Part 136

II.—Coriander seed 1⁠/⁠4 pound Turmeric 1⁠/⁠4 pound Cinnamon seed 2 ounces Cayenne 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Mustard 1 ounce Ground ginger 1 ounce Allspice 1⁠/⁠2 ounce Fenugreek seed 2 ounces

«TABLE SAUCES:»

«Worcestershire Sauce.»—

Pimento 2 drachms Clove 1 drachm Black pepper 1 drachm Ginger 1 drachm Curry powder 1 ounce Capsicum 1 drachm Mustard 2 ounces Shallots, bruised 2 ounces Salt 2 ounces Brown sugar 8 ounces Tamarinds 4 ounces Sherry wine 1 pint Wine vinegar 2 pints

The spices must be freshly bruised. The ingredients are to simmer together with the vinegar for an hour, adding more of the vinegar as it is lost by evaporation; then add the wine, and if desired some caramel coloring. Set aside for a week, strain, and bottle.

«Table Sauce.»—Brown sugar, 16 parts; tamarinds, 16 parts; onions, 4 parts; powdered ginger, 4 parts; salt, 4 parts; garlic, 2 parts; cayenne, 2 parts; soy, 2 parts; ripe apples, 64 parts; mustard powder, 2 parts; curry powder, 1 part; vinegar, quantity sufficient. Pare and core the apples, boil them in sufficient vinegar with the tamarinds and raisins until soft, then pulp through a fine sieve. Pound the onions and garlic in a mortar and add the pulp to that of the apples. Then add the other ingredients and vinegar, 60 parts; heat to boiling, cool, and add sherry wine, 10 parts, and enough vinegar to make the sauce just pourable. If a sweet sauce is desired add sufficient treacle before the final boiling.

«Epicure’s Sauce.»—Eight ounces tamarinds; 12 ounces sultana raisins; 2 ounces garlic; 4 ounces eschalots; 4 ounces horse-radish root; 2 ounces black pepper; 1⁠/⁠2 ounce chili pods; 3 ounces raw Jamaica ginger; 1 1⁠/⁠2 pounds golden syrup; 1 pound burnt sugar (caramel); 1 ounce powdered cloves; 1 pint India soy; 1 gallon malt vinegar. Bruise roots, spices, etc., and boil in vinegar for 15 minutes, then strain. To the strained liquor add golden syrup, soy, and burnt sugar, then simmer for 10 minutes.

«Piccalilli Sauce.»—One drachm chili pods; 1 1⁠/⁠2 ounces black peppercorns; 1⁠/⁠2 ounce pimento; 3⁠/⁠4 ounce garlic; 1⁠/⁠2 gallon malt vinegar. Bruise spices and garlic, boil in the vinegar for 10 minutes, and strain.

One ounce ground Jamaica ginger; 1 ounce turmeric; 2 ounces flower of mustard; 2 ounces powdered natal arrowroot; 8 ounces strong acetic acid. Rub powders in a mortar with acetic acid and add to above, then boil for 5 minutes, or until it thickens.

«FLAVORING SPICES.»

I.—Five ounces powdered cinnamon bark; 2 1⁠/⁠2 ounces powdered cloves; 2 1⁠/⁠2 {214} ounces powdered nutmegs; 1 1⁠/⁠4 ounces powdered caraway seeds; 1 1⁠/⁠4 ounces powdered coriander seeds; 1 ounce powdered Jamaica ginger; 1⁠/⁠2 ounce powdered allspice. Let all be dry and in fine powder. Mix and pass through a sieve.

II.—Pickling Spice.—Ten pounds small Jamaica ginger; 2 1⁠/⁠2 pounds black peppercorns; 1 1⁠/⁠2 pounds white peppercorns; 1 1⁠/⁠2 pounds allspice; 3⁠/⁠4 pound long pepper; 1 1⁠/⁠4 pounds mustard seed; 1⁠/⁠2 pound chili pods. Cut up ginger and long pepper into small pieces, and mix all the other ingredients intimately.

One ounce to each pint of boiling vinegar is sufficient, but it may be made stronger if desired hot.

«Essence of Savory Spices.»—Two and one-half ounces black peppercorns; 1 ounce pimento; 3⁠/⁠4 ounce nutmeg; 1⁠/⁠2 ounce mace; 1⁠/⁠2 ounce cloves; 1⁠/⁠4 ounce cinnamon bark; 1⁠/⁠4 ounce caraway seeds; 20 grains cayenne pepper; 15 ounces spirit of wine; 5 ounces distilled water. Bruise all the spices and having mixed spirit and water, digest in mixture 14 days, shaking frequently, then filter.

«MUSTARD:»

«The Prepared Mustards of Commerce.»—The mustard, i. e., the flower or powdered seed, used in preparing the different condiments, is derived from three varieties of Brassica (Cruciferæ)—Brassica alba L., Brassica nigra, and Brassica juncea. The first yields the “white” seed of commerce, which produces a mild mustard; the second the “black” seed, yielding the more pungent powder; and the latter a very pungent and oily mustard, much employed by Russians. The pungency of the condiment is also affected by the method of preparing the paste, excessive heat destroying the sharpness completely. The pungency is further controlled and tempered, in the cold processes, by the addition of wheat or rye flour, which also has the advantage of serving as a binder of the mustard. The mustard flour is prepared by first decorticating the seed, then grinding to a fine powder, the expression of the fixed oil from which completes the process. This oil, unlike the volatile, is of a mild, pleasant taste, and of a greenish color, which, it is said, makes it valuable in the sophistication and imitation of “olive” oils, refined, cottonseed, or peanut oil being thus converted into huile vierge de Lucca, Florence, or some other noted brand of olive oil. It is also extensively used for illuminating purposes, especially in southern Russia.

The flavors, other than that of the mustard itself, of the various preparations are imparted by the judicious use of spices—cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, pimento, etc.—aromatic herbs, such as thyme, sage, chervil, parsley, mint, marjoram, tarragon, etc., and finally chives, onions, shallots, leeks, garlic, etc.

In preparing the mustards on a large scale, the mustard flower and wheat or rye flour are mixed and ground to a smooth paste with vinegar, must (unfermented grape juice), wine, or whatever is used in the preparation, a mill similar to a drug or paint mill being used for the purpose. This dough immediately becomes spongy, and in this condition, technically called “cake,” is used as the basis of the various mustards of commerce.

«Mustard Cakes.»—In the mixture, the amount of flour used depends on the pungency of the mustard flower, and the flavor desired to be imparted to the finished product. The cakes are broadly divided into the yellow and the brown. A general formula for the yellow cake is:

Yellow mustard, from 20 to 30 per cent; salt, from 1 to 3 per cent; spices, from 1⁠/⁠4 to 1⁠/⁠2 of 1 per cent; wheat flour, from 8 to 12 per cent.

Vinegar, must, or wine, complete the mixture.

The brown cake is made with black mustard, and contains about the following proportions:

Black mustard, from 20 to 30 per cent; salt, from 1 to 3 per cent; spices, from 1⁠/⁠4 to 1⁠/⁠2 of 1 per cent; wheat or rye flour, from 10 to 15 per cent.

The variations are so wide, however, that it is impossible to give exact proportions. In the manufacture of table mustards, in fact, as in every other kind of manufacture, excellence is attained only by practice and the exercise of sound judgment and taste by the manufacturer.

«Moutarde des Jesuittes.»—Twelve sardels and 280 capers are crushed into a paste and stirred into 3 pints of boiling wine vinegar. Add 4 ounces of brown cake and 8 ounces of yellow cake and mix well.

«Kirschner Wine Mustard.»—Reduce 30 quarts of freshly expressed grape juice to half that quantity, by boiling over a moderate fire, on a water bath. Dissolve in the boiling liquid 5 pounds of sugar, and pour the syrup through a colander containing 2 or 3 large horse-radishes cut {215} into very thin slices and laid on a coarse towel spread over the bottom and sides of the colander. To the colate add the following, all in a state of fine powder:

Cardamom seeds 2 1⁠/⁠2 drachms Nutmeg 2 1⁠/⁠2 drachms Cloves 4 1⁠/⁠2 drachms Cinnamon 1 ounce Ginger 1 ounce Brown mustard cake 6 pounds Yellow mustard cake 9 pounds

Grind all together to a perfectly smooth paste, and strain several times through muslin.