CHAPTER XXIII. Trees and Shrubs in Scotland

TREES AND SHRUBS IN SCOTLAND

The following list has been kindly sent me by a great lover of trees and shrubs who lives at Forres. My correspondent writes: "I have grown all the plants in my list in my own garden, except Buddleia globosa and Aralia chinensis, but the latter is grown in quantity by several of my neighbours, and there are also several fine plants of the Buddleia in many gardens in sheltered spots. My experience is that many plants are quite frost-proof but cannot stand cold winds. This applies more especially to the shrubby Veronicas. I have seen them in the Edinburgh Botanic Gardens as if scorched with fire on the exposed side, while they were untouched where sheltered from the north and east. My own garden is fairly well sheltered."

Amelanchier canadensis.--Hardy, free-flowering, beautiful at all times.

Aralia chinensis (Dimorphanthus) mandschurica.--Useful in some positions for its curious habit of growth and rather handsome foliage; quite hardy.

Aristolochia Sipho.--This has curious and inconspicuous flowers, which give this climbing plant its popular name of "Dutchman's Pipe." It can be grown on a wall, in which position, perhaps, its fine foliage is seen to the best advantage, but it is quite hardy and looks well climbing into a thin tree such as the Common Almond.

Berberis (Mahonia) Aquifolium.--A handsome plant at all times, and will even grow under the shade of trees.

Berberis Darwinii.--Very bright in flower. Young and sappy shoots get killed back in winter.

Berberis Thunbergi.--A most attractive Berberis; it makes a small neat-growing bush to which the adjective "sparkling" might be applied. Its chief glory is its autumnal foliage, and a large clump in September is "a sight to see"; quite hardy.

Berberis vulgaris.--Very beautiful when clustered with fruit. The purple-leaved variety (B. v. purpurea) is most useful for its foliage.

Betula alba purpurea.--A good foliage tree.

Buddleia globosa.--This does well in a warm sheltered spot facing south-west, where the morning sun in winter will not touch it too soon. It also objects to exposure to cold winds.

Calycanthus floridus.--Quite hardy, and grows well in half-shady places.

Ceanothus azureus.--This succeeds either trained to a wall or as a bush. In the latter case it should be in a sheltered position. It seems quite frost-proof, and its blue flowers are very beautiful at a time when few shrubs are in bloom (July and August). Its shoots should be well thinned, and those left shortened as soon as the buds begin to show signs of movement in the spring. The best form I have tried is Gloire de Versailles.

Choisya ternata (Mexican Orange Flower).--This is well worth growing as a bush in a sheltered angle of a wall, where it can be protected in winter with a hurdle or some such contrivance, lightly thatched with Broom. It is even then, in very severe weather, cut about the points of the shoots, which, of course, spoils the blooming; but it soon grows through again, and it is worth growing for its foliage alone.

Clematis.--These mostly do well, and the newer sorts are very attractive, but for all purposes it is very hard to beat C. montana and C. Jackmani, the former in May and the latter for the autumn.

Clethra alnifolia.--A neat and free-flowering shrub, with spikes of white flowers in August; it is very hardy and useful, as few shrubs are in flower at that time.

Cornus alba.--A clump of this Dogwood is very effective in winter, especially when the sun is shining on its bright-red shoots. C. a. Spaethii is a good variegated variety.

Corylus Avellana purpurea.--A good purple-leaved nut.

Cotoneaster microphylla.--Quite hardy either as a bush or on a wall.

Cytisus albus.--No garden should be without this beautiful Broom. C. præcox, the Cream Broom, is a dwarfer but no less beautiful variety; it is very pretty grouped with a few plants of C. purpureus, which flowers at the same time. Another fine Broom is the red and yellow variety of the Common Broom (C. scoparius andreanus). The Brooms will grow anywhere, but prefer an open place in full sun. They should be cut hard back after flowering, and if the young seed-pods can be picked off so much the better.

Daphne Cneorum.--A bright little shrub best grown on the rock garden; quite hardy.

Daphne Laureola.--This has fine foliage and will grow in quite a shady place.

Daphne Mezereum.--A beautiful early-flowering Daphne, too well known for description.

Deutzia crenata.--A most useful hardy shrub, growing to a good size. The variety, Pride of Rochester, is very pretty.

Diervilla (Weigela).--Indispensable shrubs, very hardy, free-flowering, and easily grown. The flowering shoots should be cut back to strong young wood as soon as the flowers fade. They are most accommodating in this respect, as the strongest of the young shoots start well back and not at the points, as is usual with most plants. Good varieties are Eva Rathke, Hortensis nivea, and rosea.

Escallonia macrantha.--A good wall shrub.

Escallonia philippiana.--Hardier than E. macrantha, and can be grown as a bush in a sheltered spot.

Forsythia suspensa.--Quite hardy, and very beautiful in early spring, as it flowers before the leaf-buds burst. It should be cut back to young growths after the flower is over.

Fuchsia Riccartoni.--This gets cut down every winter, but is never killed, and it flowers abundantly every year treated as a hardy herbaceous plant.

Garrya elliptica.--Quite hardy as a bush.

Genista tinctoria fl. pl.--A low-growing trailing Genista, useful for the rock garden and flowering when many of the alpines are over.

Genista virgata.--A very different plant from the above, and will make a very large bush, covered with pale-yellow flowers in late summer. A good shrub.

Halesia tetraptera.--Quite hardy and attractive both in bloom and foliage.

Hamamelis arborea.--This is quite hardy, but grows very slowly. It flowers in a small state, but not very freely. I have only had this plant for four years, but I think it will do very well, and should flower more freely when a bit larger.

Hedysarum multijugum.--Quite hardy. An attractive shrub, with spikes of reddish pea-like flowers in July and August. It increases freely from the root by suckers. Thin and cut back the shoots in spring.

Helianthemum vulgare (Rock Rose).--There are many garden varieties of this, both double and single, the single sorts being the most attractive. They are quite hardy on a warm and sunny rock garden.

Hydrangea paniculata.--Hardy. A splendid low-growing shrub, flowering in autumn. A group of this, with a few plants of Prunus Pissardi cut hard back every spring to keep them small, is very effective, and the group can be carpeted with Lily of the Valley or London Pride to cover the bare soil underneath. The shoots of the Hydrangea should be well thinned, and those left cut hard back in the spring. It well repays a dose or two of liquid manure in the growing season. The variety, grandiflora, is better than the type.

Hypericum calycinum (Rose of Sharon).--Grows well in half shade. It is a dwarf plant, very pretty, but perhaps too often seen. Useful for carpeting other shrubs.

Jasminum nudiflorum.--Best on a wall. Winter flowering (yellow) and very pretty when in bloom.

Jasminum officinale.--Requires a wall, but does well while young. It is not a very long-lived plant here.

Kalmia latifolia.--Very attractive pink flowers; hardy, and will do wherever Rhododendrons flourish.

Kerria japonica.--A pretty yellow-flowered shrub that increases rapidly from the root. The double-flowered variety is the most commonly grown.

Laburnum.--Too well known for description. L. Adami is curious and worth growing.

Lavendula Spica.--The Lavender needs no description.

Leycesteria formosa.--A good plant for a shady place. It grows well under trees, and is very hardy.

Ligustrum ovalifolium (Privet).--The golden form of this is good and bright.

Liriodendron tulipifera.--Grows well here, and is quite hardy, but seldom flowers so far north.

Lonicera periclymenum.--The common native Honeysuckle is an indispensable climber, and will grow almost anywhere; but looks best, perhaps, climbing up trees, or over shrubs or hedges. The variety, serotina, flowers later than the type, and is best known under the name of Late Dutch. L. Sullivantii is a shrubby sort, with not unattractive flowers of a brownish-orange colour.

Magnolia.--The only one I have tried is M. stellata, which has proved quite hardy, and I have no doubt that several others would do quite as well in sheltered places.

Neillia opulifolia (Spiræa opulifolia).--Quite hardy.

Pernettya mucronata.--Does well.

Pieris (Andromeda) floribunda.--Is quite hardy and very beautiful early in the year. Will grow in soils that suit Rhododendrons.

Potentilla fruticosa.--A little summer-flowering shrub, with yellow flowers. It does well on the upper parts of the rock garden, and is quite hardy.

Prunus (Cerasus) Mahaleb pendula.--A very attractive little weeping tree, with small white flowers in spring.

Pyrus.--The following do well here: Pyrus floribunda, P. coronaria, P. lobata (syn. Mespilus grandiflora), and, of course, the native Rowan tree (P. Aucuparia). The family of Apples enjoy a well-drained place, being impatient of too much wet at the roots; otherwise, their culture is of the simplest. They should be allowed to grow as they will, only cutting out any branches that would be obviously better away, and dead wood if any.

Rhododendrons and Azaleas luxuriate here. The common R. ponticum sows itself in the woods. I have not yet tried the Himalayan Rhododendrons, but from what I have seen of them in the Edinburgh Botanic Gardens, which are much exposed to cold winds, I feel fairly certain I could grow them here, where I can give them more protection.

Rhodotypus kerrioides.--A very pretty hardy shrub, flowering on and off all the summer. It has very clean white flowers, and from appearances looks as though a cross with Kerria might be successful. The Rhodotypus seeds freely here. It grows to a good size.

Rhus Cotinus.--Another good shrub, attractive either in flower or foliage, and the latter turns to a good colour in autumn.

Ribes.--No garden should be without a plant of the Common Ribes. I also grow Aureum and a pale pinkish-white sort.

Robinia hispida (Rose Acacia).--This is doing well in a corner sheltered from the north, east, and west by evergreens.

Roses.--The best that I grow as shrubs (in the garden sense) are the Penzance Briars, Rosa rugosa (Japanese Rose), Austrian Briars, R. spinosissima, Blairii II., Charles Lawson, R. macrantha, R. alpina, &c. These Roses stand up and make a good bush in a sheltered place, without staking or any other trouble. Very little pruning is needful, and that after the flowers are over, cutting out weak wood and shortening some of the old shoots back to where young ones are breaking vigorously.

Rubus deliciosus.--Very pretty white flowers, large for a bramble. It appears to be quite hardy, but is not a very strong grower.

Ruscus aculeatus (Butcher's Broom).--An inconspicuous little shrub that grows well under trees.

Spartium junceum (Spanish Broom).--A good shrub for a sheltered bank; it has spikes of bright-yellow flowers in July.

Spiræa.--Most of the Spiræas do well here. The following are the best of those I grow: S. canescens, very pretty habit of growth and foliage; S. discolor (ariæfolia), S. japonica (vars. alba, Bumalda, and Anthony Waterer), the last-mentioned very good. S. lindleyana, a large grower, handsome both in flower and foliage. S. prunifolia fl. pl. should be in all gardens; good both for flowers and autumnal foliage. S. Van Houttei, very good. Exochorda grandiflora, often known as Spiræa grandiflora, I have had since 1898, but though it is now a large bush and very healthy, it has not yet made any attempt to flower.

Syringa (Lilacs).--These are indispensable. Some of the newer varieties are good, such as Charles X., rosy lilac; Marie Legraye, white; Souv. de L. Späth, reddish; Mme. Lemoine, double white. These should always be procured on their own roots. Grafted plants seldom live long.

Veronica.--Several of the shrubby Veronicas do well. V. Traversii is the hardiest of all. In the Edinburgh Botanic Gardens there is a good collection of these.

Viburnum Opulus sterilis.--This, the well-known Snowball tree, and V. Tinus (Laurustinus), are the only two I have grown. Both do well, and I fancy V. plicatum and some others would do also. I shall try them.

Vitis Coignetiæ.--I have this growing up the outer branches of a Spanish Chestnut. It does not grow very fast, but is making steady progress. It appears to be perfectly hardy, and its fine foliage turns to a magnificent colour in autumn.

TREES AND SHRUBS IN EDINBURGH

Trees and shrubs that will thrive near Edinburgh will do so in almost any exposed city or town similarly situated. Only those that have proved adaptable to this windswept district have been included, an asterisk being placed against the more beautiful and interesting species and varieties that are happy in cold and windy gardens.

ACERS.--A. Pseudo-platanus is the "Plane" of Scotland. Old trees form features of great beauty. It reaches a height of 60 to 70 feet, often less when isolated. A. P. var. flavo-marginatum*.--The original tree of this variety still remains at Corstorphine, near Edinburgh. It is very effective in spring, but the foliage becomes much duller during summer. A. P. purpureum. A. campestre (Common Maple). A. circinatum*.--This is the most beautifully-coloured tree we have in autumn. A. platanoides* (Norway Maple).--This is to be preferred to either the Sycamore or Common Maple for planting in pleasure-grounds and gardens. A. dasycarpum.* A. palmatum*.--The varieties of this are excellent although slow growing. A. rubrum. A. pictum. A. opulifolium obtusatum*.--A bright tree in early spring with its golden-green foliage and flowers. A. saccharinum (Sugar Maple). A. japonicum and varieties.

ACTINIDIA KOLOMIKTA.--Climber; grows quickly on south wall.

HORSE CHESTNUT (Æsculus Hippocastanum) and others: carnea, Pavia, parviflora, flava.

AILANTUS GLANDULOSA (Tree of Heaven).

AMELANCHIER VULGARIS and A. canadensis.*--Very ornamental. Seldom seen, but as free-growing and flowering as the Hawthorn. The popular name for these beautiful trees is Snowy Mespilus.

ARALIA SPINOSA and A. chinensis.*

ARBUTUS ANDRACHNE.--Flowers in February and March.

ARCTOSTAPHYLOS ALPINA.--Plenty of this found in north of Scotland, but somewhat difficult to establish in gardens. A. Uva-ursi.--Freer in growth than the preceding. Both species are low-creeping shrubs suitable for planting with Heaths in peat.

ARISTOLOCHIA SIPHO (Dutchman's Pipe).--Large effective climber.

ARTEMISIA ABROTANUM, arborescens, and tridentata.*--Useful shrubs of grey tone.

AUCUBA JAPONICA and varieties.*

AZARA MICROPHYLLA* and A. dentata.

BERBERIS AQUIFOLIUM,* Darwinii, vulgaris, nepalensis. Single specimens of B. Aquifolium, the Mahonia, become very ornamental with age.

BETULA ALBA* (the Silver Birch).--A very hardy tree, beautiful both in summer and winter. The pendulous variety is the best. Its branches are proof against all winds. No tree is so well adapted for planting close up to houses in the city, for it is very graceful, and obscures little light. B. utilis, B. papyrifera, B. populifolia.

BOX* and varieties.

BRYANTHUS EMPETRIFORMIS.*--Very fine planted in broad masses. B. erectus--Very beautiful in small beds.

CALYCANTHUS FLORIDUS.--This is excellent on walls.

CAMELLIAS only flower here on walls in the open. They form large bushes in the grounds. Camellia Thea, the tea-plant, is also perfectly hardy.

CARMICHÆLIA FLAGELLIFORMIS.*--Very interesting, and flowering with great freedom.

CARPENTERIA CALIFORNICA.*--A splendid plant for south walls, large established specimens having a profusion of large white flowers.

CARPINUS BETULUS* (Hornbeam) and varieties.

CARYOPTERIS MASTACANTHUS.--A good wall plant.

CASSIOPE FASTIGIATA* and C. tetragona.*--Both are very choice subjects here and flower well.

CASTANEA SATIVA* (Sweet or Spanish Chestnut).--Ornamental, but does not ripen fruit here.

CEANOTHUS AMERICANUS and veitchianus.*--Splendid.

CERCIS SILIQUASTRUM* (Judas tree).

CHIMONANTHUS FRAGRANS (Winter-sweet).--Wall.

CHOISYA TERNATA (Mexican Orange Flower).

CISTUS.*--These are very fine, and flower for months if somewhat sheltered.

CLEMATIS.--Of these very charming are alpina,* apiifolia, Flammula,* heracleæfolia, Vitalba.*

COLLETIA CRUCIATA.

COLUTEA ARBORESCENS and melanocalyx.

CONVOLVULUS CNEORUM.*--Very pretty plant for a south wall; silvery foliage and white flowers.

CORNUS (Dogwood).--Of these, alba and varieties, Kousa, florida, sanguinea (very ornamental in winter), Mas and m. variegata* (a very choice, variegated shrub), are the best.

CORYLOPSIS PAUCIFLORA and C. spicata.--Both do well on a south wall.

CORYLUS (nut) AVELLANA purpurea.*--One of the most effective shrubs if used carefully.

COTONEASTERS.--Of these, buxifolia, Simonsii, thymifolia,* microphylla,* horizontalis* (a species with peculiar spreading flat branches, producing a fine effect if grown on sloping banks), are the most noteworthy.

HAWTHORN.--Cratægus are valuable hardy trees, flowering at the end of June to July; the scarlet form is brilliant.

CYTISUS (Broom).--Of this beautiful family, albus,* Ardoini,* biflorus,* decumbens,* nigricans, præcox,* purpureus,* scoparius and varieties,* are all splendid growers for dry, sunny situations.

DABOECIA.--Polifolia,* alba,* bicolor,* the Irish Heaths, are beautiful in small beds and rockeries.

DAPHNE.--Of this delightful family, blagayana,* Cneorum,* var. majus,* Laureola, Mezereum and varieties.*

DEUTZIA GRACILIS* and D. crenata.

ELÆAGNUS ARGENTEA,* E. multiflora,* and E. pungens.*

EMPETRUM NIGRUM.*--This plant is useful for mixing with Heaths.

ENKIANTHUS HIMALAICUS.*--The finest species of the genus. Attractive.

HEATHS.--Of these, E. carnea,* c. alba,* ciliaris,* cinerea,* Mackaii,* mediterranea,* multiflora, stricta,* Tetralix and varieties,* vagans and varieties,* Watsoni.*

ERIOGONUM UMBELLATUM.--A very fine plant for covering banks.

ESCALLONIA.--Of these, E. exoniensis,* macrantha,* philippiana,* are very valuable, either for walls or as small bushes.

EUCRYPHIA PINNATIFOLIA.*--A very beautiful but slow-growing hardy shrub.

EUONYMUS.--Of this family note should be made of E. americanus, E. europæus, E. radicans.* The variegated and other forms of these shrubs are very welcome.

EXOCHORDA GRANDIFLORA (Pearl Bush).

FABIANA IMBRICATA.*--A striking evergreen shrub for a wall.

FAGUS (Beech).--F. ferruginea and sylvatica* and varieties.

FORSYTHIA SUSPENSA* and F. viridissima.

FRAXINUS EXCELSIOR* (the Ash), also the Manna Ash (F. Ornus).*

FUCHSIA RICCARTONI.*--Flowers for a very long time, and is very hardy.

GENISTA.--Of these, G. anglica, hispanica, pilosa, sagittalis, tinctoria.

GLEDITSCHIA TRIACANTHOS.

HAMAMELIS (Witch or Wych Hazel).--H. arborea,* japonica,* virginica.

HYDRANGEA PANICULATA.*--Magnificent when established.

HYPERICUM.--Of these, H. Androsæmum, hookerianum, moserianum* (the best of the genus for small beds).

ILEX.--Of the Hollies, I. Aquifolium and many varieties, I. cornuta,* I. Dahoon,* I. crenata,* and I. latifolia* succeed best.

JASMINES.--J. fruticans and J. nudiflorum.* The last-named should be grown as a small bush as well as on walls. Also J. officinale* and varieties. A golden-leaved form of this species merits attention from its foliage alone.

JUGLANS (Walnut) REGIA.--Grows fairly well, but no fruit of value.

LABURNUM.--Both L. alpinum and L. vulgare.*

LAVENDER.

LEDUM.--Of this family, L. latifolium* and L. palustre.*

LEUCOTHOË RECURVA.

LEYCESTERIA FORMOSA.

LIQUIDAMBAR STYRACIFLUA.*

LIRIODENDRON TULIPIFERA (Tulip tree*).--Grows into a very handsome tree.

LONICERA.--Of the Honeysuckles the best are L. Caprifolium,* L. fragrantissima, L. Periclymenum,* L. japonica,* L. Standishi, L. Xylosteum, L. involucrata.

LUPINUS ARBOREUS* and varieties (Tree Lupine).--Best on walls.

MAGNOLIAS.--Of these, M. acuminata,* the Cucumber tree, flowers freely. M. grandiflora* is only for sheltered walls, and M. Fraseri, M. conspicua, M. stellata, M. Watsoni* for sheltered places.

MORUS NIGRA (Black Mulberry) and M. alba.

OLEARIA HAASTII.*--The best August flowering shrub. O. macrodonta and stellulata.*

OSMANTHUS AQUIFOLIUM.*

PERNETTYA MUCRONATA.*--Effective both in flower and berry.

PHILADELPHUS (Mock Orange).--P. coronarius* and varieties and microphyllus.

PHLOMIS FRUTICOSA.

PIERIS FLORIBUNDA.*--Very free flowering. P. japonica variegata*--Effective.

PLATANUS ACERIFOLIA (Plane).--This appears hardy, but is not popular. It is slower in growth than most trees.

POPULUS (Poplar).--P. alba, P. balsamifera (Balsam Poplar), P. nigra (Black Poplar), and P. tremula.

POTENTILLA FRUTICOSA* (Shrubby Cinquefoil).--Well deserves more attention.

PRUNUS.--Of these, the Cherry and Bird Cherry,* Plum,* Bullace,* and the beautiful P. triloba are a success.

PTELEA TRIFOLIATA.

PYRUS.--P. Aria* (the White Beam tree), P. Aucuparia* (Mountain Ash), P. japonica,* P. rotundifolia,* P. Sorbus* (Service tree).

QUERCUS (Oak).--The most satisfactory species are Q. sessilifolia,* and Q. pedunculata. These generally thrive well and are amongst the most beautiful of trees for large gardens. In poor soil and windswept places the British Oaks do not grow more than about 40 feet in height, but develop into picturesque features. Their foliage here is of a pleasing green when that of the Beech and Sycamore is past its best. Very few acorns are produced. Q. Cerris,* the Turkey Oak, and its variety laciniata,* and Q. lucombeana,* are also beautiful trees. We must also mention the Evergreen Oak (Q. Ilex),* alba, palustris, laurifolia, coccinea (Scarlet Oak), Suber (Cork Oak), conferta.

RHODODENDRON.--Of the Rhododendrons the following are satisfactory: R. altaclerense, Anthopogon, arborescens, arboreum Campbelliæ, azaleoides, blandyanum, calendulaceum, campanulatum, campylocarpum, catawbiense, caucasicum,* ciliatum, cinnabarinum,* ferrugineum,* fulgens, glaucum,* hirsutum* and varieties, indicum balsaminæflorum, lancifolium, lepidotum,* myrtifolium,* nobleanum,* n. album,* ponticum* (many varieties), præcox,* punctatum, racemosum, Rhodora, sinensis* (Azalea mollis), Vaseyi,* Wilsoni. These are the principal Rhododendrons that thrive and flower well here. No other shrubs give such a long and varied flower display.

RIBES.--R. alpinum, aureum, and rubrum. R. sanguineum* and its varieties are the principal ornamental currants.

ROBINIA PSEUDACACIA.*--An elegant foliage tree, and usually the last to break into leaf.

ROSA.--Practically all the Tea and Hybrid Perpetual Roses can be grown, if sheltered spots are chosen and the plants grown as dwarfs. However, the stronger varieties are the most satisfactory ones, and in bad seasons it is July before they commence to flower, although September has well advanced before they cease. The hybrid Sweet Briars are the freest of all to grow. Groups form thickets of foliage which are almost hidden with blossom. Rosa wichuraiana covers banks, or anything somewhat flat, in a very short time. It flowers through September, and attracts great attention. Such tender Roses as Maréchal Niel, Niphetos, and Banksian are useless.

ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS (Rosemary).

RUBUS.--Of these, R. arcticus, dwarf; R. lacinatus,* R. nutkanus.* R. deliciosus* is a beautiful shrub, and should be left alone after planting.

RUSCUS (Butcher's Broom).--R. aculeatus and R. Hypoglossum.

SALIX (Willow).--S. alba, babylonica (Babylonian Willow), and pendula, a lovely tree. S. Caprea* (Goat Willow), fragilis, herbacea (the Alpine Willow, not much larger than the Wild Thyme), Lapponum, nigra, Paulinæ, reticulata, rubra, viminalis.

SAMBUCUS (Elder).--S. canadensis, nigra, racemosus.

SKIMMIA FORTUNEI and S. japonica.*

SPIRÆAS.--Of these, S. bella, bullata, canescens, decumbens, cantoniensis,* discolor,* japonica, var. Bumalda,* tomentosa, var. alba.

STAPHYLEA COLCHICA.

SYMPHORICARPUS RACEMOSUS (Snowberry).

SYRINGA (Lilac).--S. persica* (Persian Lilac), and S. vulgaris* and varieties.

TAMARIX.--T. gallica, T. hispida, and T. odessana,* a very fine August flowering shrub.

TILIA (Lime).--T. argentea, T. cordata, T. platyphyllos, and T. vulgaris,* the best of all.

ULEX (Furze).--U. europæus and var. fl. pl.*

ULMUS (Elm).--U. campestris* and U. montana.*

VACCINIUMS.--Of these choose V. arboreum, V. corymbosum, V. Myrtillus, and V. pennsylvanicum,* very fine for drooping over rocks in rock garden; V. Vitis-idæa and the variety variegata, a pretty variety of this native shrub.

VERONICA.--Of these the most satisfactory are V. amplexicaulis,* Armstrongii,* buxifolia,* chathamica,* Colensoi,* cupressoides,* c. variabilis*--grown in poor soil and well exposed, this variety of V. cupressoides is very fine both in summer and winter--decumbens,* epacridea,* glauco-cærulea,* Hectori,* Kirkii,* ligustrifolia,* monticola,* pimeleoides,* pinguifolia,* rakaiensis,* salicifolia,* Traversii.* The above are hardy Veronicas. They also happily include many of the best. Other species are good plants out of doors during summer; they are, however, best lifted early in October and housed till May, or they may be covered in severe weather. Cold winds do most mischief.

VIBURNUM OPULUS (Guelder Rose) and varieties, V. O. sterilis,* and V. tomentosum plicatum.*

VINCA (Periwinkle).--V. major* and V. minor* and varieties.

VITIS (Vines).--Of these the best are V. Coignetiæ,* V. heterophylla,* V. Labrusca,* and V. riparia.*

YUCCA.--Y. acutifolia, Y. filamentosa,* and Y. gloriosa.*

BAMBOOS.--These require sheltered positions and good deep soil. The following have proved to be the best out of a considerable number: Arundinaria auricoma,* Fortunei,* var. variegata,* falcata,* Hindsii,* japonica,* nitida,* pumila,* Veitchii,* Simoni variegata,* Bambusa palmata,* B. tessellata,* Phyllostachys aurea,* Henonis,* boryana,* flexuosa,* mitis,* nigra,* Quiloi,* viridi-glaucescens.*

CONIFERS.--These are only useful when young--at least, the majority of them. It is impossible to keep them symmetrical against strong cold winds, and the deposits of soot upon their foliage are injurious.

When Conifers are wished for as large trees, the Cedar of Lebanon, Atlantic Cedar, Pinus sylvestris, Pinus Pinaster, or Cupressus lawsoniana are suitable.

When Abies and Picea lose their symmetry they are usually far from ornamental. All the species and beautiful varieties of Cupressus, Thuya, and Juniperus are very valuable in a young state. They should be replaced as they become thin and shabby, as they soon do in exposed places. The most satisfactory tree of all is the Yew. Even this hardy tree has its foliage badly hurt by severe winds, but the damage is soon made good.