Part 3

LETTER THE NINTH

Visits from Spaniards--Visit from the President--Disquisition--Poblana Dress--Bernardo the Matador--Bull-fight extraordinary--Plaza de Toros-- Fireworks--Portrait of C---n--Fancy Ball--Dress-Costume of the Patronesses--Beauty in Mexico--Doctor's Visit--Cards of faire part-- Marquesa de San Roman--Toilet in Morning Visits of Ceremony--Attempt at Robbery--Murder of a Consul--La Gúera Rodriguez--Dr. Plan--M. de Humboldt --Anecdote--Former Customs

LETTER THE TENTH

San Fernando--House of Perez de Galvez--A Removal--Size of the Houses--Old Monastery--View by Sunset--Evening Visits--Mexican Etiquette--A Night-- view from the Azotea-Tacubaya--Magueys--Making of Pulque--Organos and Nopal--Environs of Mexico--Miracle--Hacienda--View from the Countess C--- a's House--Arzobispado--Anecdote--Comparative View of Beauty--Indians-- Rancheritas--Mexican Cordiality--Masses for the Dead--San Agustin--Form of Invitation--Death of a Senator--A Mistake

LETTER THE ELEVENTH

Calle de Tacuba--The Leap of Alvarado--The "Noche Triste"--Sale of a Curate's Goods--Padre Leon--Leprosy--Pictures--The Annunciation--The Alameda--Paseo de Bucarelli--The Viga--Indians in Canoes--A Murder--A Country Fête--Visit to the Colegia Vizcaino--The Jota Arragonesa--Old Soldiers

LETTER THE TWELFTH

The Viga during the Carnival--Variety of Equipages--The Millionaires--The Monks--Masked Ball--An Alarming Sight--Medical Students--Dinner at the Prussian Minister's--Rides on Horseback--Indian Love of Flowers--Santa Anita--The Chinampas--Their Origin--Indians in Canoes--Song of "El Palomo"--Fighting--The Great Lakes--The Drain of Huehuetoca--The Great Market of Tlatelolco

LETTER THE THIRTEENTH

Convent of San Joaquin--Mexico in the Morning--Tacuba--Carmelite Prior-- Convent Garden--Hacienda of Los Morales--El Olivar--A Huacamaya-- Humming-birds--Correspondence--Expected Consecration--Visit to the Mineria--Botanic Garden--Arbol de las Manitas--The Museum--Equestrian Statue--Academy of Painting and Sculpture--Disappointment

LETTER THE FOURTEENTH

Palm Sunday--Holy Thursday--Variety of Costumes--San Francisco--Santa Domingo--Santa Teresa--Nuns--Stone Bust--The Academy--Religious Procession--Pilgrimage to the Churches--Santa Clara--Nun's Voice--Orange- trees and Rose-bushes--The Cathedral Illuminated--Our Saviour in Chains-- Good Friday--The Great Square towards Evening--Dresses of Men, Women, and Children--Approach of the Host--Judas--Great Procession--Miserere--The Square by Moonlight--A Lonely Walk--Sabado de Gloria--Ball in Contemplation--Weekly Soirées--Embroidered Muslins--A Tertulia at Home

LETTER THE FIFTEENTH

Letter from the Archbishop--Visit to the "Encarnación"--Reception-- Description--The Novices--Convent Supper--Picturesque Scene--Sonata on the Organ--Attempt at Robbery--Alarms of the Household--Visit to San Agustin-- Anonymous Letter--The Virgin de los Remedios--Visit to the Chapel--The Padre--The Image--Anecdote of the Large Pearl--A Mine

LETTER THE SIXTEENTH

Mexico in May--Leave Mexico for Santiago--Coach of Charles X.--Mexican Travelling--General Aspect of the Country--Village of Santa Clara-- Robbers' House--Temples of the Sun and Moon--San Juan--Mexican Posada-- School-house--Skulls--Hard Fare--Travelling Dress--Sopayuca--Military Administrador--Santiago--Matadors and Picadors--Evenings in the Country-- Dances--Mexican Songs--Cempoala--Plaza de Toros--Skill of the Horsemen-- Omatusco--Accident--Tulansingo--Beautiful Garden--Mexican Dishes--Fruits-- Horses--Games of Forfeits--Ranchera's Dress--Young Girls and their Admirers--Verses--Knowledge of Simple Medicine--Indian Baths--Hidden Treasures--Anecdote

LETTER THE SEVENTEENTH

Arrival at Tepenacasco--Lake with Wild-ducks--Ruined Hacienda--Sunset on the Plains--Troop of Asses--Ride by Moonlight--Leave Tepenacasco--San Miguel--Description--Thunderstorm--Guasco--Journey to Real del Monte-- English Road--Scenery--Village of Real--Count de Regla--Director's House-- English Breakfast--Visit to the Mines--Mining Speculations--Grand Scenery --Visit to Regla--The Cascade--The Storm--Loneliness--A Journey in Storm and Darkness--Return to Tepenacasco--Journey to Sopacuya--Narrow Escape-- Famous Bull--Return to Mexico

LETTER THE EIGHTEENTH

English Ball--Dresses--Diamonds--Mineria--Arrival of the Pope's Bull-- Consecration of the Archbishop--Foreign Ministers--Splendour of the Cathedral--Description of the Ceremony

LETTER THE NINETEENTH

Mexican Servants--Anecdotes--Remedies--An unsafe Porter--Galopinas--The Reboso--The Sarape--Women-cooks--Foreign Servants--Characteristics of Mexican Servants--Servants' Wages--Nun of the Santa Teresa--Motives for Taking the Veil

LETTER THE TWENTIETH

The Convent Entry--Dialogue--A Chair in Church--Arrival of the Nun--Dress --José Maria--Crowd--Withdrawal of the Black Curtain--The Taking of the Veil--The Sermon--A Dead Body--Another Victim--Convent of the Encarnación --Attempt at a Hymn--Invitation--Morning Visit--The Nun and her Mother-- Banquet--Taking Leave--Ceremony of the Veil-taking--A Beautiful Victim-- The Last Look--Presentation to the Bishop--Reflections--Verses

LETTER THE TWENTY-FIRST

San Agustin--The Gambling Fête--The Beauties of the Village--The Road from Mexico--Entry to San Agustin--The Gambling Houses--San Antonio--The Pedregal--Last Day of the Fête--The Cockpit--The Boxes--The Cock-fight-- Decorum--Comparisons--Dinner--Ball at Calvario--House of General Moran-- View of the Gambling Tables--The Advocate--Ball at the Plaza de Gallos-- Return to Mexico--Reflections--Conversation between two Ministers

LETTER THE TWENTY-SECOND

Countess C---a--Gutierrez Estrada--Dinner at General Moran's--Dowager Marquesa--Fête at San Antonio--Approach of the Rainy Season--Diamonds and Plate--Great Ball--Night Traveling--Severe Storm--Chapter of Accidents-- Corpus Christ!--Poblana Dress--Book Club--Ball--Humming Bird--Franciscan Friar--Missions to Old and New California--Zeal and Endurance of the Missionaries--Present Condition--Convent Gardener