Part 183

Finally mix 1 part of a with 4 parts of b; expose the mixture to the air for a few days to develop from a greenish to a black color. Dilute for use, or else dry the thick compound to a powder.

If new liquor is used as the mordant, mix 1 part of this with 4 parts of water, and after working the fabric for 1 to 2 hours in the cold liquor, wring or squeeze it out and dry; before working it in the dye liquor, thoroughly wet the fabric by rinsing it in hot water at a spring boil; then cool by washing in the dye bath until the shade desired is attained, and again rinse and dry.

The red liquor or acetate of aluminum may be made by dissolving 13 ounces of alum in 69 ounces of water and mixing this with a solution made by dissolving 7 1⁠/⁠2 ounces of acetate of lime, also dissolved in 69 ounces of water. Stir well, allow it to settle, and filter or decanter {280} off the clear fluid for use, and use this mixture 2 1⁠/⁠2° Tw.

The fabric is first put into the stannate of soda mordant for a few minutes, then wrung out and put into the alum mordant for about the same time; then it is again wrung out and entered in the dye bath at 120° F. and dyed to shade desired, and afterwards rinsed in cold water and dried.

The dye bath is made of 1⁠/⁠4 ounce of rose bengal per gallon of water. If fast pink is the dye used, the mordant used would be Turkey red oil and red liquor. Use 8 ounces of Turkey red oil per gallon of water. Put the fabric into this, then wring out the textile and work in red liquor of 7° Tw. for about 2 hours, then wring out and dye in a separate bath made up of eosine, or fast pink, in water in which a little alum has been dissolved.

«To Dye Woolen Yarns, etc., Various Shades of Magenta.»—To prepare the dye bath dissolve 1 pound of roseine in 15 gallons of water. For a concentrated solution use only 10 gallons of water, while if a very much concentrated color is needed, dissolve the dye in methylated spirit of wine, and dilute this spirituous tincture with an equal quantity of water.

No mordant is required in using this color in dyeing woolen goods. The dyeing operation consists simply in putting the goods into the dye bath at 190° F. and working them therein until the desired shade is obtained, then rinsing in cold water and drying.

If the water used in preparing the dye is at all alkaline, make use of the acid roseine dissolved in water in which a little sulphuric acid has been mixed, and work, gradually raising to the boiling point, and keep up the temperature for 30 minutes, or according to the shade desired. Put about 20 per cent sulphate of soda into the dye bath.

«Maroon Dye for Woolens.»—To prepare the dye bath, dissolve about 1 pound of maroon dye in boiling water, with or without the addition of methylated spirit of wine. For dark shades dissolve in boiling water, only slightly acidulated with hydrochloric acid, and filter before use. No mordant is required with this dye when dyeing wool, but for the bright shade a little curd soap may be dissolved in the dye bath before proceeding to dye the wool, while for the dark shade it is best to put in a little acetate of soda. To use the dye, first dye in a weak bath and gradually strengthen it until the desired shade is obtained, at the same time gradually increasing the temperature until just below the boiling point.

«To Dye Woolens with Blue de Lyons.»—Dissolve 8 ounces of blue dye in 1 gallon of methylated spirit, which has been slightly soured with sulphuric acid, and boil the solution over a water bath until it is perfectly clear. To prepare the dye bath, add more or less of the spirituous tincture to a 10- or 15-gallon dye bath of water, which has been slightly soured with sulphuric acid.

«Rich Orange on Woolen.»—Dissolve 1 pound of phosphine in 15 gallons of boiling water, and stir the fluid until the acid has dissolved. No mordant is required to dye wool. First work the goods about in a weak solution, and finally in one of full strength, to which a little acetate of soda has been added. Keep up the temperature to just below the boiling point while working the goods in the dye bath.

«DYEING SILK OR COTTON FABRICS WITH ANILINE DYES:»

«Aniline Blue on Cotton.»—Prepare a dye bath by dissolving 1 pound of aniline blue (soluble in spirit) in 10 gallons of water, and set it aside to settle. Meanwhile prepare a mordant while boiling 35 ounces of sumac (or 5 1⁠/⁠2 ounces tannic acid in 30 gallons of water) and then dissolve therein 17 ounces of curd soap. Boil up and filter. Put the cotton goods in the hot liquid and let them remain therein for 12 hours. Then wring them out and make up a dye bath of 2 1⁠/⁠2° Tw. with red liquor. Add dye color according to the shade desired. Put in the goods and work them until the color is correct, keeping the temperature at the boiling point.

«To Dye Silk a Delicate Greenish Yellow.»—Dissolve 2 ounces of citronine in 1 gallon of methylated spirit and keep the solution hot over a water bath until perfectly clear.

To prepare silk fabrics, wash them in a weak soap liquor that has been just sweetened (i. e., its alkalinity turned to a slight sourness) with a little sulphuric acid. Work the goods until dyed to shade, and then rinse them in cold water that has been slightly acidulated with acetic, tartaric, or citric acid.

«To Dye Cotton Dark Brown.»—Prepare a mordant bath of 10 pounds of catechu, 2 pounds of logwood extract, and 1⁠/⁠4 pound magenta (roseine), and bring to a boil; work the goods therein for 3 hours at that temperature; then put {281} into a fresh dye bath made up of 3 pounds of bichromate of potash and 2 pounds of sal soda, and dye to shade. These proportions are for a dye bath to dye 100 pounds of cotton goods at a time.

«To Dye Silk Peacock Blue.»—Make up a dye bath by putting 1 pint of sulphuric acid at 170° Tw., and 10 ounces of methylin blue crystal dye liquor of 120° to 160° Tw., with a dye bath that will hold 80 pounds of goods. Put in the silk at 130° F., and raise to 140° F., and work up to shade required.

«To Dye Felt Goods.»—Owing to this material being composed of animal and vegetable fiber it is not an easy matter always to produce evenness of shade. The best process to insure success is to steep well the felt in an acid bath of from 6° to 12° Bé., and then wash away all traces of acid. Some dyers make the fulling stock the medium of conveying the dye, while others partially dye before fulling, or else dye after that process.

The fulling stock for 72 ounces of beaver consists of a mixture of

Black lead or plumbago 16 ounces Venetian red 48 ounces Indigo extract (fluid) 5 ounces

Ordinary Drab.—

Common plumbago 12 ounces Best plumbago 12 ounces Archil extract (fluid) 15 ounces Indigo extract 10 ounces

Mix into fluid paste with water and add sulphuric acid at 30° Tw. For the dye liquor make a boiling-hot solution of the aniline dye and allow it to cool; then put into an earthenware vessel holding water and heat to 83° F., and add sufficient dye liquor to give the quantity of felt the desired shade. First moisten well the felted matter (or the hair, if dyed before felting) with water, and then work it about in the above dye bath at 140° F. To deepen the shade, add more dye liquor, lifting out the material to be dyed before adding the fresh dye liquor, so that it can be well stirred up and thoroughly mixed with the exhausted bath.

«Brown Shades.»—Bismarck brown will give good results, particularly if the dyed goods are afterwards steeped or passed through a weak solution (pale straw color) of bichromate of potash. This will give a substantial look to the color. Any of the aniline colors suitable for cotton or wool, or those suited for mixed cotton and wool goods may be used.

«Blue.»—Use either China blue, dense ferry blue, or serge blue, first making the material acid before dyeing.

«Green.»—Use brilliant green and have the material neutral, i. e., neither acid nor alkali; or else steep in a bath of sumac before dyeing.

«Plum Color.»—Use maroon (neutral or acid) and work in an acid bath or else sumac.

«Black.»—Use negrosin in an acid bath, or else mordant in two salts and dye slightly acid.