Part 464

Wart Cure.—The following is especially useful in cases where the warts are very numerous:

I.—Chloral hydrate 1 part Acetic acid 1 part Salicylic acid 4 parts Sulphuric ether 4 parts Collodion 5 parts

Mix. Directions: Every morning apply the foregoing to the warts, painting one coat on another. Should the mass fall off without taking the warts with it, repeat the operation. Take, internally 10 grains of burnt magnesia daily.

II.—Sulphur 10 parts Acetic acid 5 parts Glycerine 25 parts

Keep the warts covered with this mixture.

WASHING FLUIDS AND POWDERS: See Laundry Preparations.

WASTE, PHOTOGRAPHIC, ITS DISPOSITION: See Photography.

WATCH—DIAL CEMENTS: See Adhesives, under Jewelers’ Cements.

WATCH GILDING: See Plating.

«Watchmakers’ Formulas»

«WATCH MANUFACTURERS’ ALLOYS.»

Some very tenacious and hard alloys, for making the parts of watches which are not sensitive to magnetism, are as follows:

I II III IV V VI VII

Platinum 62.75 62.75 62.75 54.32 0.5 0.5 — Copper 18 16.20 16.20 16 18.5 18.5 25 Nickel 18 18 16.50 24.70 — 2 1 Cadmium 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 — — — Cobalt — — 1.50 1.96 — — — Tungsten — 1.80 1.80 1.77 — — — Palladium — — — — 72 72 70 Silver — — — — 6.5 7 4 Rhodium — — — — 1 — — Gold — — — — 1.5 — —

A non-magnetic alloy for watch-springs, wheels, etc.: Gold, 30 to 40 parts; palladium, 30 to 40 parts; copper, 10 to 20 parts; silver, 0.1 to 5 per cent; cobalt, 0.1 to 2.5 per cent; tungsten, 0.1 to 5 per cent; rhodium, 0.1 to 5 per cent; platinum, 0.1 to 5 per cent.

«An Alloy for Watch Pinion Sockets.»—Gold, 31 parts; silver, 19 parts; copper, 39 parts; palladium, 1 part.

«Replacing Rubies whose Settings have Deteriorated.»—Enlarge, with the squarer (steel brooch for enlarging holes), the hole of the old setting, and adjust it, with hard rubbing, to the extremity of a stem of pierced brass wire. Take the stem in an American nippers, and set the ruby at the extremity (the setting may be driven back by using a flat burnishing tool, very gently). Then take off with a cleaving file the part of the stem where the ruby is set, and diminish it to the thickness desired, by filing on the finger, or on cork. These operations finished, {737} a set stopper is obtained which now needs only to be solidly fixed at the suitable height, in the hole prepared.

«To Straighten Bent Teeth.»—Bent teeth are straightened by means of the screwdriver used as a lever against the root of the adjacent teeth, and bent pivots may be held in the jaws of the pliers and the pinion bent with the fingers in the direction and to the extent required. For such a purpose, pliers having the jaws lined with brass are used so that the pivot is not bruised, and the bending has to be done with great care.

«To Renew a Broken Barrel Tooth.»—Frequently, in consequence of the breaking of a spring, a tooth of a barrel is broken. Sometimes it may only be bent, in which case the blade of a penknife may be used with care. If 2 or 3 successive teeth are lacking, the best way is to change the barrel, but a single tooth may be easily renewed in this way: Drill a hole through the thickness of the tooth, taking care not to penetrate the drum; then fit in a piece of metal tightly and give it, as well as possible, the correct form of the tooth. To assure solidity, solder it; then clean and round the edges. Properly executed the repair will scarcely be noticed.

«Heated Sawdust.»—Sawdust is known to have been employed from time immemorial by watchmakers and goldsmiths for the purpose of drying rinsed articles. The process of drying can be accelerated four-fold if the sawdust is heated before use. This must, however, be done with great caution and constant stirring.

«To Repair a Dial, etc., with Enamel Applied Cold.»—There are two kinds of false enamel for application, when cold, to damaged dials. The first, a mixture of white rosin and white lead, melts like sealing wax, which it closely resembles. It is advisable when about to apply it to gently heat the dial and the blade of a knife, and with the knife cut the piece of enamel of the requisite size and lay it on the dial. The new enamel must project somewhat above the old. When cold the surface is leveled by scraping, and a shining surface is at once produced by holding at a little distance from the flame of a spirit lamp. It is necessary to be very careful in conducting this operation, as the least excess of heat will burn the enamel and turn it yellow. It is, however, preferable to the following although more difficult to apply, as it is harder and does not become dirty so soon. The second false enamel contains white lead mixed with melted white wax. It is applied like cement, neatly filling up the space and afterwards rubbing with tissue paper to produce a shining surface. If rubbed with a knife blade or other steel implement its surface will be discolored.

«Lettering a Clock Dial.»—Painting Roman characters on a clock dial is not such a difficult task as might at first be imagined. If one has a set of drawing instruments and properly proportions the letters, it is really simple. The letters should be proportioned as follows: The breadth of an “I” and a space should equal 1⁠/⁠2 the breadth of an “X,” that is, if the “X” is 1⁠/⁠2 inch broad, the “I” will be 3⁠/⁠16 inch broad and the space between letters inch, thus making the “I” plus one space equal to 1⁠/⁠4 inch or half the breadth of an “X.” The “V’s” should be the same breadth as the “X’s.” After the letters have been laid off in pencil, outline them with a ruling pen and fill in with a small camel’s-hair brush, using gloss black paint thinned to the proper consistency to work well in the ruling pen. Using the ruling pen to outline the letters gives sharp straight edges, which it would be impossible to obtain with a brush in the hands of an inexperienced person.

«Verification of the Depthings.»—In the verge watches, the English watches, and those of analogous caliber, it is often difficult to verify the depthings, except by the touch. For this reason we often find the upper plate pierced over each depth. In the jeweled places, instead of perforating the upper plate, it suffices to deposit a drop of very limpid oil on the ruby, taking care that it does not scatter. In this manner a lens is formed and one may readily distinguish the depthing.

«To Make or Enlarge a Dial Hole.»—By wetting the graver or the file with spirit of turpentine, cracks may be avoided and the work will be accomplished much quicker.

«To Repair a Repeating Clock-Bell.»—When the bell is broken, whether short off or at a distance, file it away and pierce it, and after having sharpened a little the stem of the spring which remains, push by force, in the hole just made, a thin piece of solder (pewter). The sound will not have changed in any appreciable manner.

A seconds pendulum of a regulator, which has no compensation for temperature will cause the clock to lose about {738} 1 second per day for each 3 degrees of increase in heat. A watch without a compensation balance will lose 6.11 seconds in 24 hours for each increase of 1° F. in heat.

«To Remedy Worn Pinions.»—Turn the leaves or rollers so that the worn places upon them will be toward the arbor or shaft and fasten them in that position. If they are “rolling pinions,” and they cannot be secured otherwise, a little soft solder should be used.

«Watchmakers’ Oil.»—I.—Put some lead shavings into neat’s foot oil, and allow to stand for some time, the longer the better. The lead neutralizes the acid, and the result is an oil that never corrodes or thickens.