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Part 15

Acetaria: a Discourse of Sallets · John Evelyn — chapter 15 of 34 · ~1,385 words · public domain

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In Powder.

Being fresh gathered, cleans'd, &c. and cut in Pieces, stew them in Water and Salt; and being taken forth, dry them with a Cloth: Then putting them into an Earth-Glazed Pot, set them into the Oven after the Bread is drawn: Repeat this till they are perfectly dry; and reserve them in Papers to crumble into what Sauce you please. For the rest, see Pickle.

4. Mustard. Procure the best and weightiest Seed: cast it into Water two or three times, till no more of the Husk arise: Then taking out the sound (which will sink to the Bottom) rub it very dry in warm course Cloths, shewing it also a little to the Fire in a Dish or Pan. Then stamp it as small as to pass through a fine Tiffany Sieve: Then slice some Horse-Radish and lay it to soak in strong Vinegar, with a small Lump of hard Sugar (which some leave out) to temper the Flower with, being drained from the Radish, and so pot it all in a Glaz'd Mug, with an Onion, and keep it well stop'd with a Cork upon a Bladder, which is the more cleanly: But this Receit is improv'd, if instead of Vinegar, Water only, or the Broth of powder'd Beef be made use of. And to some of this Mustard adding Verjuice, Sugar, Claret-Wine, and Juice of Limon, you have an excellent Sauce to any sort of Flesh or Fish.

Note, that a Pint of good Seed is enough to make at one time, and to keep fresh a competent while. What part of it does not pass the Sarse, may be beaten again; and you may reserve the Flower in a well closed Glass, and make fresh Mustard when you please. See Acetaria, p. 38, 67.

Nasturtium. Vide Pickle.

Orange. See Limon in Pickle.

5. Parsnip. Take the large Roots, boil them, and strip the Skin: Then slit them long-ways into pretty thin Slices; Flower and fry them in fresh Butter till they look brown. The sauce is other sweet Butter melted. Some strow Sugar and Cinamon upon them. Thus you may accomodate other Roots.

There is made a Mash or Pomate of this Root, being boiled very tender with a little fresh Cream; and being heated again, put to it some Butter, a little Sugar and Juice of Limon; dish it upon Sippets; sometimes a few Corinths are added.

Peny-royal. See Pudding.

Pickles.

6. Pickl'd Artichoaks. See Acetaria, p. 5.

7. Ashen-keys. Gather them young, and boil them in three or four Waters to extract the Bitterness; and when they feel tender, prepare a Syrup of sharp White-Wine Vinegar, Sugar, and a little Water. Then boil them on a very quick Fire, and they will become of a green Colour, fit to be potted so soon as cold.

8. Asparagus. Break off the hard Ends, and put them in White-Wine Vinegar and Salt, well covered with it; and so let them remain for six Weeks: Then taking them out, boil the Liquor or Pickle, and scum it carefully. If need be, renew the Vinegar and Salt; and when 'tis cold, pot them up again. Thus may one keep them the whole Year.

9. Beans. Take such as are fresh, young, and approaching their full Growth. Put them into a strong Brine of White-Wine Vinegar and Salt able to bear an Egg. Cover them very close, and so will they be preserved twelve Months: But a Month before you use them, take out what Quantity you think sufficient for your spending a quarter of a Year (for so long the second Pickle will keep them sound) and boil them in a Skillet of fresh Water, till they begin to look green, as they soon will do. Then placing them one by one, (to drain upon a clean course Napkin) range them Row by Row in a Jarr, and cover them with Vinegar, and what Spice you please; some Weight being laid upon them to keep them under the Pickle. Thus you may preserve French-Beans, Harico's, &c. the whole Year about.

10. Broom-Buds and Pods. Make a strong Pickle, as above; stir it very well, till the Salt be quite dissolved, clearing off the Dregs and Scum. The next Day pour it from the Bottom; and having rubbed the Buds dry pot them up in a Pickle-Glass, which should be frequently shaken, till they sink under it, and keep it well stopt and covered.

Thus may you-pickle any other Buds. Or as follows:

11. Of Elder. Take the largest Buds, and boil them in a Skillet with Salt and Water, sufficient only to scald them; and so (being taken off the Fire) let them remain covered till Green; and then pot them with Vinegar and Salt, which has had one Boil up to cleanse it.

12. Collyflowers. Boil them till they fall in Pieces: Then with some of the Stalk, and worst of the Flower, boil it in a part of the Liquor till pretty strong: Then being taken off, strain it; and when settled, clear it from the Bottom. Then with Dill, Gross Pepper, a pretty Quantity of Salt, when cold, add as much Vinegar as will make it sharp, and pour all upon the Collyflower; and so as to keep them from touching one another; which is prevented by putting Paper close to them.

Cornelians are pickled like Olives.

13. Cowslips. Pick very clean; to each Pound of Flowers allow about one Pound of Loaf Sugar, and one Pint of White-Wine Vinegar, which boil to a Syrup, and cover it scalding-hot. Thus you may pickle Clove-gillyflowers, Elder, and other Flowers, which being eaten alone, make a very agreeable Salletine.

14. Cucumbers. Take the Gorkems, or smaller Cucumbers; put them into Rape-Vinegar, and boyl, and cover them so close, as none of the Vapour may issue forth; and also let them stand till the next day: Then boil them in fresh White-Wine Vinegar, with large Mace, Nutmeg, Ginger, white Pepper, and a little Salt, (according to discretion) straining the former Liquor from the Cucumbers; and so place them in a Jarr, or wide mouthed Glass, laying a litle Dill and Fennel between each Rank; and covering all with the fresh scalding-hot Pickle, keep all close, and repeat it daily, till you find them sufficiently green.

In the same sort Cucumbers of the largest size, being peel'd and cut into thin Slices, are very delicate.

Another.

Wiping them clean, put them in a very strong Brine of Water and Salt, to soak two or three Hours or longer, if you see Cause: Then range them in the Jarr or Barrellet with Herbs and Spice as usual; and cover them with hot Liquor made of two parts Beer-Vinegar, and one of White-Wine Vinegar: Let all be very well closed. A Fortnight after scald the Pickle again, and repeat it, as above: Thus they will keep longer, and from being so soon sharp, eat crimp and well tasted, tho' not altogether so green. You may add a Walnut-Leaf, Hysop, Costmary, &c. and as some do, strow on them a little Powder of Roch-Allom, which makes them firm and eatable within a Month or six Weeks after.

Mango of Cucumbers.

Take the biggest Cucumbers (and most of the Mango size) that look green: Open them on the Top or Side; and scooping out the Seeds, supply their Place with a small Clove of Garlick, or some Roccombo Seeds. Then put them into an Earthen Glazed Jarr, or wide-mouth'd Glass, with as much White-Wine Vinegar as will cover them. Boil them in the Vinegar with Pepper, Cloves, Mace, &c. and when off the Fire, as much Salt as will make a gentle Brine; and so pour all boyling-hot on the Cucumbers, covering them close till the next Day. Then put them with a little Dill, and Pickle into a large Skillet; and giving them a Boyl or two, return them into the Vessel again: And when all is cold, add a good Spoonful of the best Mustard, keeping it from the Air, and so have you an excellent Mango. When you have occasion to take any out, make use of a Spoon, and not your Fingers.

Elder. See Buds.

Flowers. See Cowslips, and for other Flowers.

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