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Part 14

Acetaria: a Discourse of Sallets · John Evelyn — chapter 14 of 34 · ~918 words · public domain

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----Rais'd of a grassy Turf The Table was, and Mossy Seats had round; And on the ample Meaths from Side to Side, All Autumn pil'd: Ah Innocence, Deserving Paradise!

Thus, the Hortulan Provision of the Golden Age fitted all Places, Times and Persons; and when Man is restor'd to that State again, it will be as it was in the Beginning.

But now after all (and for Close of all) Let none yet imagine, that whilst we justifie our present Subject through all the Topics of Panegyric, we would in Favour of the Sallet, drest with all its Pomp and Advantage turn Mankind to Grass again; which were ungratefully to neglect the Bounty of Heaven, as well as his Health and Comfort: But by these Noble Instances and Examples, to reproach the Luxury of the present Age; and by shewing the infinite Blessing and Effects of Temperance, and the Vertues accompanying it; with how little Nature, and a Civil Appetite may be happy, contented with moderate things, and within a little Compass, reserving the rest, to the nobler Parts of Life. And thus of old,

Hoc erat in votis, modus agri non ita magnus, &a._

He that was possess'd of a little Spot of Ground, and well=cultivated Garden, with other moderate Circumstances, had Hæredium. All that a modest Man could well desire. Then,

Happy the Man, who from Ambition freed, A little Garden, little Field does feed. The Field gives frugal Nature what's requird; The Garden what's luxuriously desir'd: The specious Evils of an anxious Life, He leaves to Fools to be their endless Strife.

O Fortunatos nimium bona si sua norint Horticulos!

FINIS

* * * * *

APPENDIX

Tho' it was far from our first Intention to charge this small Volume and Discourse concerning Crude Sallets, with any of the following Receipts: Yet having since received them from an Experienc'd Housewife; and that they may possibly be useful to correct, preserve and improve our Acetaria, we have allow'd them Place as an Appendant Variety upon Occasion: Nor account we it the least Dishonour to our former Treatise, that we kindly entertain'd them; since (besides divers Learned Physicians, and such as have ex professo written de Re Cibaria) we have the Examples of many other Noble and Illustrious Persons both among the Ancient and Modern.

1. Artichoak. Clear it of the Leaves and cut the Bottoms in pretty thin Slices or Quarters; then fry them in fresh Butter with some Parsley, till it is crisp, and the Slices tender; and so dish them with other fresh melted Butter.

How a Poiverade is made, and the Bottoms preserv'd all the Winter, See Acetaria. p. 5, 6.

Ashen-keys. See Pickle.

Asparagus. See Pickle.

Beets. \ Broom. | Buds. | See Pickle. Capers. /

Carrot. See Pudding.

Champignon. See Mushroom.

2. Chessnut. Roasted under the Embers, or dry fryed, till they shell, and quit their Husks, may be slit; the Juice of Orange squeezed on a Lump of hard Sugar dissolv'd; to which add some Claret Wine.

Collyflower. \ Cucumber. | Elder flowers. | See Pickle. Flowers. | Gilly-flowers. /

Herbs. See Pudding and Tart.

Limon. See Pickle.

3. Mushroom. Chuse the small, firm and white Buttons, growing upon sweet Pasture Grounds, neither under, or about any Trees: strip off the upper Skin, and pare away all the black spungy Bottom part; then slice them in quarters, and cast them in Water a while to cleanse: Then Boil them in fresh Water, and a little sweet Butter; (some boil them a quarter of an hour first) and then taking them out, dry them in a Cloth, pressing out the Water, and whilst hot, add the Butter; and then boiling a full Hour (to exhaust the Malignity) shift them in another clean Water, with Butter, as before till they become sufficiently tender. Then being taken out, pour upon them as much strong Mutton (or other) Broth as will cover them, with six Spoonfuls of White-Wine, twelve Cloves, as many Pepper-Corns, four small young Onions, half an Handful of Persly bound up with two or three Spriggs of Thyme, an Anchovy, Oysters raw, or pickl'd; a little Salt, sweet Butter; and so let them stew. See Acetar. p. 26.

Another.

Prepared, and cleans'd as above, and cast into Fountain-Water, to preserve them from growing black; Boil them in fresh Water and Salt; and whilst on the Fire, cast in the Mushrooms, letting them boil till they become tender: Then stew them leisurely between two Dishes (the Water being drained from them) in a third Part of White-Wine and Butter, a small Bundle of sweet Herbs at discretion. To these add Broth as before, with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, Anchovies (one is sufficient) Oysters, &c. a small Onion, with the green Stem chopt small; and lastly, some Mutton-Gravy, rubbing the Dish gently with a Clove of Garlick, or some Rocombo Seeds in its stead. Some beat the Yolk of a fresh Egg with Vinegar, and Butter, and a little Pepper.

In France some (more compendiously being peel'd and prepared) cast them into a Pipkin, where, with the Sweet Herbs, Spices, and an Onion they stew them in their own Juice, without any other Water or Liquor at all; and then taking out the Herbs and Onion, thicken it with a little Butter, and so eat them.

In Poiverade.

The large Mushrooms well cleansed, &c. being cut into quarters and strewed with Pepper and Salt, are broil'd on the Grid-iron, and eaten with fresh Butter.

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