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Part 330

Henley's Twentieth Century Formulas, Recipes and Processes · Gardner Dexter Hiscox — chapter 330 of 563 · ~926 words · public domain

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I.—Oil of bay leaves 3 drachms Oil of orange peel 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Tincture of orange peel 2 ounces Magnesium carbonate 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Alcohol 4 pints Water 4 pints

Triturate the oils with the magnesium carbonate, gradually adding the other ingredients previously mixed, and filter.

The tincture of orange peel is used chiefly as a coloring for the mixture.

Oil of bay leaves as found in the market varies in quality. The most costly will presumably be found the best, and its use will not make the product expensive. It can be made from the best oil and deodorized alcohol and still sold at a moderate price with a good profit.

Especial care should be taken to use only perfectly fresh oil of orange peel. As is well known, this oil deteriorates rapidly on exposure to the air, acquiring an odor similar to that of turpentine. The oil should be kept in bottles of such size that when opened the contents can be all used in a short time. {514}

II.—Bay oil, 15 parts; sweet orange oil, 1 part; pimento oil, 1 part; spirit of wine, 1,000 parts; water, 750 parts; soap spirit or quillaia bark, ad libitum.

III.—Bay oil, 12.5 parts; sweet orange oil, 0.5 part; pimento oil, 0.5 part; spirit of wine, 200 parts; water, 2,800 parts; Jamaica rum essence, 75 parts; soap powder, 20 parts; quillaia extract, 5 parts; borax, 10 parts; use sugar color.

«Colognes.»—In making cologne water, the alcohol used should be that obtained from the distillation of wine, provided a first-class article is desired. It is possible, of course, to make a good cologne with very highly rectified and deodorized corn or potato spirits, but the product never equals that made from wine spirits. Possibly the reason for this lies in the fact that the latter always contains a varying amount of oenanthic ether.

I.—Oil of bergamot 10 parts Oil of neroli 15 parts Oil of citron 5 parts Oil of cedrat 5 parts Oil of rosemary 1 part Tincture of ambergris 5 parts Tincture of benzoin 5 parts Alcohol 1,000 parts

II.—The following is stated to be the “original” formula:

Oil of bergamot 96 parts Oil of citron 96 parts Oil of cedrat 96 parts Oil of rosemary 48 parts Oil of neroli 48 parts Oil of lavender 48 parts Oil of cavella 24 parts Absolute alcohol 1,000 parts Spirit of rosemary 25,000 parts

III.—Alcohol, 90 per cent 5,000 parts Bergamot oil 220 parts Lemon oil 75 parts Neroli oil 20 parts Rosemary oil 5 parts Lavender oil French 5 parts

The oils are well dissolved in spirit and left alone for a few days with frequent shaking. Next add about 40 parts of acetic acid and filter after a while.

IV.—Alcohol, 90 per cent 5,000 parts Lavender oil, French 35 parts Lemon oil 30 parts Portugallo oil 30 parts Neroli oil 15 parts Bergamot oil 15 parts Petit grain oil 4 parts Rosemary oil 4 parts Orange water 700 parts

«Cologne Spirits or Deodorized Alcohol.»—This is used in all toilet preparations and perfumes. It is made thus:

Alcohol, 95 per cent 1 gallon Powdered unslaked lime 4 drachms Powdered alum 2 drachms Spirit of nitrous ether 1 drachm

Mix the lime and alum, and add them to the alcohol, shaking the mixture well together; then add the sweet spirit of niter and set aside for 7 days, shaking occasionally; finally filter.

«Florida Waters.»—

Oil of bergamot 3 fluidounces Oil of lavender 1 fluidounce Oil of cloves 1 1⁠/⁠4 fluidrachms Oil of cinnamon 2 1⁠/⁠2 fluidrachms Oil of neroli 1⁠/⁠2 fluidrachm Oil of lemon 1 fluidounce Essence of jasmine 6 fluidounces Essence of musk 2 fluidounces Rose water 1 pint Alcohol 8 pints

Mix, and if cloudy, filter through magnesium carbonate.

«Lavender Water.»—This, the most famous of all the perfumed waters, was originally a distillate from a mixture of spirit and lavender flowers. This was the perfume. Then came a compound water, or “palsy water,” which was intended strictly for use as a medicine, but sometimes containing ambergris and musk, as well as red sanders wood. Only the odor of the old compound remains to us as a perfume, and this is the odor which all perfume compounders endeavor to hit. The most important precaution in making lavender water is to use well-matured oil of lavender. Some who take pride in this perfume use no oil which is less than 5 years old, and which has had 1 ounce of rectified spirit added to each pound of oil before being set aside to mature. After mixing, the perfume should stand for at least a month before filtering through gray filtering paper. This may be taken as a general instruction:

I.—Oil of lavender 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Oil of bergamot 4 drachms Essence ambergris 4 drachms Proof spirit 3 pints

{515}

II.—English oil of lavender 1 ounce Oil of bergamot 1 1⁠/⁠2 drachms Essence of musk (No. 2) 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Essence of ambergris 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Proof spirit 2 pints

III.—English oil of lavender 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Oil of bergamot 2 drachms Essence of ambergris 1 drachm Essence of musk (No. 1) 3 drachms Oil of angelica 2 minims Attar of rose 6 minims Proof spirit 1 pint

IV.—Oil of lavender 4 ounces Grain musk 15 grains Oil of bergamot 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Attar of rose 1 1⁠/⁠2 drachms Oil of neroli 1⁠/⁠2 drachm Spirit of nitrous ether 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces Triple rose water 12 ounces Proof spirit 5 pints

Allow to stand 5 weeks before filtering.

«LIQUID PERFUMES FOR THE HANDKERCHIEF, PERSON, ETC.:»

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