Travels in Morocco, Volume 2.

CHAPTER II.

The Maroquine dynasties.--Family of the Shereefian Monarchs.--Personal appearances and character of Muley Abd Errahman.--Refutation of the charge of human sacrifices against the Moorish Princes.--Genealogy of the reigning dynasty of Morocco.--The tyraufc Yezeed, (half Irish).--Muley Suleiman, the "The Shereeff of Shereefs."--Diplomatic relations of the Emperor of Morocco with European Powers.--Muley Ismael enamoured with the French Princess de Conti.--Rival diplomacy of France and England near the Maroquine Court.--Mr. Hay's correspondence with this Court on the Slave-trade.--Treaties between Great Britain and Morocco; how defective and requiring amendment.--Unwritten engagements.

CHAPTER III.

The two different aspects by which the strength and resources of the Empire of Morocco may be viewed or estimated.--Native appellation of Morocco.--Geographical limits of this country.--Historical review of the inhabitants of North Africa, and the manner in which this region was successively peopled and conquered.--The distinct varieties of the human race, as found in Morocco.--Nature of the soil and climate of this country.--Derem, or the Atlas chain of mountains.--Natural products.--The Shebbel, or Barbary salmon; different characters of exports of the Northern and Southern provinces.--The Elæonderron Argan.--Various trees and plants.--Mines.--The Sherb-Errech, or Desert-horse.

CHAPTER IV.

Division of Morocco into kingdoms or States, and zones or regions.-- Description of the towns and cities on the Maroquine coasts of the Mediterranean and Atlantic waters.--The Zafarine Isles.--Melilla.-- Alhucemas.--Penon de Velez.--Tegaza.--Provinces of Rif and Garet.-- Tetouan.--Ceuta.--Arzila.--El Araish.--Mehedia.--Salee.--Rabat.-- Fidallah.--Dar-el-Beidah.--Azamour.--Mazagran.--Saffee.--Waladia.

CHAPTER V.. Description of the Imperial Cities or Capitals of the Empire.--

Description of the Imperial Cities or Capitals of the Empire.-- El-Kesar.--Mequinez.--Fez.--Morocco.--The province of Tafilett, the birth-place of the present dynasty of the Shereefs.

CHAPTER VI.

Description of the towns and cities of the Interior, and those of the Kingdom of Fez.--Seisouan.--Wazen.--Zawiat.--Muley Dris.--Sofru.-- Dubdu.--Taza.--Oushdah.--Agla.--Nakbila.--Meshra.--Khaluf.--The Places distinguished in. Morocco, including Sous, Draka, and Tafilett.--Tefza. --Pitideb.--Ghuer.--Tyijet.--Bulawan.--Soubeit--Meramer.--El-Medina.-- Tagodast.--Dimenet.--Aghmat.--Fronga.--Tedmest.--Tekonlet.--Tesegdelt.-- Tagawost.--Tedsi Beneali.--Beni Sabih.--Tatta and Akka.--Mesah or Assah.--Talent.--Shtouka.--General observations on the statistics of population.--The Maroquine Sahara.

CHAPTER VII.

London Jew-boys.--Excursion to the Emperor's garden, and the Argan Forests.--Another interview with the Governor of Mogador on the Anti-Slavery Address.--Opinion of the Moors on the Abolition of Slavery.

CHAPTER VIII.

El-Jereed, the Country of Dates.--Its hard soil.--Salt Lake. Its vast extent.--Beautiful Palm-trees.--The Dates, a staple article of Food.-- Some Account of the Date-Palm.--Made of Culture.--Delicious Beverage.-- Tapping the Palm.--Meal formed from the Dates.--Baskets made of the Branches of the Tree.--Poetry of the Palm.--Its Irrigation.-- Palm-Groves.--Collection of Tribute by the "Bey of the Camp."

CHAPTER IX.

Tour in the Jereed of Captain Balfour and Mr. Reade.--Sidi Mohammed.-- Plain of Manouba.--Tunis.--Tfeefleeah.--The Bastinado.--Turkish Infantry.--Kairwan.--Sidi Amour Abeda.--Saints.--A French Spy-- Administration of Justice.--The Bey's presents.--The Hobara.--Ghafsa. Hot streams containing Fish.--Snakes.--Incantation.--Moorish Village.

CHAPTER X.

Toser.--The Bey's Palace.--Blue Doves.--The town described.--Industry of the People.--Sheikh Tahid imprisoned and punished.--Leghorn.--The Boo-habeeba.--A Domestic Picture.--The Bey's Diversions.--The Bastinado.-- Concealed Treasure.--Nefta.--The Two Saints.--Departure of Santa Maria.-- Snake-charmers.--Wedyen.--Deer Stalking.--Splendid view of the Sahara.-- Revolting Acts.--Qhortabah.--Ghafsa.--Byrlafee.--Mortality among the Camels--Aqueduct.--Remains of Udina.--Arrival at Tunis.--The Boab's Wives.--Curiosities.--Tribute Collected.--Author takes leave of the Governor of Mogador, and embarks for England.--Rough Weather.--Arrival in London.

APPENDIX.

TRAVELS IN MOROCCO.

CHAPTER I.

The Mogador Jewesses.--Disputes between the Jew and the Moor.--Melancholy Scenes.--The Jews of the Atlas.--Their Religion.--Beautiful Women.--The Four Wives.--Statues discovered.--Discrepancy of age of married people.-- Young and frail fair ones.--Superstition respecting Salt.--White Brandy.--Ludicrous Anecdote.

Notwithstanding the imbecile prejudices of the native Barbary Jews, such of them who adopt European habits, or who mix with European merchants, are tolerably good members of society, always endeavouring to restrain their own peculiarities. The European Jewesses settled in Mogador, are indeed the belles of society, and attend all the balls (such as they are). The Jewess sooner forgets religious differences than the Jew, and I was told by a Christian lady, it would be a dangerous matter for a Christian gentleman to make an offer of marriage to a Mogador Jewess, unless in downright earnest; as it would be sure to be accepted.

Monsieur Delaport, Consul of France, was the first official person who brought prominently forward the native and other Jews into the European society of this place, and since then, these Jews have improved in their manners, and increased their respectability. The principal European Jews are from London, Gibraltar, and Marseilles. Many native Jews have attempted to wear European clothes; and a European hat, or coat, is now the rage among native Jewesses, who all aspire to get a husband wearing either. Such are elements of the progress of the Jewess population in this part of the world, and there is no doubt their position has been greatly ameliorated within the last half century, or since the time of Ali Bey, who thus describes their wretched condition in his days.

"Continual disputes arise between the Jew and the Moor; when the Jew is wrong, the Moor takes his own satisfaction, and if the Jew be right, he lodges a complaint with the judge, who always decides in favour of the Mussulman. I have seen the Mahometan children amuse themselves by beating little Jews, who durst not defend themselves. When a Jew passes a mosque, he is obliged to take off his slippers, or shoes; he must do the same when he passes the house of the Kaëd, the Kady, or any Mussulman of distinction. At Fez, and in some other towns, they are obliged to walk barefooted." Ali Bey mentions other vexations and oppressions, and adds, "When I saw the Jews were so ill-treated and vexed in every way, I asked them why they did not go to another country. They answered that they could not do so, because they were slaves of the Sultan." Again he says, "As the Jews have a particular skill in thieving, they indemnify themselves for the ill-treatment they receive from the Moors, by cheating them daily."

Jewesses are exempt from taking off their slippers, or sandals, when passing the mosques. The late Emperor, Muley Suleiman, professed to be a rigidly exact Mussulman, and considered it very indecent, and a great scandal that Jewesses, some of them, like most women of this country, of enormous dimensions, should be allowed to disturb the decent frame of mind of pious Mussulmen, whilst entering the threshold of the house of prayer, by the sad exhibitions of these good ladies stooping down and shewing their tremendous calves, when in the act of taking off their shoes before passing the mosques. For such reasons, Jewesses are now privileged and exempted from the painful necessity of walking barefoot in the streets.

The policy of the Court in relation to the Jews continually fluctuates. Sometimes, the Emperor thinks they ought to be treated like the rest of his subjects; at other times, he seems anxious to renew in all its vigour the system described by Ali Bey. Hearing that the Jews of Tangier, on returning from Gibraltar, would often adopt the European dress, and so, by disguising themselves, be treated like Christians and Europeans, he ordered all these would-be Europeans forthwith to be undressed, and to resume their black turban.

Alas, how were all these Passover, Tabernacle and wedding festivals, these happy and joyous days of the Jewish society of Mogador, changed on the bombardment of that city! What became of the rich and powerful merchants, the imperial vassals of commerce with their gorgeous wives bending under the weight of diamonds, pearls, and precious gems, during that sad and unexpected period? The newspapers of the day recorded the melancholy story. Many of the Jews were massacred, or buried underneath the ruins of the city; their wives subjected to plunder; the rest were left wandering naked and starving on the desolate sandy coast of the Atlantic, or hidden in the mountains, obtaining a momentary respite from the rapacious fury of the savage Berbers and Arabs.

It is well known that, while the French bombarded Tangier and Mogador from without, the Berber and Arab tribes, aided by the canaille of the Moors, plundered the city from within. Several of the Moorish rabble declared publicly, and with the greatest cowardice and villainous effrontery, "When the French come to destroy Mogador, we shall go and pillage the Jews' houses, strip the women of their ornaments, and then escape to the mountains from the pursuit of the Christians." These threats they faithfully executed; but, by a just vengeance, they were pillaged in turn, for the Berbers not only plundered the Jews themselves, but the Moors who had escaped from the city laden with their booty.

It is to be hoped that a better day is dawning for North African Jews. The Governments of France and England can do much for them in Morocco.

The Jews of the Atlas formed the subject of some of Mr. Davidson's literary labours; I have made further inquiries and shall give the reader some account of them, adding that portion of Mr. Davidson's information which was borne out by further investigation. The Atlas Jews are physically, if not morally, superior to their brethren who reside among the Moors. They are dispersed over the Atlas ranges, and have all the characteristics of mountaineers. They enjoy, like their neighbours, the Berbers and Shelouhs, a species of quasi-independence of the Imperial authority, but they usually attach themselves to certain Berber chieftains who protect them, and whose standards they follow.

These are the only Jews in Mahometan countries of whom I have heard as bearing arms. They have, however, their own Sheiks, to whose jurisdiction all domestic matters are referred. They wear the same attire as the mountaineers, and are not distinguishable from them, they do not address the Moors by the term of respect and title "Sidi," but in the same way as the Moors and Arabs when they accost each other. They speak the Shelouh language.

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