Journals of Two Expeditions of Discovery in North-West and Western Australia, Volume 2

Chapter 1. From Gantheaume Bay to the Hutt River.

WRECK OF THE SECOND BOAT IN GANTHEAUME BAY. EXPLORE IN ITS VICINITY. ESTUARY AND SCENERY ABOUT IT. PROVISIONS DIVIDED. START FOR PERTH. GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. CROSS A DISTRICT OF RED SANDSTONE. PLAINS ABOUNDING IN THE WARRAN PLANT. SUPERIOR NATIVE PATHS AND WELLS. ESTUARY OF THE HUTT. DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY AND SCENERY. PROGRESS OPPOSED BY NATIVES. THE HUTT RIVER. FIRST HILLS OF THE SOUTHERN IRONSTONE FORMATION.

Chapter 2. From the Hutt River to Water Peak.

WILD TURKEYS SEEN. DIFFICULTY OF URGING THE PARTY FORWARD. THE BOWES RIVER. NATIVE HUTS. THE VICTORIA RANGE AND DISTRICT. THE BULLER RIVER. THE CHAPMAN RIVER. SEARCH FOR A MISSING MAN. SCENE WITH NATIVES. RETURN OF PARTY FROM SEARCH. THE MAN FOUND. THE GREENOUGH RIVER. CROSS THE HEADS OF TWO BAYS. MORE NATIVE HUTS. AUSTRALIND. THE IRWIN RIVER. SEARCH FOR WATER. WATER PEAK HILL. BENIGHTED IN RETURNING TO THE PARTY.

Chapter 3. From Water Peak to Gairdner's Range.

RETURN TO THE PARTY. DESTRUCTION OF USELESS BAGGAGE. CRITICAL SITUATION. DIVIDE THE PARTY, AND PROCEED WITH THE STRONGEST TO PERTH FOR ASSISTANCE. ARRANGEMENTS AT STARTING. THE ARROWSMITH RIVER. NATIVES. MOUNT HORNER. GAIRDNER'S RANGE. GENEROUS CONDUCT OF ONE OF THE MEN.

Chapter 4. From Gairdner's Range to Perth.

THE HILL RIVER. DISCOVERY OF A NATIVE PROVISION STORE. BARREN COUNTRY. SUFFERINGS FROM THIRST. SMITH'S RIVER. LONG AND UTTER DESTITUTION OF FOOD AND WATER. UNSUCCESSFUL SEARCH FOR WATER WITH KAIBER. HIS TREACHEROUS INTENTIONS. RETURN TO THE MEN. DISTRESSING SYMPTOMS FROM THIRST. LAST EFFORTS. FORTUNATE DISCOVERY OF A MOIST MUD-HOLE. PANGS OF HUNGER. RIVER OF RUNNING WATER. NATIVE SUPERSTITIONS. MISERY FROM RAIN AND COLD. PASS THE MOORE RIVER. JOYFUL INTERVIEW WITH A FRIENDLY TRIBE. NATIVE HOSPITALITY. SUPERSTITIONS OF MY MEN. ARRIVAL AND RECEPTION AT PERTH.

Chapter 5. From Water Peak to Perth.

(MR. WALKER'S PARTY.)

PARTY SENT IN SEARCH FROM PERTH. RETURN WITH CHARLES WOODS. SECOND PARTY IN SEARCH, UNDER MR. ROE. ARRIVAL OF MR. WALKER AT PERTH. NARRATIVE OF THEIR PROCEEDINGS FROM WATER PEAK. EXTREME DISTRESS FROM HUNGER AND THIRST. DEATH OF MR. SMITH. TIMELY DISCOVERY OF THE REST BY MR. ROE. MR. ROE'S REPORT.

Chapter 6. Summary of Discoveries.

RIVERS AND MOUNTAIN RANGES DISCOVERED. DISTRICTS OF BABBAGE AND VICTORIA. MR. MOORE'S VOYAGE TO HOUTMAN'S ABROLHOS AND PORT GREY. DISTRICT TO THE NORTH OF PERTH.

Chapter 7. Voyage Homewards.

NATURAL HISTORY.

CHAPTER 8. THE OVERLANDERS.

CLASS OF PERSONS. THEIR MODE OF LIFE. SUDDEN ACCUMULATION OF WEALTH. EFFECTS OF THEIR ENTERPRISES. MAGNITUDE OF THEIR OPERATIONS. RAPID INCREASE OF WEALTH IN NEW SETTLEMENTS. SPREAD OF STOCK STATIONS. COURSE OF THE OVERLANDERS THROUGH AUSTRALIA. COMMUNICATION BETWEEN SOUTHERN AND WESTERN AUSTRALIA. GENERAL CONSEQUENCES OF THE SPREAD OF COMMERCE AND EMIGRATION.

THE ABORIGINES.

Chapter 9. Native Language.

RADICALLY THE SAME THROUGHOUT THE CONTINENT. CAUSES OF A CONTRARY OPINION. DIFFERENCE OF DIALECTS. EXAMPLES. CAUSES OF ERROR IN FORMER ENQUIRERS.

Chapter 10. Their Traditional Laws.

ERRORS OF THEORETICAL WRITERS REGARDING THE SAVAGE STATE. COMPLEX LAWS OF SAVAGE LIFE. CONSIDERATIONS ON THEIR ORIGIN.

Chapter 11. Laws of Relationship, Marriage, and Inheritance.

RELATIONSHIP AND MARRIAGE. DIVISION OF FAMILIES. LAW OF MARRIAGE. COINCIDENT INSTITUTIONS AMONGST THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS. ORIGIN OF FAMILY NAMES. SECOND COINCIDENCE. BETROTHMENTS. WIDOWS. OBLIGATIONS OF RELATIONSHIP. DIFFICULTY OF PURSUING THE ENQUIRY. PROPERTY VESTED IN INDIVIDUALS. UNIVERSALITY OF THIS CUSTOM. LINE OF INHERITANCE. CERTAIN LAWS REGARDING FOOD.

Chapter 12. Crimes and Punishments.

SUPERSTITIOUS REVENGE OF NATURAL DEATH. MURDER. STEALING A WIFE. BREACH OF MARRIAGE LAWS. IMPLICATION OF A MURDERER'S FAMILY IN HIS CRIME. ORDEAL AND PUNISHMENT FOR OTHER TRANSGRESSIONS.

Chapter 13. Social Condition and Domestic Habits.

POPULATION. TERM OF LIFE. CONDITION OF OLD AGE. AND OF YOUNG WOMEN. AVERAGE PROPORTION OF BIRTHS. IDIOTS AND LUNATICS. INFLUENCE OF POLYGAMY ON SOCIAL HABITS. MODE OF CONVERSATIONAL INTERCOURSE. CONSEQUENCES OF JEALOUSY. DANCES. CEREMONIES ON MEETING.

Chapter 14. Food and Hunting.

ERRORS REGARDING SCARCITY OF THEIR FOOD. VARIETIES OF IT IN DIFFERENT LATITUDES. CAUSES OF OCCASIONAL WANT. LIST OF EDIBLE ARTICLES. IMPLEMENTS FOR DESTROYING ANIMALS. CONTENTS OF A NATIVE WOMAN'S BAG. DIFFERENT METHODS OF CATCHING KANGAROOS. COOKING A KANGAROO. METHODS OF TAKING AND COOKING FISH. FEASTING ON A STRANDED WHALE. KILLING WILD DOGS. TURTLE. BIRDS. OPOSSUMS. FROGS. SHELLFISH. GRUBS, AND WALLABIES. EDIBLE ROOTS AND SEEDS. MODE OF COOKING AND PREPARING THEM. FUNGI. GUMS. COMMON RIGHTS IN CERTAIN FOOD.

Chapter 15. Songs and Poetry.

GENERAL PRACTICE OF SINGING. SONG OF AN OLD MAN IN WRATH. POETS. TRADITIONAL SONGS. NATIVE OPINION OF EUROPEAN SINGING. EXAMPLES OF SONGS FOR VARIOUS OCCASIONS. INFLUENCE OF SONGS IN ROUSING THE ANGRY PASSIONS OF THE MEN.

Chapter 16. Funeral Ceremonies, Superstitions, and Remarkable Customs.

DEATH AND BURIAL OF A NATIVE NEAR PERTH. BURIAL OF A NATIVE IN THE LESCHENAULT DISTRICT. CUSTOM OF LACERATING THEMSELVES, AND WATCHING AMONG THE GRAVES. THE BOYL-YAS OR NATIVE SORCERERS. KAIBER'S ACCOUNT OF THEM. THEIR OPINION OF THE NIGHTMARE. VENERATION FOR CRYSTAL STONES. CIRCUMCISION. OTHER CUSTOMS.

Chapter 17. Characteristic Anecdotes.

MIAGO'S IMAGINARY SPEECH AS GOVERNOR. WARRUP'S ACCOUNT OF HIS JOURNEY WITH MR. ROE. TRANSACTIONS WITH THE NATIVES IN A CASE OF POTATO STEALING. JUDICIAL CASE OF ASSAULT.

Chapter 18. Influence of Europeans on the Natives.

CAUSES WHY IT HAS NOT HITHERTO BEEN BENEFICIAL. WRETCHED STATE OF THE NATIVE POPULATION. PREJUDICES AGAINST THEM. EVIL EFFECTS FROM THEIR FEROCIOUS CUSTOMS REMAINING UNCHECKED. PLAN FOR PROMOTING THEIR CIVILIZATION.

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

1. Native of Western Australia. Captain Grey, delt. G. Foggo, Lithographer. M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers.

2. Mount Victoria and Mount Albert.

3. Glaucus, Sp.

3a. Janthina.

4. Cymothoa, Sp.

5. Stenopteryx, Sp.

6. Form of basaltic dykes at Gregory's Valley, St. Helena.

7. Geological Section from Gregory's Valley, St. Helena.

8. Crossing Cattle over the Murray, near Lake Alexandrina. Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by G. Hamilton, Esquire. M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone Place.

9. Basaltic Rocks, Campaspi River, near Port Phillip. Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by G. Hamilton, Esquire. M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone Place. Published by T. & W. Boone, London.

REPTILES AND AMPHIBIA.

10.1. Ronia catenulata (Gray).

10.2. Aprasia pulchella (Gray).

10.3. Delma fraseri (Gray).

11.1. Lialis burtonii (Gray).

11.2. Soridia lineata (Gray).

12.1. Moloch horridus (Gray).

13.1. Elaps gouldii (Gray).

13.2. Elaps coronatus (Schlegel).

13.3. Calamaria diadema (Schlegel).

13.4. Lialis burtonii (Gray).

14. Hydraspis australis (Gray).

15. Chelodina oblonga (Gray).

16.1. Hyla binoculata (Gray).

16.2. Hyla adelaidensis (Gray).

17.1. Breviceps gouldii (Gray).

17.2. Helioporus albo punctatus (Gray). 17.2.a. fore foot. 17.2.b. hind foot.

INSECTS.

18. INSECTS 1. Brachysternus (E.) lamprimoides.

19.1. INSECTS 2. Biphyllocera kirbyana.

19.2. INSECTS 2. Biphyllocera fabriciana.

20. INSECTS 3. Helaeus echidna.

21. INSECTS 4. Bardistus cibarius.

22. INSECTS 5. Tympanophora pellucida.

23. INSECTS 6. Choerocydnus foveolatus.

24. INSECTS 7. Hesperia sophia.

25. INSECTS 8.1.a. Hecatesia thyridion female.

25. INSECTS 8.1.b. Hecatesia thyridion male upper side.

25. INSECTS 8.1.c. Hecatesia thyridion under.

25. INSECTS 8.1.d. Hecatesia thyridion fenestra in wing of male.

25. INSECTS 8.2. Hecatesia fenestrata male.

26. INSECTS 9. Cossodes lyonetii.

27. INSECTS 10. Trichetra isabella male.

28. INSECTS 11. Trichetra isabella female.

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APPENDIX.

A. Genealogical List, to show the manner in which a native family becomes divided.

B. Mount Fairfax, the Wizard Hills, and Champion Bay.

C. Contributions towards the Geographical distribution of the Mammalia of Australia, with notes on some recently discovered Species, by J.E. Gray, F.R.S., etc. etc., in a letter addressed to the Author.

D. A List of the Birds of the Western coast, furnished by Mr. Gould.

E. A Catalogue of the Species of Reptiles and Amphibia hitherto described as inhabiting Australia, with a description of some New Species from Western Australia, and some remarks on their geographical distribution, by John Edward Gray, F.R.S., etc. etc., in a note to the author.

F. Notes on some Insects from King George's Sound, collected and presented to the British Museum, by Captain George Grey, by Adam White, Esquire, British Museum, addressed in a letter to the author.

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JOURNALS

EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY.

Chapter 1. From Gantheaume Bay to the Hutt River.

WRECK OF THE SECOND BOAT IN GANTHEAUME BAY.

A few moments were sufficient to enable us all to recollect ourselves: two men endeavoured to keep the boat's stern on to the sea, whilst the rest of us lightened her by carrying everything we could on shore, after which we hauled her up. The custom had always been for the other boat to lie off until I made the signal for them to run in, and it accordingly was now waiting outside the breakers. Her crew had not seen our misfortunes owing to the height of the surf, which, when we were under it, shut us out from their view, and now perceiving that we were on shore and the boat hauled up, they concluded all was right; and notwithstanding I made every possible sign to them not to beach, running as far as I could venture into the sea and shouting out to them, my voice was drowned by the roar of the surge, and I saw them bounding on to, what I thought, certain destruction. We of course were all turned to render assistance. They fortunately kept rather to the south of the spot on which we had beached, and where it was much less rocky, so that the danger they incurred in reaching the shore was slight in comparison to ours; yet some of the planks of this boat were split throughout their entire length.

EXPLORE IN ITS VICINITY. COUNTRY ABOUT GANTHEAUME BAY. GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. CROSS A DISTRICT OF RED SANDSTONE.

Whilst all hands were employed in endeavouring to repair damages I ascended a hill to reconnoitre our present position and found we were in a country of a pleasing and romantic appearance, and although the land was not good the nature of the soil made me aware that we were most probably in the vicinity of a large tract of better quality; indeed this was the only part of South-west Australia in which I had met with the ancient red sandstone of the north-west coast; immediately behind the sandhills on which I stood was a thick Casuarina scrub which sloped down into a deep valley, and beyond this rose lofty and fantastic hills. After I had for some time looked round on this scene I returned to the party and received the report of the carpenters, who, having examined the boats, stated their inability to render either of them fit for sea. To this I had already made up my mind; and even if the boats had been uninjured I doubt whether we could ever have got them off again through the tremendous surf which was breaking on this part of the shore; whilst to have moved them to any distance would, in our present weak and enfeebled state, have been utterly impossible.

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