Snuff Brown.—Twenty-five parts white lead; 1 part burnt umber; 1 part Oxford ocher.
«GRAY TINTS:»
Ash Gray.—Thirty parts white lead; 2 parts ultramarine blue; 1 part burnt sienna.
Cold Gray.—Five hundred parts white lead; 6 parts lampblack; 1 part Antwerp blue.
Dove Color.—Twelve parts manganese; 5 parts steel filings; 3 parts whiting; 1 part oxide of cobalt.
Dove Gray.—Two hundred parts white lead; 5 parts ultramarine blue; 2 parts drop black.
French Gray.—One hundred and fifty parts white lead; 2 parts lampblack; 1 part orange chrome yellow; 1 part chrome red (American vermilion).
Lead Color.—Fifty parts white lead; 1 part lampblack (increase proportion of white lead for light tints).
Lustrous Gray.—Ten parts white lead; 1 part graphite (plumbago).
Olive Gray.—Two hundred parts white lead; 2 parts lampblack; 1 part medium chrome green.
Pure Gray.—One hundred parts white lead; 1 part drop black.
Pearl Gray.—One hundred parts white lead; 1 part ultramarine blue; 1 part drop black.
Silver Gray.—One hundred and fifty parts white lead; 2 parts lampblack; 3 parts Oxford ocher.
Warm Gray.—One hundred parts white lead; 3 parts drop black; 2 parts French ocher; 1 part light Venetian red.
NOTE.—For inside work and whenever desirable, the white lead may be replaced by zinc white or a mixture of the two white pigments may be used. Be it also remembered that pure colors, as a rule, will produce the cleanest tints and that fineness of grinding is an important factor. It will not be amiss to call attention to the fact that the excessive use of driers, especially of dark japans or liquid driers, with delicate tints is bad practice, and liable to ruin otherwise good effects in tints or delicate solid colors.
«COLOR TESTING.»
Expense and trouble deter many a painter from having a color examined, {560} although such an examination is often very necessary. For the practical man it is less important to know what percentage of foreign matter a paint contains, but whether substances are contained therein, which may act injuriously in some way or other.
If a pigment is to be tested for arsenic, pour purified hydrochloric acid into a test tube or a U-shaped glass vessel which withstands heat, add a little of the pigment or the colored fabric, wall paper, etc. (of pigment take only enough to strongly color the hydrochloric acid simply in the first moment), and finally a small quantity of stannous chloride. Now heat the test tube with its contents moderately over a common spirit lamp. If the liquid or mass has assumed a brown or brownish color after being heated, arsenic is present in the pigment or fabric, etc.
An effective but simple test for the durability of a color is to paint strips of thick paper and nail them on the wall in the strongest light possible. A strip of paper should then be nailed over one-half of the samples of color so as to protect them from the light. On removing this the difference in shade between the exposed and unexposed portions will be very apparent. Some colors, such as the vermilionettes, will show a marked difference after even a few weeks.
«Testing Body Colors for Gritty Admixtures.»—The fineness of the powdered pigment is not a guarantee of the absence of gritty admixtures. The latter differ from the pigment proper in their specific gravity. If consisting of metallic oxides or metallic sulphides the sandy admixtures are lighter than the pigments and rise to the surface upon a systematic shaking of the sample. In the case of other pigments, e. g., aluminas and iron varnish colors, they collect at the bottom. For carrying out the test, a smoothly bored metallic tube about 1/2 to 3/4 inch in diameter and 6 to 7 inches long is used. Both ends are closed with screw caps and at one side of the tube some holes about 1/6 of an inch in diameter are bored, closed by pieces of a rubber hose pushed on. The tube is filled with the pigment powder, screwed up and feebly shaken for some time in a vertical position (the length of time varying according to the fineness of the powder). Samples may now be taken from all parts of the tube. Perhaps glass tubes would be preferable, but lateral apertures cannot be so readily made. After the necessary samples have been collected in this manner, they must be prepared with a standard sample, which is accomplished either by feeling the powder between the fingers or by inspecting it under a microscope, or else by means of the scratching test, which last named is the usual way. The requisites for these scratch tests consist of two soft, well-polished glass plates (2 1/2 x 2 1/4 inches) which are fixed by means of cement in two stronger plates of hard wood suitably hollowed out. The surface of the glass must project about 1/2 inch over the wooden frame. If a sample of the pigment powder is placed on such a glass plate, another plate is laid on top and both are rubbed slowly together; this motion will retain a soft, velvety character in case the pigment is free from gritty admixtures; if otherwise, the glass is injured and a corresponding sound becomes audible. Next the powder is removed from the plate, rubbing the latter with a soft rag, and examining the surface with a microscope. From the nature of the scratches on the plate the kind of gritty ingredients can be readily determined. The human finger is sufficiently sensitive to detect the presence of gritty substances, yet it is not capable of distinguishing whether they consist of imperfectly reduced or badly sifted grains of pigment or real gritty admixtures.
«To Determine the Covering Power of Pigments.»—To determine the covering power of white lead, or any other pigment, take equal quantities of several varieties of white lead and mix them with a darker pigment, black, blue, etc., the latter also in equal proportions. The white lead which retains the lightest color is naturally the most opaque. In a similar manner, on the other hand, the mixing power of the dark pigments can be ascertained. If experiments are made with a variety of white lead or zinc white, by the admixture of dark pigments, the color which tints the white lead or zinc white most, also possesses the greatest covering or mixing power.
«To Detect the Presence of Aniline in a Pigment.»—Lay a little of the color upon letter paper and pour a drop of spirit on it. If it is mixed with aniline the paper is colored right through thereby, while a pure pigment does not alter the shade of the paper and will never penetrate it.
«Vehicle for Oil Colors.»—Petroleum, 20 to 30 pounds; tallow, 3 to 5 pounds; cotton-seed oil, 5 to 7 pounds; colophony, 5 to 7 pounds. The pigments {561} having been ground up with this mixture, the mixed paint can be made still better by adding to it about a sixth of its weight of the following mixture: Vegetable oil, 8 to 20 pounds; saponified rosin, 6 to 16 pounds; turpentine, 4 to 30 ounces.
«Frankfort Black.»—Frankfort black, also known as German black, is a name applied to a superior grade of lampblack. In some districts of Germany it is said to be made by calcining wine lees and tartar. The material is heated in large cylindrical vessels having a vent in the cover for the escape of smoke and vapors that are evolved during the process. When no more smoke is observed, the operation is finished. The residuum in the vessels is then washed several times in boiling water to extract the salts contained therein and finally is reduced to the proper degree of fineness by grinding on a porphyry.
«Paris Green.»—Emerald or Paris green is rather permanent to light, but must not be mixed with pigments containing sulphur, because of the tendency to blacken when so mixed. It will not resist acids, ammonia, and caustics.
PIGMENT PAPER: See Photography.
«PILE OINTMENTS.»
I.—“Extract” witch-hazel 2 fluidounces Lanum 2 ounces Petrolatum 6 ounces Glycerine 4 fluidounces Tannic acid 1 drachm Powdered opium 1 drachm
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