Part 11

The Sprague’s Pipit may be slightly harder to see well. It prefers to stay on the ground where it is difficult to spot because of the grass. When flushed, it usually flies a short way and drops back into the grass. Unlike the Baird’s Sparrow, the pipit may be hardest to see when singing because it sings while on the wing (like a Horned Lark) and sometimes at amazingly high altitudes. At Longspur Pasture you will often hear its “swishing” song from overhead without being able to see the bird. Do not be discouraged by all of this. You may still get a good look at the Sprague’s Pipit. In spring and early summer it often perches on fence posts or sits around the muddy edges of the stock pond, where the grass does not obscure the view.

Still one more large refuge in the northwest sector is Upper Souris National Wildlife Refuge. Although generally not as productive as Lostwood or Des Lacs, it is a good spring-through-fall birding location. The starting point is Foxholm (northwest of Minot on Highway 52). From the center of town (Miller’s Bar) go 0.7 mile north on U.S. Highway 52 and turn right on Ward County Road #11 at the flying goose sign. Go 5.6 miles, turn right, and after 0.8 mile turn left to the headquarters.

The best habitat is marshland behind locked gates. By asking at the headquarters, you may be able to obtain a key. Besides passing through marshland, these roads thread brushy pastures and wooded areas.

Some of the species on the marshes include Pied-billed, Eared, Horned, Western, and Red-necked (uncommon) Grebes; American White Pelican; Double-crested Cormorant; Great Blue Heron; Black-crowned Night Heron; American Bittern; all of the ducks, geese, shorebirds, gulls, and terns normal to the sector; American Coot; Virginia Rail; Sora; all of the state’s swallows; Marsh Wren; Common Yellowthroat; Yellow-headed, Red-winged, and Brewer’s Blackbirds; and Song, Sharp-tailed (uncommon), and Le Conte’s (common) Sparrows.

In the brushy pastures and wooded areas, you may see Eastern Kingbird, Willow Flycatcher, Least Flycatcher, Eastern Pewee, Sedge Wren (tall-grass areas), Brown Thrasher, Gray Catbird, Cedar Waxwing, Yellow Warbler, Bobolink, Northern Oriole, and Song and Clay-colored Sparrows. These wooded areas are especially productive during migration for transient passerines.

f) Divide County

One of the better places is a large alkaline lake near Westby on the Montana-North Dakota line. To find it, start in the center of town (by the large grain elevator), and drive east on State Highway 5 for 2.3 miles before turning left (north) on a gravel road. Watch for Chestnut-collared Longspurs. After 2.0 miles you should be able to see the south end of the lake on the left. The main portion will be visible for the next few miles, and the whole distance should be driven.

This is the site of one of the few active California Gull colonies in North Dakota. Ring-billed Gulls also nest, so care should be exercised in identification. Most of the grebes, ducks, waders, and shorebirds common to the western half of the state can be found—often in good numbers. Sprague’s Pipits and Baird’s Sparrows should be watched for in grassy areas.

If you still need McCown’s Longspur, get back on State Highway 5 and head east to Crosby. Check the stubble fields adjacent to the highway for several miles on all sides of town.

NORTHEASTERN NORTH DAKOTA

Although the northeast comes last among the chapters, it certainly does not come last in bird-finding potential. In fact, it may offer the best birding in the state. All of the waterbirds and grasslands species that North Dakota is known for may be found in this quarter. In addition it offers some specialties of its own. Several eastern passerines which occur in the rest of the state only as migrants nest here. This is the only place where the Ruffed Grouse is found, and it is here that one is most likely to find those northern species which rarely visit the state in winter—Saw-whet, Hawk, Boreal, and Great Gray Owls; Gray Jay; Northern Raven; and Boreal Chickadee.

The northeast contains a great diversity of habitats. Grasslands and prairie-potholes are present in ample amounts. The region also contains agricultural areas, large lakes, sandhills, well-wooded river bottoms, and rolling hills covered with stands of aspen, birch, and oak and dotted with small lakes. Indeed, it is a pleasure to bird the relatively cool forests of the northeast after the badlands and the hot, dry prairies to the west.

a) McHenry County

The best birding location in North Dakota may be J. Clark Salyer II National Wildlife Refuge, nestled along the lower reaches of the Souris River. It is ideal in that most major habitat types are represented. Included in its 58,700 acres are vast marshlands; uplands-sandhills; wet, grassy meadows; mixed-grass prairie, and well-wooded bottomland. The habitats are so diverse that over 250 species of birds have been recorded, of which about 125 nest.

To reach the refuge, go north on State Highway 14 from Upham for 2.5 miles and turn right. The headquarters is 0.3 mile ahead. Check for the usual assortment of checklists, pamphlets, and maps, including one showing the two public automobile trails. More importantly, you may pick up a trail-guide for the 22-mile scenic tour, which takes off from the headquarters, winds through the refuge, and eventually ends back on Highway 14 south of Upham. It traverses most of the major habitats.

The scenic tour passes through some very extensive marshlands which harbor, in addition to all of the common waterfowl and shorebirds, Red-necked (uncommon), Horned, Eared, Western, and Pied-billed Grebes; American White Pelican; Double-crested Cormorant (There is a nesting colony on the southern portion of the refuge.); Great Blue Heron; Black-crowned Night Heron; American Bittern; Northern Harrier; Virginia and Yellow Rails; Sora; American Coot; Ring-billed and Franklin’s Gulls; Forster’s, Common, and Black Terns; Short-eared Owl; Tree, Bank, Rough-winged, Barn, and Cliff Swallows; Purple Martin; Marsh and Sedge Wrens; Common Yellowthroat; Yellow-headed and Red-winged Blackbirds; and Le Conte’s and Sharp-tailed Sparrows.

Adjacent to many of the marshlands are wet, grassy meadows, which harbor some of the species found in the marshes and a few of their own, such as Yellow Rail, Short-eared Owl, Willow Flycatcher, Sedge Wren (very common), and Savannah, Le Conte’s, Sharp-tailed, and Song Sparrows. The Yellow Rail is rare but has been turning up with increasing frequency in the past few years. Because of its accessibility, this refuge is one of the best places to look for it.

A unique habitat found along the scenic tour is the sandhills. These tall ridges of sand, now covered by grasses and shrubs, were once a beach of glacial Lake Souris during the last ice age, about 10,000 years ago. Some of the birds to be seen while walking the sandhills (or any other open areas of the refuge) include Red-tailed and Swainson’s Hawks, American Kestrel, Sharp-tailed Grouse (There is a photo blind near a dancing ground on the refuge. To use it check with refuge personnel.), Ring-necked Pheasant, Gray Partridge, Mourning Dove, Common Nighthawk, Common Flicker, Eastern and Western Kingbirds, Say’s Phoebe (rare), Black-billed Magpie, American Crow, Mountain Bluebird (Most common as a spring migrant, but a few nest in the aspens.), Loggerhead Shrike, Brewer’s Blackbird, Common Grackle, Brown-headed Cowbird, American Goldfinch, Rufous-sided Towhee, and Vesper, Lark, and Clay-colored Sparrows. Sandhill Cranes often pass overhead in migration.

One thing which distinguishes J. Clark Salyer from the other refuges to the west is the large amount of wooded area. Most of it is composed of American elm, box elder, and green ash in stands on the bottomlands along the Souris River. However, there are large mixed stands (mostly aspen) scattered across the uplands. These woodlands (especially those along the river) are natural migrant traps for transient passerines.

Some of the regular migrants are Olive-sided Flycatcher; Red-breasted Nuthatch; Brown Creeper; Hermit, Swainson’s, and Gray-cheeked Thrushes; Golden-crowned and Ruby-crowned Kinglets; Bohemian Waxwing; Black-and-white, Tennessee, Orange-crowned, Yellow-rumped, Bay-breasted, Blackpoll, Mourning, and Wilson’s Warblers; Ovenbird; Northern Waterthrush; Rusty Blackbird; Purple Finch; and Harris’, White-crowned, White-throated, Fox, and Lincoln’s Sparrows.

Several species nest in these wooded areas. Two of the more interesting are the Wood Duck and the Hooded Merganser. Both nest either in natural cavities in trees along the river or in boxes provided by the refuge personnel. The Wood Duck is fairly common in similar habitat over the whole eastern half of the state, but this is about the only area where the Hooded Merganser may be expected.

Other woodland nesting species include Red-tailed and Cooper’s Hawks; Mourning Dove; Black-billed Cuckoo; Common Screech, Great Horned, and Long-eared Owls; Belted Kingfisher (along the river); Hairy and Downy Woodpeckers; Great Crested and Least Flycatchers; Eastern Phoebe; Eastern Pewee; American Crow; Black-capped Chickadee; White-breasted Nuthatch; House Wren; Gray Catbird; Brown Thrasher; American Robin; Cedar Waxwing; Yellow-throated, Red-eyed, and Warbling Vireos; Black-and-white (rare) and Yellow Warblers; American Redstart; Northern Oriole; Brown-headed Cowbird; Rose-breasted Grosbeak; and Chipping Sparrow.

The second tour is the grasslands trail, which crosses 5 miles of mixed-grass prairie. It is usually passable from May 1 to September 15, but it should not be driven in wet weather, although you may still walk it. Precise directions may be obtained from the map at the headquarters, or you may find it by going east from Newburg (Bottineau County) for about 4 miles and turning north. The trail is marked.

Although not very long, the trail is great for finding the prairie specialties. Watch for Red-tailed and Swainson’s Hawks; Northern Harrier; Sharp-tailed Grouse; Gray Partridge; Marbled Godwit; Upland Sandpiper; Eastern and Western Kingbirds; Horned Lark; Sprague’s Pipit; Loggerhead Shrike; Bobolink; Western Meadowlark; Dickcissel; Lark Bunting; Grasshopper, Baird’s, Savannah, Vesper, and Clay-colored Sparrows; and Lapland (migration), Smith’s (rare—migration), and Chestnut-collared Longspurs.

b) Bottineau County

The city of Bottineau is well-known in North Dakota as the gateway to the International Peace Garden, which symbolizes our long-standing friendship with Canada. More importantly to the birder, it is the gateway to the Turtle Mountains, which are actually low hills dotted with lakes and potholes surrounded by stands of aspen, poplar, birch, and oak. The west end of the mountains is just north of Bottineau, from which they extend 35 miles to the east. This popular recreation area is filled in summer with campers, boaters, fishermen, and water-skiers. The place is not nearly as crowded in winter, but you will still run across snow-skiers and those abominations of the north—the snowmobiles.

Most of the birds can be found just by exploring any accessible areas with good habitat. One specific spot which is usually rewarding is Lake Metigoshe State Park. To reach it start from 4th Street in Bottineau, go north on Main Street for 0.8 mile, and turn right at the sign for the park. Shortly you will pass the North Dakota State School of Forestry on your right. After 1.0 mile turn left (paved road). In 9.3 miles the road forks. Go straight. This road leads along a large segment of the lake, which is peppered with resorts. Continue for 4.4 miles, and turn left to the park. Camping is allowed. There are even showers, which can feel great after a long day of birding.

The best thing about the park is the excellent nature trail. It stays close to the lake shore for awhile before cutting back through the middle of the forest to the campground. The trees and secondary growth along the way are typical of those found throughout the Turtle Mountains, and so are the birds. Some of the species to be found in summer include Cooper’s, Red-tailed, and Broad-winged Hawks; Ruffed Grouse; Black-billed Cuckoo; Ruby-throated Hummingbird; Yellow-bellied Sapsucker; Hairy and Downy Woodpeckers; Great Crested, Least, and Willow Flycatchers; Eastern Pewee; Blue Jay; American Crow; Black-capped Chickadee; White-breasted Nuthatch; House Wren; Brown Thrasher; Gray Catbird; Veery; Red-eyed, Warbling, Yellow-throated, and Philadelphia Vireos; Black-and-white, Yellow, Mourning, and Chestnut-sided Warblers; Northern Waterthrush; Ovenbird; American Redstart; Northern Oriole; Rose-breasted Grosbeak; American Goldfinch; Rufous-sided Towhee (eastern form); and White-throated (rare), Chipping, and Song Sparrows. The real prize has to be the Philadelphia Vireo. This is one of the few areas in the United States where this species is known to breed. Most of its breeding range is in Canada.