Simplex Munditiis, Gentlemen

PART I. Dress for Gentlemen

DRESS FOR GENTLEMEN

CONTENTS

PAGE

INTRODUCTION 11

MORNING WEAR 15

AFTERNOON DRESS 21

EVENING DRESS 27

THE OVERCOAT 33

ATTIRE FOR RIDING, DRIVING, TRAVELING, YACHTING, AND LOUNGING 38

HOUSE WEAR 48

SLEEPING ATTIRE 50

LINEN 51

UNDERCLOTHING 55

THE ART OF DRESSING THE COLLAR 57

WALKING STICK AND UMBRELLA 63

MISCELLANIES 65

DRESS FOR WEDDINGS—FUNERALS—CHRISTENINGS—AT HOME OR CHURCH—NEW YEAR’S CALLS—MOURNING—CHURCH WEAR—SUSPENDERS—UPPERS—ATTIRE MADE TO ORDER—BLONDES AND BRUNETTES—JEWELRY—DRESSING CASE—ARTICLES FOR SAME—RUBBERS—ENGLISH RAIN ATTIRE—CLOTH BANDS ON TOP-HATS—WIGS—OPERA GLASS—DECORATIONS—FANS—TROUSERS CREASE—POCKETS—MONOCLE—DRESS SHIELDS—ENGLISH HUNT ATTIRE—HUNT BALL—CLOSING REMARKS.

INTRODUCTION

Dress is the embodiment of taste and refinement. A man looks, and is, distinguished, when he shows simple elegance in his dress. It is not necessary to have wealth in order to dress well. With judgment and economy, one can be something of a dresser. This book is but a guide for men who desire to dress, and are perplexed by the multitude of things there are to wear, and the ever-changing styles.

When a thing becomes vulgarly popular, then, if you wish to be in dress, as well as manners, a gentleman, cast it aside, and seek something newer and less common.

Dressing may be carried to any extent, but it is not good taste to do so.

A gentleman is conspicuous for one thing only—his good taste. Above all dress are manners and grace. Without these, one can never be a gentleman.

In the other part of this work, manners and customs may be studied.

A gentleman is a man of taste, culture, and refinement.

No man is a gentleman who merely does the acts of a gentleman. He must show good breeding—in dress, manners, and conversation.

His dress is the perfection of raiment. His manner is grace and ease personified. His conversation, knowledge itself.

Proud, indeed, may the man be who can write after his name—gentleman.

Let “Simplex Munditiis” be your motto for dress.

Each person must remember one thing: that, to be distingué in dress, he must dress, as regards material, richly; and, as to pattern of cloth, plainly. In other words, simple elegance shows the gentleman.

Everything you wear must be immaculate.

There are three dress divisions of the day:

Morning wear.

Afternoon dress.

Evening dress.

The first may be worn any time of the day before 6 P. M., though it belongs to the morning.

The second is not worn before 2 P. M.

The third is not worn before 6 P. M.

The attire for all athletic games, sports, amusements, for the clergy, and gentlemen in the army and navy, it is not within the province of this work to treat of. In fact, we treat of only that which is worn by a gentleman at home or abroad, in summer or winter, when mingling in society.

MORNING WEAR

WORN ANY TIME OF DAY

Indoors or outdoors, morning wear consists of the following, as the tastes of the wearer may dictate.

The Head.—The black felt derby is the proper hat for morning. The light brown in derbys is a pleasing change for spring, summer, or fall wear. But never be without a black derby, as it is the hat worn when not in formal dress.

A derby is never worn with a frock body-coat, a cutaway body-coat, a Cowes body-coat, on a dress body-coat. It belongs entirely to the walking or sack body-coat.

Have your hats made to order. You will be better pleased in the end.

The derby is proper and becoming to men of all ages. I would caution any one against wearing such derbys as are of a pearl, gray, drab, slate, and cigar browns. These are all in bad taste. The slouch felt hat is ignored by gentlemen. If a man desires light shades of derbys, then let him have them the same shade as the suit he wears them with.

The Hand.—Gloves for morning wear should be a dark tan, and made of kid.

Heavy weight for the winter months, and very light for summer.

Raw seams and arrow-back stitching is the style. Generally one button only on wrist.

The leading furnishing shops are recommended for gloves.

If possible, have your gloves made to order; you are then sure of a perfect fit.

Never wear a glove after it becomes soiled. It is just as bad as having dirty hands.

The Foot.—Calf-skin, patent leather, and enamel leather, are used for walking shoes. They should be made with moderately thick soles, taper at the toes, and lace.

It is best to have shoes made to order. Nothing about a man’s dress is so quickly noticed as ill-fitting shoes.

The Body.—The body-coat: This is a black sack body-coat, either double or single breasted. Both styles are correct. The materials used are thibets, cheviots, and black serges. At present they are made with four buttons, very wide collars, and very long in the body.

The waistcoat: This always matches the body-coat in material and pattern. Likewise, it may be double or single breasted. It is not necessary, in this respect, for it to match the body-coat.

Trousers: These may be of any material and pattern. They may match the material of the body-coat, or not, as the taste of the wearer may dictate. It is better taste to wear dark trousers with morning wear. See that your trousers have the proper cut, and fit perfectly. This is at once the most difficult to fit, and the ugliest part—if ill-fitting—of the attire for men. Therefore, give it the most attention. In order to have them cut correctly you must rely on the fashion-plate and its accompanying directions. Insist on your directions being followed by the tailor.

There is also the cutaway suit for morning wear. This is worn mostly by elderly and heavily built men. It consists of a cutaway body-coat four buttons, waistcoat single-breasted, and trousers. These three pieces are always of the same material and pattern. The same things are worn with this as with the sack body-coat.

* * * * *

Heavy cloths for winter and light weights for summer wear.

The sack body-coat becomes all men, tall or short, thin or stout, old or young.

Fancy serge waistcoats, also fine linen waistcoats, and sashes in summer, may be worn with the sack body-coat.

Never wear trousers and waistcoat of one pattern, and body-coat another; it is exceeding bad taste.

Suits, perfectly correct and very elegant, are made of selected materials.

The sack body-coat, waistcoat, and trousers are always, in this case, from the same piece of goods. Some beautiful materials of light shades are made for summer wear. For winter wear darker and slightly heavier materials are used.

* * * * *

A Morning Promenade Dress.—This consists of frock body-coat, waistcoat, and trousers. These three pieces are always cut from the same material and pattern. The body-coat and waistcoat may be single or double-breasted.

Only light shades or patterns of cloths are used. Never have this promenade dress in black. The correct head covering is the black silk top-hat with this promenade dress.

AFTERNOON DRESS

WORN AFTER TWO P. M.

The Head.—A black silk top-hat. Always of the latest pattern, either Paris, London, or New-York make. All are equally stylish. This hat, above all others, should be made to order; this being necessary if you desire a fit both becoming and comfortable.

In this city spring and summer have light weights. For fall and winter a slightly heavier hat is made. This is the only proper hat for afternoon dress in summer or winter.

The Hand.—Light or dark tan kid walking gloves are worn. The back stitching may be black silk or same shade as the glove. One or two buttons.

Undressed kid gloves, either light or dark shades, are also worn especially for afternoon receptions.

The Foot.—The leathers used are patent, and enamel. Laced Bluchers are worn at this time of day. For summer wear, the same, or the same leathers made in ties. Again, I caution you to pay particular attention to the fit, and have them made to order. You exercise your own taste as to the style the shoe is made in.

The Body.—The proper body-coat is the black cutaway. This is now made with three buttons, and wide collar cut low, single-breasted. The material used is diagonal. This body-coat should be of light weight, as it is a dress body-coat. French Thibets are also used.

The Waistcoat.—This is made of the same material as the body-coat. It may be double or single breasted. The waistcoat should be cut low in front, that the large puff scarf may be well exposed. Four buttons.

Waistcoats may be of selected materials such as fancy serges and fine linens. In summer white or black silk sashes are worn.

The Trousers.—These should be carefully selected and well-fitted. The material and pattern should go well with black, as this is always the color of the afternoon body-coat.

Any pattern, checks, stripes, etc., may be worn for afternoon dress. Never wear loud patterns; they are exceedingly bad taste and rowdyish.

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