Part 102

Small, thin women should not wear too much black. Let them wear a profusion of fluffy laces about the throat; soft, puffy vests, or, as one writer observes, "learn something from Sara Bernhardt and her consummate skill in concealing bones."

Short, stout women should see that all adornments, such as folds, plaits, etc., keep as much as possible in perpendicular lines. It is a mistake to think that perfect plainness will disguise the breadth, it rather emphasizes it. On this style of woman a loosely-fitted wrap has a better effect for the street than a tight, plain garment.

Common-Sense Sleeves.

A very stout or a very thin woman should never wear extremely light sleeves, no matter what the style may be. The stout woman should also avoid an elbow sleeve with loosely falling ruffles, and the trimming, if possible, should run in lengthwise folds or bands. This precaution tends to decrease the apparent size of the arm. The slender woman, on the contrary, is much improved by the puffed elbow sleeve ending with a fall of lace.

Let women learn to put on belts so that they will slip downward in front and up in the back. This does everything for the waist in making it look slender and graceful. If yokes are worn, it is well to remember that a deep yoke is more becoming than a narrow one. If it is short in front, it looks awkward, and if it is short behind, it gives a round shouldered effect.

Where a rich toilet is worn for any occasion, be sure that everything is in keeping. If the gown be of velvet do not wear with it a linen collar or cheap lace. If real lace is beyond the means there are always the filmy tulles and crêpe lisse. If jewelry is worn, it should be of the best, be it much or little. The fan, also, for such a costume should carry out the idea of luxury.

Cheap, fanciful, pretty things have their place in connection with soft wool, or pretty cotton costumes, but "lightness or grace is one thing; magnificence or luxury, another."

A very young girl should never wear rich, heavy fabrics; they are unsuited to her youthful face and ways.

The evils of tight lacing are so pronounced that it would seem almost unnecessary to remonstrate against them in this age of enlightenment, were they not so continually forced upon our view. Nothing could be more unbecoming to the women fair, fat and forty, who are usually the ones to adopt this custom; an inch less in waist is hardly gained at the price of an unbecoming flush, a labored breathing, and a serious injury to the health, besides the lack of grace that comes from binding and constricting any portion of the human form divine.

Gloves and Shoes.

To have many dresses is always a mistake even among the very wealthy. They are constantly going out of fashion and unless the owner is continually seen at balls, receptions and other gatherings, they are entirely unnecessary.

The glove of to-day is fitted comfortably. Nothing is more indicative of a lack of taste than to crowd the hand into a glove that is several sizes too small for it. The same might be said of the foot, and with more reason, since a painfully tight shoe not only injures the health, comfort and complexion of the wearer, but is ruinous to all grace of carriage.

There is nothing marks the true lady as much as the perfection of neatness and style in gloves and shoes. To be well gloved and to have one's feet neatly clad, no matter how plain the attire, is to be well dressed.

(Other hints on this subject will be found in the departments of "Art in Dress" and "Colors and Complexions.")

The umbrella, too, must be carefully chosen. If it is possible to have parasols and umbrellas for different occasions, then there is no difficulty of choice, but where one must answer for all occasions of the season, let it be a plain, dark or black silk. This will be suitable at all times, but if the fancy of the moment, as to pale and delicate colorings be consulted, the result is too often painfully incongruous. In buying gloves, shoes or umbrellas, it is worth while to invest in a good article. There is no economy in the poorer grades.

Artifices of the Toilet.

All artificial aids to beauty should be sparingly used, and have no place whatever upon the toilet table of the young girl. Powder and paint are so obvious to the eye, that their use, or rather abuse, by some otherwise sensible women, is a continual wonder. A dust of rice powder is sometimes excusable, but there can be no possible apology for the "made-up" faces one sees upon our streets. They deceive no one and have no excuse for being. The woman who stands in the pitiless glare of the footlights must needs add color to replace that stolen from her face by the strong white light of day, but others have no such excuse for "frescoing" the face. It is a sin alike against good taste and good breeding.

There are various simple preparations that can be used to clear the skin, and various massage treatments to smooth out the cruel little lines that time writes on all faces, and kindly unguents to fill out the hollow cheeks and temples, and thus keep the outlines of youth a little longer. And there is wholesome living and vigorous exercise, and daily and revivifying baths to call the flush of health to the cheek; and loving thoughts and kindly deeds to keep the eyes soft and bright, and thus to set the inroads of time at defiance for many years. And since a woman is no older than she looks, and since the prerogatives of youth are dear to the heart, it is her bounden duty to keep herself sweet and young.

There is one excusable addition to the personal charms and that is where nature has denied the grace of luxuriant locks. This lack can be so cunningly supplied by the hairdresser's art that detection is impossible, and as it ever has been, and ever will be, that a woman's hair is a glory unto her, there can be no reason against her hiding from view any lack of it when it is done in an artistic fashion.

When to Wear Jewels.

Mme. de Maintenon declared that good taste simply indicates good sense, but many women who boast of good sense seem not to have the slightest idea of the times and places for wearing precious stones.

It is conceded by all authorities that articles of adornment consisting of or containing jewels or precious stones should never be worn in the street. Exception is made in favor of rings and watches. The woman who wishes to adopt correct form in dress will never wear any but the simplest little pin to fasten her gown at the throat during the morning hours and on the street.

For ceremonious visits, a pretty and ornamental pin of gold is proper, or of gold and enamel, but even then it should have a useful purpose; it should fasten some part of the toilet. The enameled and gold wreaths of myrtle or of forget-me-nots are extremely pretty for these simple pins. So are the true love-nots or a flower of enamel upon gold, but without the all-prevailing diamond dewdrop or center.

For dinner, a woman may wear the richest gems, it being understood that the function is a ceremonious one, and that she shall wear a low gown. Should she dine in a more democratic way and the men of the family do not wear evening dress, she naturally will wear a high gown or one possibly open a little at the throat. She may wear a pin with a single gem under these circumstances.

For balls, operas or entertainments of corresponding splendor, a woman, when she is not herself the hostess, may wear any number of well-chosen jewels. It is quite correct to be sumptuous in this particular, but well to remember that jewels, like flowers, harmonize or do not harmonize, and that emeralds and turquoises, for example, may not be worn in conjunction, because, as the French say, "they swear at each other."

It is not good form to wear ornaments made in the form of beasts or reptiles. The sacred emblem of the cross set in shining jewels and worn at ball or rout, shows a most pitiable ignorance of the eternal fitness of things.

Well bred young girls are limited as to jewels--a string of pearls for the slender neck, a ring with the natal stone or an armament of turquoises and pearls, a little gold love manacle about the wrist, that is all, and quite enough until after marriage. A bride may wear for the marriage ceremony either diamonds or pearls--not in profusion--but never gold ornaments.

Use of Scents and Flowers.