Part 12

Make to a paste with a boiled oil.

IV.—Make a paste of white lead and asbestos.

V.—Make a paste of litharge and glycerine. Red lead may be added. This also does for stone.

VI.—Make a paste of boiled oil of equal parts of white lead, pipe clay, and black oxide of manganese.

VII.—Make iron filings to a paste with water glass.

VIII.—Sal ammoniac 4 ounces Sulphur 2 ounces Iron filings 32 ounces

Make as much as is to be used at once to a paste with a little water. This remark applies to both the following dry recipes:

IX.—Iron filings 160 ounces Lime 80 ounces Red lead 16 ounces Alum 8 ounces Sal ammoniac 2 ounces

X.—Clay 10 ounces Iron filings 4 ounces Salt 1 ounce Borax 1 ounce Black oxide of manganese 2 ounces

XI.—Mix:

Iron filings 180 ounces Lime 45 ounces Salt 8 ounces

XII.—Mix:

Iron filings 140 ounces Hydraulic lime 20 ounces Sand 25 ounces Sal ammoniac 3 ounces

Either of these last two mixtures is made into a paste with strong vinegar just before use.

XIII.—Mix equal weights of zinc oxide and black oxide of manganese into a paste with water glass.

XIV.—Copal varnish, 15 parts; hydrated lime, 10 parts; glue de nerfs (of sinews), 5 parts; fat drying oil, 5 parts; {25} powdered turpentine, 3 parts; essence of turpentine, 2 parts. Dissolve the glue de nerfs on the water bath, add all the other substances, and triturate intimately.

XV.—Copal varnish, 15 parts; powdered turpentine, 3 parts; essence of turpentine, 2 parts; powdered fish glue, 3 parts; iron filings, 3 parts; ocher, 10 parts.

XVI.—To make a cement for cast iron, take 16 ounces cast-iron borings; 2 ounces sal ammoniac, and 1 ounce sulphur. Mix well and keep dry. When ready to use take 1 part of this powder to 20 parts of cast-iron borings and mix thoroughly into a stiff paste, adding a little water.

XVII.—Litharge 2 parts Boiled linseed oil 2 parts White lead 1 part Copal 1 part

Heat together until of a uniform consistence and apply warm.

XVIII.—A cement for iron which is said to be perfectly waterproof and fireproof is made by working up a mixture of equal weights of red lead and litharge with glycerine till the mass is perfectly homogeneous and has the consistency of a glazier’s putty. This cement is said to answer well, even for very large iron vessels, and to be unsurpassable for stopping up cracks in large iron pans of steam pipes.

«Cement for Metal, Glass, and Porcelain.»—A soft alloy is prepared by mixing from 30 to 36 parts of copper precipitated in the form of a fine brown powder, with sulphuric acid of a specific gravity of 1.85 in a cast-iron or porcelain mortar and incorporating by stirring with 75 parts of mercury, the acid being afterwards removed by washing with water. In from 10 to 14 hours the amalgam becomes harder than tin, but when heated to 692° F., it can be kneaded like wax. In this condition it is applied to the surface to be cemented, and will fix them firmly together on cooling.

Dissolve 1 drachm of gum mastic in 3 drachms of spirits of wine. In a separate vessel containing water soak 3 drachms of isinglass. When thoroughly soaked take it out of the water and put it into 5 drachms of spirits of wine. Take a piece of gum ammoniacum the size of a large pea and grind it up finely with a little spirits of wine and isinglass until it has dissolved. Then mix the whole together with sufficient heat. It will be found most convenient to place the vessel on a hot-water bath. Keep this cement in a bottle closely stoppered, and when it is to be used, place it in hot water until dissolved.

«Cements for Fastening Porcelain to Metal.»—I.—Mix equal parts of alcohol (95 per cent) and water, and make a paste by incorporating the liquid with 300 parts of finely pulverized chalk and 250 parts of starch.

II.—Mix finely powdered burned lime, 300 parts, with powdered starch, 250 parts, and moisten the mixture with a compound of equal parts of water and alcohol of 95 per cent until a paste results.

III.—Cement or plaster can be used if the surfaces are sufficiently large; cement is the better article when the object may be exposed to moisture or subjected to much pressure. A process which can be recommended consists in mingling equal weights of chalk, brickdust, clay, and Romain cement. These materials, pulverized and sifted are incorporated with linseed oil in the proportion of half a kilo of oil to 3 kilos of the mingled powder. The Romain or Romanic cement is so designated from the district in France where the calcareous stone from which it is prepared is found in considerable quantity. Although its adhesive qualities are unquestioned, there are undoubtedly American cements equally as good.

IV.—Acetate of lead, 46 1⁠/⁠2 parts by weight; alum, 46 1⁠/⁠2 parts by weight; gum arabic, 76 parts by weight; flour, 500 parts by weight; water, 2,000 parts by weight. Dissolve the acetate of lead and the alum in a little water; on the other hand dissolve the gum arabic in water by pouring, for instance, the 2 liters of boiling water on the gum arabic reduced to powder. When the gum has dissolved, add the flour, put all on the fire, and stir well with a piece of wood; then add the solution of acetate of lead and the alum; agitate well so as to prevent any lumps from forming; retire from the fire before allowing to boil. This glue is used cold, does not peel off, and is excellent to make wood, glass, cardboard, etc. adhere to metals.

«Cement for Leather and Iron.»—To face a cast-iron pulley with leather apply acetic acid to the face of the pulley with a brush, which will roughen it by rusting, and then when dry apply a cement made of 1 pound of fish glue and 1⁠/⁠2 pound of common glue, melted in a mixture of alcohol and water. The leather should then be placed on the pulley and dried under pressure. {26}