Recollections of Europe

LETTER I.

Our Embarkation.--Leave-taking.--Our Abigail.--Bay of New York.--The Hudson.--Ominous Prediction.--The Prophet falsified.--Enter the Atlantic.--"Land-birds."--Our Master.--Officers of Packet-ships.--Loss of "The Crisis."--The "Three Chimneys."--Calamities at Sea. --Sailing-match.--View of the Eddystone.--The Don Quixote.--Comparative Sailing.--Pilot-boats.--Coast of Dorsetshire.--The Needles. --Lymington.--Southampton Water.--The Custom-house.

LETTER II.

Controversy at Cowes.--Custom-house Civility.--English Costume.--Fashion in America.--Quadrilles in New York.--Cowes.--Nautical Gallantry. English Beauty.--Isle of Wight Butter.--English Scenery.--M'Adamized Roads.--Old Village Church.--Rural Interment.--Pauper's Grave.--Carisbrooke Cattle.--Southampton.--Waiter at the Vine.--English Costume.--Affinity with England.--Netley Abbey.--Southampton Cockneys.

LETTER III.

Road to London.--Royal Pastime.--Cockney Coachman.--Winchester Assizes. --Approach to London.--The Parks.--Piccadilly.--Street Excursion. --Strangers in London.--Americans in England.--Westminster Abbey. --Gothic Decorations.--Westminster Hall.--Inquisitive Barber.--Pasta and Malibran.--Drury-lane Theatre.--A Pickpocket.--A Fellow-traveller. --English Gentlemen.--A Radical.--Encampment of Gipsies.--National Distinctions.--Antiquities.--National Peculiarities.

LETTER IV.

Quit England.--Approach to France.--Havre.--Our Reception there.--Female Commissionnaire.--Clamour of Drums.--Port of Havre.--Projected Enterprize.--American Enterprize.--Steam-boat Excursion.--Honfleur.--Rouen.--French Exaction.--American Porters.--Rouen Cathedral.--Our Cicerone.--A Diligence.--Picturesque Road.--European Peasantry.--Aspect of the Country.--Church at Louviers.--Village near Vernon.--Rosny.--Mantes.--Bourbon Magnificence. --Approach to Paris--Enter Paris.

LETTER V.. Paris in August 1826.--Montmartre.--the Octroi.--View of Paris.

Paris in August 1826.--Montmartre.--The Octroi.--View of Paris. --Montmorency.--Royal Residences.--Duke of Bordeaux.--Horse-racing. --The Dauphine.--Popular feeling in Paris.--Royal Equipage.--Gardes du Corps.--Policy of Napoleon.--Centralization.

LETTER VI.. Letters of Introduction.--European Etiquette.--Diplomatic

Letters of Introduction.--European Etiquette.--Diplomatic Entertainments.--Ladies in Coffee-houses.--French Hospitality.--Mr. Canning at Paris.--Parisian Hotels.--French Lady at Washington.--Receptions in Paris and in New York.--Mode of Announcement.--Republican Affectation.--Hotel Monaco.--Dinner given to Mr. Canning.--Diplomatic Etiquette.--European Ambassadors.--Prime Minister of France.--Mr. Canning.--Count Pozzo di Borgo.--Precedency at Dinner.--American Etiquette.--A French Dinner.--Servants.--Catholic Fasting.--Conversation with Canning.--English Prejudice against Americans.

LETTER VII.. English Jurisprudence.--English Justice.--Justice in

English Jurisprudence.--English Justice.--Justice in France.--Continental Jurisprudence.--Juries.--Legal Injustice.--The Bar in France.--Precedence of the Law.

LETTER VIII.. Army of France.--Military Display.--Fete of the Trocadero.--Royal

Army of France.--Military Display.--Fete of the Trocadero.--Royal Review.--Royal Ordinance.--Dissatisfaction.--Hostile Demonstration.--Dispersion of Rioters.--French Cavalry.--Learned Coachman.--Use of Cavalry.--Cavalry Operations.--The Conscription.--National Defence.--Napoleon's Marshals.--Marshal Soult--Disaffection of the Army.

LETTER IX

Royal Dinner.--Magnificence and Comfort.--Salle de Diane.--Prince de Conde.--Duke of Orleans.--The Dinner-table.--The Dauphin.--Sires de Coucy.--The Dauphine.--Ancient Usages--M. de Talleyrand.--Charles X. --Panoramic Procession.--Droll Effect.--The Dinner.--M. de Talleyrand's Office.--The Duchesse de Berri.--The Catastrophe.--An Aristocratic Quarrel.

LETTER X.

Road to Versailles.--Origin of Versailles.--The present Chateau.--The two Trianons.--La Petite Suisse.--Royal Pastime.--Gardens of Versailles. --The State Apartments.--Marie Antoinette's Chamber.--Death of Louis XV. --Oeil de Boeuf.--The Theatre and Chapel.--A Quarry.--Caverns.--Compiegne.--Chateau de Pierre-font.--Influence of Monarchy.--Orangery at Versailles.

LETTER XI.

Laws of Intercourse.--Americans in Europe.--Americans and English. --Visiting in America.--Etiquette of Visits.--Presentations at Foreign Courts.--Royal Receptions.--American Pride.--Pay of the President. --American Diplomatist.

LETTER XII.. Sir Walter Scott in Paris.--Conversation With Him.--Copyright in

Sir Walter Scott in Paris.--Conversation with him.--Copyright in America.--Miss Scott.--French Compliments.--Sir Walter Scott's Person and Manners.--Ignorance as to America.--French Commerce.--French Translations.--American Luxury.

LETTER XIII.

French Manufactures.--Sevres China.--Tapestry of the Gobelins.--Paper for Hangings.--The Savonnerie.--French Carpets.--American Carpets. --Transfer of old Pictures from Wood to Canvass.--Coronation Coach. --The Arts in France--in America.--American Prejudice.

LETTER XIV.

False Notions.--Continental Manners.--People of Paris.--Parisian Women. --French Beauty.--Men of France.--French Soldiers.

LETTER XV.

Perversion of Institutions.--The French Academy.--Laplace.--Astronomy. --Theatres of Paris.--Immoral Plot.--Artificial Feelings.--French Tragedy.--Literary Mania.--The American Press.--American Newspapers.--French Journals--Publishing Manoeuvres.--Madame Malibran.

LETTER XVI.

Environs of Paris.--Village of St. Ouen.--Our House there.--Life on the River.--Parisian Cockneys.--A pretty Grisette.--Voyage across the Seine.--A rash Adventurer.--Village Fete.--Montmorency.--View near Paris.

LETTER XVII.

Rural Drives.--French Peasantry.--View of Montmartre.--The Boulevards. --The Abattoirs.--Search for Lodgings.--A queer Breakfast.--Royal Progresses and Magnificence.--French Carriages and Horses.--Modes of Conveyance.--Drunkenness.--French Criminal Justice.--Marvellous Stories of the Police.

LETTER XVIII.

Personal Intercourse.--Parisian Society and Hospitality.--Influence of Money.--Fiacres.--M. de Lameth.--Strife of Courtesy.--Standard of Delicacy.--French Dinners.--Mode of Visiting.--The Chancellor of France. --The Marquis de Marbois.--Political Coteries.--Paris Lodgings.--A French Party.--An English Party.--A splendid Ball.--Effects of good Breeding.--Characteristic Traits.--Influence of a Court.

LETTER XIX.. Garden of the Tuileries.--the French Parliament.--Parliamentary

Garden of the Tuileries.--The French Parliament.--Parliamentary Speakers.--The Tribune.--Royal Initiative.--The Charter.--Mongrel Government.--Ministerial Responsibility.--Elections in France.--Doctrinaires.--Differences of Opinion.--Controversy.

LETTER XX.

Excursion with Lafayette.--Vincennes.--The Donjon.--Lagrange.--The Towers.--Interior of the House--the General's Apartments.--the Cabinet. --Lafayette's Title.--Church of the Chateau.--Ruins of Vivier.--Roman Remains.--American Curiosity.--The Table at Lagrange.--Swindling.

LETTER XXI.

Insecurity of the Bourbons.--Distrust of Americans.--Literary Visitor. --The Templars.--Presents and Invitations.--A Spy.--American Virtue. --Inconsistency.--Social Freedom in America.--French Mannerists. --National Distinctions.--A lively Reaction.

LETTER XXII.. Animal Magnetism.--Somnambules.--Magnetised Patients.--My Own

Animal Magnetism.--Somnambules.--Magnetised Patients.--My own Examination.--A Prediction.--Ventriloquism.--Force of the Imagination.

LETTER XXIII.

Preparations for Departure.--My Consulate.--Leave Paris.--Picardy.--Cressy.--Montreuil.--Gate of Calais.--Port of Calais.--Magical Words.

PREFACE.

It may seem to be late in the day to give an account of the more ordinary characteristics of Europe. But the mass of all nations can form their opinions of others through the medium of testimony only; and as no two travellers see precisely the same things, or, when seen, view them with precisely the same eyes, this is a species of writing, after all, that is not likely to pall, or cease to be useful. The changes that are constantly going on everywhere, call for as constant repetitions of the descriptions; and although the pictures may not always be drawn and coloured equally well, so long as they are taken in good faith, they will not be without their value.

It is not a very difficult task to make what is commonly called an amusing book of travels. Any one who will tell, with a reasonable degree of graphic effect, what he has seen, will not fail to carry the reader with him; for the interest we all feel in personal adventure is, of itself, success. But it is much more difficult to give an honest and a discriminating summary of what one has seen. The mind so naturally turns to exceptions, that an observer has great need of self-distrust, of the powers of analysis, and, most of all, of a knowledge of the world, to be what the lawyers call a safe witness.

I have no excuse of haste, or of a want of time, to offer for the defect of these volumes. All I ask is, that they may be viewed as no more than they profess to be. They are the gleanings of a harvest already gathered, thrown together in a desultory manner, and without the slightest, or, at least, very small pretensions, to any of those arithmetical and statistical accounts that properly belong to works of a graver character. They contain the passing remarks of one who has certainly seen something of the world, whether it has been to his advantage or not, who had reasonably good opportunities to examine what he saw, and who is not conscious of being, in the slightest degree, influenced "by fear, favour, or the hope of reward." His compte rendu must pass for what it is worth.

FRANCE.

LETTER I.. Our Embarkation.--Leave-Taking.--Our Abigail.--Bay of New York.

Our Embarkation.--Leave-taking.--Our Abigail.--Bay of New York. --The Hudson.--Ominous Prediction.--The Prophet falsified.--Enter the Atlantic.--"Land-birds."--Our Master.--Officers of Packet-ships. --Loss of "The Crisis."--The "Three Chimneys."--Calamities at Sea. --Sailing-match.--View of the Eddystone.--The Don Quixote. --Comparative Sailing.--Pilot-boats.--Coast of Dorsetshire.--The Needles. --Lymington.--Southampton Water.--The Custom-house.

TO CAPTAIN SHUBRICK, U.S.N.

MY DEAR SHUBRICK,

"Passengers by the Liverpool, London and Havre packets are informed that a steam-boat will leave the White Hall Wharf precisely at eleven, A.M. to-morrow, June 1st." If to this notice be added the year 1826, you have the very hour and place of our embarkation. We were nominally of the London party, it being our intention, however, to land at Cowes, from which place we proposed crossing the Channel to Havre. The reason for making this variation from the direct route, was the superior comfort of the London ship; that of the French line for the 1st June, though a good vessel and well commanded, being actually the least commodious packet that plied between the two hemispheres.

We were punctual to the hour, and found one of the smaller steamers crowded with those who, like ourselves, were bound to the "old world," and the friends who had come to take the last look at them. We had our leave-takings, too, which are sufficiently painful when it is known that years must intervene before there is another meeting. As is always done by good Manhattanese, the town house had been given up on the 1st of May, since which time we had resided at an hotel. The furniture had been principally sold at auction, and the entire month had passed in what I believed to be very ample preparations. It may be questioned if there is any such thing as being completely prepared for so material a change; at all events, we found a dozen essentials neglected at the last moment, and as many oversights to be repaired in the same instant.

On quitting the hotel, some fifty or a hundred volumes and pamphlets lay on the floor of my bed-room. Luckily, you were to sail on a cruise in a day or two, and as you promised not only to give them a berth, but to read them one and all, they were transferred forthwith to the Lexington. They were a dear gift, if you kept your word! John was sent with a note, with orders to be at the wharf in half an hour. I have not seen him since. Then Abigail was to be discharged. We had long debated whether this excellent woman should, or should not, be taken. She was an American, and like most of her countrywomen who will consent to serve in a household, a most valuable domestic. She wished much to go, but, on the other side, was the conviction, that a woman who had never been at sea would be useless during the passage; and then we were told so many fine things of the European servants, that the odds were unfortunately against her. The principal objection, however, was her forms of speech. Foreign servants would of themselves be a great aid in acquiring the different languages; and poor Abigail, at the best, spoke that least desirable of all corruptions of the English tongue, the country dialect of New England. Her New England morals and New England sense; in this instance, were put in the balance against her "bens," "an-gels," "doozes," "nawthings," "noans," and even her "virtooes," (in a family of children, no immaterial considerations,) and the latter prevailed. We had occasion to regret this decision. A few years later I met in Florence an Italian family of high rank, which had brought with them from Philadelphia two female domestics, whom they prized above all the other servants of a large establishment. Italy was not good enough for them, however; and, after resisting a great deal of persuasion, they were sent back. What was Florence or Rome to Philadelphia! But then these people spoke good English--better, perhaps, than common English nursery-maids, the greatest of their abuses in orthoepy being merely to teach a child to call its mother a "mare."

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