Travels in Peru, on the Coast, in the Sierra, Across the Cordilleras and the Andes, Into the Primeval Forests

CHAPTER II.. Valparaiso and the Adjacent Country--the Bay--Aspect of the

Valparaiso and the adjacent country--The Bay--Aspect of the Town--Lighthouses--Forts--Custom House--Exchange--Hotels and Taverns--War with the Peru-Bolivian Confederation--First Expedition--Preparations for the Second Expedition--Embarkation of the Troops--Close of the Port--July Festival in honor of the French Revolution--The Muele, or Mole--Police--Serenos, or Watchmen--Movable Prisons--Clubs--Trade of Valparaiso--Santiago--Zoology 15

CHAPTER III.. Juan Fernandez--Robinson Crusoe--Passage to Callao--San

Juan Fernandez--Robinson Crusoe--Passage to Callao--San Lorenzo--Rise and fall of the coast--Mr. Darwin's opinions on this subject--Callao--The Fortress--Siege by the Spaniards--General Rodil--Siege by the Chilians--The Colocolo--Pirates--Zoology--Road to Lima 26

CHAPTER IV.. Lima--Situation and Extent of the City--Streets,

Lima--Situation and extent of the City--Streets, Houses, Churches and Convents--San Pedro--The Jesuits--Nunneries--Beatarios--Hospitals--San Andres--The Foundling House--The Pantheon--The Palace--The Plaza Mayor--Pizarro--The Cabildo--Fountains--Palace of the Inquisition--The University--National Library--Museum of Natural History and Antiquities--Academy of Design--The Mint--The Theatre--Circus for Cock-fighting--The Bridge--The City Wall--Santa Catalina--Barracks 42

CHAPTER V.. Population of Lima--Its Diminution--Different Races of the

Population of Lima--Its diminution--Different races of the Inhabitants--Their characteristics--Amusements--Education--The Women of Lima--Their Costume--the Saya y Manto--Female domestic life--Love of dress--Beatas--Indians--Slaves--Bosales--Free Creoles--Negroes--Negresses--Black Creoles--Their varieties--Mestizos--Mulattoes--Pelanganas--Zambos--Chinos--Foreigners in Lima--Corruption of the Spanish language 63

CHAPTER VI.. Primary Schools--Colleges--the University--Monks--Saints--Santo

Primary Schools--Colleges--The University--Monks--Saints--Santo Toribio and Santa Rosa--Religious Processions--Raising the Host--The Noche Buena--The Carnival--Paseos, or Public Promenades--Ice--Riding and Driving--Horses--Their Equipments and Training--Mules--Lottery in Lima--Cookery--Breakfasts, Dinners, &c.--Coffee-houses and Restaurants--Markets--The Plazo Firme del Acho--Bull Fights 89

CHAPTER VII.. Geographical Situation of Lima--Height Above Sea

Geographical Situation of Lima--Height above Sea level--Temperature--Diseases--Statistical Tables of Births and Deaths--Earthquakes--The Valley of Lima--The River Rimac--Aqueducts, Trenches, &c.--Irrigation--Plantations--Cotton--Sugar--Various kinds of Grain--Maize--Potatoes, and other tuberous roots--Pulse--Cabbage--Plants used for Seasoning--Clover--The Olive and other Oil Trees--Fruits--Figs and Grapes--The Chirimoya--The Palta--The Banana and other Fruits 111

CHAPTER VIII.

Robbers on the coast of Peru--The Bandit Leaders Leon and Rayo--The Corps of Montoneros--Watering Places near Lima--Surco, Atte and Lurin--Pacchacamac--Ruins of the Temple of the Sun--Difficulties of Travelling on the Coast of Peru--Sea Passage to Huacho--Indian Canoes--Ichthyological Collections--An old Spaniard's recollections of Alexander Von Humboldt--The Padre Requena--Huacho--Plundering of Burial Places--Huaura--Malaria--The Sugar Plantation at Luhmayo--Quipico--Ancient Peruvian Ruins--The Salinas, or Salt Pits--Gritalobos--Chancay--The Piques--Mode of extracting them--Valley of the Pasamayo--Extraordinary Atmospheric Mirrors--Piedras Gordas--Palo Seco 137

CHAPTER IX.. The Coast Southward of Lima--Chilca--Curious Cigar Cases Made

The Coast southward of Lima--Chilca--Curious Cigar cases made there--Yauyos--Pisco--Journey to Yea--A night on the Sand Plains--Fatal Catastrophe in the year 1823--Vine Plantations at Yea--Brandy and Wine--Don Domingo Elias--Vessels for transporting Brandy (Botijas and Odres)--Cruel mode of skinning Goats--Negro Carnival--Peculiar species of Guinea Pig--The Salamanqueja--Cotton Plantations--Quebrada of Huaitara--Sangallan--Guano--Retrospect of the Peruvian Coast--Rivers--Medanos--Winds--Change of Seasons--The Garuas--The Lomas--Mammalia--Birds--Amphibia 160

CHAPTER X.

Roads leading to the Sierra--Chaclacayo and Santa Iñes--Barometrical observations--San Pedro Mama--The Rio Seco--Extraordinary Geological Phenomenon--Similar one described by Mr. Darwin--Surco--Diseases peculiar to the Villages of Peru--The Verugas--Indian mode of treating the disorder--The Bird-catching Spider--Horse-Shoeing--Indian Tambos--San Juan de Matucanas--The Thorn-apple and the Tonga--The Tambo de Viso--Bridges--San Mateo--Passports--Acchahuari--Malady called the Veta--Its effects on horses--Singular tact and caution of Mules--Antarangra and Mountain Passes--Curious partition of Water--Piedra Parada--Yauli--Indian Smelting Furnaces--Mineral Springs--Portuguese Mine owners--Saco--Oroya--Hanging Bridges--Huaros--Roads leading from Oroya 179

CHAPTER XI.

The Cordillera and the Andes--Signification of the terms--Altitude of the Mountains and Passes--Lakes--Metals--Aspect of the Cordillera--Shattered Rocks--Maladies caused by the diminished Atmospheric Pressure--The Veta and the Surumpe--Mountain Storms--The Condor--Its habits--Indian mode of Catching the Bird--The Puna or Despoblado--Climate--Currents of Warm Air--Vegetation--Tuberous Plant called the Maca--Animals of the Puna--The Llama, the Alpaco, the Huanacu and the Vicuña--The Chacu and the Bolas--Household Utensils of the Ancient Peruvians--The Viscacha and the Chinchilla--Puna Birds and Amphibia--Cattle and Pasture--Indian Farms--Shepherds' Huts--Ancient Peruvian Roads and Buildings--Treasure concealed by the Indians in the Puna 203

CHAPTER XII.. Cerro De Pasco--First Discovery of the Mines--Careless Mode of

Cerro de Pasco--First discovery of the Mines--Careless mode of working them--Mine Owners and Mine Laborers--Amalgamating and Refining--Produce of the Mines--Life in Cerro de Pasco--Different Classes of the Population--Gaming and Drunkenness--Extravagance and Improvidence of the Indian Mine Laborers--The Cerro de San Fernando--Other Important Mining Districts in Peru--The Salcedo Mine Castrovireyna--Vast Productiveness of the Silver Mines of Peru--Rich Mines secretly known to the Indians--Roads leading from Cerro de Pasco--The Laguna of Chinchaycocha--Battle of Junin--Indian Robbers--A Day and a Night in the Puna Wilds 229

CHAPTER XIII.. The Sierra--Its Climate and Productions--Inhabitants--Trade--Eggs

The Sierra--Its Climate and Productions--Inhabitants--Trade--Eggs circulated as money--Mestizos in the Sierra--Their Idleness and Love of Gaming and Betting--Agriculture--The Quinua Plant, a substitute for Potatoes--Growth of Vegetables and Fruits in the Sierra--Rural Festivals at the Seasons of Sowing and Reaping--Skill of the Indians in various Handicrafts--Excess of Brandy-Drinking--Chicha--Disgusting mode of making it--Festivals of Saints--Dances and Bull-Fights--Celebration of Christmas-Day, New-Year's Day, Palm Sunday, and Good Friday--Contributions levied on the Indians--Tardy and Irregular Transmission of Letters--Trade in Mules--General Style of Building in the Towns and Villages of the Sierra--Ceja de la Montaña 253

CHAPTER XIV.. Road to the Primeval Forests--Barbacoas, or Indian Suspension

Road to the Primeval Forests--Barbacoas, or Indian Suspension Bridges--Vegetation--Hollow Passes--Zoology--the Montaña Plantations--Inhabitants--Trade in Peruvian Bark--Wandering Indians--Wild Indians or Indios Braves--Languages, Manners, and Customs of the Indios Bravos--Dress--Warlike Weapons and Hunting Arms--Dwellings--Religion--Physical formation of the Wild Indian Tribes--Animals of the Aboriginal Forests--Mammalia--Hunting the Ounce--Birds--Amphibia--Poisonous Serpents--Huaco--Insects--Plants 271

CHAPTER XV. Montaña of San Carlos De Vitoc--Villages--Hacienda of

Montaña of San Carlos de Vitoc--Villages--Hacienda of Maraynioc--the Coca Plant--Mode of Cultivating and Gathering it--Mastication of Coca--Evil Consequences of its excessive Use--Its Nutritious Qualities--Indian Superstitions connected with the Coca Plant--Suggestions for its Introduction in the European Navies--Fabulous animal called the Carbunculo--The Chunchos--Missions to Cerro de la Sal--Juan Santos Atahuallpa--The Franciscan Monks--Depopulation of Vitoc 309

CHAPTER XVI.

Oppressions exercised by the Spaniards upon the Peruvian Indians--The Repartimiento and the Mita--Indian Insurrections--Tupac Amaru--His Capture and Execution--War of Independence--Character of the Peruvian Indians--Music--Dress--Superstitions--Longevity--Diminished Population of Peru--Languages spoken by the Aboriginal Inhabitants--Specimen of Quichua Poetry--The Yaravies--The Quipu--Water Conduits--Ancient Buildings--Fortresses--Idols--Domestic Utensils--Ancient Peruvian Graves--Mode of Burying the Dead--Mummies 329

TRAVELS IN PERU.

CHAPTER I.. Embarkation At Havre--the Voyage--Arrival At the Island of

Embarkation at Havre--The Voyage--Arrival at the Island of Chiloe--Landing--The Gyr-Falcon--Punta Arena--The Island of Chiloe described--Climate and Cultivation--Cattle--The Bay--San Carlos--The Governor's House--Poverty and Wretchedness of the Inhabitants of the Town--Strange method of Ploughing--Coasting Vessels--Smuggling--Zoology--Departure from Chiloe.

On the 27th of February, 1838, I sailed from Havre-de-Grace on board the "Edmond." This vessel, though a French merchantman, was freighted with a cargo of Swiss manufactured goods, suited to any commercial transactions which might be entered into in the course of a circumnavigatory voyage. It was a boisterous morning. A fall of snow and heavy clouds soon intercepted our view of the coast of France, and not one cheering sunbeam shone out to betoken for us a favorable voyage. We passed down the British Channel, where the multitude of vessels, and the flags of all nations, presented an enlivening picture, and we finally cleared it on the 5th of March. Favored by a brisk north wind, we soon reached Madeira and came in sight of Teneriffe, the peak being just perceptible on the skirt of the horizon. Easterly breezes soon brought us to the island of Fogo, which, having passed on the 35th day of our voyage, we received the usual marine baptism, and participated in all the ceremonies observed on crossing the equator. We soon reached the tropic of Capricorn, and endeavored to gain the channel between the Falkland Islands and Patagonia; but unfavorable winds obliged us to direct our course eastwards, from the Island of Soledad to the Staten Islands. On the 3d of March we made the longitude of Cape Horn, but were not able to double it until we got into the 60th degree of south latitude. In those dangerous waters, where it is admitted by the boldest English sailors that the waves rage more furiously than in any other part of the world, we encountered great risk and difficulty. For twenty-two days we were driven about on the fearfully agitated sea, southward of Tierra del Fuego, and were only saved from being buried in the deep, by the excellent build and soundness of our ship.

We suffered much, and were long delayed by this storm; but when it subsided, a smart breeze sprang up from the southward, and we held our course along the Pacific to the coast of Chile. After a voyage of 99 days we cast anchor on Sunday the 5th of June, in the Bay of San Carlos. Like the day of our departure from Europe, that of our arrival off Chiloe was gloomy and overcast. Heavy clouds obscured the long-looked-for island, and its picturesque shore could only be seen, when, at intervals, the wind dispersed the dark atmospheric veil. We had no sooner cast anchor than several boats came alongside rowed by Indians, who offered us potatoes, cabbage, fish, and water, in exchange for tobacco. Only those who have been long at sea can form an idea of the gratification which fresh provisions, especially vegetables, afford to the weary voyager. In a couple of hours, the harbor-master came on board to examine the ship, the cargo, &c., and to give us permission to go ashore. The long-boat being got out, and well manned, we stepped into it, and were conveyed to the harbor. The Bay of San Carlos being shallow, large ships, or vessels, heavily laden, are obliged to go three English miles or more from the landing-place before they can anchor. Our boat was gaily decorated and newly painted; but this was mere outside show, for it was in a very unsound condition. During our passage through the tropics, the sun had melted the pitch between the planks of the boat, which lay on the deck keel uppermost. In this crazy boat, we had scarcely got a quarter of a league from the ship, when the water rushed in so forcibly through all the cracks and fissures, that it was soon more than ankle deep. Unluckily the sailors had forgotten to put on board a bucket or anything for baling out the water, so that we were obliged to use our hats and boots for that purpose. Fourteen persons were crowded together in this leaky boat, and the water continued rising, until at length we began to be seriously apprehensive for our safety, when, fortunately, our situation was observed by the people on shore. They promptly prepared to send out a boat to our assistance, but just as it was got afloat, we succeeded in reaching the pier, happy once more to set our feet on terra firma.

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