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Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas, Recipes and Processes · Gardner Dexter Hiscox — chapter 424 of 563 · ~576 words · public domain

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In hard soldering with borax, direct, several obstacles are encountered that make the process somewhat difficult. In {663} the first place the salt forms great bubbles in contact with the soldering iron, and easily scales away from the surface of the parts to be soldered. Besides this, the parts must be carefully cleaned each time prior to applying the salt. All these difficulties vanish if instead of borax we use its component parts, boric acid and sodium carbonate. The heat of the soldering iron acting on these causes them to combine in such a way as to produce an excellent flux, free from the difficulties mentioned.

«Composition of Various Hard Solders.»—Yellow solders for brass, bronze, copper, and iron:

I.—Sheet-brass chips, 5 parts, and zinc, 3 to 5 parts, easily fusible.

II.—Sheet brass chips, 3 parts, and zinc, 1 part; refractory.

III.—Sheet-brass chips, 7 parts, and zinc, 1 part; very refractory and firm.

Semi-white solders, containing tin and consequently harder:

I.—Sheet brass, 12 parts; zinc, 4 to 7 parts, and tin, 1 part.

II.—Copper, 16 parts; zinc, 16 parts, and tin, 1 part.

III.—Yellow solder, 20 to 30 parts, and tin, 1 part.

White solders:

I.—Sheet brass, 20 parts; zinc, 1 part, and tin, 4 parts.

II.—Copper, 3 parts; zinc, 1 part, and tin, 1 part.

«To Hard-Solder Parts Formerly Soldered with Tin Solder.»—To repair gold or silver articles which have been spoiled with tin solder proceed as follows: Heating the object carefully by means of a small spirit lamp, brush the tin off as much as possible with a chalk brush; place the article in a diluted solution of hydrochloric acid for about 8 to 10 hours, as required. If much tin remains, perhaps 12 hours may be necessary. Next withdraw it, rinse off and dry; whereupon it is carefully annealed and finally put in a pickle of dilute sulphuric acid, to remove the annealing film. When the article has been dipped, it may be hard soldered again.

«SILVER SOLDERS.»

Silver solder is cast in the form of ingots, which are hammered or rolled into thin sheets. From these small chips or “links,” as they are called, are cut off. The melted solder can also be poured, when slightly cooled, into a dry iron mortar and pulverized while still warm. The solder can also be filed and the filings used for soldering.

Silver solders are used not only for soldering silver objects, but also for soldering metals of which great resistance is expected. A distinction must be drawn between silver solder consisting either of copper and silver alone, and silver solder to which tin has been added.

«Very Hard Silver Solder for Fine Silverware.»—

I.—Copper 1 part Silver 4 parts Hard silver solder.

II.—Copper 1 part Silver 20 parts Brass 9 parts

III.—Copper 2 parts Silver 28 parts Brass 10 parts Soft silver solder.

IV.—Silver 2 parts Brass 1 part

V.—Silver 3 parts Copper 2 parts Zinc 1 part

VI.—Silver 10 parts Brass 10 parts Tin 1 part

These solders are preferably to be employed for the completion of work begun with hard silver solders, defective parts alone being treated. For this purpose it is sometimes advisable to use copper-silver alloys mixed with zinc, as for example:

VII.—Silver 12 parts Copper 4 parts Zinc 1 part

VIII.—Silver 5 parts Brass 6 parts Zinc 2 parts

This last formula (VIII) is most commonly used for ordinary silverware.

«Silver Solders for Soldering Iron, Steel, Cast Iron, and Copper.»—

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