Through Central Borneo

CHAPTER XXXV

A VISIT TO KUALA KAPUAS--A BREED OF STUMP-TAILED DOGS--THE SHORT-TAILED CATS OF BORNEO--A SECOND EXPEDITION TO LAKE SEMBULO--NATIVES UNDISMAYED BY BERI-BERI--THE TAMOANS--THE PRACTICE OF INCISION

FOLKLORE OF SOME OF THE TRIBES IN DUTCH BORNEO VISITED BY THE AUTHOR

CONCLUSION

SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES TO THE TRIBES IN DUTCH BORNEO VISITED BY THE AUTHOR

A SHORT GLOSSARY

INDEX

ILLUSTRATIONS

Carl Lumholtz in the Bulungan, Dutch Borneo, May, 1914

In the jungle of Southern Borneo, near the Sampit River

The Giant Taro (Alocasia Macrorhiza)

The Orang-Utan. A more than half-grown specimen

The Long-Nosed Monkey (Nasalis Larvatus), peculiar to Borneo

The Sultan of Bulungan

Chonggat, the author's Dayak collector of animals and birds

Approaching Kaburau, on the Kayan River

Banglan, a Kayan, and his family. Kaburau

Ladders, below Long Pangian, on the Kayan River

Young Kayan, from Kaburau

Kayan, from Kaburau. Shows a Chinese manner of hair-dressing

Kayan from Kaburau. Showing the distended ear lobes

Kayan child, Kaburau

Kayan mother and infant. Near Long Pangian

Punans, the shy nomads of the jungle

Punans near my camp

Punan using the sumpitan or blowpipe

Kayan climbing a tree

Kayan at the author's camp, blowing a native wind instrument

The King Cobra (Naia Bungarus)

Young Orang-Utans

Kayan, from Kaburau. Front, side, and back views

Kayan, in mourning dress, Kaburau

Kenyah, from Long Pelaban. Front, side, and back views

Tuba fishing on the Isau River

Tuba fishing. Taking the augury by fire-making. Isau River

Tuba fishing. Effects of the poison. Pipa River

Kenyahs starting in the morning for distant Apo Kayan. Long Pangian, Kayan River

A funeral house. Near Long Pelaban, Kayan River

Long Pelaban, a Kenyah kampong, on the Kayan River

The gallery of a communal house, Long Pelaban, Kayan River

Kenyah father and child. Long Pelaban, Kayan River

Kenyah woman, with large basket used for carrying rice. Long Pelaban, Kayan River

A Kenyah's sweetheart removing his eyebrows and eyelashes. Long Pelaban, Kayan River

Wrestling. Long Pelaban, Kayan River

Kenyah girl, in a woman's usual attire. Long Pelaban, Kayan River

Kenyah mother and child, on their daily trips to the Long Pelaban, Kayan River

Tuba fishing, at the Pipa River

Kenyah ready for a trip to the ladang (fields). Long Pelaban, Kayan River

Kenyah in full war attire. Long Pelaban, Kayan River

Sacrificing the pig at the festival. Tumbang Marowei

Murung women squatting in order to observe the author. Tumbang Marowei

Murung man and wife. Tumbang Marowei

The beating of gongs furnishes the music at festivals. Tumbang Marowei

The Feast of the Rubber Gatherers. Tumbang Marowei

Blians, or priest-doctors, at Tumbang Marowei

Murung women smoking cigarettes and preparing them from native tobacco and leaves of trees. Tumbang Marowei

The Scaly Ant-Eater (Manis). Tumbang Marowei

Telok Djulo, an Ot-Danum kampong, on the Barito River

Ot-Danum, wearing gold breastplates. Telok Djulo

Passing the Kiham Mudang, on the Upper Barito River

Rough travel by boat on the Upper Barito River

Passing the boats up the rapids of the Upper Barito River

Part of my provisions, at Bahandang, Busang River

Djobing, our efficient Malay

Part of the expedition ascending the Busang River

Tamaloë, a lately formed Penyahbong kampong

Pisha, the good Penyahbong chief. Tamaloë

Penyahbong rhino hunters. Tamaloë

Penyahbong women. Tamaloë

Back view of the Penyahbong women, showing their head-dress

Penyahbong, front, side, and back view. Tamaloë

The Penyahbong war dance. Tamaloë

Saputan, on his way to the ladang (fields) and for the hunt of Babi. Data Láong

Saputans, front and side views. Data Láong

Saputan, the kapala of Data Láong

Saputans showing their war prowess

Saputans poling. Data Láong

Piercing the ears of the Saputan chief in order to insert a tiger cat's corner teeth. Data Láong

Mahakam River, westward view, from the author's tent, at Long Kai

Penihings, the kapala of Long Kai and his children

Bukat, at Long Kai, front, side, and back views

Bukatwomen, at Long Kai, front and side views

The Mélah ceremony for imparting health and strength. Long Pahangei

Oma-Sulings. Long Pahangei

The Dángei hut, a temporary place of worship

The Rajá Besar, or great chief, and his wife. Long Pahangei

Large wooden drum. Long Pahangei

Lidju, a Long-Glat noble, and his wife, the sister of the Rajá Besar. Long Pahangei

Cooking rice in bamboo receptacles. Long Pahangei

Lung Karang, a limestone hill, near Long Tjehan, on the Mahakam River

Penihing burial cave, near the Tjehan River

Penihing women carrying water. Long Kai

Penihings, from Long Kai

Two young Penihings, caught unawares by my camera. Sungei Lobang

The durian tree, with fruit. Lulo Pakko, on the Merasi River

One of our Javanese soldiers, in undress, carrying two durians. Lulo Pakko, Merasi River

A ripe durian opened

Three Long-Glat women of the nobility. Long Tujo

Back view of the Long-Glat women

Long-Glat women. Long Tujo. Front view

Long-Glat women. Side and back views

Long-Glats, with a native dog. Long Tujo

A narrow-snouted crocodile shot by our sergeant below the great rapids of the Mahakam

Entrance to the cave of Kong Beng

Malays searching for diamonds at Martapura

Malay house, near Martapura

Malay house at Mandin

Bukit women. Mandin

Bukit at Lok Besar, front and back views

Bukit woman and her two sons. Lok Besar

Bukit women with their children. Lok Besar

The "Order" of Beraui, and his wife, both Duhoi. Beraui, on the Samba River

A Duhoi and his family. Beraui, Samba River

A bearded Dayak, front and side views

Upper Katingans passing the rapids of Buntut Mangkikit

Upper Katingan women dancing. Buntut Mangkikit

Upper Katingan family, at Buntut Mangkikit

An upper Katingan, of Buntut Mangkikit. Front, side, and back views

Upper Katingan women at Buntut Mangkikit, front and side views

Samples of Dayak tatuing

Women beating small drums and singing. Buntut Mangkikit

Protecting against evil spirits. Kasungan

Staffs, called pantars, erected in memoriam of the dead, at a kampong below Kuala Samba

A wealthy Katingan, at Kasungan

A loving pair guarding the dead. Kasungan

Sacrifice of eggs to the good spirits. Long Pahangei, Mahakam River

Panyanggaran, at Bali, Katingan River

Panyanggaran, at Kasungan, Katingan River

Tamoans, from Bangkal, Lake Sembulo, front and side views

Katingan taking an astronomical observation. Kasungan

Kenyah women husking rice. Long Pelaban, Kayan River

A tailless dog, sister of the mother of the stump-tailed ones. Bandjermasin

The short-tailed domestic cat of Borneo

A breed of stump-tailed dogs. Bandjermasin

CHAPTER I

DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK--A RACE WITH THE IMPERIAL LIMITED--IMPRESSIONS OF JAPAN--SINGAPORE--ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA, JAVA--BUITENZORG--BORO BUDUR, THE WONDROUS BUDDHIST MONUMENT

Having concluded important business matters during a brief stay in New York, I decided to go to Canada to take the express train for Vancouver. It was the last train which made connection with the Canadian Pacific steamer for Hong-Kong, and if I could make it I should save three weeks. With the assurance that I should have a couple of hours latitude, I started in the morning for Montreal. There was no doubt that I should make it unless something unusual delayed the north-bound train, and that is exactly what occurred. The steam power of the brake got out of order, necessitating a stop for repairs, and considerable time was lost. Darkness came on and I began to feel anxious about the prospect of gaining my object.

The conductor and his assistant, in the knowledge that I had a through ticket to Hong-Kong, did everything in their power to aid me. Wire messages were sent to have the Imperial Limited Express wait for "a man travelling first-class"; to the custom-house, and also for a cab and four "red caps" to meet me on arrival. The assistant conductor told everybody of the plight of the passenger with the long journey before him, the engineer was prevailed upon to increase his speed; and the passengers began to exhibit interest. A tall Canadian came to me and expressed his belief that I would catch that train, and even if it should be gone there was another a little later by which it might be overtaken. "I shall assist you," he added.

As we approached Montreal there were still twelve minutes left. The lights of the city were visible near by, and one of my fellow passengers was in the act of assuring me that my chances were good, when our train suddenly stopped--on account of the bridge being open to permit a ship to pass. Ten minutes lost! I had decided, if necessary, to sacrifice two boxes of honey which I had bought at the last moment, honey and water being my usual drink when on expeditions. The total weight was ninety kilograms, but they were neatly packed in paper and had been allowed to stand at one side of the entrance to the Pullman car. They were an important adjunct of my outfit, but perhaps after all it would be necessary for us to part.

Immediately upon the opening of the doors the four porters presented themselves with the encouraging information that they understood the Imperial Limited was waiting. My luggage, including the honey, was hurried on to a large truck, my Canadian friend throwing his on too, and speeding the boys to a trot, we ran as fast as we could to the baggage-room of the custom-house, where the official in charge caused us only a short delay. As the packages were being loaded into three cabs a man stepped forward and accosted me: "We have got you now! I am a reporter for The Star, and would like to know who the man is that keeps the Imperial Limited waiting!" The moment did not seem favourable for an interview, but I invited him to enter my cab and the two or three minutes required to drive to the station afforded opportunity for an explanation:

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