Part 5

LETTER THE THIRTY-SEVENTH

Distinguished Men--Generals Bustamante, Santa Anna, and Victoria-- Anecdote--Señor Pedraza--Señor Gutierrez Estrada--Count Cortina--Señor Gorostiza--Don Carlos Bustamante--"Mornings in the Alameda"--Don Andrés Quintana Roo--Don Lucas Alaman--General Moran--General Almonte--Señor Canedo--Señors Neri del Barrio and Casaflores--Doctor Valentin--Don Francisco Tagle--Eight Revolutions

LETTER THE THIRTY-EIGHTH

New Minister--San Angel--Profitable Pulque Estate--The Village-- Surrounding Scenery--The Indians--The Padre--The Climate--Holy Week in the Country--Dramatic Representations--Coyohuacan--The Pharisees--Image of the Saviour--Music and Dresses--Procession-Catholicism amongst the Indians-- Strange Tradition--Paul the Fifth--Contrast between a Mexican and a New England Village--Love of Fireworks--Ferdinand the Seventh--Military Ball-- Drapeaux

LETTER THE THIRTY-NINTH

Holy Thursday at Coyohuacan--Hernan Cortes--His Last Wishes--Padres Camilas-Old Church--Procession--Representation of the Taking of Christ-- Curate's Sermon under the Trees--A Religious Drama--Good Friday--Portable Pulpit--Heat--Booths--Religious Procession--Simon the Cyrenian--Costumes-- Curate's Sermon--Second Discourse--Sentence Pronounced by Pontius Pilate-- Descent from the Cross--Procession of the Angels--Funeral Hymn--The Pesame to the Virgin--Sermon--"Sweet Kitty Clover"--Music in Mexico-- Anecdote

LETTER THE FORTIETH

Balloon--San Bartolo--Indian Women--A Beauty--Different Castes--Indians-- Their Character, etc.--Those of Noble Race--Ball at the French Minister's --Abecilla--Danger of Walking Unattended--Shooting Party--A Murder-- Robbery of a Farmhouse--Discomfited Robber Captain--The "Zambos"-- Letters and Visitors--Country Life in Mexico

LETTER THE FORTY-FIRST

Gambling--Fête at San Agustin--Breakfast at San Antonio--Report--Cock- fight--Ladies--Private Gambling--A Vaca--The Calvario--Bonnets-- Dinner--Evening Ball--Mingling of Classes--Copper Tables--Dresses and Decorations--Indian Bankers, Male and Female--Decorum--Habit--Holders of Banks--Female Gambler--Robbery--Anecdote--Bet--Casa de Moneda--Leave San Angel--Celebration--Address--Cross and Diploma--Reply--Presentation of a Sword--Discourses and Addresses--Reflections

LETTER THE FORTY-SECOND

Italian Opera--Artists, Male and Female--Prima Donna--Lucia di Lammermoor --Some Disappointment--Second Representation--Improvement--Romeo and Giulietta--La Ricci--La Señora Cesari--The Mint--False Coining--Repetition of Lucia--Procession by Night--A Spanish Beauty--Discriminating Audience-- A little too simple--Gold Embroidery--Santiago--Pilgrims--Old Indian Custom--Soiree--Mexico by Moonlight--Mysterious Figure--Archbishop-- Viceroy

LETTER THE FORTY-THIRD

Revillagigedo--The False Merchant and the Lady--The Viceroy, the Unjust Spaniard, the Indian, and the Golden Ounces--Horrible Murder--Details-- Oath--Country Family--The Spot of Blood--The Mother Unknowingly Denounces her Son--Arrest of the Three--Confession--Execution--The Viceroy fulfils his Pledge--Paving of the Streets--Severity to the Monks--Solitary Damsel--Box on the Ear--Pension--Morning Concert--New Minister-"Street of the Sad Indian"--Traditions--A Farewell Audience--Inscription on a Tomb

LETTER THE FORTY-FOURTH

Agitation--Storm--Revolution--Manifesto--Resembling a Game of Chess-- Position of the Pieces--Appearance of the City--Firing--State of Parties-- Comparisons--"Comicios"--The People--Congress--Santa Anna--Amnesty Offered--Roaring of Cannon--Proclamation--Time to Look at Home--The Will of the Nation--Different Feelings--Judge's House Destroyed--The Mint in Requisition--Preparations--Cannonading--"Los Enanos"

LETTER THE FORTY-FIFTH

Leave Mexico--Travelling Equipage--San Xavier--Fine Hacienda-- Millionaires--Well-educated Ladies--Garden, etc.--Tlanapantla--Indian Hut --Mrs. Ward--Doña Margarita--The Pronunciamiento--False Step--Santa Anna in Puebla--Neutrality--General Paredes--President in Tlanapantla--Tired Troops--Their March--Their Return--Curate's House--Murder--General Paredes in the Lecheria--President in Tlanapantla--A Meeting--Return of the President and his Troops--General Paredes and his Men--Santa Anna in Tacubaya--A Junction--President in Mexico--Allied Sovereigns--Plan-- Articles--President declares for Federalism--Resigns--Results-- Hostilities--Capitulation--Triumphal Entry--Te Deum--New Ministry

LETTER THE FORTY-SIXTH

Santa Monica--Solidity--Old Paintings--Anachronism--Babies and Nurses from the Cuna--Society--Funds-Plan--Indian Nurses--Carmelite Convent--Midnight Warning--Old Villages and Churches--Indian Bath--San Mateo--The Lecheria-- Fertility--Molino Viego--Dulness--Religious Exercises--Return to Mexico --Mexican Hotel--New Generals--Disturbances--General Bustamante-- Inconvenience--Abuses in the Name of Liberty--Verses--Independence celebrated

LETTER THE FORTY-SEVENTH

Opera--Santa Anna and his Suite--His Appearance--Belisario--Solitary "Viva!"--Brilliant House--Military Dictatorship--San Juan de Dios-- Hospital de Jesús--Cuna--Old Woman and Baby--Different Apartments-- Acordada--Junta--Female Prisoners--Chief Crime--Travaux Forces-- Children--Male Prisoners--Forçats--Soldiers Gambling--Chapel-- Confessional--Insane Hospital--Frenchmen--Different Kinds of Insanity-- Kitchen--Dinner--Insane Monk--"Black Chamber"--Soldiers--College--Santa Anna's Leg--Projects--All Saints--Señora P---a--Leave-takings

LETTER THE FORTY-EIGHTH

Leave Mexico--Diligence--Indian Padre--Brandy-drinking Female--Bad Roads-- Beautiful View--Escort--Good Breakfast--Crosses--Robber's Head--Select Party--Lerma--Valley of Toluca--Hacienda--Toluca--Count de B---- and Mr. W------The Commandant--Gay Supper--Colonel Y------Day at Toluca--Journey to La Gabia--Heat and Hunger--Pleasant Quarters--Princely Estate--El Pilar--A Zorillo--A Wolf--Long Journey--Tortillas--Count de B------State of Michoacán--Forest Scenery--Trojes of Angangueo--Comfort

LETTER THE FORTY-NINTH

Leave Trojes--Beautiful Territory--Tarrascan Indians--Taximaroa-- Distressed Condition--An Improvement--Cold Morning--Querendaro--Fine Breed of Horses--San Bartolo--Produce--Country Proprietors--Colear--Ride to Morelia--Wild Ducks--Sunset--Cathedral Bell--Cuincho--Curates Morelos, Matamoros, and Hidalgo--Warm Baths--Handsome Girls--Starving Travellers-- Lost Mules--Lancers--Night on a Heap of Straw--Mules Found--Tzintzontzan-- King Calsonsi--Pascuaro--Kind Reception--Bishop--Robbers--Curu--Night in a Barn--Mountain--Uruapa--Enchanting Scenery--Pleasant Family--Jorulla

LETTER THE FIFTIETH

Indian Dresses--Saints--Music--Union of Tropical and European Vegetation-- Old Customs--Falls of the Sararaqui--Silkworms--Indian Painting--Beautiful Heroine--Leave Uruapa--Tziracuaratiro--Talkative Indian--Alcalde's House-- Pascuaro--Old Church--Mosaic Work--The Lake--The Cave--Fried Fish--Rich Indians--Convent--Cuincho--Darkness--Morelia--Alameda--Cathedral--Silver --Waxworks--College--Wonderful Fleas