Two Centuries of Costume in America, Volume 1 (1620-1820)

Volume I

Nineteen Hundred and Three

Madam Padishal and Child Madam Padishal and Child.

To George P. Brett

“An honest Stationer (or Publisher) is he, that exercizeth his Mystery (whether it be in printing, bynding or selling of Bookes) with more respect to the glory of God & the publike aduantage than to his owne Commodity & is both an ornament & a profitable member in a ciuill Commonwealth.... If he be a Printer he makes conscience to exemplefy his Coppy fayrely & truly. If he be a Booke-bynder, he is no meere Bookeseller (that is) one who selleth meerely ynck & paper bundled up together for his owne aduantage only: but he is a Chapman of Arts, of wisdome, & of much experience for a little money.... The reputation of Schollers is as deare unto him as his owne: For, he acknowledgeth that from them his Mystery had both begining and means of continuance. He heartely loues & seekes the Prosperity of his owne Corporation: Yet he would not iniure the Uniuersityes to advantage it. In a word, he is such a man that the State ought to cherish him; Schollers to loue him; good Customers to frequent his shopp; and the whole Company of Stationers to pray for him.”

—GEORGE WITHER, 1625.

CONTENTS

VOL. I

I. APPAREL OF THE PURITAN AND PILGRIM FATHERS

II. DRESS OF THE NEW ENGLAND MOTHERS

III. ATTIRE OF VIRGINIA DAMES AND THEIR NEIGHBORS

IV. A VAIN PURITAN GRANDMOTHER

V. THE EVOLUTION OF COATS AND WAISTCOATS

VI. RUFFS AND BANDS

VII. CAPS AND BEAVERS IN COLONIAL DAYS

VIII. THE VENERABLE HOOD

IX. CLOAKS AND THEIR COUSINS

X. THE DRESS OF OLD-TIME CHILDREN

XI. PERUKES AND PERIWIGS

XII. THE BEARD

XIII. PATTENS, CLOGS, AND GOLOE-SHOES

XIV. BATTS AND BROAGS, BOOTS AND SHOES

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN VOLUME I

MADAM PADISHAL AND CHILD

Frontispiece

This fine presentation of the dress of a gentlewoman and infant child, in the middle of the seventeenth century, hung in old Plymouth homes in the Thomas and Stevenson families till it came by inheritance to the present owner, Mrs. Greely Stevenson Curtis of Boston, Mass. The artist is unknown.

JOHN ENDICOTT

Born in Dorchester, Eng., 1589. Died in Boston, Mass., 1665. He emigrated to America in 1628; became governor of the colony in 1644, and was major-general of the colonial troops. He hated Indians, the Church of Rome, and Quakers. He wears a velvet skull-cap, and a finger-ring, which is somewhat unusual; a square band; a richly fringed and embroidered glove; and a “stiletto” beard. This portrait is in the Essex Institute, Salem, Mass.

EDWARD WINSLOW

Born in England, 1595; died at sea, 1655. One of the founders of the Plymouth colony in 1620; and governor of that colony in 1633, 1636, 1644. This portrait is dated 1651. It is in Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth, Mass.

JOHN WINTHROP

Born in England, 1588; died in Boston, 1649. Educated at Trinity College, Cambridge; admitted to the Inner Temple, 1628. Made governor of Massachusetts Bay Colony in 1629. Arrived in Salem, 1630. His portrait by Van Dyck and a fine miniature exist. The latter is owned by American Antiquarian Society, Worcester, Mass. This picture is copied from a very rare engraving from the miniature, which is finer and even more thoughtful in expression than the portrait. Both have the lace-edged ruff, but the shape of the dress is indistinct.

SIMON BRADSTREET

Born in England, 1603; died in Salem, Mass., 1697. He was governor of the colony when he was ninety years old. The Labadists, who visited him, wrote: “He is an old man, quiet and grave; dressed in black silk, but not sumptuously.”

SIR RICHARD SALTONSTALL

A mayor of London who came to Salem among the first settlers. The New England families of his name are all descended from him. He wears buff-coat and trooping scarf. This portrait was painted by Rembrandt.

SIR WALTER RALEIGH

Born in Devonshire, Eng., 1552; executed in London, 1618. A courtier, poet, historian, nobleman, soldier, explorer, and colonizer. He was the favorite of Elizabeth; the colonizer of Virginia; the hero of the Armada; the victim of King James. In this portrait he wears a slashed jerkin; a lace ruff; a broad trooping scarf with great lace shoulder-knot; a jewelled sword-belt; full, embroidered breeches; lace-edged garters, and vast shoe-roses, which combine to form a confused dress.

SIR WALTER RALEIGH AND SON

This print was owned by the author for many years, with the written endorsement by some unknown hand, Martin Frobisher and Son. I am glad to learn that it is from a painting by Zucchero of Raleigh and his son, and is owned at Wickham Court, in Kent, Eng., by the descendant of one of Raleigh’s companions in his explorations. The child’s dress is less fantastic than other portraits of English children of the same date.

ROBERT DEVEREUX, EARL OF ESSEX

From an old print. A general of Cromwell’s army.

OLIVER CROMWELL DISSOLVING PARLIAMENT

From an old Dutch print.

SIR WILLIAM WALLER

A general in Cromwell’s army. Born, 1597; died, 1668. He served in the Thirty Years’ War. This portrait is in the National Portrait Gallery.

LORD FAIRFAX

A general in Cromwell’s army. From an old print.

ALDERMAN ABELL AND RICHARD KILVERT

From an old print.

REV. JOHN COTTON, D.D.

Born in Derby, Eng., 1585; died at Boston, Mass., in 1652. A Puritan clergyman who settled in Boston in 1633. He drew up for the colonists, at the request of the General Court, an abstract of the laws of Moses entitled Moses His Judicials, which was of greatest influence in the formation of the laws of the colony. This portrait is owned by Robert C. Winthrop, Esq.

REV. COTTON MATHER, D.D.

Born in Boston, Mass., 1683; died in Boston, Mass., 1728. A clergyman, author, and scholar. His book, Magnalia Christi Americana, an ecclesiastical history of New England, is of much value, though most trying. He took an active and now much-abhorred part in the Salem witchcraft. This portrait is owned by the American Antiquarian Society, Worcester, Mass.

SLASHED SLEEVES

From portraits temp. Charles I. The first is from a Van Dyck portrait of the Earl of Stanhope, and has a rich, lace-edged cuff. The second, with a graceful lawn undersleeve, is from a Van Dyck of Lucius Gary, Viscount Falkland. The third is from a painting by Mytens of the Duke of Hamilton. The fourth, by Van Dyck, is from one of Lord Villiers, Viscount Grandison.

MRS. KATHERINE CLARK

Born, 1602; died, 1671. An English gentlewoman renowned in her day for her piety and charity.

LADY MARY ARMINE

An English lady of great piety, whose gifts to Christianize the Indians make her name appear in the early history of Massachusetts. Her black domino and frontlet are of interest. This portrait was painted about 1650.

THE TUB-PREACHER

An old print of a Quaker meeting. Probably by Marcel Lawson.

VENICE POINT LACE

Owned by Mrs. Robert Fulton Crary of Poughkeepsie, N.Y.

REBECCA RAWSON

The daughter of Edward Rawson, Secretary of State. Born in Boston in 1656; married in 1679 to an adventurer, Thomas Rumsey, who called himself Sir Thomas Hale. She died at sea, in 1692. This portrait is owned by New England Historic Genealogical Society.

ELIZABETH PADDY

Born in Plymouth, Mass., in 1641. Daughter of William Paddy; she married John Wensley of Plymouth. Their daughter Sarah married Dr. Isaac Winslow. This portrait is in Pilgrim Hall, Plymouth, Mass.

MRS. SIMEON STODDARD

A wealthy Boston gentlewoman. This portrait was painted in the latter half of the seventeenth century. It is owned by the Massachusetts Historical Society.

ANCIENT BLACK LACE

Owned by Mrs. Robert Fulton Crary, Poughkeepsie, N.Y.

VIRAGO-SLEEVE

From a French portrait.

NINON DE L’ENCLOS

Born in Paris, 1615; died in 1705. Her dress has a slashed virago-sleeve and lace whisk.

LADY CATHERINE HOWARD

Grandchild of the Earl of Arundel. Aged thirteen years. Drawn in 1646 by W. Hollar.

COSTUMES OF ENGLISHWOMEN OF SEVENTEENTH CENTURY

Plates from Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus, or Several Habits of Englishwomen, 1640. By Wenceslaus Hollar, an engraver of much note and much performance; born at Prague, 1607; died in England, 1677. This book contains twenty-six plates illustrating women’s dress in all ranks of life with absolute fidelity.

GERTRUDE SCHUYLER LIVINGSTONE

Second wife and widow of Robert Livingstone. The curiously plaited widow’s cap can be seen under her hood.

MRS. MAGDALEN BEEKMAN

Died in New York in 1730. Widow of Gerardus Beekman, who died in 1723.

LADY ANNE CLIFFORD

Born, 1590. Daughter of George Clifford, Earl of Cumberland. Painted in 1603.

LADY HERRMAN

Of Bohemia Manor, Maryland. Wife of a pioneer settler. From Some Colonial Mansions. Published by Henry T. Coates & Co.

ELIZABETH CROMWELL

Mother of Oliver Cromwell. She died at Whitehall in 1654, aged 90 years. This portrait is at Hinchinbrook, and is owned by the Earl of Sandwich. It was painted by Robert Walker. Her dress is described as “a green velvet cardinal, trimmed with gold lace.” Her hood is white satin.

POCAHONTAS

Daughter of Powhatan, and wife of Mr. Thomas Rolfe. Born 1593; died 1619; aged twenty-one when this was painted. The portrait is owned by a member of the Rolfe family.

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