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Part 431

Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas, Recipes and Processes · Gardner Dexter Hiscox — chapter 431 of 563 · ~815 words · public domain

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SPONGE-TRICK, BURNING: See Pyrotechnics.

SPOT ERADICATORS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods and Soaps.

SPOT GILDING: See Plating.

SPRAY SOLUTION: See Balsams.

SPEARMINT CORDIAL: See Wines and Liquors.

SPRAIN WASHES: See Veterinary Formulas.

SPRING CLEANING: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

SPRING HARDENING: See Steel.

SPRINGS OF WATCHES: See Watchmakers’ Formulas.

SPRUCE BEER: See Beverages.

STAIN REMOVERS: See Cleaning Preparations and Methods.

STAINS: See Paints, Varnishes and Wood Stains.

STAINS FOR LACQUERS: See Lacquers.

«Stamping»

(See also Dyes.)

«Stamping Colors for Use with Rubber Stamps.»—Blue: 0.3 parts of water-blue 1 B, 1.5 parts of dextrin, 1.5 parts of distilled water. Dissolve the aniline dye and the dextrin in the distilled water, over a water bath, and add 7 parts of refined glycerine, 28° Bé.

Other colors may be made according to the same formula, substituting the following quantities of dyes for the water-blue: Methyl violet 3 B, 0.02 parts; diamond fuchsine I, 0.02 parts; aniline green D, 0.04 parts; vesuvine B, 0.05 parts; phenol black, 0.03 parts. Oleaginous colors are mostly used for metallic stamps, but glycerine colors can be used in case of necessity.

«Oleaginous Stamping Colors.»—Mix 0.8 parts of indigo, ground fine with 2.5 parts of linseed-oil varnish, and 0.5 parts of olein. Add 2 parts of castor oil and 5 parts of linseed oil. For other colors according to the same formula, use the following quantities: Cinnabar, 2 1⁠/⁠2 parts; verdigris, 2 1⁠/⁠2 parts; lampblack, 1.2 parts; oil-soluble aniline blue A, 0.35 parts; oil-soluble aniline scarlet B, 0.3 parts; aniline yellow (oil-soluble), 0.45 parts; oil-soluble aniline black L, 0.6 parts.

«Stamping Liquids and Powders.»—Dissolve 1 drachm each of rosin and copal {680} in 4 fluidounces of benzine and with a little of this liquid triturate 1⁠/⁠2 drachm of Prussian blue and finally mix thoroughly with the remainder.

Ultramarine, to which has been added a small proportion of powdered rosin, is generally used for stamping embroidery patterns on white goods. The powder is dusted through the perforated pattern, which is then covered with a paper and a hot iron passed over it to melt the rosin and cause the powder to adhere to the cloth. The following are said to be excellent powders:

I.—White.—One part each of rosin, copal, damar, mastic, sandarac, borax, and bronze powder, and 2 parts white lead.

II.—Black.—Equal parts of rosin, damar, copal, sandarac, Prussian blue, ivory black, and bronze powder.

III.—Blue.—Equal parts of rosin, damar, copal, sandarac, Prussian blue, ultramarine, and bronze powder.

In all these powders the gums are first to be thoroughly triturated and mixed by passing through a sieve, and the other ingredients carefully added. Other colors may be made by using chrome yellow, burnt or raw sienna, raw or burnt umber, Vandyke brown, etc. For stamping fabrics liable to be injured by heat, the stamping is done by moistening a suitable powder with alcohol and using it like a stencil ink.

«Stamping Powder for Embroideries.»—“Stamping powders” used for outlining embroidery patterns are made by mixing a little finely powdered rosin with a suitable pigment. After dusting the powder through the perforated pattern it is fixed on the fabric by laying over it a piece of paper and then passing a hot iron carefully over the paper. By this means the rosin is melted and the mixture adheres. When white goods are to be “stamped,” ultramarine is commonly used as the pigment; for dark goods, zinc white may be substituted. Especial care should be taken to avoid lead compounds and other poisonous pigments, as they may do mischief by dusting off. On velvets or other materials likely to be injured by heat, stamping is said to be done by moistening a suitable powder with alcohol and using it as stencil paint. A small addition of rosinous matter would seem required here also.

«Starch»

«Black Starch.»—Add to the starch a certain amount of logwood extract before the starch mixture is boiled. The quantity varies according to the depth of the black and the amount of starch. A small quantity of potassium bichromate dissolved in hot water is used to bring out the proper shade of black. In place of bichromate, black iron liquor may be used. This comes ready prepared.

«Starch Gloss.»—I.—Melt 2 1⁠/⁠2 pounds of the best paraffine wax over a slow fire. When liquefied remove from the fire to stir in 100 drops of oil of citronella. Place several new pie tins on a level table, coat them slightly with sweet oil, and pour about 6 tablespoonfuls of the melted paraffine wax into each tin. The pan may be floated in water sufficiently to permit the mixture to be cut or stamped out with a tin cutter into small cakes about the size of a peppermint lozenge. Two of these cakes added to each pint of starch will cause the smoothing iron to impart the finest possible finish to muslin or linen, besides perfuming the clothes.

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