SECTION VIII.. Northumberland.

NORTHUMBERLAND.

Joins Westmorland on the southward, and is bounded eastwardly by the Gulph of Saint Lawrence, and Bay of Chaleur. On the northwestward by the Bay of Chaleur to the river Ristigouche, and westwardly by a continuation of the western boundary line of Westmorland. The population of this county amounts to fifteen thousand eight hundred and twenty-nine.

This extensive county lies along the Gulph of Saint Lawrence having a great extent of sea-coast. It includes several large bays and rivers, and comprises more than one third of the Province. It contains the following Parishes:--Newcastle, Chatham, Ludlow, Northesk, Alnwick, Carleton, Beresford, Glenelg, Saumarez, Wellington, and Nelson. It is a great lumbering county, and furnishes more squared timber annually than the whole Province besides: The pine is of the best quality, and found in immense quantities along the numerous streams and rivers with which this part of the country abounds. The lumber shipped from this county generally commands a better price in the British market than from any other part of the Province. The principal port for shipping is Miramichi, which is crowded with vessels during the summer and autumn. The river has two main branches called the northwest and southwest. Vessels load in different parts of the river, and rafts are brought to the shipping with the greatest ease. Shipping go up the river as far as Fraser's Island for cargoes and farther on the northwest, where there are several trading establishments. Newcastle is a considerable place for loading, and although it may be considered the county town, has nothing particular. About two miles below this place there is a trading establishment belonging to Mr. ABRAHAMS, and two miles farther down is the establishment of RANKIN, & CO. Indeed wherever there is a convenient cove, vessels lay and load. Chatham four miles below Newcastle on the opposite side of the river, is also a considerable shipping place. It has a Church with several fine stores and buildings. There are but few places along the entrance of this river but what are convenient for shipping. Upwards of three hundred sail load annually at Miramichi. The timber is paid for part in specie, and part in British and West-India goods and provisions.

A stranger would naturally suppose, that such a trade must produce great riches to the country; and that great and rapid improvements would be made. That large towns would be built--that the fair produce of such a trade would be seen in commodious and elegant houses, extensive stores and mercantile conveniences, in public buildings for ornament and utility, good roads and improved seats in the vicinity of the sea-ports, with Churches, Kirks, Chapels, &c.: All these with many other expectations would be but a matter of course. But here he would not only be disappointed, but astonished at the rugged and uncouth appearance of most part of this extensive county. There is not even a place that can claim the name of a town. The wealth that has come into it, has passed as through a thoroughfare to the United States, to pay for labour or cattle. The persons principally engaged in shipping the timber have been strangers who have taken no interest in the welfare of the country; but have merely occupied a spot to make what they could in the shortest possible time. Some of these have done well, and others have had to quit the trade: but whether they won or lost the capital of the country has been wasted, and no improvement of any consequence made to compensate for it, or to secure a source of trade to the inhabitants, when the lumber shall fail. Instead of seeing towns built, farms improved, and the country cleared and stocked with the reasonable returns of so great a trade; the forests are stripped and nothing left in prospect, but the gloomy apprehension when the timber is gone, of sinking into insignificance and poverty. Formerly the woods swarmed with American adventurers who cut as they pleased. These men seeing the advantages that were given them, and wishing to make the most of their time, cut few but prime trees, and manufactured only the best part of what they felled, leaving the tops to rot; by this mode more than a third of the timber was lost. This with their practice of leaving what was not of the best quality after the trees were felled, has destroyed hundreds of thousands of tons of good timber: And when this was stopped by permitting none but British subjects and freeholders to obtain licenses, the business was not much mended as any person wishing to enter into the trade could, by purchasing a small sterile spot for a small trifle (provided he was a British subject) get in the way of monopolizing the woods. These are some of the causes that have and still do operate against the prosperity of the country. Men who take no interest in the welfare of the province, continue to sap and prey on its resources.

The other sea-ports in this county are Saint Peters, Richibucto, and Ristigouche, at which places there is a considerable trade carried on in squared timber, &c. but they have nothing of consequence to merit a particular description. Besides the Miramichi already described, this county is watered by several considerable rivers, the principal of which is the Ristigouche, which falls into the Bay of Chaleur, and communicates by a short portage with Grand River which falls into the Saint John fifteen miles above the great falls. The smaller rivers are numerous, some of them have settlements along their banks and others are but little known. The inhabitants are a mixture of Europeans and Americans. A number of the descendants of the French neutrals are settled in this county, particularly on the river Cocagne where there are several villages with Catholic Chapels; they are also settled at Buctouche, Richibucto and along the sea-board as far as the Bay of Chaleur. They are generally agriculturalists and quiet orderly settlers.

Having thus gone briefly through the different counties, I shall conclude this chapter with a statement of the distances of the principal points on the Great Road of communication from St. John to Quebec:

From St. John to Fredericton, 92 miles on the western From Fredericton to the Presque-Isle, 84 side of the river. From Presque-Isle to Grand Falls, 52 Thence to the Madawaska Falls, 45 To the river Des Caps near Kamouraska, 84 Thence to Quebec, 107 --- 464

making in the whole a distance of four hundred and sixty-four miles from the sea-board to Quebec, according to the present routes; nearly two thirds of which is along the great river St. John.

The great road of communication between this Province and Canada, has been much neglected, particularly about the Grand Falls where the road has been but lately cut and is but little improved, although this has been the route for the couriers upwards of forty years; but as the attention of Government is now turned to that object it is probable there will soon be an alteration for the better.

In opening new roads there is not sufficient pains taken to explore the best ground in commencing. Frequently after the roads are considerably improved, and much money expended, better routes are discovered and most parts of the old road are abandoned. To remedy this where the road runs along the course of a river it would be advisible to explore the country some distance back, for as the banks of the rivers are in many places very high the streams that run into them indent the country and form hollows and hills near their exit that are nearly impassable; when by going a little back the land falls and their banks have a gradual slope over which a good road may be made with ease. This although not a general rule, will hold good in most parts of the country.