Part 6

LETTER THE FIFTY-FIRST

San Bartolo--Mass--Markets--Rancheros--San Andrés--Insanity--Rancho--House of Don Carlos Heimburger--Wild Scenery--German Songs--Las Millas--Leave taking--Storm--Rainbow--El Pilar--La Gabia--Toluca--News--Copper Pronunciamiento--Return to Mexico--General Moran--Funeral Obsequies--New Theatre--Cock's Mass--Santa Clara--Santa Fe Prisoners--New Year

LETTER THE FIFTY-SECOND

Last Day in Mexico--Theatre--Santa Anna--French Minister's--Parting-- Diligence--Last Look of Mexico--Fatigue--Robbers--Escort--Second Impressions--Baths at Jalapa--Vera Cruz--Some Account of San Juan de Ulua --Siege of 1825--Siege of 1838--General Bustamante--Theatre--Of the North Winds

LETTER THE FIFTY-THIRD

Sail in the Tyrian--Norther off Tampico--The Bar--The River Panuco--The Pilot--The Shore--Alligator--"Paso de Doña Cecilia"--Tampico--Spanish Consul's House--Society--Navigation--Banks of the Panuco--Extraordinary Inoculation--The "Glorieta"--Leave Tampico--Furious Norther--Voyage-- Arrival at Havana

LETTER THE FIFTY-FOURTH

Havana--The Carnival--The Elssler--La Angosta--Ingenio of Count V---a-- General Bustamante--Lord Morpeth--Leave Havana--Voyage in the Medway--Old Friends--Return to the United States

PREFACE

The present work is the result of observations made during a two years' residence in Mexico, by a lady, whose position there made her intimately acquainted with its society, and opened to her the best sources of information in regard to whatever could interest an enlightened foreigner. It consists of letters written to the members of her own family, and, really, not intended originally--however incredible the assertion--for publication. Feeling a regret that such rich stores of instruction and amusement, from which I have so much profited, myself, should be reserved for the eyes of a few friends only, I strongly recommended that they should be given to the world. This is now done, with a few such alterations and omissions as were necessary in a private correspondence; and although the work would derive more credit from the author's own name, than from anything which I can say, yet as she declines prefixing it, I feel much pleasure in making this statement by way of introduction to the public.

WILLIAM H. PRESCOTT.

Boston, December 20, 1842.

GLOSSARY

SPANISH OR MEXICAN WORDS WHICH OCCUR IN THE COURSE OF THE WORK, WHICH ARE GENERALLY EXPLAINED WHEN FIRST USED, BUT WHICH BEING REPEATED, THE READER MIGHT FORGET AND WISH TO REFER TO.

Administrador-Agent. Alameda-Public walk with trees. Aquador-Water-carrier. Alacran-Scorpion. Anquera-Coating of stamped gilt leather, edged with little bells, which covers the back of the horses. Arriero-Muleteer. Arroba-Spanish weight of twenty-five pounds. Azotea-The flat roof of a house. Barranca-Ravine. Botica-Apothecary's shop. Calle-Street. Cargadores-Men who carry loads. Chinguirito-Spirit made from sugar-cane. Chile-Hot peppers. Compadre and Comadre-Godfather and Godmother; names by which two persons address each other, who have held the same child at the baptismal font, or have been sponsors together at a marriage, etc. Canonigo-Canon or prebendary. Comicos-Actors. Camarista-Lady of honour. día de Anos-Birthday. Dulces-Sweetmeats. Díario-Daily newspapers. Frisones-Large horses from the north. Función-Solemnity-festival. Frijoles-Brown beans. Galopina-Kitchen-girl. Garbanzos-Chick-peas Cicer Arietinum. Gachupin-Name given to the Spaniards in Mejico. Garita-City-gate. Goleta-Schooner. Gentuza-Rabble. Honras-Funeral honours. Hacienda-Country-place. Ingenio de Azucar-Sugar plantation. Invalidos--Disabled soldiers. Jarro--Earthen jar. Ladrones--Robbers. Léperos--Beggars, low persons. Litera--Litter. Monte Pio--Office where money is lent on security. Mezcal--Brandy distilled from pulque. Manga--Cloak made of cloth, with a hole in the middle for putting the head through. Novios--Betrothed persons. Nuestro Amo--Our Master, used in speaking of the Host. Ojo de Agua--Spring of water. Portales--Covered portico supported by columns. Pulqueria--Shop where pulque is sold. Paseo--Public walk. Paso--Pace, pacing. Padrino--Godfather. Plaza--Square. Patio--Courtyard. Petate--Matting. Poblana--Woman of Puebla. Pronunciamiento--A revolution in Mexico. Pronunciados--Those who revolt. Rancho--A farm. Ranchero--Farmer. Rebozo--A scarf that goes over the head. Reja--Iron grate. Sopilote--Species of carrion vulture. Sarape--A woollen blanket more or less fine, with a hole for the head to go through. Traspaso--Conveyance, transfer. Tilma--Indian cloak. Tierra caliente--The hot land. Tertulia--An evening party. Toreador--Bull-fighter. Tortilla--Species of thin cake. Tortillera--Woman who bakes tortillas. Vaca--Joint stock in gambling. Vomito--Name given to the yellow fever. Venta_--Inn.

LIFE IN MEXICO

LETTER THE FIRST

Departure of the Norma--Last look of New York Bay--Fellow-passengers --Contrary Winds--Deceitful Appearances--Sunset in Southern Latitudes --Seas passed over by Columbus--Varied Occupations on Shipboard--Berry Islands--Bahama Banks--Evening in a Tropical Sea--L. E. L.--Pan of Matanzas--Morro Castle--Bay of Havana--Arrival--Handsome House in Havana--Sights and Sounds.

PACKET SHIP "NORMA,"

Oct. 27th, 1839.

This morning, at ten o'clock, we stepped on board the steamboat Hercules, destined to convey us to our packet with its musical name. The day was foggy and gloomy, as if refusing to be comforted, even by an occasional smile from the sun. All prognosticated that the Norma would not sail to-day, but "where there's a will," etc. Several of our friends accompanied us to the wharf; the Russian Minister, the Minister of Buenos Ayres, Mr. -----, who tried hard to look sentimental, and even brought tears into his eyes by some curious process; Judge -----, Mr. -----, and others, from whom we were truly sorry to part.

The Norma was anchored in one of the most beautiful points of the bay, and the steamboat towed us five miles, until we had passed the Narrows. The wind was contrary, but the day began to clear up, and the sun to scatter the watery clouds.

Still there is nothing so sad as a retreating view. It is as if time were visibly in motion; and as here we had to part from -----, we could only distinguish, as through a misty veil, the beauties of the bay; the shores covered to the water's edge with trees rich in their autumnal colouring; the white houses on Staten Island--the whole gradually growing fainter, till, like a dream, they faded away.

The pilot has left us, breaking our last link with the land. We still see the mountains of Neversink, and the lighthouse of Sandy Hook. The sun is setting, and in a few minutes we must take our leave, probably for years, of places long familiar to us.

Our fellow-passengers do not appear very remarkable. There is Madame A----, returning from being prima donna in Mexico, in a packet called after the opera in which she was there a favourite, with her husband Señor V---- and her child. There is M. B---- with moustaches like a bird's nest; a pretty widow in deep affliction, at least in deep mourning; a maiden lady going out as a governess, and every variety of Spaniard and Havanero. So now we are alone, C---n and I, and my French femme-de-chambre, with her air of Dowager Duchess, and moreover sea-sick.

28th.--When I said I liked a sea life, I did not mean to be understood as liking a merchant ship, with an airless cabin, and with every variety of disagreeable odour. As a French woman on board, with the air of an afflicted porpoise, and with more truth than elegance, expresses it: "Tout devient puant, même l'eau-de-cologne."

The wind is still contrary, and the Norma, beating up and down, makes but little way. We have gone seventy-four miles, and of these advanced but forty. Every one being sick to-day, the deck is nearly deserted. The most interesting object I have discovered on board is a pretty little deaf and dumb girl, very lively and with an intelligent face, who has been teaching me to speak on my fingers. The infant heir of the house of ----- has shown his good taste by passing the day in squalling. M. B----, pale, dirty, and much resembling a brigand out of employ, has traversed the deck with uneasy footsteps and a cigar appearing from out his moustaches, like a light in a tangled forest, or a jack-o'-lantern in a marshy thicket. A fat Spaniard has been discoursing upon the glories of olla podrida. Au reste, we are slowly pursuing our way, and at this rate might reach Cuba in three months.

And the stars are shining, quiet and silvery. All without is soft and beautiful, and no doubt the Norma herself looks all in unison with the scene, balancing herself like a lazy swan, white and graciously. So it is without, and within, there is miserable sea-sickness, bilge-water, and all the unavoidable disagreeables of a small packet.