-cut corsage is not expected of elderly women unless they wish it. Chaperons can wear an elegant dinner dress if they desire; velvets or brocades, cut square in the neck, with a profusion of fine lace and rich ornaments. In short, she should be as different as possible from her charge.

If an elderly woman of full figure wears a low-necked dress, a lace scarf or something of that sort should be thrown over her shoulders.

Gowns cut dancing length or with train, are appropriate for the ball-room, but where much dancing is to be indulged in, trains are very much in the way.

Opera Dress.

For the opera the most elegant dressing is desirable. Ladies may wear evening gowns, and men dress suits. If they occupy boxes this is almost an obligation. Light colors render the house more attractive--are, in fact, a part of the whole spectacle. Jewels and flowers are there, and those who wear visiting or street costume are in the minority.

If a man wear a dress suit it is expected that the woman will show him sufficient respect to wear an evening gown. The man's costume is donned out of respect for the occasion and the woman, and she betrays utter ignorance or remissness of duty when she does not return the compliment in kind.

High hats are an abomination at opera or theater. Where anything is worn upon the head, it should be in the shape of a tiny bonnet, a dainty confection of tulle, flowers and ribbon.

This is especially necessary where a public conveyance must be made use of to reach the place. At an opera matinée the bonnet must be worn in connection with an elegant visiting or reception costume.

Middle-aged women wear the same costume at the opera that they would at a dinner party.

Theater Costume.

To dress for the theater is a much simpler matter than for the opera. Display is not required here. Elegant visiting or promenade costume is appropriate. Dressy little bonnets or small hats, gloves, either matching the gown or light in tint, complete the theater toilet. If a large hat is worn to the theater, common courtesy demands its removal that those in the rear may see the stage.