Part 2

Madame Calderon does not stint her admiration for the great buildings of the country, both civil and religious, though her descriptions betray only too often the influence of the romantic age in which she lived.

Beautiful indeed as is her description of a garden in Tulancingo, she rises to real eloquence before some of "Nature's pageants," admiring a sunset over the Monastery of San Fernando, walking under the shade of the centennial trees of Chapultepec, or wandering within the gigantic Caverns of Cacahuamilpa, the recollection of which, she says, "rests upon the mind, like a marble dream," and where an unfortunate traveller, years before, had lost his way and met a tragic death.

Prescott's statement that Madame Calderon's letters were not intended originally for publication seems hardly credible; but, on the other hand, there is no proof for the suggestion that she had the letters of Madame D'Aulnoy in mind. Be that as it may, the fact is that just as the French Countess has left us a living picture of Spain in the late seventeenth century, in the same way the wife of the Spanish Minister drew a most faithful pen-portrait of the social, political, and even economic order, in Mexico in the early nineteenth.

As to Madame Calderon de la Barca's personal appearance, since a portrait of her, which is said to exist in the possession of a relative, has never been published, the reader is free to imagine that lively lady as it may best suit his or her individual fancy. That she was clever, well-read, and an excellent judge of character, as well as a true lover of nature and a keen observer of manners and customs, is evident in her letters, which constitute by common consent a most entertaining and truly delectable narrative, which even the lapse of more than a century has not been able to mar.

MANUEL ROMERO DE TERREROS, Marques de San Francisco.

REFERENCES

History of the Conquest of Mexico with the Life of the Conqueror Hernando Cortes, and a view of the Ancient Mexican Civilization. New York, Harper & Bros., 1843.

Life in Mexico, During a Residence of Two Years in That Country, by Madame Calderon de la Barca, with a Preface by W. H. Prescott, author of The History of Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, 1843.

The Attaché in Madrid; or, Sketches of the Court of Isabella II, translated from the German, New York, 1856.

Prescott Unpublished Letters to Gayangos in the Library of the Hispanic Society of America, edited with notes by Clara Louisa Penney, New York, 1927.

CONTENTS

GLOSSARY

LETTER THE FIRST

Departure of the "Norma"--Last look of New York Bay--Fellow passengers-- Contrary Winds--Deceitful Appearances--Sunset in Southern Latitudes--Seas passed over by Columbus--Varied Occupations on Shipboard--Berry Islands-- Bahama Banks--Evening in a Tropical Sea--L. E. L.--Pan of Matanzas--Morro Castle--Bay of Havana--Arrival--Handsome House in Havana--Sights and Sounds

LETTER THE SECOND

Havana Aristocracy--Lucia di Lammermoor--La Rossi and Montresor--Brig-of- war--Countess de V---a--Dinner at H---a's--Southerly Winds--View from the Balcony--Quinta of Count V---a--San Cristobal--Mass at San Felipe--Erard Harp--Dinner at General M---o's--A Dessert at Havana--Queen of Spain's Birthday--Dinner at the Yntendencia--La Pantanelli--Theatre of Tacon-- Railroad--Cure by Lightning--Shops--Ball at the Countess F---a's Last Visit--Souvenirs

LETTER THE THIRD

Departure in the Jason--Spanish Captain and Officers--Life on board a Man- of-War--"Balances"--Fishing--"Le Petit Tambour"--Cocoa-nuts--A Norte--Spanish Proverb--Peak of Orizava--Theory and Practice--Norte Chocolatero--Contrary Winds--Chain of Mountains--Goleta

LETTER THE FOURTH

Distant View of Vera Cruz--Pilots--Boat from the City--Mutual Salutes-- Approach to Vera Cruz--Crowd on the Wharf--House of Don Dionisio V---o-- Guard of Honour--German Piano--Supper--Madonna--Aspect of the City-- Sopilotes--Deliberations--General Guadalupe Victoria--Two-headed Eagle-- Dilapidated Saint--Harp--Theatre--Doña Innocencia Martinez--Invitation from General Santa Anna

LETTER THE FIFTH

Departure from Vera Cruz--Sandhills--Oriental Scene--Manga de Clavo-- General Santa Anna--Breakfast--Escort and Diligence--Santa Fe--Puente Nacional--Bridge sketched by Mrs. Ward--Country in December--Don Miguel-- First Impressions--Fruit--Plan del Rio--German Musicians--Sleeping Captain--Approach to Jalapa--Appearance of the City--Cofre de Perote-- Flowers--House and Rock--Last View of Jalapa--Change of Scenery--San Miguel de los Soldados--Perote-Striking Scene before Day-break--Non- arrival of Escort--Yankee Coachman Dispute--Departure--Company of Lancers --Alcalde--Breakfast at La Ventilla--Pulque--Double Escort--Crosses-- Brigand-looking Tavern-keeper--Ojo de Agua-Arrival at Puebla-Dress of the Peasants--Christmas-eve-Inn-"Nacimiento"

LETTER THE SIXTH

Departure from Puebla--Chirimoyas--Rio Frio--Indian Game--Black Forest-- Valley of Mexico--Recollections of Tenochtitlan--Mexican Officer-- Reception--Scenery--Variety of Dresses--Cheers--Storm of Rain--Entry to Mexico--Buenavista--House by Daylight--Sights from the Windows--Visits-- Mexican Etiquette--Countess C---a--Flowers in December--Serenade-- Patriotic Hymn

LETTER THE SEVENTH

Début in Mexico--Cathedral--Temple of the Aztecs--Congregation--Stone of Sacrifices--Palace--Importunate Léperos--Visit to the President--Countess C---a--Street-cries--Tortilleras--Sartor Resartus

LETTER THE EIGHTH

Ball in Preparation--Agreeable Family--Fine Voices--Theatre--Smoking- Castle of Chapultepec--Viceroy Galvez--Montezuma's Cypress--Vice-Queen-- Valley of Mexico--New Year's Day--Opening of Congress--Visits from the Diplomatic Corps--Poblana Dress--"Función extraordinaria"--Theatre--Visit to the Cathedral of Guadalupe--Divine Painting--Bishop--Beggars-- Mosquitoes Eggs